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Textbook of Cosmetic Dermatology PDF

607 Pages·2017·37.06 MB·English
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Textbook of Cosmetic Dermatology Series in Cosmetic and Laser Therapy Series Editors Nicholas J. Gary P. Lask, and David J. Goldberg Robert Baran and Howard Maibach, Textbook of Cosmetic Dermatology, Fifth Edition, ISBN 9781482223934 Philippe Deprez, Textbook of Chemical Peels, Second Edition: Superficial, Medium, and Deep Peels in Cosmetic Practice, ISBN 9781482223934 Jenny Kim, Gary Lask, and Andrew Nelson, Comprehensive Aesthetic Rejuvenation: A Regional Approach, ISBN 9780415458948 David J. Goldberg and Alexander L. Berlin, Disorders of Fat and Cellulite: Advances in Diagnosis and Treatment, ISBN 9780415477000 Neil S. Sadick, Paul J. Carniol, Deborshi Roy, and Luitgard Wiest, Illustrated Manual of Injectable Fillers: A Technical Guide to the Volumetric Approach to Whole Body Rejuvenation, ISBN 9780415476447 Kenneth Beer, Mary P. Lupo, and Vic A. Narurkar, Cosmetic Bootcamp Primer: Comprehensive Aesthetic Management, ISBN 9781841846989 Anthony Benedetto, Botulinum Toxins in Clinical Aesthetic Practice, Second Edition, ISBN 9780415476362 Robert Baran and Howard I. Maibach, Textbook of Cosmetic Dermatology, Fourth Edition, ISBN 9781841847009 Neil Sadick, Diane Berson, Mary P. Lupo, and Zoe Diana Draelos, Cosmeceutical Science in Clinical Practice, ISBN 9780415471145 Paul Carniol and Gary Monheit, Aesthetic Rejuvenation Challenges and Solutions: A Global Perspective, ISBN 9780415475600 Avi Shai, Robert Baran, Howard I. Maibach, Handbook of Cosmetic Skin Care, Second Edition, ISBN 9780415467186 Benjamin Ascher, Marina Landau, and Bernard Rossi, Injection Treatments in Cosmetic Surgery, ISBN 9780415386517 David J. Goldberg, Laser Hair Removal, Second Edition, ISBN 9780415414128 Paul J. Carniol and Neil S. Sadick, Clinical Procedures in Laser Skin Rejuvenation, ISBN 9780415414135 C. William Hanke, Gerhard Sattler, and Boris Sommer, Textbook of Liposuction, ISBN 9781841845326 David J. Goldberg, Fillers in Cosmetic Dermatology, ISBN 9781841845098 Textbook of Cosmetic Dermatology Fifth Edition Edited by Robert Baran, MD Nail Disease Center Cannes, France Howard I. Maibach, MD Department of Dermatology University of California San Francisco, School of Medicine San Francisco, California, U.S.A. CRC Press Taylor & Francis Group 6000 Broken Sound Parkway NW, Suite 300 Boca Raton, FL 33487-2742 © 2017 by Taylor & Francis Group, LLC CRC Press is an imprint of Taylor & Francis Group, an Informa business No claim to original U.S. Government works Printed on acid-free paper International Standard Book Number-13: 978-1-4822-5734-2 (Pack - Book and Ebook) This book contains information obtained from authentic and highly regarded sources. While all reasonable efforts have been made to publish reliable data and information, neither the author[s] nor the publisher can accept any legal responsibility or liability for any errors or omissions that may be made. The publishers wish to make clear that any views or opinions expressed in this book by individual editors, authors or contributors are personal to them and do not necessarily reflect the views/opinions of the publishers. The information or guidance contained in this book is intended for use by medical, scientific or health-care professionals and is provided strictly as a supplement to the medical or other professional’s own judgement, their knowledge of the patient’s medical history, relevant manufacturer’s instructions and the appropriate best practice guidelines. Because of the rapid advances in medical science, any information or advice on dosages, procedures or diagnoses should be independently verified. The reader is strongly urged to consult the relevant national drug formulary and the drug companies’ and device or material manufacturers’ printed instructions, and their websites, before administering or utilizing any of the drugs, devices or materials mentioned in this book. This book does not indicate whether a particular treatment is appropriate or suitable for a particular individual. Ultimately it is the sole responsibility of the medical professional to make his or her own professional judgements, so as to advise and treat patients appropriately. The authors and publishers have also attempted to trace the copyright holders of all material reproduced in this publication and apologize to copyright holders if permission to publish in this form has not been obtained. If any copyright material has not been acknowledged please write and let us know so we may rectify in any future reprint. Except as permitted under U.S. Copyright Law, no part of this book may be reprinted, reproduced, transmitted, or utilized in any form by any electronic, mechanical, or other means, now known or hereafter invented, including photocopying, microfilming, and recording, or in any information storage or retrieval system, without written permission from the publishers. For