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' jjw$m$- Mary'Ann'seiiume (Decoratii/ec4rtr Qoueftioru STERLING AND FRANCINE CLAR1C ART INSTITUTE L1BRART - veIka .> #S vW %k fi,v r# 1 Uov r -1 THE CUTTERS' PRACTICAL CUIDE TO THE CUTTING OF L^DIGS' GI^EQEPTS EMBRACING ill Ike few aid Ihpfi^I %t OF (Ei^g class anti stgk Xabtcs1 #apmtf, trf Now being made in the best Tailoring Firms. m\\ ttaiiFated Eiap>ams ant figapa; llllIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIII W, -By •©. F. IKiiiciiit. IHI1IIIIIIIII1I1IIIIII 1 1I 1IIIII II1111II LOirnDonsr - PRINTED AND PUBLISHED BY THE JOHN WILLIAMSON COMPANY, LIMITED, 93 & 94 DRURY LANE. W.C _^-T/:v^_^. PRINTED BY THE JOHN WILLIAMSON COMPANY, LIMITED, 98 & 94 DRURY LANE, LONDON, W.C. \ fiMiskiFS fitful: The material changes in gentlemen's garments are so gradual and comparatively slight, that a good work on their production may continue to be of practical value for well nigh a generation. The case stands very differently with Ladies' Garments, which — — change very materially so in some cases every season necessitating a new work for ; their production every two, or at most, three years. Apart from this necessity in point of new styles and fashions, many inquiries have been made lately as to whether we had a work on Ladies' Garments by the Cutters' Practical Guide System, and if not, whether we intended preparing such. The work we now introduce being based on the " Guide " — System, it is thus prepared to meet a two-fold want or demand an instructor and guide to the production of all the new and popular styles in tailor-made garments and also the ; demand for such a work by the Practical Guide System. The work itself will bear testimony to its scope, and the way in which every current, as well as new style of Ladies' Tailor-made Garment is treated and illustrated. Here we have the systems for producing the garments, each illustrated by beautifully engraved diagrams and there is further, the finished garments, illustrated upon artistically en- ; graved figures. The work thus presents a completeness, which renders it an invaluable acquisition to the Ladies' cutter. Should the inexperienced or timid cutter hesitate to use his own productions by these systems, our arrangements for supplying Special Cut — Patterns of any style of ladies' garment—if the style can be conveyed to us at a very nominal price, will meet the difficulty, at the same time allow him to compare our pattern with his own production. We doubt not but this new and latest Work will fully sustain the character we have already attained by the Works now being published at the Tailor and Cutter Office. The John Williamson Company Limited. ZU&£^ x& . -ZTr^GTXV TO €lf fINCH The object we set before us in this work, is the some of the laws of science. They will often tell yon preparation of a Complete Instructor and (iuide in where the seams of their garments must be placed, and the production of all Ladies' Garments which may be they know the effect certain styles of ornamentation classed as "tailor-made," not only as regards the cut, will have on the body and woe to the reputation of ; the fit and the making, but embracing also all the new, the man who leads them in the wrong direction ; and the current and the popul—ar styles, in all their different although we do not wish to impute that, with all ladies, classes and departments an Instructor to the inex- dress is the one end and object of their life, yet they perienced, and a (iuide to the experienced cutter. study it, they read about it, they write about it, they While tailoring has been largely augmented during talk about it, they think about it, they attend public recent years by Ladies' Garments, this comparatively institutions to look at it, they work for it, aye, and new branch is capable of very considerable further often deny themselves the common necessaries of lifeto development, which can. only be accomplished by procure it. We do not condemn all this : our object cutters generally setting themselves to study and is rather to show the cutter who hopes to become first- acquire the Art of Cutting and getting up Ladies' class at this branch of tailoring, the necessity there is — •iarments an art in Tiiost respects widely different for application and study, to become acquainted with from the production of gentlemen's garments, and science in all its teachings, so as to apply it to his which must receive special and attentive study before calling ; to thoroughly unde]"stand the application of success can be possible. This work will supply the art in all its fine studies, so as to utilize its lessons to necessary materials in every detail for such study. the adorning of the female form ; to understand the Starting at the beginning, with the anatomy of the phases of practical tailoring, which enables form to be female figure, we proceed step by step till we embrace introduced into what was before flat and lifeless. We every point connected with the production of Ladies' might proceed almost indefinitely to show how know- tailor-made garments, in all their styles and varieties, ledge was power in this direction, but we will take the so that by application and perseverance, any cutter of various phases in their order, and leave the student to ordinary tact and intelligence,can, throughthemedium follow up the study of many of the subjects which we of the following pages, master this noble art, and so may only be able to touch lightly indealing with them. enable him, as cutter, to take any position in a high- To understand our subject thoroughly, the first subject class trade: or, as master, to develop his trale by the we must deal with is making of ladies" garments, turned out with such fit, Anatomy, taste and style, as will be well nigh certain to ensure success. A subject deserving of far more attention from tailors Such, briefly, is the aim