Textile technology

450 Pages·2014·223.075 MB·English

by  T Gries

Thomas Gries
Dieter Veit
Burkhard Wulfhorst
Textile Technology
An Introduction
2nd Edition
Gries, Veit, Wulfhorst
Textile Technology

Thomas Gries
Dieter Veit
Burkhard Wulfhorst
Textile Technology
An Introduction
2nd Edition
With Contributions by
Yves-Simon Gloy, Adolf Gräber, Achim Hehl, Melanie Hörr, Christopher
Lenz, Volker Niebel, Nicole Saeger, Andreas Schnabel, Viktoria Schrank,
Philipp Schuster, Klaus-Peter Weber
Hanser Publishers, Munich Hanser Publications, Cincinnati
The Authors:
Univ.-Prof. Thomas Gries, ITA, Institut für Textiltechnik der RWTH Aachen, Otto-Blumenthal-Straße 1, 52074 Aachen,
Germany
Dr.-Ing. Dieter Veit, ITA, Institut für Textiltechnik der RWTH Aachen, Otto-Blumenthal-Straße 1, 52074 Aachen,
Germany
Prof. Dr.-Ing. Burkhard Wulfhorst (deceased), formerly of the ITA, Institut für Textiltechnik der RWTH Aachen,
Otto-Blumenthal-Straße 1, 52074 Aachen, Germany
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ISBN 978-1-56990-565-4
E-Book ISBN 978-1-56990-566-1
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© Carl Hanser Verlag, Munich 2015
Editor: Cheryl Hamilton
Production Management: Jörg Strohbach
Coverconcept: Marc Müller-Bremer, www.rebranding.de, München
Coverdesign: Stephan Rönigk
Printed and bound by Kösel, Krugzell
Printed in Germany
Contents
Preface to the Second Edition ................................... XVII
Preface to the First Edition ...................................... XVII
Preface to the First German Edition .............................. XVIII
1 Introduction ................................................ 1
1.1 Why Are There Fibers and Yarns? ................................ 1
1.1.1 Tenacity and Elongation .................................. 2
1.1.2 Surface and Porosity ..................................... 3
1.1.3 Mechanics of Solid Bodies and Textile Structures ............. 4
1.2 Evolution of Textile Technology .................................. 5
1.3 Production Stages ............................................. 8
1.4 Typical Products Made from Natural and Man-Made Fibers .......... 12
1.5 Yarns ........................................................ 15
1.6 Textiles ...................................................... 15
1.7 Textile Products ............................................... 18
1.8 Multiscale Model .............................................. 21
1.9 Importance of the Textile Industry ............................... 22
1.10 World Trade with Textiles ....................................... 25
2 Raw Materials ............................................... 29
2.1 Natural Fibers ................................................ 31
2.1.1 Plant Fibers ............................................. 32
2.1.1.1 Cotton (CO) ...................................... 32
2.1.1.2 Flax (Linen) (LI) .................................. 36
2.1.1.3 Other Bast and Hard Fibers ......................... 42
VI  Contents
2.1.2 Animal Fibers ........................................... 43
2.1.2.1 Wool (Sheep’s Wool; WO) and Fine Animal Hair ........ 43
2.1.2.2 Silk (Mulberry Silk; SE) ............................ 47
2.1.3 Mineral Fibers .......................................... 49
2.2 Chemical Fibers ............................................... 50
2.2.1 Manufacturing Processes ................................. 50
2.2.2 Chemical Fibers from Natural Polymers ..................... 55
2.2.2.1 Viscose Fibers (CV) ............................... 57
2.2.2.2 Lyocell Fibers (CLY) ............................... 59
2.2.2.3 Cupro Fibers (CUP) ................................ 62
2.2.2.4 Acetate Fibers (CA) ................................ 63
2.2.3 Chemical Fibers from Synthetic Polymers ................... 66
2.2.3.1 Mechanisms for the Generation of Macromolecules ..... 66
2.2.4 Chemical Fibers from Inorganic Raw Materials . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71
2.2.4.1 Glass Fibers (GF) ................................. 71
2.2.4.2 Carbon Fibers (CF) ................................ 74
2.2.4.3 Metal Fibers (MTF) ................................ 76
2.2.5 Further Processing ....................................... 78
2.2.5.1 Drawing ......................................... 78
2.2.5.2 Texturing ........................................ 80
2.2.5.3 Production of Staple Fibers ......................... 84
2.3 Examples .................................................... 86
2.3.1 Jeans .................................................. 86
2.3.2 Carpet ................................................. 87
