the colours of the memory

250 Pages·2014·34.31 MB·English

THE COLOURS
OF THE MEMORY
An Architectural Route
for Sentimental Travellers
Asilah
THE COLOURS OF THE MEMORY
An Architectural Route for Sentimental Travellers
Malaga
Tangier Al Hoceima
Asilah Nador
Larache Chaouen
Tetouan
3 The Colours of the Memory
EDITED BY: Khalifa (Regional Delegation of Tourism in Tetouan) •
Malaga City Council. European Programmes Service. Abdeslam Moudden (Association of Guides in Chaouen )•
Urban Environment Observatory, OMAU. Mohamed Hakoun (Photographer, Chaouen) • Vicente
www.omau-malaga.com Moreno (Resident in Chaouen) • Manuel Pérez Salvador
www.malagamarruecos.com (Resident in Uixán, Spanish Company “Minas de Rif” in
Uixán) • Rifat Ballot (Al Hoceima City Council) • Omar
IDEA: Taibi (Taza-Al hoceima-Taounate Regional Government)•
Pedro Marín Cots. Director of the OMAU. Mohamed Daoud (Taza-Al hoceima-Taounate Regional
Government) • Omar Lemallam (“Memories of the Rif”,
AUTHOR (Design of the routes and texts): Al Hoceima) • Miguel Lacalle Alfaro (Writer and documen-
Mónica López Soler talist in Al Hoceima) • Santiago Lacalle Alfaro (Photogra-
pher, Al Hoceima).
PHOTOGRAPHY:
Pepe Zapata
CURRENT PHOTOGRAPHS:
Kumiko Masame (Tangier)
Roger Martorell Ardura (Malaga)
OTHER IMAGES:
Mariano Bertuchi’s Family (Successors of Mariano Bertu-
chi) • Luis Ruiz Padrón (Drawings of Malaga) • Mohamed
Raiss El Fenni (Drawings of Tangier) • F. Félix Jiménez
Zurita (Tetouan) • Domingo Outón Leiva (Chaouen) •
Rachel Muyal (Tangier) • Laureano García Fuentes (Boats)
• Sergio Barce Gallardo (Larache) • Mónica López Soler
(various) • La Trashtería (various) • La Odisea (Malaga) • • The Author is exclusively responsible for the texts in the
Imprenta Cremades (Larache) • Melilla General Archive. current edition.
Emilio Blanco Izaga Fund • Díaz Escovar Archive (Malaga) • Texts: © of the author and the European Programmes Ser-
• Al Hoceima Regional Government (Al Hoceima) • Tan- vice, Malaga City Council, OMAU
gier City Council (Tangier) • Malaga City Archive (Malaga)
• Malaga Diputation (various) • OMAU (various). • Current photographs of Morocco – Malaga: © of the au-
thors and the European Programmes Service, Malaga City
DESIGN: Council, OMAU.
Mónica López Soler • Images of Mariano Bertuchi: © Mariano Bertuchi`s Family.
• Images of E. Blanco Izaga: © Melilla General Archive.
DESIGN OF THE TITLE PAGES, BASIC LAYOUT:
Combo Producciones Background: Emilio Blanco Izaga.
MAPS: VREC Soluciones Multimedia
The rest of the photos (current and old), documents and
LAYOUT: Mónica López Soler artistic reproductions are accompanied by ownership ri-
VREC Soluciones Multimedia ghts. The ownership rights are exclusive of their authors.
Permission was granted for their use in this book (The ima-
HISTORICAL CONSULTANT: Virgilio Martínez Enamorado ges which do not have any references are property of M.
López Soler).
COLLABORATORS: Alejandro Pérez-Malumbres Landa This guide can be downloaded on the website of the Coope-
(Official Tourist Guide, Arqueoguía, Malaga) • Mariano ration Programme Malaga-Morocco:
Bertuchi Alcaide (M. Bertuchi’s Grandson) • Mourad El www.malagamarruecos.com
Jaouhari (Larache City Council) • Sergio Barce Gallardo
(Writer, founding member of the Association “Larache in Malaga at the end of 2013
the World”) • Almudena Quintana Arranz and Abdelkrim (1435 of the Hegira / 2963 of the Amazigh calendar).
