The Fashion Designer Survival Guide, Revised and Expanded Edition: Start and Run Your Own Fashion Business

315 Pages·2008·2.73 MB·English

by  Mary, Gehlhar

The Fashion

Designer
Survival

Guide

Revised and Expanded Edition

Start and Run Your

Own fashion Business

Mary Gehlhar

Contents

Foreword
Preface
One Piece of Advice

1 • Before You Start

The Reality
You Survived the Bad News

2 • The Fundamentals

The Plan
Elements of the Plan
Setting up the Business, by Melanie Jones

3 • The Money

How Much Do You Need?
Where to Find Money
Factoring, by Tim Moore

4 • Product Development

Know Your Customer
Have a Point of View
The Trends
The Collection
Signature Items
The Quality Standard
It Must Look the Price
Commerciality and Show

5 • Fabric and Materials

Learn First
The Challenges
The Sources
Once You Order

6 • Production

The Production Plan
Sample Production
Tips and Considerations When Hiring a Patternmaker, by Sally Beers
Production Options
Production Management
Factory Management

7 • Marketing and Branding Materials

Be Your Brand
Logos
Press and Sales Kits
Other Marketing Materials

8 • Sales

The Financial Realities of Selling
Where to Sell
Selling to the Stores
Cold Calling, by Rachel Shechtman
The Appointment
The Order
Getting Paid
Customer Service and Supporting Sales
Who Should Sell the Line?
Trade Shows
Making the Most of the Shows, by Barbara Kramer

9 • Press and Public Relations

Good News/Bad News
The PR Strategy
Dressing Celebrities, by Roger Padilha
Who Should Handle PR?

10 • The Runway

To Show or Not to Show
Producing a Runway Show

Sponsorship

11 • Copyrights and Knockoffs

Fashion Design and the Copyright Laws by Jason Gabbard

12 • Expanding the Business

Licensing
A Second Line
Partnerships/Consulting
Creative Direction
Investors and Partners
Acknowledgments
Notes
Resources
Index

Foreword

When I began my business in 1972, I wish a book like The Fashion

Designer’s Survival Guide had existed that I could have turned to for advice on
how to launch a fashion business. Fortunately, Mary Gehlhar has provided such
an invaluable tool for today’s generation of designers. Reading this guide
brought me back to my first days as a designer and my own journey.

New designers often ask me what the key to success is when starting a

business in fashion. My response is simple: you must first understand who or
what you want to be. What is your vision? For whom are you designing clothes?
It may take several months to figure this out, but once you do, the rest should
come naturally.

Secondly, work with an experienced designer. Many of today’s most

successful designers worked as apprentices or assistants to established designers,
which serves as a great opportunity for gaining exposure to the business of
fashion and establishing industry contacts with suppliers, factories, editors, and
retailers. I, myself, worked in a printing factory in Italy before I decided to
design and launch my dresses.

Finally, never hesitate to seek help. Organizations such as the Council of

Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) off er support and assistance,
scholarships to design students, mentoring of emerging talent through the
CFDA/ Vogue Fashion Fund and other programs, and ongoing panels with
industry experts on the business of fashion. The CFDA is committed to working
hard on behalf of the fashion industry to help designers succeed. As president of
the Council of Fashion Designers of America, I represent all designers, new and
experienced, and believe in sharing all I have learned with emerging talent.

I leave you with this: a good designer must recognize that there will be ups

and downs in one’s career and must be prepared for constructive criticism by
press, buyers, peers, and so on. Always remain confident yet grounded, embrace
advice and criticism, learn from your mistakes, and do not hesitate to ask for
help.

I did not know the mechanics of how to start a company, but I managed to do

so because I was not afraid to ask. You should always ask and seek answers for

what you do not know. Many of these answers lie within the pages of The
Fashion Designer’s Survival Guide, a great resource for new and established
designers.

Fear is not an option…Go for it!
Sincerely,
Diane von Furstenberg

Preface

This book was originally published in 2005 and now, three years later, the

proposition of being an independent fashion designer is as exhilarating as ever.
Few industries move as fast as fashion, and opportunity abounds as the
competition increases and the playing field changes daily.