permission to photocopy or use material electronically from this work, please access www.copyright.com (http://www.copyright.com/) or contact the Copyright Clearance Center, Inc. (CCC), 222 Rosewood Drive, Danvers, MA 01923, 978-750-8400. CCC is a not-for-profit organization that provides licenses and registration for a variety of users. For organizations that have been granted a photocopy license by the CCC, a separate system of payment has been arranged. Trademark Notice: Product or corporate names may be trademarks or registered trademarks, and are used only for identification and explanation without intent to infringe. Visit the Taylor & Francis Web site at http://www.taylorandfrancis.com and the CRC Press Web site at http://www.crcpress.com Contents Contributors . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..ix Section I: Skin Science and Parameters 1. Skin Physiology and Gender ..........................................3 Ethel Tur 2. Climatic Influence on Cosmetic Skin Parameters .......................16 Mathias Rohr and Andreas Schrader 3. Transepidermal Water Loss ...........................................28 Jan Kottner and Annika Vogt 4. Nail Penetration .....................................................32 Rania Elkeeb, Xiaoying Hui, and Howard I. Maibach Section II: Pharmacology of Cosmetic Products and Ingredients 5. Sensitive Skin: New Findings Yield New Insights ......................45 Miranda A. Farage and Howard I. Maibach 6. Organic Acids with Novel Functions: Hydroxy, Bionic, N-acetylamino Acids and N-acylpeptide Derivatives ..................................56 Ruey J. Yu and Eugene J. Van Scott 7. Retinyl Propionate and Related Retinoids ..............................71 John E. Oblong 8. Idebenone (Hydroxydecyl Ubiquinone) ................................76 Birgit A. Neudecker, Falko Diedrich, and Howard I. Maibach 9. Antioxidants ........................................................80 Frank Dreher 10. Topical Retinol: An Efficacious Solution for Improvement of Main Photodamage Signs ............................................88 Christiane Bertin and Thierry Oddos 11. Applications of Non-Denatured Soy in Skin Care .......................93 Jue-Chen Liu, Jeff Wu, and Miri Seiberg 12. Kinetin ............................................................113 Stanley B. Levy 13. Urokinase and Plasmin in Dry Skin and Skin Aging ...................117 Yuji Katsuta 14. Ceramides and the Skin .............................................123 David J. Moore, Clive R. Harding, and Anthony V. Rawlings vi CONTENTS 15. 4-Hexyl-1,3-Phenylenediol, an NF-kB Inhibitor, Improving Clinical Signs of Aging .............................................143 Cécilia Brun, Simarna Kaur, Michael D Southall, Christiane Bertin, and Thierry Oddos 16. Perfumes ..........................................................148 Jeanne Duus Johansen 17. Alternative and Natural Treatments in Dermatology ...................153 Daniel Oxman and Cheryl Levin Section III: Non-Pathological Skin Treatments 18. Skin Care Products for Normal, Dry, and Greasy Skin .................167 Christine Lafforgue, Céline Try, Laurence Nicod, and Philippe Humbert 19. Self-Tanning Products ..............................................174 Stanley B. Levy 20. Astringents, Masks, and Ancillary Skin Care Products .................178 Zoe Diana Draelos 21. Regulatory Overview of Cosmeceuticals ..............................182 Lauren A. Hassoun, Howard I. Maibach, and Raja K. Sivamani 22. Photodamage: Protection ............................................185 Laurent Meunier 23. Photodamage and Skin Cancer: How Successful Are Sunscreens as a Means of Prevention? ...............................................193 Xinyi Du and Douglas Maslin 24. Photodamage: Protection and Reversal with Topical Antioxidants .......199 Karen E. Burke 25. Actinic Keratosis ...................................................214 Brigitte Dréno 26. Safety of UV Nail Lamps as Used in Professional Nail Salons ...........220 Douglas Schoon Section IV: Specific Locations and Conditions 27. Hair Care ..........................................................227 John Gray 28. Dandruff and Seborrheic Dermatitis .................................248 James R. Schwartz and Thomas L. Dawson, Jr. 29. The Periorbital Wrinkle .............................................259 Martin R. Green 30. Cosmetology for Normal Nails .......................................264 Robert Baran and Douglas Schoon 31. Cosmetics for Abnormal and Pathological Nails .......................276 Douglas Schoon and Robert Baran 32. Evaluating Hand and Body Lotions ...................................287 F. Anthony Simion 33. Anticellulite Products and Therapies .................................308 Enzo Berardesca CONTENTS vii 34. Therapy of Telangiectasia and Varicose Veins and Their Complications ..312 Christian R. Halvorson, Robert A. Weiss, and Margaret A. Weiss 35. Management of Hirsutism and Hypertrichosis ........................321 