The Barbecue! Bible: 10th Anniversary Edition

575 Pages·2008·34.825 MB·English

by  Fink, Ben, Raichlen, Steven

THE
BB AA RR BBEECC
UU
EE!!
B
IBLE
BBBBQQBBiibbllee__0000 FFMM 44tthh bblluu..iinndddd ii 44//11//0088 1100::5555::0077 AAMM
This page intentionally left blank
TH E
B
IBLE
STEVEN RAICHLEN
BY
PHOTOGRAPHY BY BEN FINK
WORKMAN PUBLISHING (cid:129) NEW YORK
BBBBQQBBiibbllee__0000 FFMM 44tthh bblluu..iinndddd iiiiii 44//11//0088 1100::5555::0088 AAMM
Every family needs
Copyright © 1998, 2008 by Steven Raichlen a patriarch.
Interior © photographs copyright © 2008 by Ben Fink
Ours was
All rights reserved. No portion of this book may be
reproduced—mechanically, electronically, or by any other my grandfather, Dear.
means, including photocopying—without written permission
of the publisher. Published simultaneously in Canada by
Thomas Allen & Son Limited.
This book is dedicated
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data is available.
in loving memory
ISBN: 978-0-7611-4943-9 (pb)
ISBN: 978-0-7611-4944-6 (hc)
to Samuel Israel
Cover design by David Matt Raichlen.
Book design by Lisa Hollander
Photography by Ben Fink
Food stylist: Jamie Kimm
Prop stylist: Roy Finamore
Front Cover: author photo © Fernando Diez; center image ©
Willie Nash/Getty Images; fish © Lew Robertson/Jupiterimages;
quesadillas, sauces, corn © Ben Fink; wood © Dorling Kindersley/
Getty Images; ginger and spices © Feiler Fotodesign/Alamy
Images; all other photographs © Greg Schneider. Back Cover:
top © James Baigrie/Getty Images; middle © Ben Fink; lower ©
Greg Schneider
Workman books are available at special discounts when
purchased in bulk for premiums and sales promotions as
well as for fund-raising or educational use. Special editions
or book excerpts can be created to specification. For details,
contact the Special Sales Director at the address below.
Workman Publishing Company, Inc.
225 Varick Street
New York, NY 10014-4381
First printing April 2008
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2
IV
BBBBQQBBiibbllee__0000 FFMM 44tthh bblluu..iinndddd iivv 44//11//0088 1100::5555::0099 AAMM
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
MANY THANKS
T
he most gratifying part of writing any book is thanking the people
who helped make it possible. The Barbecue! Bible involved a pro-
verbial cast of thousands.
First and foremost, I thank my wife, Barbara, Special thanks to Niman Ranch for their
who brought me to an environment where I could generous contribution of some of the best meats
grill all year round (Miami), accompanied me on available. Their beautiful cuts helped make my
much of the world’s barbecue trail, and relived it in recipes look delicious as well as taste great. To
a three-year frenzy of recipe testing in our backyard. order directly from them, visit their website: www
Barb, you’re the best. .nimanranch.com.
Next, I want to thank my indefatigable assistant, I was also assisted by a great staff of recipe
Nancy Loseke, and the whole crew at or directed by testers, including Elida Proenza and Roger Thrailkill.
the people at Workman Publishing. Boris Djokic kept the computers humming and offered
Peter Workman encouraged me to expand my insight into the grilling of his native Yugoslavia, and
original and rather modest proposal into a book of my cousin David Raichlen helped with the anthropo-
biblical proportions. Words simply aren’t adequate, logical research. While I was writing this book, my
to thank my editor, Suzanne Rafer, who patiently stepson Jake became a chef, and my stepdaughter
wrestled a manuscript of more than two thousand Betsy became a dietitian. This is a very handy thing
pages into a book that actually fit between two cov- to have happen when you’re developing recipes
ers, working with unwavering diligence, dedication, for a cookbook the size of this one. Jake traded his
and verve to meet an impossible deadline. It’s easy sushi knife for grill tongs and immersed himself in
to see why authors would kill to work with her. the world of smoke and fire. Betsy, and her husband,
Then, too, there’s the amazing Barbara Mateer Gabriel Berthin, kept me nutritionally correct and up
(may I call you “Hawkeye”?), who spearheaded to speed on Andean grilling. I’d like to thank my col-
the revision with her customary thoroughness leagues and fellow cookbook authors—both in the
and good humor; the creative David Matt, who United States and abroad—for sharing their enor-
designed the lively cover of the revised edition; the mous expertise (and their favorite barbecue joints):
prodigious Lisa Hollander, designer of the interior Burton Anderson, Najmieh Batmanglij, Giuliano
pages assisted by Carolyn Casey; crackerjack photo Bugialli, Darra Goldstein, Jessica Harris, Madhur
editor, Anne Kerman; the unerring photographer, Jaffrey, Patsy Jamieson, Nancy Harmon Jenkins,
Ben Fink, assisted by food stylist Jamie Kimm, and Elizabeth Karmel, John Mariani, Joan Nathan, David
prop stylist Roy Finamore; and Cathy Dorsey, whose Rosengarten, Nicole Routhier, Julie Sahni, Mimi
index made sense of it all. Sheraton, Nina Simonds, Anya Von Bremsen, Patricia
It is always a pleasure to work with Workman Wells, and Anne Willan.
