The barbecue! bible 10th anniversary edition

552 Pages·2008·13 MB·English

by  Raichlen

THE BARBECUE! BIBLE
BY STEVEN RAICHLEN
PHOTOGRAPHY BY BEN FINK
WORKMAN PUBLISHING • NEW YORK
Copyright © 1998, 2008 by Steven Raichlen
Interior © photographs copyright © 2008 by Ben Fink
All rights reserved. No portion of this book may be reproduced—mechanically, electronically, or by any other means, including photocopying—
without written permission of the publisher. Published simultaneously in Canada by Thomas Allen & Son Limited.
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data is available.
eISBN: 9780761159575
Cover design by David Matt
Photography by Ben Fink
Food stylist: Jamie Kimm
Prop stylist: Roy Finamore
Front Cover: author photo © Fernando Diez; center image © Willie Nash/Getty Images; fish © Lew Robertson/Jupiterimages; quesadillas,
sauces, corn © Ben Fink; wood © Dorling Kindersley/Getty Images; ginger and spices © Feiler Fotodesign/Alamy Images; all other photographs
© Greg Schneider. Back Cover: top © James Baigrie/Getty Images; middle © Ben Fink; lower © Greg Schneider
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Every family needs a patriarch. Ours was my grandfather, Dear.
This book is dedicated in loving memory to Samuel Israel Raichlen.
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
MANY THANKS
The most gratifying part of writing any book is thanking the people who helped make it possible. The Barbecue! Bible involved a
proverbial cast of thousands.
First and foremost, I thank my wife, Barbara, who brought me to an environment where I could grill all year round (Miami), accompanied me on
much of the world’s barbecue trail, and relived it in a three-year frenzy of recipe testing in our backyard. Barb, you’re the best.
Next, I want to thank my indefatigable assistant, Nancy Loseke, and the whole crew at or directed by the people at Workman Publishing.
Peter Workman encouraged me to expand my original and rather modest proposal into a book of biblical proportions. Words simply aren’t
adequate, to thank my editor, Suzanne Rafer, who patiently wrestled a manuscript of more than two thousand pages into a book that actually fit
between two covers, working with unwavering diligence, dedication, and verve to meet an impossible deadline. It’s easy to see why authors would
kill to work with her.
Then, too, there’s the amazing Barbara Mateer (may I call you “Hawkeye”?), who spearheaded the revision with her customary thoroughness and
good humor; the creative David Matt, who designed the lively cover of the revised edition; the prodigious Lisa Hollander, designer of the interior
pages assisted by Carolyn Casey; crackerjack photo editor, Anne Kerman; the unerring photographer, Ben Fink, assisted by food stylist Jamie
Kimm, and prop stylist Roy Finamore; and Cathy Dorsey, whose index made sense of it all.
It is always a pleasure to work with Workman publicists Ron Longe and Jen Pare Neugeboren, and the irrepressible Susan Schwartzman. As
always, thanks go to Jenny Mandel, Pat Upton, Walter Weintz, David Schiller, and all my other colleagues at Workman.
Special thanks to Niman Ranch for their generous contribution of some of the best meats available. Their beautiful cuts helped make my recipes
look delicious as well as taste great. To order directly from them, visit their website: www.nimanranch.com.
I was also assisted by a great staff of recipe testers, including Elida Proenza and Roger Thrailkill. Boris Djokic kept the computers humming and
offered insight into the grilling of his native Yugoslavia, and my cousin David Raichlen helped with the anthropological research. While I was writing
this book, my stepson Jake became a chef, and my stepdaughter Betsy became a dietitian. This is a very handy thing to have happen when you’re
developing recipes for a cookbook the size of this one. Jake traded his sushi knife for grill tongs and immersed himself in the world of smoke and
fire. Betsy, and her husband, Gabriel Berthin, kept me nutritionally correct and up to speed on Andean grilling. I’d like to thank my colleagues and
fellow cookbook authors—both in the United States and abroad—for sharing their enormous expertise (and their favorite barbecue joints): Burton
Anderson, Najmieh Batmanglij, Giuliano Bugialli, Darra Goldstein, Jessica Harris, Madhur Jaffrey, Patsy Jamieson, Nancy Harmon Jenkins,
Elizabeth Karmel, John Mariani, Joan Nathan, David Rosengarten, Nicole Routhier, Julie Sahni, Mimi Sheraton, Nina Simonds, Anya Von
Bremsen, Patricia Wells, and Anne Willan.
