Tehran: Past & Present is the first -i'FiE:FFi'l. volume, in English along with an abstract in Farsi. of a series of books introducing various aspects of life, art and the architecture of the capital city of Iran . Despite the fact that there is evidence of dwellings dating back to 3000 years ago in this location and the huge population it holds today which makes it top the list of the world's metropolises, Tehran is a fairly young city compared to other cities in Iran . If Isfihan is hailed as the majestic capital city of Iran during the Safavid period, Tehran, with all its intricacies and delicacies in architecture, culture and art. was the capital city of the Oajar Dynasty and enjoys significant importance in the transition from the past to ilJ the present. It An outstanding feature of this book is making use of pictures along w ith captions and accompanying articles portraying the historical and cultural ups and downs of the past two hundred years of this city along with an introduction of the trad itions. rites. religious ceremonies. market places and bazaars. houses. temples. palaces. architectural ornamentations. and the nature and landscape encircling the cityscape. all of which mysteriously are proof of an underlying life full of passion and variety of forms in all these phenomena. The integrated harmony that can be seen beyond the facades of the architectures and sights are evidence of the solidarity of the elements comprising the culture of Iran and the spirituality of its people. We sincerely hope that this book is a first step towards introducing the capital of this ancient land. H.R.Norouzi Talab In The Name of God 1. Tile on the entrance to an old house in the vicinity of ' Gozarre Loot iye Saaleh' in Molavi neighborhood. 2002 . .).1 ~.l...i ($1 ~L;.. (S.lJjJ.)..I.>-'-'" ~1.S: . \ \" A \ '(S)"'" <.h.. e-lL.o.)o) J~ .)1.". One of a pair of matching metal lions on the portico of 'Baharestan' mansion from Pahlavi I period, today posted at the entrance to the' Old Majlis' building. 2002 . uJL.c JO J-"' <s.>-li '~.,. ~ JO jI ~ <s.J4 ,:,.,:osl ~ J~I <sJ4i ~JJo J~i jI ,:,l;....J~ I TEHRAN: Past & Present A Glance at the features of Life, Art and Architecture I (~JL.u,.., J ~ ,~~j ~I.A~ ~) Compiler and Executive Manager: Hamid Reza Norouzi Talab YASSAVOLI P l B l I <- \ I I 0 '\ ') I TEHRAN: Past & Present A Glance at the features of Life, Art and Architecture ~ (SjJJY L..:. J~ :<.>-'I.?-I->=,;.. "....il:'" Compiler and Executive Manager: Hamid Reza Norouzi Talab I".li.o ~I~ ($.>f. ($J~ \.,> With the assistance of Kobra Abdollahi Moghaddam ':"'~ u~ :~I~ ~I)o Art Director & Graphic designer: Bijan Jenab (SJ;£' wlJ :.~I '-:> <.S"""Ju.)I .:;;.......,...,:; English Tra~slation of Texts: Dana Gharavi ~;i ~ : ~I':;;" ";",1->=",, L...~ (~.....,...,:; English Translation of Photo Captions and final Editing: Ali Farzi (SJ~I.:.IJt.... FlS :<.S"""Ju J G.....I->=" Persian editor: Kazem Sadate Eshkevari (SJ~ .:.il~ :,)~ l.'; 0 1,.>tb.)l:WU; ~y...:.";.,, ~I)o Farsi & English Calligraphy of the title: Sedaghat Jabbari '''JJ~~I .'':'~~lu~lAA>·''JWjl(SJ~~ .~~ :~J($L...~ Color Photographs by: Ali Matin, Sa'id M. Aznavh, H. Amir yeganeh, Afshin Bakhtiar, ". ~IJL.....JJW 'JJ:1u::.:.IJ~I.~~J~ : l!>jy~J":;""'1 Lorca Photo Studio: Mass'ud Ma'sumi, Asghar Daneshpoor, Nader Samavati ~J~ .:.1}. .. ::.:o:.I~} : ~,,"~ ($L...~ Black & White Photographs: Yassavoli Publications' archive. ~"s ~I;i :.s.;j ~ Color Seprations: Farayand Goya U:';il~ : u-'I~,AJ Lithography: Naghsh Afarin ~ ~Ju... : ",,4- Print House: Setareh .. ye .. Sabz <G.......:. f' . ... 