publicists Ron Longe and Jen Pare Neugeboren, and I had a lot of great chefs in my court for this
the irrepressible Susan Schwartzman. As always, project, too. The short list would include Rick
thanks go to Jenny Mandel, Pat Upton, Walter Bayless, Alain Ducasse, George Germon, Vinod
Weintz, David Schiller, and all my other colleagues Kapor, Johanne Killeen, Emeril Lagasse, Mark Miller,
at Workman. Mark Militello, Stephan Pyles, Charlie Trotter, and,
V
BBBBQQBBiibbllee__0000 FFMM 44tthh bblluu..iinndddd vv 44//11//0088 1100::5555::0099 AAMM
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
of course, Chris Schlesinger (who brought grilling into INDONESIA: Fauzi Bowo, Madi Chusnun, and Yuni Syafril of
the twenty-first century). Don Hysko, formerly of Peoples the Indonesia Tourist Promotion Office; William W. Wongso
Woods, educated me on the fine points of grilling with natural of the William F & B Management Co. in Jakarta.
wood and charwood.
ISRAEL: Don Weitz of the Israeli Government Tourist Office;
I’d also like to thank my friends at Weber-Stephen
Ehud Yonay of Greater Galilee Gourmet, Inc.
Products Co., first for sharing their expertise with me (not
to mention the opportunity to experience sub-zero grilling ITALY: Juliet Cruz of the Italian Trade Commission; Maria and
at their proving grounds in Palatine, Illinois, in the middle of Angelo Leocastre of the Villa Roncalli in Foligno.
winter): Jim Stephen, Mike Kempster Sr., Tom Wenke, Keith
JAMAICA: Patricia Hannan and Jackie Murray of the Jamaica
Wesol, Edna Schlosser, and the inimitable Sherry Bale.
Tourist Board; Winston Stonar of Busha Browne’s Company,
A big thanks to three special friends: Kathleen Cornelia,
Ltd.
Katherine Kenny, and the late Milton Eber.
In researching this book, I had the help of hundreds of JAPAN: Eriko Kawaguchi, M. B. Maslowski, Osamu Akiyama,
tourism officials and barbecue buffs both in the United States and Nobuko Misawa of the Japan National Tourist
and abroad. I could never thank all the people who helped Organization; Lucy Seligman, editor of the Gochiso-sama.
me, but I’d like to acknowledge as many as I can.
KOREA: Sang-hoon Rah, Sean Nelan, and Peter Jang of the
ARGENTINA: Eduardo Piva, Enrique Capozzolo, and Gloria Korea National Tourism Corporation; Mr. Park of Samwon
Pacheca of the Argentina National Tourist Office. Garden.
AUSTRALIA: Peter Hackworth of the Chili Queens and New MACAO: Eric L. Chen of the Government Tourist Office in
York Latin restaurant in Brisbane. Macao.
AZERBAIJAN: Peter Richards of the Hyatt Regency Baku. MALAYSIA: Azizah Aziz of Tourism Malaysia.
BRAZIL: Sara Widness of Kaufman Widness Communications; MEXICO: Lori Jones and Patricia Echenique of the Mexican
Marius Fontena of Churrascaria Marius; Yara Castro Roberts Tourism Board; Tom Fisher and Alina Gambor of Burson
and Belita Castro. Marsteller; Jesus Arroyo Bergeyre of Arroy Restaurantes.
CHINA/HONG KONG: Trina Dingler Ebert of Aman Resorts in MONACO: Emmanuelle Perrier of the Monaco Tourism
Hong Kong; Angela Herndon of Lou Hammond & Associates; Bureau.
