The Art of Extreme Wig Styling

102 Pages·2021·64.175 MB·English

by  Regan Cerato

The Art of
Extreme Wig Styling
By Regan Cerato
Cowbutt Crunchies Cosplay
Ready to level up
your wig styling?
This guide is for ambitious crafters,
cosplayers, and costumers who are
eager to learn the art of larger than life
wigwork. Follow along to learn how
to style everything from dyed spikes
to dragon scales to fiber flowers, along
with core basics that will help take
your future projects to the next level.
The Art of
Extreme Wig
Styling
A styling handbook for the
ambitious wigsmith
By
Regan Cerato
Cowbutt Crunchies Cosplay
Acknowledgements
Dedicated to the inspiring Ila, and to Sam, Theresa,
and Alex who are always encouraging me to conquer
bigger and bolder things!
With special thanks to our friends for all of their
support: Eric, Pearl, Emilia, TJ, Cat, Carrie, Ian, Zach,
Matt, Lauren, Jacqui, Jenna, Cass, Paul, Tyler, Kayla,
Rob, Hope, Tuan, Dan, Mary, Sarah, Alex, Amanda,
Beverly, Luisa, Lizz, Daisy, Maggie, and Marlowe.
And to my copy editors Pitchforkcosplay, Ryephoenix,
Elephantbird Cosplay, Shieldivarius, Sweetlyneurotic,
Mhysarose, and Banaheif.
First Published in 2020
© Regan Cerato
Designed & Published by Cowbutt Crunchies Cosplay
http://cowbuttcrunchiescosplay.com
No part of this book may be reproduced in any form
without written permission.
Photography by Sam Saturn (p. 2, 5, 6, 15, 25, 40, 41, 53,
54, 56, 79, 82, 85, 88, 91, 93, 97, front cover)
Sorairo Days (p. 20, 68, 94, inside cover)
Alexandra Lee Studios (p. 14, 78, 100)
Models: Ilabelle Cosplay (cover), Commiaownist (p. 41),
Turnfolio Cosplay (p. 6, 54), Alchemical Cosplay (p. 40),
Giraffe Cosplay (p. 79), Pitchforkcosplay (p.88, 95)
About the Author
Regan Cerato is one half of “Cowbutt Crunchies
Cosplay”, a couple who specializes in complex couture
cosplay and original pop culture-based designs. They
also decided to name themselves after their cats.
She is a world champion titleholder who has hosted
workshops and judged cosplay competitions around
the globe. As a cosplay educator with two decades of
experience, she and her wife love giving what they’ve
learned back to the community. They often run
convention panels and online tutorials, in addition to
their cosplay charity site that donates its earnings to
cat-related rescues.
Introduction - 2
Let’s Make
Some Wigs!
Welcome, stylists! I am one half of Cowbutt Crunchies Cosplay, and for years I’ve loved creating ev-
erything from giant ballgowns to detailed armor. Larger than life wigs are a specialty of mine, but over
the years I’ve found that extravagant wigs can be intimidating for even the most seasoned of crafters.
However I believe that extreme wig making is for everybody: anyone from beginner to advanced stylists
can tackle these styles with a combination of the right techniques, patience, and ambition!
This book includes many of my favorite styling methods and tips that I’ve picked up over the years, as
well as several of my own wig creations to serve as artistic inspiration. I’ve also included a hefty number
of guides on both essential and extreme styling techniques, along with a number of talking points on
best practices, tips, and instructions for recreating common styles. My teaching style centers around
stepping readers through the logic behind why exactly a styling technique works - I want you to walk
away with knowledge that you can apply to your own future projects beyond what’s contained in this
book. Use these chapters as a guideline but as always there is no one “right” way to style - be sure to try
new things, experiment, and adopt the techniques that work best for you!
Introduction - 3
Table of Contents
SECTION I: FOUNDATIONS 5 SECTION III: EXTREME
STYLING TECHNIQUES 40
01: The Building Blocks of Wigs 6
Wig Terminology
05: All About Wefts 41
Fiber Contents
Weft Basics
Essential Styling Tools
De-wefting and Harvesting Wefts
Additional Helpful Tools
Wefting Hair
Choosing a Glue for Your Project
Updos and Rearranging Wefts
New Part Lines
Updo Styles
SECTION II: ESSENTIAL Double-Thick Wigs
Filling In Mistakes
