Tailoring: The Classic Guide to Sewing the Perfect Jacket

501 Pages·2011·23.58 MB·English

by  Editors of CPi

THE CLASSIC GUIDE TO SEWING THE PERFECT JACKET
Tailoring

CONTENTS
How to Use This Book
MAKING SELECTIONS
The Standards of Tailoring
Selecting a Pattern
Selecting a Tailoring Fabric
Tailoring Plaids and Stripes
Interfacings for Tailoring
Selecting Linings
Special Notions for Tailoring
TIPS & TOOLS
Cutting & Marking Tools
Pressing Equipment
Tools & Stitches for Handwork
BEFORE YOU SEW
Getting a Good Fit
Preparing the Pattern
Preparing the Fabric
TAILORING TECHNIQUES
Constructing the Jacket
Tailoring a Notched Collar
Tailoring a Shawl Collar
Tailoring Pockets
Tailoring Sleeves
Tailoring Hems
FINISHING TECHNIQUES
Linings
Partially Lined Jackets
Topstitching
Buttons & Buttonholes
Resources
Index
HOW TO USE THIS BOOK
One of the most satisfying sewing projects is a tailored jacket or coat. Tailoring
takes you through the process step-by-step. It guides you in selecting the
tailoring method most appropriate for your fabric and pattern choice, as well as
for your skill level and available sewing time.
Most tailoring procedures are not difficult. Many are used in everyday
dressmaking, so progressing to a tailored garment is a natural step. Although
“tailored” usually implies a garment with notched collar and lapels and a lining,
many of the techniques used to create such a garment are also used in
constructing other jacket and coat styles, including unlined ones.
Custom tailoring was once the only technique for creating a professionally
tailored garment, but now the machine and fusible methods are natural choices
when faster, easier construction is desired. All three methods are included in
Tailoring with suggestions for where and how to use them alone or in
combination.
Making Selections
The first section of this book describes the three tailoring methods and explains
how to choose garment fabrics, interfacings, lining fabrics, and notions for
tailoring. Because some fabrics respond better to tailoring than others,
information is included to help you evaluate fabrics and choose only those that
are appropriate.
Interfacings and the methods used to apply them make the difference in the
appearance of a professionally tailored garment, so you will want to test new
techniques and interfacings before using them in a garment. If you choose
tailoring with fusible interfacings, be sure to review the fusing directions and the
guidelines for selecting and evaluating fusible interfacings.
Tips and Tools
Even if you feel confident about your sewing skills, take the time to review the
section on tips and tools before starting your tailoring project. Some of the hand
stitches used in tailoring may be new to you. Read about these stitches, and
practice those that are unfamiliar before using them in your jacket or coat.
Accurate cutting and marking, precise machine stitching, and careful
trimming and pressing are also required to create a beautifully tailored jacket or
coat. We have included a listing of the tools helpful for tailoring a garment. You
may already have most of these tools, so investment in new tools may be
minimal.
Before You Sew
Because a tailored jacket or coat is shaped to the body, you may need to adjust
the pattern to fit your figure. Tailoring includes fitting guidelines and directions
for pin-fitting the pattern and making a test garment to perfect the fit, along with
common fitting adjustments for tailored garments.
Professional tailors use specially shaped interfacing pieces to create support
and shaping in a tailored garment. Use the directions in this section to cut the
interfacing the way tailors do. To ensure that your garment fabric and
interfacings are compatible and that the finished garment will endure repeated
cleanings without shrinkage, follow the directions for preparing the fabric before
cutting and marking.
Tailoring and Finishing Techniques
Most pattern guidesheets are written according to space limitations, and the
instructions are generalized to cover a wide range of fabrics and skill levels. For
truly professional results, use the pattern instructions as a general guide and
supplement them with the more detailed instructions that are included in this
book.
The tailoring techniques are organized according to the sequence
recommended for constructing a tailored jacket and may vary from the order
usually given in the pattern guidesheet. The undercollar is tailored first to give
you an idea of how the fabric handles and an opportunity to practice unfamiliar
techniques on a smaller piece of fabric before proceeding to the lapels.
Custom tailoring methods are shown first, followed by the faster machine and
fusible methods. Even if you select one of the faster methods, read through the
custom method first for a better understanding of the shaping technique and
desired results. Regardless of the tailoring method you choose, the result will be
a beautifully tailored jacket or coat.
MAKING SELECTIONS
There are many choices to make as you begin any jacket or coat project.
Selecting a pattern is a good place to start. Browsing through the pattern books,
you will find many style options in the way the garment is meant to fit and the
level of detail work involved. With pattern in hand, your next selection, and
probably the most enjoyable one, will be the fabric. Choose high-quality fabric
for both the outer garment and lining that will be long-lasting and easy to work
with. The guidelines in this section will help you make this important decision.
Carefully consider your options for selecting interfacing and notions, too, as
these choices depend on the method of tailoring you want to follow.
THE STANDARDS OF TAILORING
Tailoring uses advanced techniques and materials to change a flat piece of fabric
into a three-dimensional garment with structure and shape. Tailored jackets and
coats are molded to body contours with interfacings to create permanent shape in
the collar and lapels. Shoulder pads, sleeve heads, and stay tape supplement the
interfacing for additional shaping and support. Careful pressing sets the new
shape. A lining or partial lining covers the inner construction to extend the wear
and to make the garment easier to slide on and off over other clothing.
Traditionally tailored jackets and coats are shaped and structured designs with
a notched or shawl collar. Most of the shaping that characterizes a tailored
garment is done in this area. But tailoring techniques are also important for
building in shape, adding support, and stabilizing other jackets and coat styles,
such as collarless cardigan jackets. Some jacket designs combine tailoring and
dressmaking techniques to achieve the softly tailored look intended by the
designer.
Tailoring Methods
Three methods are available for tailoring a garment: custom, machine, and
fusible. Custom tailoring requires the most handwork. Hand stitching, called