Margaret Sheriden, formerly of the South China Morning
MOROCCO: Pamela Windo (friend and guide extraordinaire).
Post.
REPUBLIC OF GEORGIA: My e-mail pal Betsy Haskell of
CURAÇAO: Traci La Rosa and Mark Walsh of Peter Martin
Betsy’s Hotel in Tbilisi.
Associates, Inc.; the Curaçao Tourist Development Bureau.
SINGAPORE: Mak Ying Kwan and Faizah Hanim Ahmad of the
FRANCE: Marion Fourestier and Robin Massee of the French
Singapore Tourist Promotion Board.
Government Tourist Office.
SOUTH AFRICA: Heather Kowadla and Laura Morrill of
FRENCH WEST INDIES: Myron Clement and Joe Petrocik of
Lou Hammond & Associates; Christina Martin of the
Clement-Petrocik Co.; the French West Indies Tourist Board;
Christina Martin School of Food & Wine in KuaZulu Natal;
my friend Eric Troncani of the Carl Gustaf Hotel.
Alicia Wilkinson of the Silwood Kitchen Cookery School in
INDIA: T. Balakrishnan, Y. K. Jain, Seema Schahi of the Capetown.
Indian Goverment Tourist Office; Chef Manjit S. Gill of the
SPAIN: Alejandro Gomez Marco and Maria Luisa Albacar of
Welcomgroup; chefs Nakkul Anand, Geeta Kranhke, Shishir
the Oficina Española de Turismo; Ana Rodriguez of the Hotel
Baijal, Gev Desai, and J. P. Singh of the Maurya Sheraton
Ritz in Madrid.
Hotel & Towers in New Delhi; chefs Mohamed Farooq and
Amitabh Devendra at the Mughal Sheraton in Agra; chefs THAILAND: Kim Vacher-Ta of Tourism Authority of Thailand;
Manu Mehta and Nisar Waris of the Rajputana Palace Phenkhae Chattanont of the Oriental Bangkok Hotel; Ann
Sheraton in Jaipur. Laschever of Lou Hammond and Associates.
VI
BBBBQQBBiibbllee__0000 FFMM 44tthh bblluu..iinndddd vvii 44//11//0088 1100::5555::0099 AAMM
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
TRINIDAD: Michael De Peaza, Nancy Pierre, and Tony Poyer VIETNAM: Trai Thi Duong of the Truc Orient Express and
of the Trinidad Tourism Development Bureau. Binh Van Duong of Le Truc.
TURKEY: Murat Barlas and Ayfer Unsal; Mustafa Siyahhan
Finally, a huge thanks to all the grill jockeys and pit
of the Turkish Tourist Office in Washington, D.C.; Mehmet
bosses—both named in this book and unnamed—for sharing
Dogan of the Tourism Office in Gaziantep.
with me their skills, knowledge, time, food, and unbridled
UNITED STATES: Karen Adler of Pig Out Publications, Inc.; passion for grilling. Barbecue buffs have a reputation for
Judith Fertig, Danny Edwards of Little Jake’s Eat It and Beat It, secrecy, but everywhere I went, people welcomed me into
and Lindsey Shannon of BB’s Lawnside in Kansas City; Mike their hearts and their kitchens. I thank them for three and a
Alexander and Mike DeMaster of Sonny Bryan’s in Dallas; Roy half extraordinary years on the barbecue trail.
and Jane Barber and Barry Maxwell of the Memphis in May
International Festival, Inc.
URUGUAY: Alexis Parodi of the Ministerio de Turismo del
Uruguay.
VII
BBBBQQBBiibbllee__0000 FFMM 44tthh bblluu..iinndddd vviiii 44//11//0088 1100::5555::1100 AAMM
C ONTENTS
Seafood . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .44
Vegetarian Food on the Grill . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .46
Vegetables . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .46
Oddballs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .47
Preface to the New Edition:
Seasoning and Sauces . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .47
More Great Grilling . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .xii
Now You’re Smoking. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .49
Introduction:
Three Years on the Barbecue Trail . . . . . . . . . . . . . xiii
CHAPTER 2
THIRST QUENCHERS
CHAPTER 1
GRILLING BASICS:
PAGE 53
ANSWERS TO FREQUENTLY C
ooking over a hot grill can work up a powerful thirst, and
ASKED QUESTIONS pit masters world-wide know that there are more ways to
quench it than with beer. Here, then, is a mix of coolers—with
and without alcohol—to accompany any barbecue.
