Tartine Book No. 3: Modern Ancient Classic Whole PDF
Preview Tartine Book No. 3: Modern Ancient Classic Whole
For A DESIGN JULIETTE CEZZAR EDITORIAL DIRECTION JESSICA BATTILANA BREAD RESEARCH AND DEVELOPMENT RICHARD HART PASTRY RESEARCH AND DEVELOPMENT LAURIE ELLEN PELLICANO Text copyright © 2013 by Chad Robertson. Photographs copyright © 2013 by Chad Robertson. All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced in any form without written permission from the publisher. Pages 328 to 329 constitute a continuation of the copyright page. Photo page 13 courtesy of Molly Decoudreaux. Photo page 102 courtesy of The Selby. Photo page 336 courtesy of Nadia Erwee. Photos of Chad in Germany courtesy of Kille Enna. ISBN 978-1-45212846-7 The Library of Congress has previously cataloged this title under ISBN 978-1-4521-1430-9 Valrhona is a registered trademark of Valrhona S.A. Kamut is a registered trademark of Kamut International, Ltd. Maldon salt is a registered trademark of Maldon Crystal Salt Company Limited. Designed by Juliette Cezzar / e.a.d. Chronicle Books LLC 680 Second Street San Francisco, California 94107 www.chroniclebooks.com CONTENTS Introduction Whole Grain Primer MASTER METHOD FOR TARTINE LOAVES BASIC BREADS White-Wheat Blend (Ode to Bourdon) Wheat-Rye 10% Wheat-Rye 20% Buckwheat with Toasted Groats & Crème Fraîche MASTER METHOD FOR POOLISH Spelt & Toasted Corn-Flour Baguettes ANCIENT GRAINS Kamut 60% Emmer/Einkorn Spelt-Wheat — DENMARK — SEEDED BREADS Sunflower-Flaxseed Seeded Wheat Sesame-Wheat Wheat-Rye-Caraway-Coriander — SWEDEN — HEARTH LOAVES WITH SPROUTED GRAINS MASTER METHOD FOR SPROUTING GRAINS Sprouted Einkorn Sprouted Purple Barley Sprouted Quinoa-Kamut Smoked Sprouted Rye Sprouted Kamut Sprouted Spelt Sprouted Amaranth Sprouted Buckwheat Sprouted Emmer with Maple & Beer RENÉ’S-STYLE PAN LOAVES MASTER METHOD FOR SPROUTED-GRAIN PAN LOAVES René’s Rye Toasted Barley Purple Barley Amazake Sprouted Buckwheat–Einkorn René’s Meta Loaf — GERMANY & AUSTRIA — PORRIDGE, CRACKED-, AND FLAKED-GRAIN BREADS MASTER METHOD FOR PORRIDGE BREADS MASTER METHOD FOR CRACKED-AND FLAKED-GRAIN BREADS Rye Porridge Kamut Porridge–Golden Flax Farro Porridge–Hazelnut Oat Porridge Barley Porridge–Flaxseed Cracked Corn Porridge Brown Rice Porridge Koji Porridge Toasted Millet Porridge Fermented Oat Double-Fermented Pumpernickel — FRANCE — CRISPBREADS MASTER METHOD FOR CRISPBREADS MASTER METHOD FOR FILLED CRISPBREADS Wheat-Spelt Crispbreads with Sesame & Fennel Seeds Wheat-Rye Crispbreads with Caraway René-style Crispbreads Buckwheat-Nori Crispbreads Oatmeal-Porridge Crispbreads Kamut Crispbreads — MEXICO — PASTRY Sugar Primer Cultured Dairy Primer: Soured Cream and Kefir Croquant d’Amandes Salted Chocolate–Rye Cookies Chamomile-Kamut Shortbread Pecan Shortbread Barley-Walnut-Fig Cookies Piloncillo-Nib Rochers Peanut Butter Cookies 50/50 Sablé Cookies Buckwheat-Hazelnut Sablés Cheddar Cheese Sablés Blue Cheese Sablés Sweet Pâte à Choux Dough Éclairs Pets de Nonnes Savory Pâte à Choux Dough Gougères Pommes Dauphines Zucchini-Kumquat Tea Cake Apple-Walnut Tea Cake Banana Tea Cake Lemon-Poppy-Kefir Pound Cake Fruit Scones Ham & Cheese Scones Buckwheat, Bergamot & Blood Orange Chiffon Cake Bohemian Apple Layer Cake Chocolate-Rye Roulade Chocolate-Rye Tart Buckwheat-Apple Tart Buckwheat Tart with Honey-Lemon Cream Cherry Galettes Inverted Spelt Puff Pastry Dough Palmiers Pithivier Paillettes Flammekuchen Golden Brioche Maple Sugar–Glazed Brioche Brioche Smoked Potato Buns Bostock Pistachio Frangipane Pistachio Nut Milk Nut Milk Pastry Cream Select Photo Index Acknowledgments Index Introduction Working on the manuscript for my first book, Tartine Bread, was relatively straightforward. Published in late 2010, I told my story of learning to make bread, the people I learned from, and how I adapted techniques to achieve a wide range of results, all while working within a system of self-imposed strictures that were important to me. It was the story of searching for a singular loaf with an “old soul”—a traditional natural-leavened bread with all the qualities I loved bound together in one loaf. The basic recipe, which the entire premise of the book was built upon, detailed how to make the basic Tartine country loaf at home. This bread, and all its variations, tilted toward whiter flour and a lighter- flavored loaf. The manuscript was delivered just as the home-baking movement seemed to reach critical mass. The young leaven method I have become known for, detailed in Tartine Bread, gave many home bakers and chefs the tools they needed to start making their own bread. Ambitious chefs were finally able to gain control over the quality, freshness, and character of the bread they wanted to serve with their food. In Paris in the late 1970s, Lionel Poilâne famously began a dedicated effort to restore the heart and soul—le vrai pain—to the bread of his native France. This marked the beginning of a shift in taste back toward traditional country breads. A generation later, bakers around the world, myself included, were following Poilâne’s lead. Poilâne did not traffic in baguettes; instead he was making a naturally leavened country miche (round loaf) using mostly high-extraction stone-milled wheat flour. Naturally leavened loaves are fermented slowly over a long period, resulting in breads with ancient depths of flavor that have been long forgotten. In doing so, he reintroduced the world to this revelation from the preindustrial French baking tradition. While France is arguably the birthplace of the most elegant naturally leavened style, these breads are now more widely available than ever. We see natural-leavened bread produced in places where it didn’t exist in the same way a decade ago, from London to Copenhagen, Stockholm to Tokyo, Lima to Tel Aviv. In light of the current trend toward naturally leavened bread, it was clearly time to force a creative push for our team at Tartine not only in our bread, but also with our classic Tartine pastry recipes. The year 2012 marked ten years since opening the bakery. Where could we take our recipes next? Could we make them taste even better while adding more nutrition? Respecting the foundation our reputation had been built on, the need to shift techniques and utilize new ingredients became the driving inspiration and challenge for this book. For many years I had focused my efforts and exploration on the process of natural fermentation and how far one could push it while still maintaining balanced flavors and ending with an aesthetically pleasing loaf. Initially, I used a few types of flour: some white and some dark whole grains, with differing levels of protein (gluten). From the beginning, I had preferred to make my own flour blends in order to attain the
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