I had a lot of great chefs in my court for this project, too. The short list would include Rick Bayless, Alain Ducasse, George Germon, Vinod Kapor,
Johanne Killeen, Emeril Lagasse, Mark Miller, Mark Militello, Stephan Pyles, Charlie Trotter, and, of course, Chris Schlesinger (who brought grilling
into the twenty-first century). Don Hysko, formerly of Peoples Woods, educated me on the fine points of grilling with natural wood and charwood.
I’d also like to thank my friends at Weber-Stephen Products Co., first for sharing their expertise with me (not to mention the opportunity to
experience sub-zero grilling at their proving grounds in Palatine, Illinois, in the middle of winter): Jim Stephen, Mike Kempster Sr., Tom Wenke,
Keith Wesol, Edna Schlosser, and the inimitable Sherry Bale.
A big thanks to three special friends: Kathleen Cornelia, Katherine Kenny, and the late Milton Eber.
In researching this book, I had the help of hundreds of tourism officials and barbecue buffs both in the United States and abroad. I could never
thank all the people who helped me, but I’d like to acknowledge as many as I can.
ARGENTINA: Eduardo Piva, Enrique Capozzolo, and Gloria Pacheca of the Argentina National Tourist Office.
AUSTRALIA: Peter Hackworth of the Chili Queens and New York Latin restaurant in Brisbane.
AZERBAIJAN: Peter Richards of the Hyatt Regency Baku.
BRAZIL: Sara Widness of Kaufman Widness Communications; Marius Fontena of Churrascaria Marius; Yara Castro Roberts and Belita Castro.
CHINA/HONG KONG: Trina Dingler Ebert of Aman Resorts in Hong Kong; Angela Herndon of Lou Hammond & Associates; Margaret Sheriden,
formerly of the South China Morning Post.
CURAÇAO: Traci La Rosa and Mark Walsh of Peter Martin Associates, Inc.; the Curaçao Tourist Development Bureau.
FRANCE: Marion Fourestier and Robin Massee of the French Government Tourist Office.
FRENCH WEST INDIES: Myron Clement and Joe Petrocik of Clement-Petrocik Co.; the French West Indies Tourist Board; my friend Eric Troncani
of the Carl Gustaf Hotel.
INDIA: T. Balakrishnan, Y. K. Jain, Seema Schahi of the Indian Goverment Tourist Office; Chef Manjit S. Gill of the Welcomgroup; chefs Nakkul
Anand, Geeta Kranhke, Shishir Baijal, Gev Desai, and J. P. Singh of the Maurya Sheraton Hotel & Towers in New Delhi; chefs Mohamed Farooq
and Amitabh Devendra at the Mughal Sheraton in Agra; chefs Manu Mehta and Nisar Waris of the Rajputana Palace Sheraton in Jaipur.
INDONESIA: Fauzi Bowo, Madi Chusnun, and Yuni Syafril of the Indonesia Tourist Promotion Office; William W. Wongso of the William F & B
Management Co. in Jakarta.
ISRAEL: Don Weitz of the Israeli Government Tourist Office; Ehud Yonay of Greater Galilee Gourmet, Inc.
ITALY: Juliet Cruz of the Italian Trade Commission; Maria and Angelo Leocastre of the Villa Roncalli in Foligno.
JAMAICA: Patricia Hannan and Jackie Murray of the Jamaica Tourist Board; Winston Stonar of Busha Browne’s Company, Ltd.