Driven by celebrity obsession, fashion television, and the Internet, fashion is

in hot demand. New designers are benefiting from an increased interest by
retailers, editors, stylists, and even investors wanting to discover fashion’s
greatest new hidden talent and off er shoppers a diverse selection. Consumers
are more interested in what’s new than in big brands.

Economic forces are also at play. The deflation of the dollar against the euro

is leading American buyers to cut their European purchases and seek new, U.S.-
based sources, and Europe is becoming a viable market. Accessories are
booming as consumers willingly invest in high-end bags and shoes that don’t
fluctuate with their weight. New markets are available to designers as mass
marketing and low-end design gigs at large chains, such as Gap and Target, have
gained acceptability.

At the same time, the market is more saturated, more sophisticated, and more

challenging. Fashion’s increasing role as part of pop culture has put more
pressure on designers to be a personality or star and to differentiate their
products to compete against the inexpensive, trend-driven fast fashion from
chains such as H&M. More celebrities are launching their own labels, scooping
up shelf space and licensing opportunities. Stores are less loyal to their designers
as they look over their shoulder to welcome the next new name with buzz. The
jaded say that starting your own label is really just a short-term strategy to
getting a high-profile design job at an established label.

At the end of day, there is still a great need and desire for true innovation and

creativity mixed with strong business acumen.

Few resources are available to help prepare designers for having their own

labels. Fashion school will teach you about patterns, draping, and trend
forecasts. It can prepare you for a successful career as head designer and even
off er classes on bookkeeping and business plans. But running your own

business is another matter.

This book is designed to help new designers successfully set up and run a

business, benefiting from the pitfalls, mistakes, and triumphs of other designers
who are doing it themselves. This second edition includes new sections on
financing and private equity, sales and cold calling, and partnerships and
consulting opportunities; an update on the extensive efforts to protect fashion
designs legally; photo examples for branding and product development; as well
as extended sections of quotes from entrepreneurial designers who are in the
trenches facing these challenges every day. Through the course of writing the
book, I’ve spoken with more than 100 designers and industry professionals about
their specific areas of expertise. I have gained valuable insight from the
innovative thinkers and great business minds who have generously shared their
experiences. Among the buying offices, editorial departments, fabric mills,
factories, and financial institutions, there is a passionate crowd rooting for the
next generation of designers.

These pages will demystify the world of young designers and reveal the tough

parts while providing the knowledge and tools to carry on. It is a collective
summary of what it takes to survive. The advice is not sugar coated, and it’s not
always what you want to hear. But knowledge is power and should not
discourage you.

The book is intended to help designers in their first few years and lend

guidance to those who have been operating for much longer. It was written to
increase the odds of success. Here’s to the next generation.

One Piece of Advice

If you could give today’s young designers one piece of advice what would it be?

John Bartlett

“If you want to start your own line I would do one of two things . . . I would
commit myself to working for another designer company for at least four
years to really learn from their mistakes . . . or I would concentrate on one
product category, like t-shirts or shoes, and focus all of my energy
developing the best possible product. Too many designers get caught up in
doing a whole collection and doing shows. Shows are for ego, product is for
survival.”

Tommy Hilfiger

“Being a successful fashion designer is about more than just making great
clothes. It’s about running a business, and that means having a combination
of diverse skills—you need creativity, business acumen, social skills,
management skills, and most importantly, you need dedication. I started out
in this business with $150 and a dream. there were many years, challenges,
and lessons learned before getting to where I am today. The best piece of
advice I’d give to a young designer is to first dream big and believe in
yourself, and then approach fashion from a holistic point of view. You have
to start with a great product, but you also need the right vehicle to get that
great product into your customer’s hands. Th at means planning,
researching, merchandising, building great relationships, having a great
marketing plan, and being able to execute all of those things in a carefully
thought out way.”

Donna Karan

“There are three things you absolutely must keep in mind: Realize that in
the end, it’s all about the customer—your customer. You need to decide
who she is and then really get to know what she’s about. That single-
minded focus is the way you create a strong, consistent message. Make sure
the people behind you are better than you and that you’re all on the same
page. Lastly, never believe the good press because that means you have to
believe the bad. Be true to yourself.”