'iA r :J"I ",,4- ©2008 by Yassavoli Publications , Tehran. WA-Vf-f·r-fV-Y :.s..,.L!. ISBN: 978. . 964. . 306 .. 396-2 IITV . w.~~ ,~<sjJ~"" . (<SJt...... J ,;... ,";''>'j <sLA.".b.),:,I".. \j 01~ jI Tehran: past & present. glance at features of life, art and architecture ..,..ul~ <sfo. <s~l$....& ~ ~<sjJJ"" w.~~ ...,:I,r.>-I .;; ..... " JJ';' .~I -,-","~li .~ ,~~ 'V'" Y· f.\'r'Af ',)J~ :01~ ,\".li.o .Y·r-Y. . 'U'" : ...~ t:;S ISBN: 978-964-306-396-2 .\.& ",,~)lJ.1 ...,..L..I.;; c.s'"":!,.,.u..->+, .<sfo. ,\".li.o ..,..ul~ .JJI .~). . ~\j1--01~ .Y .~~\j --01~ .\ 'OO/ H DSR y. V,/.JJ\v 0'0 r"0-\ ·ffVO· ~J~ .:.IJw.:.:.1 : ~l:. Published by: Yassavoli Publications. ",l:>S ~I->="L....,u J':;;".)I ($)Jy'"-* -UfijA . .:........1 .J;~ ~l:. ($Iy' J.,b. ....... t...,:; Al l rights reseNed. no parts of this publication nor the pictures there in may be used. reproduced. stored ~:;~ .::...i~jJ '-:> .by.. uiL~ " r'=-' ,,,, !:is: jJ .JI..i:>.....I .u....,. .)I01~ jA":;"""':; in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical. photocopying, . .:........1....il:,..,,~l:..)1 recording or otherwise, without the written consent and permission of the publisher. I Acknowledgment We would like to express our gratitude to all those who have knowingly or otherwise, helped us compile and complete this book especially: The Iranology Foundation, International Center for Dialog among Civilizations, Muhammad Kassie-Zadeh, Mohessen tehrani-Zadeh PhD, Prof. Abdollah Anvar, Eskandar Mokhtar Ph.D ( National Heritage Organization, Tehran), Chahryar ADLE, Iran's National Heritage Organization Archives, Ministry of Islamic Culture and Guidance, Tehran's Police Department. The Armed Forces Organization, Public Relations Office of the Police Department, The respecable managers of 'Golestan', 'Sad Abad', and "Niavaran' Palaces, Tehran's Society of Zoroastrians, The Armenian Prelacy of Tehran, Tehran's Jewish Society, Tehran's Evangelical Churches, The Faculty of Arts ofTehran University, Tehran University's Security Committee, IJbrary of Iran's national Museum, The Public Relations Office of the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, The Public Relations Office of Melli Bank, The Public Relations Office of 'Hazrate Abdol Azim', Tehran Owqaf Organization, Tehran's Municipality Art & Culture Organization, The Society for the Appreciation of Cultural Works and Dignitaries, Public Relations Office of the Post Company, Managers of Museums under Mostazafan Foundation, Public Relations Office and Cultural Affairs section of the Islamic Parliament, The Academy of Art, British Embassy, Italian Embassy, Public Relations Office of Metro Company, Public Relations Office of the Expeditors Council of the Islamic Republic, Public Relations Office of'Shahid Motahari' school, Public Relations Office of Iran's telecommunications Ministry, 'Baghe Negarestan' . Thanks are also due to Reza, Mahmoud and Javad Yassavoli for their providing the essential resources, technical supervision and fantastic management, which made it possible to publish the first volume of Tehran series. I would like to especially thank my colleagues in the technical and executive affairs: Majid Zahedi ,Maryam Khanmoha.mmadi ,Leila Mansouri, Sonia Rezapour, Mahdi Khosrow - abadi and Ma'soumeh Oavidel and many more who might have skipped our memory. <.lJ1~ J~I ,oJIj "';1.* ~ y$J ,.Jlj ~W .l.=.<> ,4-':; iS~..,-lW1 ~ fiY' ,. . ~IY-I J~ ~.,. .:.1>-,"" .$).1.o,J J~I fiY' ,J'" .)~~ . (ul.* u~I~.,. .:.1>-,"") is.)tu.. .)..&...1 y$J ,)",1 uL.jL.. , -S.)y' ul.