The Coloration of Wool and Other Keratin Fibres

471 Pages·2013·34.171 MB·English

by  David M. Lewis, John A. Rippon

The Coloration
of Wool and other
Keratin Fibres
Editors
David M. Lewis
John A. Rippon

The Coloration of Wool and
other Keratin Fibres
Currentandfuturetitles intheSocietyofDyers
andColourists–JohnWileySeries
Published
TheColorationofWoolandotherKeratinFibres
DavidM.LewisandJohnA.Rippon
Forthcoming
NaturalDyeingforTextiles:AGuideBookforProfessionals
DebanjaliBanerjee
ColourfortheDesignIndustry
VienCheung
The Coloration of Wool and
other Keratin Fibres
Edited by
DAVID M. LEWIS
Department of Colour Science,
University of Leeds, UK
and
JOHN A. RIPPON
CSIRO Materials Science and Engineering, Australia
PublishedinassociationwiththeSocietyofDyersandColourists
SeriesEditor:AndrewFilarowski
Thiseditionfirstpublished2013byJohnWiley&SonsinassociationwiththeSocietyofDyersandColourists
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LibraryofCongressCataloging-in-PublicationData
Thecolorationofwoolandotherkeratinfibres./editedbyDavidM.LewisandJohnA.Rippon.
pagescm
Includesbibliographicalreferencesandindex.
ISBN978-1-119-96260-1(cloth)
1.Dyesanddyeing–Wool. I.Lewis,D.M.(DavidM.),editorofcompilation. II.Rippon,JohnA.,editorof
compilation. III.Title.
TP899.W662013
667(cid:3).2–dc23
2013005805
AcataloguerecordforthisbookisavailablefromtheBritishLibrary.
ISBN:9781119962601
Setin10/12ptTimesbyAptaraInc.,NewDelhi,India
Contents
ListofContributors xiii
SocietyofDyersandColourists xv
Preface xvii
1 TheStructureofWool 1
JohnA.Rippon
1.1 Introduction 1
1.2 CompositionofWool 2
1.3 ChemicalStructureofWool 5
1.3.1 GeneralChemicalStructureofProteins 5
1.3.2 AminoAcidCompositionofWool 6
1.3.3 ArrangementofAminoAcidsinWool 8
1.3.4 TheStructureofWoolProteins 11
1.3.5 WoolLipids 13
1.4 MorphologicalStructureofWool 14
1.4.1 TheCuticleandtheFibreSurface 16
1.4.2 TheCortex 23
1.4.3 TheCellMembraneComplex 27
1.5 ChemicalReactivityofWool 32
1.6 DamageinWoolDyeing 32
1.6.1 NonkeratinousProteinsandDamageinDyeing 33
1.6.2 InfluenceofDyebathpHonFibreDamage 34
1.7 Conclusion 35
References 35
2 TheChemicalandPhysicalBasisforWoolDyeing 43
JohnA.Rippon
2.1 Introduction 43
2.2 TheChemicalBasisforWoolDyeing 43
2.2.1 TheWool–WaterSystem 44
2.2.2 TheAmphotericNatureofWoolandDyeingBehaviour 44
2.2.3 ClassicalTheoriesofWoolDyeing 46
2.2.4 ModernTheoriesofWoolDyeing 49
2.3 StandardAffinityandHeatofDyeing 50
vi Contents
2.4 ClassificationofDyesUsedforWool 52
2.5 DyeAggregation 55
2.6 ThePhysicalBasisforWoolDyeing:TheRoleofFibreStructure 60
2.6.1 DiffusionofDyes 60
2.6.2 PathwaysofDyeDiffusionintoWool 61
2.7 EffectofChemicalModificationsonDyeing 66
2.7.1 Chlorination 66
2.7.2 PlasmaTreatment 67
2.7.3 DifferentialDyeing 68
2.8 Conclusion 68
References 69
3 TheRoleofAuxiliariesintheDyeingofWoolandotherKeratinFibres 75
ArthurC.Welham
3.1 Introduction 75
3.2 SurfaceActivityofWool-DyeingAuxiliaries 76
3.2.1 AnionicAuxiliaries 76
3.2.2 CationicAuxiliaries 77
3.2.3 EthoxylatedNonionicandCationicAuxiliaries 78
3.2.4 AmphotericAuxiliaries 80
3.2.5 OtherAuxiliaries 81
3.3 BrighteningAgents 81
3.4 LevellingAgents 82
3.4.1 MaterialFaults 83
3.4.2 DyeingandProcessingFaults 83
3.4.3 TestingtheActionofLevellingAgents 85