2.3.3 Airbags ................................................ 89
3 Principles and Machinery for Yarn Production ................ 95
3.1 Cotton Spinning ............................................... 95
3.1.1 Spinning Preparation Machines ............................ 98
3.1.1.1 Bale Opening ..................................... 98
3.1.1.2 Opening and Cleaning ............................. 99
3.1.1.3 Mixing .......................................... 100
3.1.1.4 Carding ......................................... 101
3.1.1.5 Draw Frames ..................................... 103
3.1.1.6 Homogenization of the Sliver ....................... 105
3.1.2 Combing Room .......................................... 105
3.1.2.1 Purpose of Combing ............................... 106
3.1.2.2 Combing Machine ................................. 107
3.1.3 Ring Spinning Process .................................... 109
3.1.3.1 Flyer Spinning .................................... 109
3.1.3.2 Ring Spinning .................................... 110
3.1.3.3 Compact Spinning ................................ 112
Contents VII
3.1.4 Nonconventional Spinning Principles ....................... 113
3.1.4.1 OE-Rotor Spinning ................................ 114
3.1.4.2 Air-Jet Spinning .................................. 116
3.1.4.3 Air False-Twist Wrap-Spinning ...................... 119
3.1.4.4 Summary of Other Nonconventional Spinning Methods 120
3.1.4.5 Comparison of the Most Important Nonconventional
Spinning Methods ................................. 120
3.2 Special Spinning Methods ...................................... 121
3.2.1 Carded Woolen Spinning .................................. 121
3.2.1.1 Carding ......................................... 122
3.2.1.2 Nonconventional Carded Woolen Spinning ............ 125
3.2.2 Worsted Spinning ........................................ 126
3.2.2.1 Intersecting Gill Box and Chain Gill Box .............. 128
3.2.3 Mock-Worsted Spinning ................................... 129
3.3 Development Trends ........................................... 130
3.3.1 Machines for Spinning Preparation ......................... 130
3.3.2 Production of Staple Fiber Yarns with Defined Properties ...... 131
3.3.3 Production Increase of Ring Spinning Frames . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 131
3.3.4 Ring/Traveler Combination ................................ 131
3.3.5 Sliver Spinning .......................................... 131
3.3.6 Compact and Condension Spinning ......................... 132
3.3.7 Process Control Engineering ............................... 132
3.4 Fineness Measurements of Fibers and Yarns ....................... 132
3.4.1 Length Numbering ....................................... 133
3.4.2 Mass/Weight Numbering ................................. 133
3.5 Summary of the Measurement Systems ........................... 136
3.5.1 Spinning Preparation ..................................... 136
3.5.2 Combing Room .......................................... 136
3.5.3 Ring Spinning ........................................... 136
3.5.4 Rotor Spinning .......................................... 137
3.6 Examples .................................................... 137
3.6.1 Jeans .................................................. 137
3.6.2 Carpet ................................................. 138
3.6.3 Airbag ................................................. 138
4 Principles and Machinery for Production of Woven Fabrics ... 141
4.1 Production Principles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 141
4.2 Weaving Preparation ........................................... 143
4.2.1 Winding ................................................ 143
4.2.2 Twisting ................................................ 145
4.2.3 Preparation of the Warp Beam ............................. 147
VIII  Contents
4.2.4 Warping ................................................ 147
4.2.5 Section Warping ......................................... 147
4.2.6 Sizing .................................................. 148
4.3 Construction of Woven Fabrics .................................. 149
4.3.1 Definitions of Woven Fabrics .............................. 149
4.3.2 Repeating Pattern ........................................ 149
4.3.3 Floatation .............................................. 149
4.3.4 Weave Diagram .......................................... 149
4.3.5 Weave Symbol ........................................... 150
4.3.6 Basic Weave Patterns ..................................... 150
