The Fashion Designer's Textile Directory: A Guide to Fabrics' Properties, Characteristics, and Garment-Design Potential

323 Pages·2011·168.18 MB·English

by  Gail Baugh

Gail Baugh teaches textiles and merchandising This is the fabric and textile directory that dressmakers
at both San Francisco State University and the THE FASHION DESIGNER’S
and fashion designers have been waiting for. It’s like THE FASHION DESIGNER’S
Fashion Institute of Design and Merchandising. TEXTILE DIRECTORY
She has extensive fashion industry experience, having your own personal textiles expert on hand to
particularly in global product development and recommend fabrics that match the effects you want to
sourcing for large retail chains. achieve. You’ll discover how different fabrics perform, TEXTILE DIRECTORY Designers are trained to develop a vision
and you’ll learn the many ways to use them. in terms of surface, silhouette, and “good”
design; they are not trained to translate that
A guide to fabrics’ properties, characteristics, vision into understandable terms for the
The directory is organized by function. Do you want textile industry. This book is designed
a fabric for its structure, fl uidity, added volume, and garment-design potential to transcend this gap in communication.
defi nition, or decoration? Do you want a garment
The Fashion Designer’s Textile Directory
that clings to the fi gure, or one that allows you to guides you through fi ve fabric categories,
construct a whole new silhouette? What is the overall color-coded for easy navigation:
effect you are aiming to achieve—pretty, or lustrous • Structure
and magnifi cent? • Fluidity
• Ornamentation
• Expansion
Each fabric described in the directory comes with color
• Compression
photos of samples that illustrate its properties, helping
Illustrated and explained throughout with
you understand how a particular fabric’s qualities make
photographs of fabric samples, garments, and
it suitable for specifi c items of apparel.
GAIL BAUGH diagrams. Each fabric entry included in the
directory has all the information you will need
At the back of the book you will fi nd essential guides to to make the right decision about the fabric for
fi ber properties, weaves, knits, weights, characteristics, your design. Graphic icons representing fabric
structure, weight, and any special fi nishes
and care advice.
provide a wealth of information without the
need for lots of reading, and facts and fi gures
are summarized in bulleted lists.
The key information about the fabrics featured
is also included in the charts at the back of
the book, usefully condensed and organized
into tables for quick reference when you’re
in the design studio or with a supplier.
The Fashion Designer’s Textile Directory
is a key reference for the fashion designer
or fashion design student, simultaneously
ISBN: 978-0-7641-4628-2
instructing in fabric while developing skills
for the design room.

$35.00 Canada $41.99
www.barronseduc.com
TXD Barons flexi jkt finalREV_.indd 2 3rd Proof Title: TXD_TheFashionDesigerʼs_BarronsEdn : 29180 1/7/11 3:35:28 PM
Job No: CPJ0111-5 / connie
THE FASHION DESIGNER’S
BAUGH
TEXTILE DIRECTORY
EAN
Gail Baugh teaches textiles and merchandising This is the fabric and textile directory that dressmakers
at both San Francisco State University and the ASHION DESIGNER’S
and fashion designers have been waiting for. It’s like
Fashion Institute of Design and Merchandising. XTILE DIRECTORY
She has extensive fashion industry experience, having your own personal textiles expert on hand to
particularly in global product development and recommend fabrics that match the effects you want to
sourcing for large retail chains. achieve. You’ll discover how different fabrics perform, Designers are trained to develop a vision
and you’ll learn the many ways to use them. in terms of surface, silhouette, and “good”
design; they are not trained to translate that
vision into understandable terms for the
The directory is organized by function. Do you want textile industry. This book is designed
a fabric for its structure, fl uidity, added volume, to transcend this gap in communication.
defi nition, or decoration? Do you want a garment
The Fashion Designer’s Textile Directory
that clings to the fi gure, or one that allows you to guides you through fi ve fabric categories,
construct a whole new silhouette? What is the overall color-coded for easy navigation:
effect you are aiming to achieve—pretty, or lustrous • Structure
and magnifi cent? • Fluidity
• Ornamentation
• Expansion
Each fabric described in the directory comes with color
• Compression
photos of samples that illustrate its properties, helping
Illustrated and explained throughout with
you understand how a particular fabric’s qualities make
photographs of fabric samples, garments, and
it suitable for specifi c items of apparel. diagrams. Each fabric entry included in the
directory has all the information you will need
At the back of the book you will fi nd essential guides to to make the right decision about the fabric for
fi ber properties, weaves, knits, weights, characteristics, your design. Graphic icons representing fabric
structure, weight, and any special fi nishes
and care advice.
provide a wealth of information without the
need for lots of reading, and facts and fi gures
are summarized in bulleted lists.
The key information about the fabrics featured
is also included in the charts at the back of
the book, usefully condensed and organized
into tables for quick reference when you’re
in the design studio or with a supplier.
The Fashion Designer’s Textile Directory
is a key reference for the fashion designer
or fashion design student, simultaneously
ISBN: 978-0-7641-4628-2
instructing in fabric while developing skills
for the design room.