Bentato (Cervantes Institute’s Library, Tetouan) • Moham-
med Benaboud (“Tetouan Asmir” Association) • Ahmed
An Architectural Route for Sentimental Travellers 4
Collaborating partners in the Arrabales project, carried out
in the context of the Programme POCTEFEX:
TANGIER CITY COUNCIL
C/ Marrakech, Tánger C.P: 90.000
Tel.: [phone] Fax: [phone]
LARACHE CITY COUNCIL
Avenue Mohamed V, Larache BP:605 CP: 92000
Tel.: [phone] Fax: [phone]
Mail: [email protected]
TETOUAN CITY COUNCIL
Avenida 9 Abril s/n, zona administrativa, Tetuán
CP: 93000
Tel.: [phone] Fax:+ 212 (0) 539 999 494
Mail: [email protected]
www.tetouan.ma
CHEFCHAOUEN CITY COUNCIL
Place Mohamed V, Chefchauen CP 91000
Tel.: [phone] Fax:: [phone]
www.chaouen.ma
NADOR CITY COUNCIL
Delegation of Tourism in Nador
Route Segagan N° 57 – Nador
Tel.[phone] Fax: [phone]
Mail: [email protected]
Mail : culture_cunador@yahoo.
AL HOCEIMA CITY COUNCIL
Calle Hassan II BP 64 CP: 32000, Alhucemas
Tel.: [phone] Fax:[phone]
Mail: [email protected]; service.coope-
[email protected].
www.riftourisme.com/
www.rodpal.org/
TANGIER-TETOUAN REGION
Calle des Amoureux, Tánger BP 1292, CP 90000
Tel.: [phone] Fax: [phone]
Mail: [email protected]
TAZA- AL HOCEIMA- TAOUNATE
Barrio Calabonita, Caja Postal 270, Alhucemas CP 32000
Tel.: [phone] Fax: [phone]
Mail: [email protected]
www.region-tat.ma
5 The Colours of the Memory
The Arrabales Project is being carried out in the context of the Operative
Programme for Cross-border Cooperation (Spain-Exterior) POCTEFEX. This
programme promotes collaboration between Spain and Morocco.
This guide has been promoted by Malaga City council within the Arrabales pro-
ject. This publication presents an architectural guide to the northern cities of
Morocco and Malaga. It offers touristic and cultural routes which take the rea-
der around the historic centres of the partner cities participating in the Arrabales project. The route
starts in Malaga and continues on to Tangier, Larache, Asilah, Tetouan, Chefchaouen, Al Hoceima and
Nador. This route aims to connect the old cities in the promotion of cultural tourism in an attempt
to assist in the rehabilitation and protection of architectural heritage through knowledge, diffusion
and value creation. It also highlights the shared history between the two sides of the Mediterranean.
An Architectural Route for Sentimental Travellers 6
Index
7 Advice on how to use the guide
9 The Colours of the Memory: route designs
ITINERARY
15 Malaga
21 The Medina
51 Malaga by the Sea
62 Seaside Malaga
65 Tangier
75 The Medina
93 The Modern City
110 The Surrounding Areas: Towards Cape Espartel
111 Larache
117 The Medina
129 The Ensanche
140 Lixus
142 Asilah
147 Tetouan
151 The Medina
165 The Ensanche
183 The Surrounding Areas: Tamuda and Martil
185 Chaouen
189 The Medina
203 The Ensanche
208 The Surrounding Areas: Chaouen Road - Wad Lau: Talasamtan Park
209 The Surrounding Areas: Wad Lau Road - Al-Yahba: Gomara Coast
211 Al Hoceima
217 The Historic City Centre
225 The Surrounding Areas: Al Hoceima National park: Los Bocoyas
228 The Surrounding Areas: Towards the East: Through the land of Abdelkrim
233 Nador
238 The Grid
243 The Surrounding Areas: Cape of Three Forks, Cazaza, Gurugú, Segangan,
Uixán Mines
247 Bibliography
7 The Colours of the Memory
Advice on how to use this guide
This guide will provide the reader with
Key
architectural routes that are recommen-
ded for sentimental travelers. Of course, The icons change according to the city.
you will not find everything you need in
it, as it would be impossible to fit every Highlighted sites:
last detail into a guide that is meant to be
used whilst on the go. 6 Identity number in the itinerary (urban
Due to this, and in line with the original space or monument)
idea behind the guide, the highlighted
Point of interest
places of interest, the accompanying
comments and the routes that have been Museum
marked out are merely an invitation for
you to start a journey that will take you Mosque
beyond written words. We advise you to
really “live” the places that you visit and Church
lose yourself in the depth of each city
and area. Zaouia (Headquarters of a Religious
We aim to make the history of each city Brotherhood)
come alive through a collection of pho-
C Domestic Architecture (house, palace,...)