Richard Lambertson of Lambertson Truex

“Stay true to your design ethics and try to be different, but don’t follow the
trends. You can’t be everything to everybody. I also can’t stress enough that
the more practical experience you have the better. Everyone wants to work
for the big names but you can get even more experience working for a small
house.”

Christian Louboutin

“As a supposedly established designer, I regret to say that I have very few
words of advice to give to the emerging talent. The reality is that I continue
to learn every day about my work. But, if I may give one word of advice, it
would be this: leave, and always leave, your imagination above everything
else; technique should always serve imagination, and not the opposite. To
be a good technician is only a help, but should never be a priority. Why?
Because technique can shrink your creation, and creation is everything, and
the rest should gravitate around this. The more you are free, the more your
design will reflect this sense of liberty, which is after all, one of the
essences of fashion. Fashion tends to represent different points of view and
meaning, and at its best should reflect individuality, eccentricity, and wit.”

Cynthia Rowley

“Coming from a free-thinking art school that encouraged creativity, I very
quickly learned about the constant battle between art and commerce and

had to find the balance to survive. There are many ways to find your own
balance and to learn both sides of the business. Once you learn the rules, I
think it is very important to take chances and push the envelope as a
designer—sometimes ideas work; sometimes they don’t, but the most
important thing is that you roll the dice. The fashion industry is forever
evolving and so much of being successful is changing and adapting while
remaining true to your vision and maintaining your integrity.”

Richard Tyler

“I started when I was 18 by opening my own store. There’s nothing like it
for finding your own niche and it ensures your survival. You show your
clothing to the world the way you envision it. It’s healthy to see what
people admire and what they can truly wear. When you get to know your
client, they keep you balanced between designing what drives and interests
you and designing for the person who is wearing your clothes.”

Diane Von Furstenberg

“The important thing is to believe in what you do. Have a big dream and take

small steps.”

“One piece of advice from the up and coming labels.”

“Be passionate and have a vision that you stick to. Always be humble—In

fashion, success can be short-lived.”—Jane Ko, Nervenkitt, jewelry

“Start with a very focused niche, just one product such as a very special

jacket or shirt, and off er just 10 styles. Use just one fabric, one factory, do it
from home, and with as little cost as possible to maintain a 30 percent margin.
then grow slowly, very slowly.”
—Robert Geller, menswear

“Be true to yourself—you will get a thousands comments on what you should

do—if you take them all into account you will be too scattered.”—Kristen Lee,
shoes

“Be ready to work—A LOT! Build a good team around yourself.”—Tina

Hernaiz and Nike Clausing, Ingwa; Melero, womenswear

“Do it however you can. there are many different ways to start and they all

can work. It’s important that you do it in a way that suits you, or you may never
do it at all.”—Lily Raskind, Sunshine and Shadow, womenswear

“Focus on what you really love to do—not what you see in the street or in the

industry”—Gustavo Cadile, eveningwear

“Know exactly what you are doing and who you are doing it for.”—Ana

Beatriz, Lerario Beatriz, womenswear

“Learn how to run a business, whether you partner up with someone who has

the know-how, or you learn yourself. Make sure you have a very solid
foundation beneath you; a high-quality product, a unique sales pitch, and most
importantly, funds to cover production, the upcoming season, and the myriad of
mishaps which may happen along the way.”—Alison Kelly, womenswear

“Learn your market. Analyze your product. Be clear in your brand, perform

to your best, and reach for the sky.”—Diego Binetti, womenswear

“Learn patternmaking. You can save a lot of money”— Annie Lewis and

Helen Cho, Lewis Cho, womenswear

“Never lose site of you! No matter what successes or downfalls come your

way stay true to yourself.”—Jessica Alpert-Goldman, World According to Jess,
accessories

“Planning is the most important thing for anyone starting a clothing line.