4.3.6.1 Plain Weave ...................................... 150
4.3.6.2 Twill Weave ...................................... 151
4.3.6.3 Atlas or Satin Weave ............................... 151
4.3.7 Special Weaving Techniques ............................... 152
4.3.7.1 Cord and Velveteen ................................ 152
4.3.7.2 Terry Woven ..................................... 152
4.3.7.3 Two-Ply Fabric .................................... 152
4.4 Design and Principle of Weaving Looms ........................... 153
4.4.1 Warp Let-Off Systems ..................................... 154
4.4.2 Machines with Eccentric Drive ............................. 156
4.4.3 Machines with Shaft Drive ................................ 156
4.4.4 Jacquard Looms ......................................... 157
4.4.5 Shuttle Loom ............................................ 159
4.4.6 Projectile Loom .......................................... 159
4.4.7 Rapier Loom ............................................ 160
4.4.8 Jet Loom ................................................ 161
4.4.9 Multiphase Loom ........................................ 162
4.4.10 Weft Insertion Speed ..................................... 162
4.4.11 Open-Reed Weaving ...................................... 163
4.5 Development Trends ........................................... 165
4.6 Examples .................................................... 166
4.6.1 Jeans .................................................. 166
4.6.2 Carpet ................................................. 167
4.6.3 Airbag ................................................. 169
5 Processes and Machines for Knitwear Production ............ 173
5.1 Knitting ..................................................... 175
5.1.1 Design and Structure ..................................... 175
5.1.2 Loop Formation .......................................... 177
5.1.2.1 Jacquard Technique ............................... 179
Contents IX
5.1.3 Knitting Machines ....................................... 181
5.1.3.1 Flat-Bed Knitting Machines ......................... 181
5.1.3.2 Circular Knitting Machines ......................... 182
5.1.3.3 Spacer Knitting Machines .......................... 184
5.2 Warp Knitting ................................................ 186
5.2.1 Design and Structure ..................................... 186
5.2.2 Warp-Knitting Machines .................................. 187
5.2.2.1 Coulier Warp-Knitting Machines .................... 188
5.2.2.2 Warp-Knitting Machines ........................... 189
5.2.2.3 Warp-Knitted Spacer Fabrics ........................ 191
5.3 Development Trends ........................................... 192
5.4 Examples .................................................... 193
5.4.1 Carpets ................................................ 193
6 Processes and Machines for Nonwovens Production ......... 195
6.1 Basics ....................................................... 195
6.2 Market ....................................................... 196
6.3 Raw Materials ................................................ 199
6.4 Processes and Machines ........................................ 200
6.4.1 Processes of Web Formation ............................... 201
6.4.1.1 Mechanical Web Formation Processes ................ 201
6.4.1.2 Aerodynamic Web Formation Processes .............. 205
6.4.1.3 Hydrodynamic Web Formation Processes ............. 206
6.4.1.4 Spun-Bonded Nonwovens ........................... 207
6.4.1.4.1 Melt-Blown Process ....................... 209
6.4.1.4.2 Reifenhäuser Process ..................... 209
6.4.1.5 Market Overview .................................. 209
6.4.2 Processes of Web Consolidation ............................ 210
6.4.2.1 Web Bonding by Friction Force ...................... 210
6.4.2.1.1 Needle Punching ......................... 210
6.4.2.1.2 Hydroentangling ......................... 211
6.4.2.2 Thermal Bonding ................................. 212
6.4.2.3 Chemical Bonding ................................. 213
6.4.2.4 Stitch Bonding .................................... 214
6.4.2.5 Market Overview .................................. 214
6.4.3 Drying ................................................. 215
6.4.4 Finishing ............................................... 216
6.4.4.1 Processes for the Improvement of Textile Drapeability .. 216
6.4.4.2 Processes for Leather Finishing ..................... 217
6.4.4.3 Heat-Sealing Coating .............................. 217
6.5 Applications .................................................. 217