JAPAN: Eriko Kawaguchi, M. B. Maslowski, Osamu Akiyama, and Nobuko Misawa of the Japan National Tourist Organization; Lucy Seligman,
editor of the Gochiso-sama.
KOREA: Sang-hoon Rah, Sean Nelan, and Peter Jang of the Korea National Tourism Corporation; Mr. Park of Samwon Garden.
MACAO: Eric L. Chen of the Government Tourist Office in Macao.
MALAYSIA: Azizah Aziz of Tourism Malaysia.
MEXICO: Lori Jones and Patricia Echenique of the Mexican Tourism Board; Tom Fisher and Alina Gambor of Burson Marsteller; Jesus Arroyo
Bergeyre of Arroy Restaurantes.
MONACO: Emmanuelle Perrier of the Monaco Tourism Bureau.
MOROCCO: Pamela Windo (friend and guide extraordinaire).
REPUBLIC OF GEORGIA: My e-mail pal Betsy Haskell of Betsy’s Hotel in Tbilisi.
SINGAPORE: Mak Ying Kwan and Faizah Hanim Ahmad of the Singapore Tourist Promotion Board.
SOUTH AFRICA: Heather Kowadla and Laura Morrill of Lou Hammond & Associates; Christina Martin of the Christina Martin School of Food &
Wine in KuaZulu Natal; Alicia Wilkinson of the Silwood Kitchen Cookery School in Capetown.
SPAIN: Alejandro Gomez Marco and Maria Luisa Albacar of the Oficina Española de Turismo; Ana Rodriguez of the Hotel Ritz in Madrid.
THAILAND: Kim Vacher-Ta of Tourism Authority of Thailand; Phenkhae Chattanont of the Oriental Bangkok Hotel; Ann Laschever of Lou Hammond
and Associates.
TRINIDAD: Michael De Peaza, Nancy Pierre, and Tony Poyer of the Trinidad Tourism Development Bureau.
TURKEY: Murat Barlas and Ayfer Unsal; Mustafa Siyahhan of the Turkish Tourist Office in Washington, D.C.; Mehmet Dogan of the Tourism Office
in Gaziantep.
UNITED STATES: Karen Adler of Pig Out Publications, Inc.; Judith Fertig, Danny Edwards of Little Jake’s Eat It and Beat It, and Lindsey Shannon
of BB’s Lawnside in Kansas City; Mike Alexander and Mike DeMaster of Sonny Bryan’s in Dallas; Roy and Jane Barber and Barry Maxwell of the
Memphis in May International Festival, Inc.
URUGUAY: Alexis Parodi of the Ministerio de Turismo del Uruguay.
VIETNAM: Trai Thi Duong of the Truc Orient Express and Binh Van Duong of Le Truc.
Finally, a huge thanks to all the grill jockeys and pit bosses—both named in this book and unnamed—for sharing with me their skills, knowledge,
time, food, and unbridled passion for grilling. Barbecue buffs have a reputation for secrecy, but everywhere I went, people welcomed me into their
hearts and their kitchens. I thank them for three and a half extraordinary years on the barbecue trail.
CONTENTS
Preface to the New Edition: More Great Grilling
Introduction: Three Years on the Barbecue Trail
CHAPTER 1
GRILLING BASICS:
ANSWERS TO FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS
PAGE 1
Everything you need to know in order to grill and barbecue like a pro—in no time flat. How to master direct and indirect grilling; pit barbecuing;
grilling on a rotisserie; and grilling without a grate. What to look for in equipment; how to buy the right fuel, how to light it, and how to keep it lit. Plus
the scoop on accessories.
The Grilling Process
The Grills
The Fuels
Setting Up the Grill
Grilling with Charcoal
Cooking with Gas
Cooking Satés
Smoking
Grilling Indoors
Grilling Over a Campfire
Grill Maintenance and Cleaning
Gearing Up
The Food
Testing for Doneness
Beef
Pork
Game and “Exotic” Meats
Burgers and Sausages
Chicken
Seafood
Vegetarian Food on the Grill
Vegetables
Oddballs
Seasoning and Sauces
Now You’re Smoking
CHAPTER 2
THIRST QUENCHERS
PAGE 53
Cooking over a hot grill can work up a powerful thirst, and pit masters world-wide know that there are more ways to quench it than with beer. Here,
then, is a mix of coolers—with and without alcohol—to accompany any barbecue.