STYLING TECHNIQUES 14
06: Tackling an Extreme Project 53
02: Trimming Tips 15
Creating Volume: All About Understructure
Before Beginning: Blunt Cuts
Where to Begin
Cutting with Razors
Cutting with Scissors: Flicking Motions
Cutting with Scissors: Angled Cutting 07: Teasing and Volumizing 56
Teasing Basics
Perfectly Pointy Spikes
03: Working with Heat 20
Medium Sized Spikes
Straightening
Ultimate Teasing: Giant Spikes and Curls
Curling
Fluffed and Volumized Hair
Extra Lift
Less Poof
Hair Flips 08: Gluework and Foamwork 68
Types of Understructure
Attaching Your Understructure
04: Dyeing Wigs 25
Glues for Foamwork
Wig Coloring Basics
Flat Shapes
Dyeing with Polyester Fabric Dye
Round Shapes
Dyeing with Markers
Covering Glued Hair Edges
Dyeing with Artist Inks
Coloring Roots
Ombre Dyeing
SECTION IV: EXTREME
PROJECTS 78
Project I: Dual Toned Wigs
Project II: Wavy Spikes
Project III: Removable Hair Pieces
Project IV: Fiber Feathers
Project V: Fiber Scales
Project VI: Fiber Flowers
Project VII: Woven Patterns
Table of Contents - 4
SECTION I
FOUNDATIONS
CHAPTER
01
THE BUILDING
BLOCKS OF WIGS
Section I - Foundations - 6
Wig Terminology
Wig
B
B Wig Cap D
C
C Netting
D Crown
E Ear Tab
F
E
F Elastic Band
G Adjustable Strap
H Weft G
H
B
Weft
E
B Weft Track
C
C Stitch Line
D
D Hair Fiber
E Fiber Ends
Section I - Foundations - 7
Fiber Contents
What are synthetic Matte fiber versus
wigs made of? slick fiber
Most synthetic wig fiber is composed of long strings All fibers are not created equally! While I am a firm
of plastic. Unlike the keratin in human hair, plastic is believer that you can style any wig with enough ef-
shinier, often thicker, and can withstand more abuse. fort, I also believe that there is always a way to make
There are many different types of wig fiber plas- less work for yourself. Matte fibers tend to be thicker
tic out there, and some brands even use their own and coarser, while slicker or shiny fiber tends to be
special blends. Extremely cheap “bag wigs” that you thinner and smoother.
might see in a Halloween store have a tell-tale shine
that indicates that the fiber is made of low quality Aside from a personal visual preference, this has a few
plastic. Older brands and “ready-wear” wigs tend to important effects on our styling. Coarse fibers like
be made of kanekalon fibers, which can vary in shine those sold by cosplay brands Arda Wigs or The Five
and come in limited, more realistic colors like blondes Wits naturally have more “tooth” to them and tend to
and browns. This can be great if you’re looking for grab onto each other even with natural wear. This is
realistic hair tones, but bear in mind that some wigs a great advantage and can save effort when you need
like this are not heat resistant. They cannot accept to tease or spike a wig. However, for this same reason
very hot temperatures from tools like flat irons (up to long styles made with matte fiber tend to tangle more
400 degrees F), and may melt under an extremely hot with wear and friction.
blow dryer. Keep an eye out for wigs that are labeled
as “heat resistant,” and especially ones that come in To contrast, if your wig displays a visible shine or
a variety of colors and thicknesses. Depending on sheen, it may be made from thinner, softer wig hair.
which store you purchase your wig from, you may These fibers tend to ‘slide’ against each other rather
notice that your fiber might have a slick sheen to it, than knot and tangle tangle. A good rule of thumb is
or that it might appear almost matte. This is due to to use slicker fiber if you want a long wig that doesn’t
the blend of fiber used. tangle as easily. Or if you need a shorter wig with lots
of upward volume, matte fiber will help you achieve
that look.
TIP: Don’t want to follow the
above suggestion? That’s fine too:
pick the fiber type you like best!
If using matte fiber for a long wig, be
sure to apply a detangling spray be-
fore wearing. If using slick fiber for
heavy styling, a few sprays of hair-
spray will give the hair some tempo-
rary grip during the teasing process.
Section I - Foundations - 8