THE DESIGN OF WEARABLE TECHNOLOGY: ADDRESSING THE HUMAN

206 Pages·2004·3.61 MB·English

by  Lucy Dunne

THE DESIGN OF WEARABLE TECHNOLOGY:
ADDRESSING THE HUMAN-DEVICE INTERFACE
THROUGH FUNCTIONAL APPAREL DESIGN

A Thesis
Presented to the Faculty of the Graduate School
of Cornell University
in Partial Fulfillment of the Requirements of the Degree of
Master of Arts

by
Lucy E. Dunne
August 2004
©2004 Lucy E. Dunne
ABSTRACT

Wearable technology, as a new application environment for electronic and
computing devices of all kinds, presents many new challenges to designers. The fields
of human-computer interaction and functional wearability must each address new
problems in the design of wearable technology. Wearable technology also introduces
new social concerns, as it can mediate the ways in which an individual is perceived by
others, interacts with others, and manages his/her own physical space.
Because the field of wearable technology is very new, the design of wearable
technology is still relatively unexplored. The dominant design culture in current
wearable technology research, that of electrical engineering and computer science, is
unused to addressing variables related to the human body, mind, and social interaction.
Good design choices for wearable technology depend on understanding and
acknowledging the wide array of interdisciplinary variables that affect user interaction
with a wearable device. The functional apparel design culture brings an
interdisciplinary approach to wearable technology design, and its structured design
process offers designers a means of organizing and addressing issues, and identifying
new variables to be considered in future work. This thesis seeks to use the functional
apparel design process to approach the new variables involved in the interface
between the body-mounted device and the human user in three areas: an input device
(a bio-monitoring bra), an output device (a shoulder pad vibrotactile display), and the
aesthetic and psychological issues of visual representation of technology (a set of
massage shirts). These projects address physical, cognitive, and social user needs in
wearable technology.
The development of the shoulder pad vibrotactile display sought to create an
intuitive, visually subtle, physically comfortable tactile display device within a
standard garment insert, using the volume of the shoulder pad as an integration space.
The evaluation process found the use of a pre-existing garment space such as the
shoulder pad to be successful for the integration of electronics, and the device to be
perceptible at a low level of resolution.
The bio-monitoring bra study evaluated several variables involved in the use of
garment-integrated contact (not adhesive) electrodes for bio-monitoring, an input
modality that creates a low cognitive load for the user. Garment-integrated electrodes
were designed to replace the medical standard adhesive electrodes, to increase the
physical and social comfort of the user. Contact electrodes were tested in both an
EMG (muscle activity) configuration and in an ECG (heartbeat) configuration. The
ECG configuration recorded a useable signal during periods of low activity level, but
the EMG configuration was not able to capture useful muscle activity data.
A set of massage shirts was developed to investigate the varying social needs
of users regarding the visual display of garment functionality. Two focus groups were
conducted, and an application was chosen (shoulder and back massage) that was
attractive and useful to subjects with a wide variety of personality types and aesthetic
tastes. Three prototypes were constructed, with the same vibrating shoulder and back
massage, but with the embedded technology concealed or displayed to varying
degrees. These prototypes were evaluated, to determine the relationship between
subject self-perceived personality and desire to conceal or display technology. Results
showed the application to be attractive to most users, and aesthetic needs to be quite
varied, even within an individual.
The functional apparel design process, as well as the knowledge and intuition
about the body interface gained from the study of functional apparel design can help to
broaden the scope of interdisciplinary variables considered in the design of wearable
technology, and thereby produce a more successful design.
BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCH

Lucy Dunne was born in Albany, NY on October 27, 1980, the daughter of
James Dunne and Lucy McCaffrey Dunne. After graduating from Bethlehem Central
High School, Delmar, NY in 1998, she entered Cornell University in Ithaca, NY.
During her undergraduate studies, she focused on functional clothing design, and
specifically began to research wearable technology during her Junior year. She spent
the spring of 2001 studying Art History in Paris, with the Wells College Paris
program. That summer she interned at Starlab in Brussels, Belgium, as part of the i-
wear intelligent clothing consortium, researching application areas and theories of
intelligent clothing, with a focus on personal expression in intelligent clothing. As an
Honors student at Cornell, she completed a thesis entitled “Smart Systems: Wearable
Integration of Intelligent Technology”, which involved the design, construction, and
testing of a smart winter jacket for athletic users. Lucy graduated with Honors from
Cornell University in May of 2002, with a Bachelor’s of Science degree in Textiles
and Apparel, concentration in Apparel Design.
In August, 2002, Lucy entered the Graduate School at Cornell University,
remaining in the Department of Textiles and Apparel. As a graduate student she
served as a teaching assistant for basic sewing and patternmaking courses, as well as a
research assistant for several faculty research projects. Her thesis work was presented
at several conferences in the US and Europe, and published in the proceedings of these
conferences. The work was completed in August of 2004. Lucy will continue her
studies in wearable technology as a PhD candidate in the Department of Computer
Science at the University College Dublin, Ireland.
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ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