Leaded
Unleaded
The Afghan Grill
CHAPTER 3
WARM-UPS
PAGE 67
Set your barbecue off to the happiest start with a selection of appetizing openers: Silver Paper Chicken, Honey-Glazed Hong Kong Wings, Shrimp
Mousse on Sugarcane. Or how about a smoky Grilled Corn Chowder? They’re all so good they taste like the main event themselves.
The Vietnamese Grill
Stalking the Elusive Grilled Snail
PAGE 86
CHAPTER 4
BLAZING SALADS
PAGE 95
Salads play two roles in the world of barbecue. Some, like Grilled Vegetable Caponata and Grilled Pork with a Sweet-Tart Dressing, are
themselves grilled dishes. Others set off a grilled dish perfectly. You need go no farther than this chapter to enjoy both kinds.
On the Grill
A Tale of Three Barbecues: The Thai Grill
On the Side
CHAPTER 5
GRILLED BREAD
PAGE 125
From irresistible Grilled Garlic Bread Fingers to Catalan Tomato Bread to from-scratch Tandoori-Baked Flat Breads—whether ready-made or
homemade, the grill gives bread unmatched flavor and crispness.
CHAPTER 6
WHATS YOUR BEEF?
PAGE 135
Texas-Style Barbecued Brisket and Brazilian Stuffed Rib Roast; Florentine-Style Steak and Bengali Shish Kebabs; Saigon Market Beef Sticks
and Korean Grilled Short Ribs. Beef on the grill—savory, succulent, sensational—a perfect match of food and fire.
In Pursuit of the Best Tuscan Steak
Matambre: A Hunger-Killer from South America
Argentinean Roots
The Argentinean Grill
Hawkers’ Centers
CHAPTER 7
HIGH ON HOG
PAGE 173
Time to go whole hog! Cook up the tenderest North Carolina Pulled Pork or fieriest Jamaican Jerk Pork Tenderloin.
PAGE 194
Feast on Pork with Moorish Seasonings, Sweet & Garlicky Pork Chops, or finger-licking Memphis-Style Ribs.
Jerk: The Jamaican Barbecue
CHAPTER 8
A LITTLE LAMB
PAGE 199
So many of the world’s barbecuers love to grill lamb that it’s no wonder the selection of dishes is outstanding. Try Cape Town Lamb from South
Africa, “Onion Water” Lamb Chops from Afghanistan, and The Real Turkish Shish Kebab from Turkey (of course!).
A Traditional Barbacoa
The Moroccan Grill
CHAPTER 9
GROUND MEAT, BURGERS & SAUSAGES
PAGE 223
The U.S. might have the best burgers, but wait till you taste the ground meat concoctions the rest of the world has to offer—Indonesian Flying Fox
Satés, Oasis Kebabs from the Middle East, The Original Karim’s Seekh Kebab from India—proving that the appeal of flavorful ground meat is
universal.
From Hamburg to Hoboken: A Brief History of the Hamburger
Of Koftas, Lyulyas, and Seekh Kebabs
The Turkish Grill
CHAPTER 10
BIRD MEETS GRILL
PAGE 255
The world loves a great grilled chicken, and here are the recipes to help you achieve greatness: Chicken Satés Served in Lettuce Leaves, Sea
Captain’s Chicken Tikka, and Bahamian Grilled Chicken, to name a few. But don’t overlook other birds that cook up deliciously on the grill, as well
—check out the recipes for quail, duck, and turkey.