$35.00 Canada $41.99
www.barronseduc.com
TXD Barons flexi jkt finalREV_.indd 2 3rd Proof Title: TXD_TheFashionDesigerʼs_BarronsEdn : 29180
TXD Barons flexi jkt finalREV_.indd 2 Job No: CPJ0111-5 / connie 1/7/11 3:35:28 PM
1/7/11 3:35:28 PM
BAUGH
TEXTILE DIRECTORY
EAN
The Fashion
Designer’s
Textile
Directory
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The Fashion
Designer’s
Textile
Directory
Gail Baugh
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A QUARTO BOOK
First edition for North America published in 2011
by Barron’s Educational Series, Inc.
Copyright © 2011 Quarto Inc.
All rights reserved. No part of this book may be
reproduced or distributed in any form or by any
means without the written permission of the
copyright owner.
All inquiries should be addressed to:
Barron’s Educational Series, Inc.
250 Wireless Boulevard
Hauppauge, New York 11788
www.barronseduc.com
Library of Congress Control No.:
2010940124
ISBN-13: 978-0-7641-4628-2
QUAR.TXD
Conceived, designed, and produced by
Quarto Publishing plc
The Old Brewery
6 Blundell Street
London N7 9BH
Senior editor: Lindsay Kaubi
Art editor: Susi Martin
Designers: Susi Martin, Joanna Bettles
Picture researchers: Sarah Bell, Susi Martin
Copy editor: Diana Chambers
Photographer: Philip Wilkins
Illustrator: Chris Taylor
Art director: Caroline Guest
Creative director: Moira Clinch
Publisher: Paul Carslake
Color separation by Pica Digital Pte Ltd, Singapore

Printed by 1010 Printing International Ltd in China
9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
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Contents
Author’s foreword 9
About this book 10
SECTION ONE:
Responsible design 14 Chino 91
The future of fabric production 16 Serge 92
Cavalry twill 93
SECTION TWO: Ripstop 94
The language of textiles 20 Otoman 95
The supply chain 22 Dobby weaves for suiting 96
Fabric orientation 24 Tweds 98
Fiber 26 Jacquard weaves 100
Yarn 33 Velveten 102
Fabrics 35 Corduroy 104
Adding color 40 Brushed fabrics 106
Finishing 43 Fabrics from fiber 108
Garment care 47 Melton 110
Double knits 112
SECTION THREE: Coated fabrics 114
The textile directory 48 Microporous laminated fabrics 116
Introduction to the directory 50 Film fabric 118
Leather 120
Chapter one: Structure 52 Suede leather 122
Lawn 56 Faux leather and suede 124
Calico 57 Bonded and fused fabrics 126
High-density fabrics 58 Supporting structure 128
Broadcloth 60 Interlinings for structure 130
Poplin 61
Checks and plaids 62 Chapter two: Fluidity 132
Oxford 64 Chifon 136
Surface shine: ciré and chintz 66 Georgete 137
Puckered surface: sersucker and plisé 67 Voile 138
Dobby weaves 68 Gauze 139
Tafeta 70 Lining 140
Faile and bengaline 72 Satin 142
Shantung 73 Crêpe de Chine 144
Sateen 74 Crinkled fabric 146
Bridal satin 75 Chalis 148
Flannel 76 Surah 149
Flannelete 77 Jersey 150
Linen 78 Interlock 152
Sheeting 80 Matte jersey 153
Muslin 81 Fine-gauge sweater knits 154
Canvas 82 Pointelle knits 156
Homespun 84 Mesh 158
Hopsacking 85 Tricot 160
Denim 86 Traditional lace 162
Gabardine 90 Mass-market lace 164
Continued
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▲
Lamé 166
Chenile 245
Textured knits 168
Terry cloth 246
Designed knit surfaces 170
The concept of quilting 248
Satin crêpe 172
Minimum-loft quilting 249
Textured crêpe suiting 174
Medium-loft quilting 250
Smooth-surface crêpe 176
High-loft quilting 252
Tricot for athletics 178
Fur in apparel 254
French terry 180
Repurposed fur 255
Polar fleece 182
Commonly used faux fur 256
Velour 184
Exotic faux fur 258
Velvet 186
Medium-weight sweater knits 188
Chapter five: Compression 260
Heavyweight sweater knits 190
Compression with rigid fabrics 264
Ribbed knits 266
Chapter three: Ornamentation 192
Elastic ribbed knit banding 268
Contrast fabric shapes 196
Comfort stretch: top weights 270
Contrasting fabric: creating lines and
Comfort stretch: casual woven fabrics 272
outlines with fabric 198
Comfort stretch: stretch denim 274
Functional tapes 200
Comfort stretch: stretch suiting 276
Decorative ribbon: satin and velvet 202
Comfort stretch: double knits 278
Decorative ribbon: grosgrain and taffeta 203
Power stretch: athletic knits 280
Decorative ribbon: jacquard 204
Power stretch: underwear knits 282
Decorative ribbon: dobby design 205
Power stretch: elastic power mesh 284
Passementerie trim 206
Power stretch: narrow elastic bands 286
Fringe 208
Narrow novelty trims 210
SECTION FOUR:
Narrow closure trims 212
The charts 288
Lace edging and appliqués 214
Introduction to the charts 290
Embroidery 216
Balanced plain weave 292
Embroidery threads 217
Unbalanced plain weave 294
All-over embroidered fabrics 218
Textured weave/Jacquard weave 296
Garment-specific embroidery 220
Pile weave/Basketweave 298
Embroidered denim 222
Twill weave 300
Satin weave 302
Chapter four: Expansion 224
Weft knit 304
Neting 228
Weft pile knit/Warp knitting 306
Organza 230
Warp pile knit/Jacquard warp knit 308
Organdy 231
Fiber to fabric/Lace 310
Crinoline 232
Buckram 233
Glossary 312
The concept of pleating 234
Resources 315
Pleated silk fiber fabrics 236
Index 316
Pleated cotton fiber fabrics 237 Credits and
Polyester plain-weave pleated fabrics 238 acknowledgments 320
Crêpe and satin crêpe pleated fabrics 239
Stitched pleating 240
Shiring 242
Bouclé 244
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