3.4.4 ProductSelection 86
3.4.5 CoverageofSkitteryorTippy-DyeingWool 86
3.5 RestrainingandReservingAgentsinWoolBlendDyeing 88
3.6 Antiprecipitants 89
3.7 WoolProtectiveAgents 89
3.8 Low-TemperatureDyeing 90
3.9 CorrectionofFaultyDyeings 92
3.10 AftertreatmentstoImproveWetFastness 93
3.11 EffluentControlinChromeDyeing 94
3.12 AntifrostingAgents 95
3.13 AntisettingAgents 95
3.14 SequesteringAgents 96
3.15 Conclusions 96
References 97
4 AncillaryProcessesinWoolDyeing 99
DavidM.Lewis
4.1 Introduction 99
4.2 WoolScouring 99
Contents vii
4.3 WoolCarbonising 100
4.4 Shrink-ResistTreatments 102
4.4.1 TopShrink-ResistProcesses 102
4.4.2 GarmentShrink-ResistTreatments 105
4.4.3 FabricShrink-ResistTreatments 106
4.4.4 MiscellaneousDevelopments 107
4.4.5 Colour-FastnessRequirementsforMachine-WashableWool 108
4.5 Insect-ResistTreatments 108
4.5.1 InsectPests 108
4.5.2 Insect-ResistAgents 109
4.5.3 ApplicationMethodsforIRAgents 113
4.6 Flame-RetardantTreatments 115
4.7 AntisettingAgents 116
4.7.1 TheRoleofOxidantsinPreventingSettinginDyeing 118
4.7.2 TheRoleofElectrophilicReagentsinControllingSettingin
Dyeing 119
4.8 FibreArylatingAgents(FAA) 120
References 126
5 BleachingandWhiteningofWool:PhotostabilityofWhites 131
KeithR.Millington
5.1 Introduction 131
5.2 WoolColour 132
5.2.1 MeasuringWoolColour 132
5.2.2 ImprovingWoolColourbySelection 134
5.2.3 ImprovingColourintheScour 134
5.2.4 NonscourableYellowing 135
5.2.5 WoolColourComparedwithCottonandSynthetics 135
5.3 WoolBleaching 138
5.3.1 OxidativeBleaching 138
5.3.2 ReductiveBleaching 139
5.3.3 Double(orFull)Bleaching 140
5.3.4 BleachingofPigmentedWools 140
5.3.5 BleachingintheDyebath 140
5.3.6 BiobleachingofWoolUsingEnzymes 142
5.3.7 ActivatedPeroxideBleaching 143
5.3.8 CatalyticPeroxideBleaching 144
5.3.9 NovelBleachingMethodsforWool 144
5.4 FluorescentWhiteningofWool 144
5.5 PhotostabilityofWool 145
5.5.1 MechanismofWoolPhotoyellowing 148
5.5.2 MechanismofPhotoyellowingofFluorescentWhitenedWool 149
5.5.3 MethodsforImprovingPhotostability 151
References 153
viii Contents
6 Wool-dyeingMachinery 157
JamieA.HawkesandPaulHamilton
6.1 Introduction 157
6.2 TopDyeing 158
6.2.1 Longclose(UK)LargeBumpTops 160
6.2.2 ObemBigForm 161
6.2.3 VigoreuxPrinting 161
6.3 LooseStockDyeing 162
6.3.1 ContinuousDyeingofLooseStock 165
6.4 Hank-DyeingYarn 166
6.4.1 CarpetYarn 166
6.4.2 Hand-KnittingandMachine-KnittingYarn 167
6.4.3 RoboticHandling 169
6.4.4 SpaceDyeingofYarn 169
6.5 YarnPackageDyeing 171
6.5.1 PackagePreparation 172
6.5.2 Machinery 175
6.6 PieceDyeing 178
6.6.1 JetandOverflowDyeing 178
6.6.2 BeamDyeing 179
6.7 GarmentDyeing 179
6.8 CarpetPieceDyeing 182
6.9 Drying 183
6.9.1 MechanicalMoistureRemoval 183
6.9.2 ThermalMoistureRemoval 184
6.10 DyehouseAutomation 186
6.10.1 DyehouseControlSystems 186
6.10.2 FactoryManagementSystems 188
6.10.3 ProcessControl 188
6.10.4 EffluentControlSystems 190
6.10.5 ColourMeasurement 191
6.11 LaboratoryDyeing 192
6.11.1 Tops,LooseStock,HanksandPackageYarn 193
6.11.2 PieceDyeing 198
6.11.3 GarmentDyeing 201
6.11.4 LaboratoryMachineControlSystems 202
References 203
7 DyeingWoolwithAcidandMordantDyes 205
PeterA.Duffield
7.1 Introduction 205
7.2 AcidDyes 208
7.2.1 AcidDyeSubclassification 208
7.2.2 OptimisedDyeRanges 213
7.3 NaturalDyes 213