Creativity does not take place in a vacuum. Therefore, I would like to thank the many
people who gave invaluable assistance, advice, and support to help me along my way:

Dr. Susan P. Ashdown
Dr. Phoebe Sengers
Aaron Toney and Dr. Bruce Thomas
Susan Watkins
Rich Devaul and the MIT Wearables Lab
Dr. Tarleton Gillespie
Dr. Van Dyk Lewis
Adam Kravetz
Buz Barstow
The Dunne Family

Various parts of this thesis were funded by:

The College of Human Ecology, Cornell University
Department of Textiles and Apparel, Cornell University
The International Textiles and Apparel Association

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TABLE OF CONTENTS
Title Page………………………………………………………………………………i
Biographical Sketch…………………………………………...………………………iii
Acknowledgements……………………………………………………………………iv
Table of Contents…………………………………………...…………………………vi
List of Tables…………………………….…...……………..………………………...ix
List of Figures………………………………………………………………………….x
Introduction………………..………...…………………………………………………1
Chapter 1: Background………..…..…………………………………………………...5
1.1 Wearable Technology.................................................................................5
1.2 Functional Clothing....................................................................................8
1.2.1 Wearability in Wearable Technology……..…………………………....9
1.2.1.1 Thermal Management………………………………………….10
1.2.1.2 Moisture Management…………………………………………11
1.2.1.3 Mobility………………………………...………………………12
1.2.1.4 Flexibility………………………………………………………12
1.2.1.5 Durability………………………………………………………13
1.2.1.6 Sizing and Fit……………………………..……………………13
1.2.1.7 Garment Care……………………………..……………………13
1.2.2 The Functional Apparel Design Process………………………………15
1.3 Western Clothing Forms: A Technological Perspective..........................17
1.3.1 Colonial America……………………………………………………...19
1.3.2 The Emergence of Ready-to-Wear Clothing…….…………………….19
1.3.2.1 The Industrial Revolution………………………………………..20
1.3.2.2 The 20th Century………………………….………………………21
1.3.3 The Computer Age…………………………………………………….22
1.3.4 Customization and Adaptability……………….………………………23
1.3.5 The Emergence of Wearable Technology……….…………………….25
1.4 Configuring the User in Wearable Technology Design...........................27
1.4.1 Physical Configuration of the User……………………………………29
1.4.2 Cognitive Configuration of the User…………………………………..35
1.4.3 Social Configuration of the User…………………...…………………38
1.4.4 Homogenizing the User……………………………………………….40
1.4.5 Design Culture and the Aware Design Process……………………….43
1.5 Method of Approach.............................................................................45
1.5.1 Distribution, Integration, and Applications in Wearable Technology
Design.................................................................................................48
1.5.2 Socially Adaptive/Accommodating Design.......................................50
Chapter 2: Input Devices: The Bio-Monitoring Bra……………….…………………53
2.1 Methodology: Bio-Monitoring Bra..........................................................54
2.1.1 Background: Electromyography………………………………………55
2.1.2 Methods of EMG Measurement……………………………………….56
2.1.3 Background: Electrocardiography…………………………………….57
2.1.4 Mobile Measurement of ECG…………………………………………60
2.1.5 Electrode-Based Monitoring in the Wearable Environment…………..62
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2.1.6 Subjects………………………………………………………………..63
2.1.7 Prototype garments: EMG configuration……………………………...63
2.1.8 Prototype Garments: ECG Configuration……………………………..66
2.1.9 Experimental Procedure……………………………………………….68
2.2 Results: Bio-Monitoring Bra....................................................................69
2.2.1 EMG Test……………………………………………………………...69
2.2.1.1 No-Gel Group…………………………………………….70
2.2.1.2 Gel Group…………………………………………………71
2.2.2 ECG Test………………………………………………………………73
2.2.2.1 Baseline ECG Recording………………………………………74
2.2.2.2 Arm Movement Test…………………………………………...75
2.2.2.3 Jogging Test……………………………………………………76
2.3 Discussion: Bio-Monitoring Bra..............................................................77
2.3.1 Observations: EMG Test………………………………………………79