* <I"U;:;.;I ...... .;;L..,. '<I")l..1 JL!.),J &A.,. u)j,J ..r.~j),J u.)\.l;U JS .)JI ,.)Y1S ,ul.),Jl.,U ,JLT ......... iSLAtlS uly-.1.o '<I"LJ;:u1 iSLA,J~ ul.i.AU,J <I"~ ~I,J') ,c;-k-o iSLA,J~ .)~T J.,;.;.,. ,ul.* ~I iS~ iSl.)~ ,ul.* u~ ~I ,ul.* wi) iS~ ti:h ,ul.* u~.)j ~I 'u~ ul.i.AU,J <I"~ ~I,J') 'u1y-1 ~ .jj" <G~GS ,."... .~IJ .::....I,? ,ul.* .~IJ iS~j iSLA."... <.>":!J.>/ <......a.., uG......T <I"~ ~I,J') 'u1y-1 ~ &~ <I"~ ~I,J') 'iSj.),Jw.s Jlt-;. u)j,J , ~.)ld...)j"1 u.)lj,J 'u1y-1 ~ y"li.,J .)~T ~I ,ul.* is)J~ is''''''~''' uL.jL. , . u,J1 uL.jL. ,~I~ u~ iSl.)~ ~ <I"~ ~I,J'),J~'" .)j"1 'u~ J~ iSLA .jj" U-:!y-.1.o ,~ .:.s:~ <I"~ ~I,J') ~ <I"~ ~I,J.) ',J;:"'.:.s:~ <I"~ ~I,J') ,~~I u.)li.... ,ut.:......K;1 u)_A. .. ,."... u~'" '<I")l..1 .dy'~u)j,J<I"~~I,J') '(')'\'~)iS.;+J...~.)k""".).1.o<I"~~I,J.) ,t\.l;U~~ ... ,J u~.)~ i:... ~ U-:!y-.1.o ~ .)W;;;I .:,l!:..I";" u.)u;;,J ~y'.1.o,J t:''\' to't... ~i:; ~.s: .),J~ A-"",J J~ , w,.):,1 .:,I,JI"; '-"'~ ~ j .":'J'),JI ~I"; I.) .:,1,* '-"~:,I ~ 'is.)~ ~,.).>/w,.) LuJ"'" ' is''''''' uL;. i""'J-O' is. .... l:, ~ : ",1..>;"1 j";" ')J-"I.)J..jJ~ .:,I)~. ... :,I ,-,,,It-- L.Ji' j . J->;,.,i <.."..,.... ,J iSJ~ 1j ~ is-'t-- Contents <...u. 10 Preface ,:,I.>el ~l:;..,L ~jY"' 16 The Ancient Land of Iran (Persia) ,:,I.>el ~l.t ,,:,1.* 22 Tehran - the Capital City of Iran ,:,1.*JJ~"'j 30 Administrative, Financial and Cultural Capital ~JG <su, 0J"J JJ ,:,1.* 46 Tehran in the Course of History ~~I:I.),J,j 50 Tehran in the Safavid Period "=~j.J~.)~I:")J..I 54 Tehran in the Afghan Invasion and the Afshar and Zand Periods ~.)~ljb')JJ 58 Tehran - Capital of the Early Oajar Kings <s~oJ"J 68 Tehran in the reign of Reza Shah - the First King of the Pahlavi Dynasty j".>"I,:,I.* 76 Tehran after the Islamic Revolution ,:,1.*<su,,:,I~ 86 The Squares and Plazas of Tehran ,:,1.* '-'"""="" <su,,:,I~ 88 Historic Squares and Plazas JLiu-=-,:,I~ 90 Hassan Abad Square ot...;,i:.~,:,I~ 92 Bagh-e Shah Race Course .s),:,I~ 94 Arg Square <G~.. Y-u-I .,_.. . 96 Tupkhaneh (Artillery) Square Wl~b~ 100 Sabzeh Meydan tl-"'I,:,I~ 102 E'dam (Execution) Square ..J.:~,:,I~ 104 Tajrish Square <SJI),:,I~ 106 Azadi Square uI.>+')j~ 110 The Bazaar o f Tehran ,:,1.* ~ ~JG <su,~ 124 Tehrans Palaces and Pavilions ,:,~tlS: 124 The Golestan Palace Complex J~i~tlS: 140 Sa'd Abad Palace Complex (,:,IJ"~) ,,=,I~L., tIS: 146 The Niavaran and Sahebqaranieh Palace Complex .>".>"tlS: 154 The Marmar Palace (~tlS:)J~u:.h].....tlS: 156 Saltanat Abad Palace ,:,l:;..,J~ t="" i:. L <G~"p 158 The Howzkhaneh of the Negarestan Gardens J~ u~";;:'~ o~ u)_,,<. 160 Eshrat Abad Palace U""J~ i:. ~ uJL..<. 162 Bagh e Ferdows ";'i:. ~ J JY"' 166 The Bagh-e Melli Garden and Portico '-'"""="" <su, <GL;. 170 The Old Mansions of Tehran ~tL.1 <GL;. 172 The Emam e Jom'eh House <.I"JJI tl"'; <GL;. 174 The Oavam od-Dowleh House <.I"JJI~ <GL;. 176 The Moshir od-Dowleh House J-'" J,.,.....J~ <GL;. 178 The Professor Adl House ..;. JGi ~I uJL..<. 180 The Building of the Cultural Treasures and Personages Society (-s...;.,.,s) 'j1",L. ,:,L.::.O..L. 182 The Mandala (Kushk) Building SJL....JI ..... y....uJL..<. 184 The Mostowfi ol-Mamalek House <GhW1 t I"'; <GL;. 186 The Oavam os-Saltaneh House <Gl.L..J1 tk 1~ L;. 188 The A'iam-os-Saitaneh House .L!.'jl ~y, ~L;. 190 The Mo'tamen-ol-Atebba House ~I.u JJL., ~L;. 192 The Sadegh Hedayat 's House ,:,1.* '-'"""="" <su, <GL;. jI <f-u,<G~ 194 Some Other Masions in Tehran .>e"L...:;~1. 200 Source of Illustrations (o..,}: ) ~l. 20 1 Bibliography ,:,L..~ 202 Photographers & Source of Photographs 4. Tehran 1858 .J \ we <,I..>t> 5. Tehran 1890 .JIr·" ,0'-* 8 \"W