The art of Making Leather cases

128 Pages·1983·54.04 MB·English

by  Al Stohlman

The ART of Volume ™® “ee ;

aking ——--
RATNER CASES

AuSToHLMAN
ALL OF THE CASES IN THIS BOOK ARE COMPLETELY HAND SEWN

[A SPECIAL THANKS to my wife, Ann, for all the help in making this book.
possible. She has sown all of the projects in thie book where handstitching and
Bockstitching atsembly was required. -ineluding the handsewing of all of the
Zipper installations. She ha also carved and dyed many of the decoretive designs.

When sewing large projects, itis often impossible or impractial to put them in
the stitching horse, One should then got a5 comfortable as possible and hold the

ct between the legs as shown i the photo above. Use any aids at your
isposal to make the job as easy as possible. Often times stuffing the case ful of
‘towels (or other soft material) alds im holding its shape while sewing

If sewing machines are available, by all means use
them wheraver you can if they will do the job. All
ff our sewing is by hand to ensure the finest,
jongest. construction possible. . as well as
professional appearance. ‘This also ilustrates that
without the
FOREWORD

VOLUME TWO Ithis book) is # continuation of Volume ONE. .."The Art of Making Leather Cases”, This volume
will expand your cate making knowlodg, There are so many different styles end types of leather cases that we
annat get them all within the covers of one, twa, or perhape aven thrae volumes. Therefore, wo will have te
‘devote ‘ture Volumes on this subject to cover such items as: guitar cares, rulteaes, garmant age, golf bog,
‘gun cases, ett. We with to cover the subject of emeemaking as thoroughly te possible to enable you to make ©
‘as2 for any object or purpose, With the information in Volume ONE and Volume TWO you should be wall on
‘your way to making 2 wide variety of leather cases ..with satisfying professional results.

Volume TWO features the construction of a wide variety of handles and thei uses and application. Welted con-
struction i also featured. where the case is assembled inside out, sown. ..then reversee. This makes a very strong
and attractive seam. We ao show the many facets of zipper uses ‘and how to make and install ther, We endeavor
{o instruct you on hows to.design your own eases for speoife Items, I, of cour, imposible to give a pattern for
every type oF case that is made. But with the meny insiructiors end sssembly techniques prawnted within these
page, they can be adaptod to conform to your ovin special projects,

New Carving Desin Partems ara not given in this book a spice wat not valiabl, We have used existing patton
{rom other publications to ilustrate how thoy can be aplied. A bifold or aot design doce not novosariy have
to bo retried co hlifods or belts. Where applicable, the pater soure s given with aech project

To evoid continually repeating ourselves end using valuable space, we will
Fefer you to various books where previous instructions are gwen, Most of
‘the sewing techniques. are fully illustrated In “The Art of Hand Sewing
Leather". non sewing is required, it will be
siven with the project, where epplicabie, within shese pages.

Volume ONE, “The Art of Making Leather Casse”, covers most of the
basic: techniques for containing straps, forming loops, installing rings,
dos, shields, buckles, billets, etc. in great dotall. Setting srape and rivets
is lf well covered. fddtona instructions and nw echniaues are shown
in this book

BURNISHING EDGES: In this book (Volume TWO) we indicate many
the instructions where it suggests: ""SURNISH EDGE". Again,
to save precious space andi avoid duplication, refer to Volume ONE.
page. 12. . for instructions on how to burnish the edges. The. weight
{thickness in'oz| of lether is also explained on page 3 of Volume ONE.

Most of tho instructional sketchas in this book do not show the carved
Panels. It should go without saying that all saving ‘and stamping should
bbe done before beginning assembly. Also, . if you have advanced to this
stage of leathercraft, you should know that all leather (at folds) should
bbe moistened before bending,

It you with to sssamble your cases with buckstitehing.. "How to Buck:
Stith ey atuble book fo haven you ibvary of lsthercrats knowledge
it contine many sxamples (rah & wrong and mathode of buckatitshiny
projets sich ‘ook
Feavired, how io use im, and Ann Stohiman’s si

Sching

Now. ; ets advance into new adventures with “The Art of Making Leather
Gases", "VOLUME THO!

a ala vane

"|At Stohimnan
MAKING LEATHER HANDLES

HANDLES can be made in a variety of longths, styles, sizes, and from a large selection of assorted leathers and
‘ther materials 07 a combination of tham, We will give you a selection of patterns from the most simple strap
fo more complox methods of construction, Some projects require sturdiar handles than others, Some will be of 8
more refined appearance, and be suitable for light oases, handbegs, ete. Our selection is by no means
25 this would make 2 book in itelt. However, with our presentation of patterns

(fit handle to any leather ease you may desire to make.

‘nd styles, you should be

‘The langth of the handle for your case
should ba determined by the most
‘comfortable postion in whieh you want
to carry f. You ean shorten or lengthen
them. at desired. To” determine tho
length, hold the case (or object of
22) in a comfortable position,
and have fiend meesure the distance.