and object of this work. than it receives. It is a study which recalls to us the This must be a continuous study on the part of the laws ofour1)ivineCreatorwhenhefashionedourbodies. cutter, for fashions change so rapidly, onestylesucceeds It is not necessary that our readers spend months another so speedily, that unless he is on the alert, he or years acquiring the names of all the bones of the will soon drop back into the second rate : for it is human figure : what we want them to understand is, well known that ladies' make a study of dress ; they that a bone of such a shape is in such a position, and not only know what is the latest style, but they also that its movements are in certain directions ; that it is understand every application of art, and very often surrounded by certain muscles which develop in cer £4i&ZXP?i& :_ : ^^p*^ THE CUTTERS PRACTICAL GUIDE tain directions and, having acquired this knowledge, his notice in practice how very much extra the hips are : the cutter will be able to distinguish between the pos- developed in the female form than the male. Another sible and the impossible in nature, and so lay the reference to Figures 1 and 2 will readily illustrate this foundation for formulating sound systems. It will of the male pelvis we shall not particularise, but of the enable him to understand the outline of the form he female we wish to call attention to the fine oval form has to clothe, independent of such artificial appliances itpresents ascompared with the male, thegreatbreadth as bustles, crinolines, &c, &c. of the haunch bones, &c. It is this great breadth of It teaches the symmetry of the body, and shows how the hips in woman, that the ladies' tailor has toobserve the left side is an almost exact reproduction of the and make provision for, and which, together with the right only in reverse. otherpeculiarities of the female skeleton, will open his It teaches where growth is possible and where impos- eyes to the reason for many of the effects he has to sible how certain bones always remain near the sur- face ;of the skin, and how when the body develops deal with. Important as is the study of anatomy as a foundation upon which to build up a scientific and either fat or muscle, where the increment is placed, and how it affects the surrounding parts. practical knowledge, we do not wish to overlook the It teaches the movements of limbs, where the three undisputed fact, that the skeleton bears but an indis- tinct resemblance to the outside, the muscles and flesh different joints are to be found, viz.,* the gliding, the formation having much to do with that. But a little universal or ball socket and the hinge joint. study will soon inform us where and how these muscles But the study that applies more particularly to this develop, and as we know the bones never really alter work, is what we may turn comparative anatomy, by their actual forms (though they may seem to do so by which we may realize the difference between the male the condition of the surrounding muscles) and conse- and female form, and as we have treated of anatomy in quently a knowledge of the skeleton formation is the Part I of the "Cutter's Practical Guide," we will sup- very best foundation we can possibly have. In pose the readers of this work have made themselves, to a certain extent, acquainted with the general anatomy the male form. On Figure 3 and 4, Figure 1, We have illustrations showing the proportions < f man and woman, taken from a manual of artistic anatomy The female skeleton is illustrated, and on figure 2 the by Robert Knox, M.D., F.R.K.E., which still further male. By comparison we at once notice the smallness emphasizes the lessons we learnt from the skeleton. of the ribs and the largeness of the hips, whilst the The shoulders are small, the circumference of the chest space between the chest and pelvis (hips) is much isincreased by the developmentof thebreasts, the extra wider in woman than in man. The collar bones are size of the hips and thighs, and lastly the softness of weaker in woman than in man, and are differently outline which seems to hide every trace of the skeleton. shaped, which remark applies to all the bones of the and even tones down and in many cases altogether superior extremities.! hides the muscledevelopment whichis soclearlymarked The ribs of the female are not so arch-like nor so in man. strong as in the male. We cannot close this section on anatomy, without When the bones are quite characteristic, the male referring to one of the best works published in modern are more arched than the famale ribs, especially be- times by J. Bononi, F.R.A.S., M.S.B.A., entitled. tween the fifth and ninth on either side. It is there Proportions of the Human Figure and from which the that thefemale ribs are flattened, and it isin thissitua- following diagrams and quotations of relative propor- that the female waist exists. In man, when strongly tions of the human figure are taken. formed, the ribs continue fully arched, much lower Amongst the various difficult questions which are down, placing his waist between the last rib and the always cropping up in connection with our art is : top of the haunches. What is proportion ? and on this topic we give the In man, the back is strong ; in woman, the loins. definition of proportion as laid down by Virtrivius. But probably the point wherein the tailor will learn "Proportion is the commensuration of the various con- the best lesson is the hips, as it will soon force itself to stituent parts with the whole, on the existence of which symmetry is found to consist." As, for instance, the * These were fnlly described in Part I ofthe "Cutter's human frame is divided into four equal parts by very PracticalGuide." distinctly marked divisions in itsstructure and outward t Scapula, clavicle, humerus, radius, ulna, carpel, roeta- form. See ^carpelanddigitalbones. _ -(a^gg^Pi^,.