The Splendid Restaurant Karim
Uruguay’s Mercado del Puerto
The Macanese Grill
CHAPTER 11
WATER MEETS FIRE:
FISH ON THE GRILL
PAGE 303
Fresh fish, perfectly grilled, is spectacularly succulent. Don’t miss Whole Grilled Snapper with South African Spices, Grilled Sea Bass with Fresh
Artichoke Salad, Grilled Salmon Kiev, and Grilled Sole with Catalan Fruits & Nuts.
A New French Paradox
The Most Famous Fish House in Indonesia
On Trinidad’s Shark and Bake
CHAPTER 12
HOT SHELLS:
LOBSTER, SHRIMP, SCALLOPS, AND CLAMS
PAGE 353
Grilled Spiny Lobster with Basil Butter, Scallop Kebabs with Pancetta, Lemon, and Basil, Oysters with Horseradish Cream, and enough shrimp
recipes to keep the barbie fired up for weeks. Here is shellfish at its best!
The Brazilian Grill
PAGE 367
CHAPTER 13
VEGETARIAN GRILL
PAGE 381
No longer only just for meat-eaters, now you can serve up a complete range of vegetarian dishes at a barbecue, including The Original Grilled
Pizza, exotic Tabdoori Peppers, a lush Provençal Dagwood, and steak-like Grilled Portobello Mushroom Sandwiches with Basil Aioli.
The Indian Grill
CHAPTER 14
VEGETABLES:
GREENS MEET GRILL
PAGE 395
There is probably no better way to heighten the natural flavor of a vegetable than by grilling. Proof is no farther away than Georgian Vegetable
Kebabs, Catalan Grilled Artichokes, Argentinean Grilled Eggplant, Chorizo Grilled Mushrooms, and wonderfully warming Grilled Sweet Potatoes
with Sesame Dipping Sauce.
The Japanese Grill
CHAPTER 15
RICE, BEANS, AND BEYOND
PAGE 423
Most of the world’s great grilled dishes are accompanied by flavorfully prepared grains and beans. Dig into Persian-Style Steamed Rice and Quick
and Smoky Baked Beans. And for something less expected, how about a Yorkshire Pudding on the Grill?
The Persian Grill: A Day with Najmieh Batmanglij
CHAPTER 16
SIDEKICKS:
PICKLES, RELISHES, SALSAS, AND SLAWS
PAGE 441
Bring on the condiments—those savory, fiery, sweet, and utterly satisfying go-withs that dress up any barbecue. Central Asian Pickles, Onion
Relish with Pomegranate Molasses, Pineapple Chutney, “Dog’s Snout” Salsa, and Tomato Peanut Sambal will add pizzazz to even the simplest
grilled chicken, steak, or fish.
Stuck on Saté: The Indonesian Grill
CHAPTER 17
SAUCES
PAGE 463
All great pit masters are judged on their barbecue sauces and you’ll match the best of them with this far-reaching collection. From a sweet-sour
Basic Barbecue Sauce to a contemporary Ginger-Plum Barbecue Sauce to a mouth-scorching Portuguese Piri-Piri, there are plenty to match any
grilled dish.
The Four Styles of an American Barbecue
CHAPTER 18
RUB IT IN
PAGE 489
Memphis Rub and Indian Roasted Spice Powder; Mexican Smoked Chile Marinade and Teriyaki Marinade; Roquefort Butter, Ketjap Butter, and
Bourbon Butter Basting Sauce. A full selection of rubs, marinades, butters, and bastes add zip to even the simplest fare.
Barbecue Alley: The Mexican Grill
CHAPTER 19
FIRE AND ICE:
DESSERTS
PAGE 511
No great barbecue is complete without a great dessert. Whether you end with a final flourish on the grill or with a luscious frozen dessert, you won’t
go wrong. Don’t forget to leave room for Fire-Roasted Apples, Balinese Grilled Bananas in Coconut Milk Caramel, Persian Lemon and Rose
Water “Sundae” with Sour Cherry Syrup, and Coconut Ice Cream.
Barbecue from the Land of Morning Calm: The Korean Grill
PAGE 511
Metric Conversion Charts
Glossary of Special Ingredients
Index