‘The size of handles, t00, plays an important part inthe comfort of your hand. Most luggage and briefease handles
are ofa standard uniform size that wil ft most people. A litle discomfort wil generally go unnoticed, or cepted,
‘thinking nothing can be done about it anyway. However, when making your own handles, you can add to the
Tenge it you have large hends end can sleo widen them By adding fillers to make cher fuller, as desired. Conversly,
‘they can de shortened and/or made thinner forthe delicate or smaller hands.

“The patterns we present are for the average sizs hands. You can mak them longer, shorter, wider, oF
Simply altering the pattorn (in or out) from the canter area, No difficulty should be encountered in d
You tay have to mace up 2 handle first, to devermine which way to alter the pattem, if any. The type and
weights Of leathers will be suggested on the patterns. These, too, can be changed if you wish the handle to be
heavier and sifer or lighter and more fx ble. Use your own judgment for your requirements

‘Shown bolow are the most simple forms of handles and some of the hardware used in attaching them to cases,
‘These handles are made of single thickness leather and the hardware riveted or sewn to secure. For more stiffness,
‘he leathar oan simply be cut from heavier stock, or double thickness used and sewn together at the edges. NO
[Beans are ‘ivan a these handles should ene made from viewing the sketches, Make them f0 any width

OF METAL

tanDwane ~y

2 Pe nee carkfilose) ‘QEBY — PUERLE EnaHED
ee

HANDLE Ne

(=D

This simple handle is handy ‘or small cases such at: first-aid,
twiletry, ete, The handle will ay flat for storage or easier packing
‘while traveling, Handle shown made of 11/12 oz. skirting
Toather, If you do net have this weight, use two pieces of 5/6
leather and glue and sow them together all around the outer
edges.

en Bunwisw Does AeTUAL
Size :

1/2 PATTERN _ >!
Whe ox. Couns

SEW TOGETHER, (© USING DOUBLE LEATHER |

eee,

This type of handle is usually attached
with a metal loop and.conter post (above)
‘and riveted to the case. If ths hardware
not available, we can achieve the
results with leather loops, copper
rivets and burrs. Begin the instructions
below and on the following page.

SA

Fad SORES EET EEE Ne
We aa icnary uo Ler cowie

La] propre wo tenth oops and punch
1 holo ihe cath a tp So Voki
BN the At of Haking oat” Cast?
Sean 8. ior making ener oops

‘concn

HANDLE No.2

eer ee [se]
—>

V2 PATTERN

=? W/ie e. Cownit

PEP BB sifion

oa

HANDLE

a
HANDLE No.2 - Continued _ BEkR*

Place on riveting surface and “set” the burr next
to the slot, as shown. DO NOT SET TIGHT! Handle
should move freely in the slot back and forth on the
rivet. Repeat riveting loop on other end.

into hole in loop. Place slot of

{re potion of he oan ot ang ae tar

in the cate are determined by slicing the loape 0
the inside of the slots, shown above.

aver “A

Aftar punching slots project over and
and vet holes in ‘second Burr snug
proper position, push to leather inside the case.
Toop. ends and’ rivet Do not aet so tight at to
through hole in cate, b

‘8 indieatad ot lft.

Turn project over. If you
have an old setter, lightly

joe” the rivet head,
exere aio

fiver oes _/ NOTE: Loop ends can be slued down inside case. No sewing is required, as the
M oase rivets go through the case securing the assembly.

HANDLE No. 2-A This is a modification of handle No. 2. The sleeves
the

(at ends) "take te place

of the handle a bit, and skive
some thickness off the very ends, as suggested below.

[acruat size | -——1%' ~

Page tit mane 4 weave
TaicKeR an

Form the sleov
of "The Art of Making
Volume ONE.
eine, Adjustable ~ HANDLE No.3
{ { [ery

*) Gut two straps from 617 02, cowhide about
hoes in

EXAMPLE |
|

p
sdopending
‘on the buckles ured, Burnith the edgpe

‘This handle is acapted for hand and shoulder
fength adjustment, as well as positions in
between, It adjusts from about 23” to 40".

(as

Ie is shown here with two methods of con fares
struction, featuring two styles of loops and me oe
buckles. Straps can be eur shorter or longer pd

+) ta fit your requirements, position

“The nds (for attaching to caso or bag) are
secured with “omamental siver_concho
] Chigago screws, for easy attachment or re

‘moval. Follow the instructions slow for
‘making these hand!

G <8 — (ERAMELE ais he
E MPLE A) BAR Bucs ~K,
= Round ends of both straps and bumish ~~
— doe. Fold ends shown, Intl buco s
fon onestrap; metal loop on the other oy Se

Assemble straps as shown above. Place buckle tongue in
desired adjustment hole and pull strap down snug, See
photo,

ENS Segbe 8B Erbe “oe
genera, LEXAMPLE B] ake two tex S To ska

from 4/5 02, cowhide. Sew one Sgr,
tach strap. NOTE! One loop up: on
Sort Sop "Tho. Art of Hand Sewing gp.