Specifically, I would focus on design and vision, sales and financial planning.
Problems in any one of these areas will inevitably lead to problems in the other
areas as well. Although you can’t avoid all problems, you will save yourself a lot
of
headaches
down
the
road
by
doing
your
homework
in
the

beginning.”—Romain Kapadia, menswear

“Work in the industry, network, gain experience and knowledge. When you

decide to establish your company partner up with someone who has a strong
background in business.”—Brian Wood, menswear

“Use amazing fabrics. there are a lot of fantastic, gorgeous fabrics out there

and it’s important that your clothing feels great on and off.”—Chloe, Samantha
and Caillianne Beckerman, womenswear

“Be humble. the fashion world is very small and you should treat everybody

nicely and equally with respect.”—Grace Sun, womenswear

“Surround yourself with smart, dedicated people, they make all of the

difference. Oh, and if you have a partner, make sure and have a partnership
agreement!”—Jada Simons, Marie Marie, womenswear

“It doesn’t happen overnight. You have to love it enough to keep going when

it’s not glamour and designer-y all the time. You have to have tenacity and
patience of a doorknob. Like fishing, you have to work hard and throw as many
hooks out as possible and some of them will work out. It’s a process and the one
that sticks around will see results sooner or later. Hopefully sooner.”—Jane
Ivanov, Eve Alexander, maternity lingerie

“Make a business plan. Try and create as much of an infrastructure before

you begin to build your company.”—Cheyenne Morris, Tashkent, shoes

“Surround yourself in business with people you trust”—Corinne Grassini,

Society for Rational Dress, womenswear

“This isn’t really fair for me to say since I didn’t do it this way, but work for

someone else first, make your mistakes on someone else’s dollar and learn as
much as you possibly can about the industry. Build your name and your resume.
When you’ve worked for nota—ble designers before you launch, you have a
huge amount of credibility behind you. Let’s say you do it like me. then make
sure you know what you’re doing, do as much research as you can, know your
product and how to produce it. Having an education in design. Knowing pattern
making and sewing has been crucial. I made all of my product the first year, so
when I grew, I knew exactly how it needed to be manufactured. If you’re more
business based and you have the ideas but not these skills, make sure you hire
someone who does.”—Lara Miller, womenswear

“Expect long working hours, requiring endless dedication, many degrees of

extreme satisfaction as well as compromise. Never let go of the dream because
your desire will take you there.”—Nicole Romano, womenswear, accessories

“Start now — design. Design like there is no tomorrow because once the

business starts to roll, you’ ll find yourself dealing with contractors, stores and
handling problems long before you have any time to be creative with your pencil
and paper. Most of the creativity that follows in the business is how to
survive.”—Christine Alcalay, womenswear

1
Before You Start

Now is the time. People are eager for young designers. Each year, there is
growing interest, buzz, and support for new talent. Stores and magazines
compete aggressively to discover the best new designer first. Around the world,
industry organizations have created awards and financial assistance to recognize
and support new names. Consumers are tired of the sameness offered by the big
brands and seek something special to set them apart. The Internet has made new
fashion accessible to all corners of the world, with many new sites dedicated to
selling emerging labels and profiling the designers behind them. Even reality TV
has jumped on the bandwagon to feed the curiosity about life as an aspiring
fashion star.

All of this offers more opportunity to reach people and new ways to succeed.

However, this is also one of the most challenging times for new designers. The
competition is growing as more people are drawn to the perceived glamour and
star power of the field. While the big brands are getting bigger, the department
stores are consolidating, celebrities from Kate Moss and Victoria Beckham to
Mary Kate and Ashley Olsen are continuing to jump on the designer bandwagon,
and fast fashion—from H&M, Uniqlo, and Forever 21—is claiming chunks of
the fashion-forward market. The press and buyers send mixed messages and put
extraordinary pressure on designers to become instant household names. Ron
Frasch, chief merchant at Saks Fifth Avenue, said, “Our industry does have a
tendency to overhype the few who are the rising stars. We can destroy you

probably faster than you can destroy yourself.”1 It’s tempting, but dangerous, to
succumb to the hype and unrealistic expectations of the fashion world.

The Reality
To help you succeed, right up front we have to strip away the glamorous image
of runway shows, celebrities on red carpets, and designers yachting in St. Barts.
I don’t want to rain on the parade, but fashion is a business. It’s the business of
making and selling clothing and accessories.