tographs, images and descriptions that,
when put together, construct a collective
memory of this corner of the world. Practical Information:
Let yourself be accompanied by the expe- Pathway – Access on foot
riences of the travellers that have contri-
buted to this guide and by the bite–size Bus lines
information. They are meant to serve as
notes for your trip, like a quick drawing or Possible route by car
a Polaroid photo that attempt to reflect
the soul of the cities. Timetable
We invite you to add your personal expe-
rience and to point out, like any good re-
searcher or adventurer, the information
that the guide has missed out. As Borges
once said, to discover the unknown is not
only a special skill that can be done by
Simbad, Erik the Red or Copernicus. Every
person is an adventurer. These written pa-
ges, together with your impressions, will
be witness to this long journey, continuing
the never-ending story of each place
through the eyes of the traveler.
An Architectural Route for Sentimental Travellers 8
Number: indicates the loca- Coloured point: indicates the
tion on the map of the sights points of interest from the itinerary
included in the itinerary (ur- in the urban spaces
ban spaces and monuments).
Coloured line at the
side of the page: to
help you find each
city in the guide.
Every city has its
own colour, the col-
our that character-
ises the city.
Information with a paper-
clip: indicates practical
information about distanc-
es and types of roads.
Text with a coloured background: gen-
eral theme or information about a culture
or a city that is fundamental to under-
stand the route.
Text in a coloured outline: a specific
theme that highlights the architecture
of the city.
Text in a coloured outline at the
end of a section: tourist information.
Photos in a black
and white back-
ground: architecture
from the Spanish
Protectorate period
in Morocco. The
featured element is
left in colour provid-
ing a contrast to its
surroundings (in black
and white).
This route contains 7 itineraries. Each one we recommend the use of a good car. These parts can
will take you around the historic centre of each also be done on motorbikes and bicycles. Hiking is
city and the surrounding areas that are histori- also possible.
cally related.
The journey between cities can be done on paved
The itineraries for each city can be done on roads. We haven’t indicated any rough times for these
foot. journeys and the distances are approximate.
The surrounding areas can be visited The route has been designed in order to facilitate travel
by car. Some parts of the routes are along between the cities. However, you can also change your
unpaved roads which are passable, however, route without it affecting your understanding or enjoyment.
9 The Colours of the Memory
The Colours of the Memory. Design of the Routes
The light, the limestone, the colour, the sea. The colour isn’t an
adjective, it a noun that is the sign of the diversity of the world.
J. A. Valente
Colours live in our memory, we recognise The Itinerary
them without realising it. We associate them
with places and sensations without noticing. A look that runs through the streets like the written
These colours paint and shade all the corners
pages of a book. I. Calvino
of the world. Such is the case of the territory
which our route passes through, where certain The itinerary is like the storyline of a book, as you
colours unite geography and history. follow it, you can string together different parts of
As well as the intangible colours of the its history and understand the book as a whole.
Mediterranean light and climate and those of The route itself, similar to the Le Corbusier’s prom-
the Atlantic, the cities come alive with tangible enade architecturale, forms an important and es-
colours that are offered to us by nature and sential part of the itinerary. It doesn’t only point
elements that have been created by man. out the important things to be seen, but provides
Green is born from nature, the colour tone us with a spatial and temporal view of the city.
of the flowers and the earthy shades of the
ground which climb natural and man-made
Historic City Centres: Urban Spaces
walls. These same colours, which also season
food and dye fabric, are reproduced by man
in the pigments that stain the white of the Cities are a mixture of many things: memories,
limestone, in the decoration that can be seen desires, signs of a language; they are places
throughout the city and in the arts and crafts where bartering takes place, not only over
that are used in daily life. They are the colours goods or merchandise, but also bartering over
of history, colours that create a common words, desires and memories. I. Calvino
aesthetic on both sides of the Mediterranean
and which are evidence of a joint journey and The historic city centre is a portrait of the person-
legacy. Through them, and together with the ality of a city and tells us the story of its origins.
colour of the architecture of each city, we will The itineraries of the route take us through the
visit and get to know the cities that form part historic city centres, escaping every now and then
of the route. in search of clarifications and expla-
nations that help us to understand
them better.