Textile and Clothing Design Technology PDF
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Textile and Clothing Design Technology Textile and Clothing Design Technology Edited by Tom Cassidy Parikshit Goswami CRC Press Taylor & Francis Group 6000 Broken Sound Parkway NW, Suite 300 Boca Raton, FL 33487-2742 © 2018 by Taylor & Francis Group, LLC CRC Press is an imprint of Taylor & Francis Group, an Informa business No claim to original U.S. Government works Printed on acid-free paper International Standard Book Number-13: 978-1-4987-9639-2 (Hardback) This book contains information obtained from authentic and highly regarded sources. Reasonable efforts have been made to publish reliable data and information, but the author and publisher cannot assume responsibility for the validity of all materi- als or the consequences of their use. The authors and publishers have attempted to trace the copyright holders of all material reproduced in this publication and apologize to copyright holders if permission to publish in this form has not been obtained. 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Trademark Notice: Product or corporate names may be trademarks or registered trademarks, and are used only for identifica- tion and explanation without intent to infringe. Library of Congress Cataloging‑in‑Publication Data Names: Cassidy, Tom, Professor of design, editor. | Goswami, Parikshit, editor. Title: Textile and clothing design technology / [edited by] Tom Cassidy, Parikshit Goswami. Description: Boca Raton : Taylor & Francis, a CRC title, part of the Taylor & Francis imprint, a member of the Taylor & Francis Group, the academic division of T&F Informa, plc, [2018] | Includes bibliographical references and index. Identifiers: LCCN 2017026567 | ISBN 9781498796392 (hardback :acid-free paper) | ISBN 9781315156163 (ebook) Subjects: LCSH: Textile design. | Clothing and dress. Classification: LCC TS1475 .T45 2018 | DDC 667/.022--dc23 LC record available at https://lccn.loc.gov/2017026567 Visit the Taylor & Francis Web site at http://www.taylorandfrancis.com and the CRC Press Web site at http://www.crcpress.com Contents Editors ............................................................................................................................................vii Contributors ....................................................................................................................................ix 1. Introduction .............................................................................................................................1 Tom Cassidy and Parikshit Goswami 2. Fibers and Filaments ..............................................................................................................5 Tom O’Haire and Parikshit Goswami 3. Staple Yarns ...........................................................................................................................27 Tom Cassidy and Dian Li 4. Continuous Filament and Texturized Synthetic Yarns ................................................57 Arobindo Chatterjee 5. Fancy Yarns ............................................................................................................................87 Hugh Gong 6. Fiber and Filament Dyeing ...............................................................................................109 Asim Kumar Roy Choudhury 7. Woven Fabrics ......................................................................................................................143 Lindsey Waterton Taylor 8. Weft-Knitted Fabrics ..........................................................................................................195 Sandip Mukherjee 9. Warp-Knitted Fabrics ........................................................................................................227 Sadhan Chandra Ray and Mirela Blaga 10. Nonwoven Fabrics ..............................................................................................................259 Muhammad Tausif and Parikshit Goswami 11. Fabric Dyeing and Printing ..............................................................................................281 Asim Kumar Roy Choudhury 12. Color Knowledge ................................................................................................................333 Tracy Cassidy 13. Textile Finishing .................................................................................................................357 Andrew J Hebden and Parikshit Goswami v vi Contents 14. Clothing Technology .........................................................................................................375 Aileen Jefferson 15. Stitches and Seams .............................................................................................................401 John McLoughlin 16. Knitwear Design Technology ..........................................................................................441 Tracy Cassidy 17. The Measurement of Textile Material Properties ........................................................463 Riikka Räisänen 18. Textile and Clothing Consultancy ..................................................................................479 Tom Cassidy and Dian Li Index .............................................................................................................................................499 Editors Professor Tom Cassidy holds the chair of design in the University of Leeds, Leeds, United Kingdom. He holds four degrees (ATI, MSc, MBA, and PhD) and is a fellow of the Design Research Society (FRDS). He has been in education for 38 years following 9 years in the industry. He has carried out many consultancies, both nationally and internationally since the late 1970s, for agencies such as the UN, ODA, and Hong Kong Polytechnic University, King’s Park, Hong Kong. Professor Cassidy is a regular reviewer for the Textile Research Journal, Measurement Science and Technology, the Journal of the Textile Institute, and many other academic journals. He is on the editorial board of the Journal of Fiber Bioengineering and Informatics, Textile Progress, and the Journal of Global Fashion Marketing. He has super- vised 25 PhD students and 3 MPhil students to completion and is currently supervising 10 students. Professor Cassidy’s research interests are wide and span most areas of design technology and management with particular strengths in textile and clothing design tech- nology and education. He has held grants from the EPSRC and the AHRC for projects in design technology and design management. Professor Parikshit Goswami (BSc (Tech), MSc, PhD, MRSC, ASDC, C Col, ATI, CText) obtained a bachelor’s degree in textile technology and then worked within different industries, including a world leading third-party textile testing and quality certification company. Subsequently, he did his MSc in Advanced Textile and Performance Clothing and earned his PhD from the University of Leeds. Professor Goswami is presently the Head of Department of Fashion and Textiles at University of Huddersfield. Prior to join- ing University of Huddersfield, Professor Goswami was the Director of Research and Innovation at the School of Design, University of Leeds and he lead the Fibre and Fabric Functionalisation Research Group. Professor Goswami’s domains of research are product development using flexible materi- als and application of chemistry for functionalising textiles. Professor Goswami manages a large profile of research concerned with fibre/polymer science, nonwovens, medical tex- tiles (implantable materials and non-implantable materials), sustainable materials (fun- damentally understand the properties of new material), application and development of nano/submicron fibres for novel applications, and plasma treatment for functionalising textiles and textile chemistry.He is a member of Society of Dyers and Colourists (SDC), Education, Qualifications and Accreditation Board (EQAB), and was a member of EDANA’s Board Working Group on Sustainability. vii Contributors Mirela Blaga Aileen Jefferson Gheorghe Asachi Technical University Manchester Metropolitan University of Iaşi Manchester, United Kingdom Iaşi, Romania Dian Li Tom Cassidy School of Design School of Design University of Leeds University of Leeds Leeds, United Kingdom Leeds, United Kingdom John McLoughlin Tracy Cassidy Manchester Metropolitan University University of Huddersfield Manchester, United Kingdom Huddersfield, United Kingdom Sandip Mukherjee Arobindo Chatterjee National Institute of Fashion Technology Department of Textile Technology Kolkata, India Dr. B. R. Ambedkar National Institute of Technology Jalandhar Riikka Räisänen Jalandhar, India Craft Studies University of Helsinki Hugh Gong Helsinki, Finland School of Materials University of Manchester Sadhan Chandra Ray Manchester, United Kingdom University of Calcutta Kolkata, India Parikshit Goswami Head of Department Asim Kumar Roy Choudhury Department of Fashion and Textiles University of Huddersfield KPS Institute of Polytechnic Huddersfield, United Kingdom Government College of Engineering & Textile Technology Serampore Tom O’Haire Serampore, India Fibre and Fabric Functionalisation Research Group Muhammad Tausif School of Design Fibre and Fabric Functionalisation University of Leeds Research Group Leeds, United Kingdom School of Design University of Leeds Andrew J Hebden Leeds, United Kingdom Fibre and Fabric Functionalisation Group Lindsey Waterton Taylor School of Design School of Design University of Leeds University of Leeds Leeds, United Kingdom Leeds, United Kingdom ix
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