Lather” for sewing straps and looas, paces See" |
Broa Borne Fry

—=3

Begin assembly by installing conway buckle ss
shown “above.” Now assemble straps. at shown
below, Adjust to desired hole: pull mug. Conway
buckle does not move from its location an the
First strap. See photo,

pavermarione Siow ain aeans ores uF 5
HANDLE No. 4

Thie ie 2 light to medium duty
hand of one piece contruction,
Walsa makes 4 vary nice

for fandge though te. ength
‘must be Increased to about 16” or
18" between fod

Bye a
cownbe

ACTUAL,
‘SRE

hie pattom meskes «com
pletee_herdle’ about 3/4"
(wide To narrow the pat

term 0" 2'sm rst, “A snaps cin be ued on the
tions inthe lower right Sap an by et on
hand corner. me

Se creer usa
te ee Bee

Sra rinmus | eublane

ives OO aa Ceara | parE acy

ee,

Gut out the hare
pattern) and gouge a sewing channel on the
nly, Moisten ends, install nardware, and clue down, 8s above.

Skive arees shown on the pattern, Burnish edges (see
ide ‘he short side

SKIVED EDGE 7 MOISTEN LEATHER

cna ro ln

2] PATTERNS
“Moisten the leather along the fold ine. Apply glue to the flesh side, Allow to “set” I] Sane

KGa NATL Ld %

thon fold the unburnished edge over and adhere “almest” to the opposite fold _-/
Tine: Itshould be set back about 1/16”. Tap flat with hammer. As

stwne conmnes

oz
‘Aprly iment to. the ACTUAL
—- Canter tine of te folded was | “eee

Side, andto flesh side of
the short sido, Fold avar
tighrly and adhere, The

fect wih et) Tum apr vt
mela seee (Canseco ea oo
LR, cetacean [Sj

Hy
NOTE:
‘When making patos wider
fof narrower. sahrays make
fadjestments trom the center
Tine of the original pattor!

BD pce in sitcing tore
San hes tk
Shae
ieee
HANDLE No. 5

uty handle, The tops
‘made of natural cowhide
‘The underside is made of
soft garment type leather
Of any desired color to
‘match clothing, handbage,
fete. Thie, pattern makes
about a" wide handle

For handbags or other
casoe "requiring" longer
handles, simply extend the
J pattern batureon fold

Ce

1

TED ue semester an ine mpd on
oe le ere asr sie See ee eee as
MSCS nc Abita NUS feats a
pag EP ani 8 oh

Ree

Bi

A sewne

TOP STRAP.

note the

ite edye up to the center line
fends taper in slightly. Tap with hammer to adhere.

7/8 02. COWMDE

k= Ya PATTERN

[3] snatat hardware, Fok! ends in 8 poition on pattern) and
jan doen

A sew wien

sewing channel on both sides. Glue on top of the
{garment leather (shove). Keep piece centered, and the
fees aligned. Tap with hammer,

uniform.

ED [revuac [|
_—s \"sze" |
cee a

eDse # Buns
Stoes AND Enos
oF me Piece

Cer

il
sei &
gh 8 |
tii ft
tel |
aaa
re]
Rig. ft
eer
Bie] |
gid) |
ii i
bon
Tes
| these
|

Prapars th top sap Burn sits and onds. Gouge 2 [EL tae in attching hare, sow throu
Sinan Sie HANDLE No. 6

This is s ruggedly built hane
of simple. construction. Te is
Sesigned to bulla co dees oF
rings on the ease. The pattern
presented is for” buckles.
Burnish all edges. shown in
heavy lines on the patterns,

netuaL| sxwe ro 4
See) / Reggae

CCut the straps. Skive, punch slots and holes,
burnish edges, gouge sewing channels (see
patterns)

Moisten the folds of the bucklastraps, Insta
bickles, Fold around bucklas and cement
‘the ends co the strap, as at lef.

NS 38 Wow cement the buckle strap to the billet trap ft
me ‘hould be centered with an scual amount of lt
2 82 ‘tending bevond each Buckle [above Keep the
FH iss ‘oe signed
a | |) es
Ey 53 Pall back buckle tongue and
2 SE | asa" biter end trough buckle
Ls (right). This gets the buckle out of

the way for seming.

zi

“wheel” the sening channels
and’ sew ‘through all straps,
Edge and burnish tho rest of
the strap betweun the buckles

Vil Vil
4-4

Nanilce ovhnned

BUCKLE
ae BatK ot 0 ie aehle

STRAP

‘SP + This handle can be stiffened considerably by adding enother thick
ECIAL NOTE 16 of lothor betwoan tho buckle and Billet straps, Skive both ands.
Cement all pert together before sawing.