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The Edible Mushroom: A Gourmet Cook’s Guide PDF

228 Pages·1993·9.662 MB·English
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met Look s fe&SSv- | Revised Edition Margaret Leibenstein THE EDIBLE MUSHROOM “Margaret Leibenstein’s The Edible Mushroom is ... a fine reference . . . a compendium of fine recipes ... a book I will turn to often.” —Peter Kump, director, The New York Cooking School “A unique and welcome addition to the culinary bookshelves of America.” —Susy Davidson, former director, La Varenne Ecole de Cuisine, Paris “Out of her zest for good food and for careful research, Marge Leibenstein has written a splendid book which cooks and eaters alike will enjoy.” —Barbara Ketcham Wheaton, Honorary Curator of Cookbooks, Schlesinger Library, Radcliffe College Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2018 with funding from Kahle/Austin Foundation https://archive.org/details/ediblemushroomgo0000leib_p0u4 THE EDIBLE MUSHROOM A Gourmet Cook’s Guide Revised Edition MARGARET LEIBENSTEIN Illustrations by Monika Bittman Old Saybrook, Connecticut Copyright © 1986, 1993 by Margaret Leibenstein Illustrations copyright © 1986 by Monika Bittman All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying and recording, or by any information storage and retrieval system, except as may be expressly permitted by the 1976 Copyright Act or by the publisher. Requests for permission should be made in writing to The Globe Pequot Press, P.O. Box 833, Old Saybrook, Connecticut 06475. The author is grateful for permission to include the following recipes: Paula Wolfert’s Asparagus with Black Morels. Copyright © 1985 by Paula Wolfert. Saute of Snails and Boletes. Copyright © 1985 by L’Academie de Cuisine, Inc., Francois M. Dionot. Stewed Chanterelles in Ginger Sauce. Copyright © 1985 by Julie Sahni. The Romagnolis’ Pasta with Porcini and Tomato Sauce. Copyright © 1985 by Margaret and G. Franco Romagnoli. Stir-fried Rainbow Vegetables in a Spicy Ginger- Garlic Sauce. Copyright © 1984 by Nina Simonds. Cover photography Copyright © Burke/Triolo Photographic Studio, Los Angeles, California Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Leibenstein, Margaret. The edible mushroom : a gourmet cook’s guide / Margaret Leibenstein ; illustrations by Monika Bittman. — Rev. ed. p. cm. Includes index. ISBN 1-56440-172-3 1. Cookery (Mushrooms) 2. Mushrooms, Edible. I. Title. TX804.L45 1993 64l.6’58—dc20 92-41571 CIP Manufactured in the United States of America Revised Edition/First Printing 0 0 0 TO HARVEY 0 0 0 CONTENTS Preface xi Introduction xv Mushrooms in History 1 General Rules for Buying, Preparing, and Preserving Fresh Wild Mushrooms 9 SPRING 15 Morels 17 Boletes 32 LATE SUMMER THROUGH FALL 49 Chanterelles and Horns-of-Plenty 51 Meadow Mushrooms 68 Oyster Mushrooms 85 Hedgehog Mushrooms 99 Chicken-of-the-Woods and Hen-of-the Woods 113 WINTER 129 Truffles 131 THE ORIENTAL MUSHROOMS 143 Shiitakes 145 Matsutakes 153 Enokitakes 158 DRIED MUSHROOMS FOR ALL SEASONS 163 Dried Boletes 167 Dried Chanterelles 174 Dried Morels 177 Dried Shiitakes 181 Dried Wood Ears 186 Basic Recipes 190 Mail Order Sources of Mushrooms 197 Index 200 OOO RECIPES Fresh Morel Soup 20 Morels in Cream 22 Paula Wolfert’s Asparagus with Black Morels 23 Morels Stuffed with Shrimp Mousse 25 Morel-stuffed Artichokes 27 Veal Stew with Morels 30 Boletes and Beef Consomme 35 Grilled Porcini 36 Mushrooms Braised in Olive Oil 38 Bolete and Goat Cheese Tart 39 Saute of Snails and Boletes 42 Boletes Hidden in Chicken Mousse 44 Cepes and Ham Hunter’s Style 47 Chanterelles and Smoked Ham in Cream 54 Marinated Chanterelles and Maine Shrimp 56 Stewed Chanterelles in Ginger Sauce 58 Chanterelles and Chicken Livers with Polenta 60 Duck Liver with Chanterelles 62 Warm Sausage Salad with Chanterelles 64 Turkey Scallops with Chanterelles 66 Wild Mushroom and Vegetable Soup 71 Crab Bisque with Meadows and Shiitakes 73 Meadow Piroshki 75 Calzone Est, Est, Est 78 Wild Mushrooms with Eggs Gennargentu 81

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