Textiles

595 Pages·29.186 MB·English

by  Pearson., Kadolph J., Sara

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Textiles
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Eleventh Edition
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ISBN 978-1-29202-135-5
9 781292 021355
Textiles
Sara J. Kadolph
Eleventh Edition
ISBN 10: 1-292-02135-7
ISBN 13: 978-1-292-02135-5
Pearson Education Limited
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Essex CM20 2JE
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© Pearson Education Limited 2014
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in this text does not vest in the author or publisher any trademark ownership rights in such
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book by such owners.
ISBN 10: 1-292-02135-7
ISBN 13: 978-1-292-02135-5
British Library Cataloguing-in-Publication Data
A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library
Printed in the United States of America
111122221257024803581777791193539
P E A R S O N C U S T O M L I B R AR Y
Table of Contents
1. Introduction
Sara J. Kadolph 1
2. Product Development from a Textile Perspective
Sara J. Kadolph 13
3. Textile Fibers and Their Properties
Sara J. Kadolph 25
4. Natural Cellulosic Fibers
Sara J. Kadolph 53
5. Natural Protein Fibers
Sara J. Kadolph 79
6. The Fiber-Manufacturing Process
Sara J. Kadolph 107
7. Manufactured Regenerated Fibers
Sara J. Kadolph 127
8. Synthetic Fibers
Sara J. Kadolph 147
9. Special-Use Fibers
Sara J. Kadolph 187
10. Yarn Processing
Sara J. Kadolph 209
11. Yarn Classification
Sara J. Kadolph 231
12. Weaving, Basic Weaves, and Fabrics
Sara J. Kadolph 251
13. Fancy Weaves and Fabrics
Sara J. Kadolph 289
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14. Knitting and Knit Fabrics
Sara J. Kadolph 309
15. Other Fabrication Methods
Sara J. Kadolph 337
16. Finishing: An Overview
Sara J. Kadolph 373
17. Aesthetic Finishes
Sara J. Kadolph 393
18. Special-Purposes Finishes
Sara J. Kadolph 415
19. Dyeing and Printing
Sara J. Kadolph 443
20. Care of Textile Products
Sara J. Kadolph 479
21. Legal, Sustainability, and Environmental Issues
Sara J. Kadolph 507
22. Career Exploration
Sara J. Kadolph 535
23. Appendix: Fiber Names in Other Languages
Sara J. Kadolph 551
24. Appendix: Selected Trade Names
Sara J. Kadolph 553
25. Appendix: Standard Care Terminology
Sara J. Kadolph 557
26. Glossary
Sara J. Kadolph 561
Index 577
II
INTRODUCTION
From Chapter 1 of Textiles, 11/e. Sara J. Kadolph. Copyright © 2010 by Pearson Education. Published by Prentice Hall. All rights reserved.
2
INTRODUCTION
CHAPTER OBJECTIVES
• To recognize the diversity in textiles and textile products.
• To understand the value of developing a professional knowledge of textiles.
• To recognize how textile apparel, interior, and technical products enhance quality of life.
• To understand the global nature of the textile complex.
3
introduction
Imagine apparel that responds to cold weather by releasing heat and keeping your skin dry
while you are cross-country skiing, that protects you from sunburn while hiking in a national
park, that protects police from knife slashes, and that reduces diaper rash and body odor!
Imagine technical textiles that filter hazardous waste, bacteria, and parasites from drinking wa-
ter; that keep pets and livestock safer and healthier; that keep roadbeds smooth longer; that
help wounds heal; and that enable astronauts to work outside their spacecraft! Imagine fibers
so tiny they are sized by nanometers (1 (cid:2)10(cid:3)9m) or so large that they can cut through plant
stems, or fibers that are based on research about spider webs! You will learn about all these
amazing textiles, innovative research in the industry.
The majority of the text is devoted to basic information about textile materials, with an em-
(a) Woven fabric phasis on fibers, yarns, fabric construction, finishes, and coloration. These interdependent el-
Fiber ements found in most textiles contribute to the beauty or aesthetics, durability, care, cost,
Finished fabric
Yarn appearance retention, safety, function, and comfort of textile products.
Much of the terminology used may be new to students, and many facts must be memo-
rized. It takes time and effort to understand and recognize the fine differences among fibers,
yarn and fabric structures, and finishes and coloration methods. You will have to examine many
fabrics closely in order to develop this ability. Often, a single term is used to describe a wide
range of fabrics. For example, velvet can be produced by knitting, weaving, tufting, and flock-
F
a ing. Woven velvet is used for skirts and dresses. Heavier weight woven velvets and warp-knit
b
ric velvets are used for upholstery. Flocked and tufted velvet are less expensive and used for less
expensive upholstered furniture.
To apply a knowledge of textiles, an understanding of the basics is essential. The empha-
sis is on fundamental concepts and commercially significant fibers, yarn and fabric types, fin-
ishes, coloration techniques, and production methods. Principles of textile production are
included to help the student develop a better understanding of, and appreciation for, the tex-
Unfinished fabric
tile industry. Because of the quantity of information included, it will be a useful resource for in-
(b) Knit fabric
dividuals seeking careers in the global textile complex.
Fiber
Finished fabric Yarn
Textiles and Textile Products
But what are textiles? To know what textiles are and to understand textiles, several basic terms
F must be defined:
a
b