Ralph M. Trüeb and Daisy Kopera 36. Pigmentation: Dyschromia ..........................................330 Thierry Passeron and Jean-Paul Ortonne 37. Treatment of Keloids ................................................349 Joshua E. Lane 38. Keratolytic Treatment of Acne .......................................360 Brigitte Dréno 39. Hidradenitis Suppurativa ...........................................369 Emil Knudsen List and Gregor B.E. Jemec Section V: Specific Groups 40. Age-Related Changes in Male Skin ..................................377 Stefanie Lübberding and Nils Krüger 41. Ethnic Cosmetics ...................................................384 Enzo Berardesca 42. Ethnic Variation in Hair .............................................390 Nina Otberg 43. Ethnic Differences in Skin Properties ................................398 Rishu Gupta and Howard I.Maibach 44. Changes in Female Hair with Aging: New Understanding and Measures ..413 Paradi Mirmirani, R. Scott Youngquist, and Thomas L. Dawson, Jr. 45. Menopause, Skin, and Cosmetology ..................................424 Michel Faure and Evelyne Drapier-Faure Section VI: Cosmetological Treatments 46. Mesotherapy .......................................................431 Maria Pia De Padova, Gabriella Fabbrocini, Sara Cacciapuoti, and Antonella Tosti 47. Microneedles and Cosmetics. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .436 Raja K. Sivamani and Howard I. Maibach 48. Photodynamic Therapy in Dermatology ..............................442 Jacques Savary 49. Cosmetic Cryotherapy ..............................................450 Eshini Perera, Poorna Weerasinghe, and Rodney Sinclair 50. Botulinum Toxins ..................................................459 Doris Hexsel 51. Soft Tissue Augmentation ...........................................473 Kathleen Sikora Viscusi and C. William Hanke 52. Bioelectricity and Its Application in Cosmetic Dermatology ............481 Ying Sun and Jue-Chen Liu 53. Chemical Peels .....................................................498 Philippe Deprez viii CONTENTS 54. Lasers and Light Sources for Vascular and Pigmented Components of Photoaging ......................................................510 Anne Marie Mahoney and Robert A. Weiss 55. Nonablative Laser Rejuvenation .....................................519 Christian R. Halvorson, Karen L. Beasley, and Robert A. Weiss 56. Cryolipolysis for Non-Surgical Fat Reduction .........................535 Christine C. Dierickx Section VII: Assessment Techniques 57. Using the Behind-the-Knee Test to Evaluate Lotion Transfer from Products to Skin ...............................................551 Miranda A. Farage 58. Assessing the Efficacy of Moisturizers ................................561 Whitney Hannon Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 585 Contributors Robert Baran Nail Disease Center, Cannes, France Karen L. Beasley Department of Dermatology, University of Maryland School of Medicine, Baltimore, Maryland; and Maryland Laser, Skin & Vein Institute, Hunt Valley, Maryland Enzo Berardesca San Gallicano Dermatological Institute, Rome, Italy Christiane Bertin Johnson & Johnson Group of Consumer Companies, Skin Care Research Institute, Issy les Moulineaux, France Cécilia Brun Johnson & Johnson Skin Research Center, Johnson & Johnson Santé Beauté France, Val de Reuil, France Karen E. Burke Department of Dermatology, The Mount Sinai Medical Center, New York, New York Sara Cacciapuoti Department of Dermatology, University of Naples, Napoli, Italy Thomas L. Dawson, Jr. Agency for Science, Technology, and Research (A*STAR), Institute of Medical Biology, Singapore Philippe Deprez Clinica HERA, Empuriabrava, Spain Falko Diedrich Private practice, München, Germany Christine C. Dierickx Skinperium Clinic, Boom, Belgium Zoe Diana Draelos Department of Dermatology, Duke University School of Medicine, Durham, North Carolina Frank Dreher NEOCUTIS, a Division of MERZ North America, Inc., San Mateo, California Brigitte Dréno Department of Dermatology, University Hospital Hotel Dieu, Nantes, France Xinyi Du University of Cambridge, Cambridge, United Kingdom Rania Elkeeb Department of Dermatology, University of California, San Francisco, San Francisco, California Gabriella Fabbrocini Department of Dermatology, University of Naples, Napoli, Italy Miranda A. Farage The Procter and Gamble Company, Cincinnati, Ohio Evelyne Drapier-Faure Edouard Herriot Hospital, Lyon, France Michel Faure Department of Dermatology, University of Orléans, Orléans, France John Gray Procter & Gamble Technical Centres Limited, Egham, United Kingdom

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This text documents the science that lies behind the expanding field of cosmetic dermatology so that clinicians can practice with confidence and researchers can be fully aware of the clinical implications of their work. New chapters have been added to this edition on photodamage, actinic keratoses,
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