2.3.2 Observations: ECG Test……………………………………………….81
2.3.3 Sources of Error…………………………………………………….....82
2.4 Conclusions/Future Work: Bio-Monitoring Bra......................................84
2.4.1 Design Process………………………………………………………...84
2.4.2 Prototype Evaluation…………………………………………………..85
Chapter 3: Output Devices: The Shoulder Pad Vibrotactile Display…..……………..91
3.1 Methodology: The Shoulder Pad Vibrotactile Display............................92
3.1.1 Physiology: The Cutaneous Senses…………………………………....94
3.1.2 Garment Inserts………………………………………………………..99
3.1.3 Sizing: Determination of Pad Size and Shape……………………….100
3.1.4 Materials: Development of Shoulder Pad……………………………104
3.1.5 Selection of Stimulator……………………………………………….110
3.1.6 Functionality: Development of electronics…………………………..112
3.1.7 Subjects………………………………………………………………114
3.1.8 Testing Apparatus……………………………………………………114
3.1.9 Experimental Procedure……………………………………………...116
3.2 Results: Shoulder Pad Vibrotactile Display...........................................118
3.2.1 Data Analysis………………………………………………………...118
3.2.2 Quantitative Results………………………………………………….119
3.2.2.1 Perception……………………………………………………..119
3.2.2.2 Detection……………………………………………………...119
3.2.3 Qualitative responses………………………………………………...121
3.3 Discussion: Shoulder Pad Vibrotactile Display.....................................122
3.3.1 Development/Design Process………………………………………..122
3.3.2 Observations………………………………………………………….123
3.3.3 Sources of error………………………………………………………124
3.4 Conclusions/Future Work: The Shoulder Pad Vibrotactile Display......126
3.4.1 Design Process……………………………………………………….126
3.4.2 Evaluation Process…………………………………………………...127
Chapter 4: Aesthetics and Identity: The Massage Shirts…………………… ……...130
4.1 Methodology: Massage Shirts................................................................131
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4.1.1 Focus Group Subjects………………………………………………..132
4.1.2 Focus Group Procedure………………………………………………132
4.1.3 Prototype Garments…………………………………………………..133
4.1.4 Testing………………………………………………………………..135
4.1.4.1 Pilot Test……………………………………………………...135
4.1.4.2 Massage Shirt Survey…………………………………………135
4.2 Results: Massage Shirts..........................................................................136
4.2.1 Focus Group Results…………………………………………………..136
4.2.1.1 Subjects……………………………………………………….137
4.2.1.2 Clothing Discussion…………………………………………..137
4.2.1.3 Stress Discussion……………………………………………...139
4.2.1.4 Technology Discussion……………………………………….141
4.2.2 Prototype Development………………………………………………143
4.2.3 Pilot Test……………………………………………………………..145
4.2.4 Massage Shirt Survey………………………………………………...149
4.3 Discussion: Massage Shirts....................................................................153
4.3.1 Observations: Focus Groups…………………………………………153
4.3.1.1 Clothing Discussion…………………………………………..153
4.3.1.2 Stress Discussion……………………………………………..153
4.3.1.3 Technology Discussion……………………………………….154
4.3.2 Development/Design Process………………………………………..154
4.3.3 Observations: Pilot Test……………………………………………...155
4.3.4 Observations: Massage Shirt Survey………………………………...156
4.4 Conclusions/Future Work: Massage Shirts............................................158
4.4.1 Design Process……………………………………………………….158
4.4.2 Evaluation Process…………………………………………………...158
Chapter 5: Conclusion……… ………………………………………………………163
Appendix 1: Questions for Focus Groups…………….……………………………..168
Appendix 2: Focus Group Data Codes………….…………………………………..171
Appendix 3: Massage Shirt Pilot Survey……………………………………………173
Appendix 4: Massage Shirt Survey…………..……………………………………...177
Appendix 5: Massage Shirt Design Sketches……………..………………………...182
Appendix 6: Massage Shirt Prototype Images……………………………………....186
References…...………………………………………………………………………190
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LIST OF TABLES

Table 1.1: Changes in the Clothing Concept…………………………………………24
Table 3.1: Human mechanoreceptors and corresponding sensory modalities………94
Table 3.2: Body Sizes for Shoulder Pad Grade…………………………………….103
Table 3.3: Shoulder Pad Grade……………………………………………………..104

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