ric TextileA term originally applied only to woven fabrics, now generally applied to any flexible
material that is composed of thin films of polymers or of fibers, yarns, or fabrics or products
made of films, fibers, yarns, or fabrics.
Polymer A very large molecule made by connecting many small molecules together.
Almost all fibers are polymers made of organic materials, but some polymers are formed
into thin films and used as textiles. For example, vinyl upholstery is a film, often applied to
a more traditional textile knit or woven material for added durability.
FiberAny substance, natural or manufactured, with a high length-to-width ratio possessing
Unfinished fabric
suitable characteristics for being processed into fabric; the smallest component, hairlike in
Figure 1 The components
nature, that can be separated from a fabric. Fibers can be absorbent (like cotton and
of a fabric:fiber,yarn,structure,
rayon), stretchy (like spandex), warm and bulky (like wool), or very strong and abrasion
and finish. resistant (like nylon and polyester). (See Figure 1.)
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introduction
YarnAn assemblage of fibers that is twisted or laid together so as to form a continuous
strand that can be made into a textile fabric. Yarns can be used to make a fabric that is
smooth and slick like satin or soft and fuzzy like brushed denim. (See Figure 1.)
FabricA flexible planar substance constructed from solutions, fibers, yarns, or fabrics,
in any combination. (See Figure 1.) Fabrics range from lightweight and sheer chiffon
scarves to heavy and sturdy denim to rigid and firm carpeting to technical products. (See
Figures 2and 3.)
Gray goods (grey or greige goods)Any fabric that has not been finished. Consumers
rarely see gray goods, except for home sewers and quilters who may work with muslin.
ColorationAnydyeingorprintingprocessusedtoaddcolorwithdyesorpigmentstoatex-
tile.Colorationaddsinterestandfashionappealtoapparelandinteriors.(SeeFigure1.)
FinishAnyprocessthatmodifiesappearanceorenhancesperformanceofgraygoods(un-
finishedfabric).Somefinishesmakethefabricmorecomfortablesuchasbrushingvelveteen
toproducethesoftsurface.Withotherfinishes,theconsumercannotdeterminethepres-
enceofafinish.Forexample,apairofcottonslacksmayhaveastain-resistantfinishthat
makesstainseasiertoremove,buttheconsumerwillnotbeabletoseethefinishandwill
onlyknowofitspresenceifsuchinformationisincludedonlabelsortags.(SeeFigure1.)
Soft goodsProducts constructed of textiles and other flexible materials including apparel,
interior textiles, and technical textiles.
Smart textiles(also known as smart fabrics, interactive textilesor intelligent textiles)
sense and react to the environment or stimuli of an electrical, chemical, thermal, mechanical, mag- Most textiles are made of fibers that
netic, or other nature. While smart textiles are an area undergoing rapid change, many new smart areprocessed into yarns and woven or
textiles are of interest to government agencies, the military, and consumers. Smart textiles deliver knit into fabrics. Coloration and finishing
medication in slow controlled doses, monitor pulse and body temperature, promote safety with add value, enhance appearance,
sensors that identify seat occupancy in vehicles, and keep wearers comfortable by promoting heat or improve performance.
loss in warm weather and minimizing heat loss in cooler weather. In the future, some smart textiles
may clean themselves. Research in its early stages has found chemicals that can be applied to the
surface of fabrics to break down soil and kill microorganisms that cause odor. Smart textiles also
offer the potential for reducing design and product piracy and counterfeit products.
Technicalor industrial textilesinclude a broad range of materials that are widely used
in special applications of a technical nature and that are generally not considered apparel or in-
teriors. Table 1lists examples of technical textiles. Technical textiles contribute to quality of life.
For example, the automotive industry uses textiles for tire cords for a durable tire that produces
a comfortable ride; seat upholstery and carpeting for comfort, style, and easy care; head liners
and window runners for noise reduction and a finished interior; seat belts and shoulder har-
nesses for safety; reinforcement fibers in molded plastic parts to reduce weight and cost; and
fan belts, gaskets, and seals to improve function and efficiency.
Some textiles are encountered every day while others are never directly used or seen by
most people. Everyday textile products include apparel(clothing and fashion accessories like
bags and shoes made from flexible materials), interior textiles(including upholstered furniture,
carpets and rugs, wall coverings, draperies and curtains, table linens, and towels and bed linens;
also known as interior furnishings or home fashions), and technical and industrial textiles
found in the home like toothbrushes and bandages and wraps to immobilize or support wrists
and ankles in first aid kits, and in the car (seat belts, trunk liners, and gaskets and belts in the en-
gine). Technical textiles include fabrics that reduce environmental damage (woven and nonwoven
landscape erosion control fabrics) and protect other buildings and pedestrians during demolition
of buildings (woven and nonwoven demolition screen fabrics). Medical textiles include warp knit
replacement veins, graphite fibers to lubricate replacement joints, impermeable gloves
and bandages that protect against infection, and filter membranes in artificial kidney machines.
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