PAGE 1
E Leaded . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .54
verything you need to know in order to grill and
barbecue like a pro—in no time flat. How to master Unleaded . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .61
direct and indirect grilling; pit barbecuing; grilling The Afghan Grill . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .64
on a rotisserie; and grilling without a grate. What to look for
in equipment; how to buy the right fuel, how to light it, and CHAPTER 3
WARM-UPS
how to keep it lit. Plus the scoop on accessories.
The Grilling Process . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1
The Grills . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5
PAGE 67
The Fuels . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11 S
et your barbecue off to the happiest start with a selec-
Setting Up the Grill . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15
tion of appetizing openers: Silver Paper Chicken, Honey-
Grilling with Charcoal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15 Glazed Hong Kong Wings, Shrimp Mousse on Sugar cane. Or
Cooking with Gas. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20 how about a smoky Grilled Corn Chowder? They’re all so
good they taste like the main event themselves.
Cooking Satés . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23
Smoking . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24 The Vietnamese Grill . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .72
Grilling Indoors . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26 Stalking the Elusive Grilled Snail . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .83
Grilling Over a Campfire . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26
PAGE 86
Grill Maintenance and Cleaning . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .28
Gearing Up . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .29
The Food . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .31
Testing for Doneness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .31
Beef . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32
Pork . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .37
Game and “Exotic” Meats . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40
Burgers and Sausages . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .41
Chicken . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42
VIII
BBBBQQBBiibbllee__0000 FFMM 44tthh bblluu..iinndddd vviiiiii 44//11//0088 1100::5555::1100 AAMM
CONTENTS
CHAP TER 4
BLAZING SALADS PAGE 194
PAGE 95
S
alads play two roles in the world of barbecue. Some,
like Grilled Vegetable Caponata and Grilled Pork with a
Sweet-Tart Dressing, are themselves grilled dishes. Others
set off a grilled dish perfectly. You need go no farther than
this chapter to enjoy both kinds.
On the Grill . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .96
A Tale of Three Barbecues: The Thai Grill . . . . . . . . .100
On the Side . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .110
CHAP TER 5
GRILLED BREAD
Feast on Pork with Moorish Seasonings, Sweet & Garlicky
Pork Chops, or finger-licking Memphis-Style Ribs.
PAGE 125
F Jerk: The Jamaican Barbecue . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .184
rom irresistible Grilled Garlic Bread Fingers to Catalan
Tomato Bread to from-scratch Tandoori-Baked Flat
Breads—whether ready-made or homemade, the grill gives CHAP TER 8
A LITTLE LAMB
bread unmatched flavor and crispness.
CHAP TER 6
WHATS YOUR BEEF? PAGE 199
S
o many of the world’s barbecuers love to grill lamb that
it’s no wonder the selection of dishes is outstanding.
PAGE 135
Try Cape Town Lamb from South Africa, “Onion Water”
T
exas-Style Barbecued Brisket and Brazilian Stuffed Rib Lamb Chops from Afghanistan, and The Real Turkish
Roast; Florentine-Style Steak and Bengali Shish Kebabs; Shish Kebab from Turkey (of course!).
Saigon Market Beef Sticks and Korean Grilled Short Ribs.
A Traditional Barbacoa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .200
Beef on the grill—savory, succulent, sensational—a perfect
The Moroccan Grill . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .216
match of food and fire.
In Pursuit of the Best Tuscan Steak . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .148
CHAP TER 9
Matambre: A Hunger-Killer from South America . . . . . . .152 GROUND MEAT, BURGERS
Argentinean Roots . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .153
& SAUSAGES
The Argentinean Grill . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .154
Hawkers’ Centers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .162
PAGE 223
CHAP TER 7
HIGH ON HOG T
he U.S. might have the best burgers, but wait till you taste
the ground meat concoctions the rest of the world has
to offer—Indonesian Flying Fox Satés, Oasis Kebabs from
PAGE 173
the Middle East, The Original Karim’s Seekh Kebab from
T
ime to go whole hog! Cook up the tenderest North Carolina India—proving that the appeal of flavorful ground meat is
Pulled Pork or fieriest Jamaican Jerk Pork Tenderloin. universal.
IX
BBBBQQBBiibbllee__0000 FFMM 55tthh bblluu..iinndddd iixx 44//66//0088 99::4499::0011 AAMM