Switzerland : with the best hiking & ski resorts

508 Pages·2004·3.763 MB·English

by  Darwin Porter

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Switzerland
With the Best Hiking
& Ski Resorts
11th Edition
by Darwin Porter
& Danforth Prince
Here’s what the critics say about Frommer’s:
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About the Authors
Veteran travel writers Darwin Porterand Danforth Princehave written numerous
best-selling Frommer’s guides, notably to France, Italy, England, Germany, and
Spain. Porter, who was bureau chief for the Miami Heraldwhen he was 21 wrote
the first-ever Frommer’s guide to Spain while still a student. Prince, who began
writing with Porter in 1982, worked for the Paris bureau of the New York Times.
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Contents
List of Maps vii
What’s New in Switzerland 1
1 The Best of Switzerland 4
1 The Best Travel Experiences . . . . .4 9 The Best Festivals . . . . . . . . . . .13
2 The Best Scenic Drives . . . . . . . . .5 10 The Best Museums . . . . . . . . . .14
3 The Best Train Trips . . . . . . . . . . .6 11 The Best Luxury Hotels . . . . . . . .15
4 The Best Walks . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7 12 The Most Charming
5 The Best Bike Trips . . . . . . . . . . . .8 Small Hotels . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16
6 The Best Small Towns 13 The Best Restaurants . . . . . . . . .17
& Villages . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9 14 The Best Websites for
7 The Best Romantic Getaways . . .10 Switzerland . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19
8 The Best Skiing . . . . . . . . . . . . .10
2 Planning Your Trip to Switzerland 20
1 The Regions in Brief . . . . . . . . .20 9 Planning Your Trip Online . . . . . .38
Did You Know? . . . . . . . . . . . . .21 Frommers.com: The Complete
2 Visitor Information . . . . . . . . . . .24 Travel Resource . . . . . . . . . . . .39
3 Entry Requirements 10 The 21st-Century Traveler . . . . . .40
& Customs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24 Online Traveler’s Toolbox . . . . . .42
Destination Switzerland: 11 Getting There . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42
Red Alert Checklist . . . . . . . . . .25 12 Package Tours & Escorted
4 Money . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27 Tours . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .47
The Swiss Franc . . . . . . . . . . . .27 13 Special-Interest Trips . . . . . . . . .48
5 When to Go . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .29 Hornussen, Schwingen &
Switzerland Calendar of Waffenlaufen . . . . . . . . . . . . . .49
Events . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30 14 Getting Around . . . . . . . . . . . . .54
6 Travel Insurance . . . . . . . . . . . .32 15 Tips on Accommodations . . . . . .59
7 Health & Safety . . . . . . . . . . . . .33 16 Recommended Reading . . . . . .61
8 Specialized Travel Resources . . . .34 Fast Facts: Switzerland . . . . . . .61
3 Zurich 66
1 Orientation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .66 Fast Facts: Zurich . . . . . . . . . . .69
Neighborhoods in Brief . . . . . . .68 3 Where to Stay . . . . . . . . . . . . . .71
2 Getting Around . . . . . . . . . . . . .68 4 Where to Dine . . . . . . . . . . . . .81
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iv CONTENTS
5 Attractions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .94 Walking Tour 2: Zurich’s
Suggested Itineraries . . . . . . . . .95 Altstadt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .104
Frommer’s Favorite Zurich 6 Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .108
Experiences . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .101 7 Zurich After Dark . . . . . . . . . . .112
Walking Tour 1: Zurich’s 8 Side Trips from Zurich . . . . . . .115
Bahnhofstrasse . . . . . . . . . . . .102
4 Northeastern Switzerland 119
1 St.Gallen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .119 4 Stein-am-Rhein . . . . . . . . . . . .132
2 Appenzell . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .125 5 Schaffhausen &
3 Lake Constance . . . . . . . . . . . .128 the Rheinfall . . . . . . . . . . . . . .135
5 Basel & the Jura 139
1 Basel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .139 4 Gruyères . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .162
2 Solothurn . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .156 5 Murten . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .164
3 Fribourg . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .158 6 Neuchâtel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .167
6 Bern 171
1 Orientation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .171 5 Attractions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .184
Neighborhoods in Brief . . . . . .172 Walking Tour: Bern’s
2 Getting Around . . . . . . . . . . . .173 Altstadt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .187
Fast Facts: Bern . . . . . . . . . . . .174 6 Outdoor Pursuits . . . . . . . . . . .190
3 Where to Stay . . . . . . . . . . . . .175 7 Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .190
4 Where to Dine . . . . . . . . . . . .180 8 Bern After Dark . . . . . . . . . . . .192
7 The Bernese Oberland 194
1 Interlaken . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .196 3 Wengen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .214
The Murder of Sherlock 4 Grindelwald . . . . . . . . . . . . . .218
Holmes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .209 5 Kandersteg . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .226
2 Mürren . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .209 6 Gstaad . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .229
On the Trail of James Bond . . .210
8 The Valais 238
1 Verbier . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .239 3 Crans-Montana . . . . . . . . . . . .249
2 Sion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .247 4 Zermatt & the Matterhorn . . . .254
9 Lausanne & Lake Geneva 265
1 Lausanne . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .265 A Dramatic Ascent
To France by Lake Steamer . . . .269 to Les Diablerets . . . . . . . . . . .272
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CONTENTS v
2 Morges . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .279 5 Montreux . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .288
3 Nyon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .282 Montreux Jazz Festival . . . . . . .290
4 Vevey . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .283
10 Geneva 295
1 Orientation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .295 Did You Know . . . . . . . . . . . . .329
Neighborhoods in Brief . . . . . .297 Frommer’s Favorite Geneva
2 Getting Around . . . . . . . . . . . .297 Experiences . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .331
Fast Facts: Geneva . . . . . . . . .298 Walking Tour: Geneva’s
Quays & Old Town . . . . . . . . .332
3 Where to Stay . . . . . . . . . . . . .301
6 The Active Vacation Planner . . .337
4 Where to Dine . . . . . . . . . . . .311
7 Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .338
Cheese, Cheese & More
Cheese . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .319 The Land of Time . . . . . . . . . .342
5 Attractions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .325 8 Geneva After Dark . . . . . . . . . .343
Suggested Itineraries . . . . . . . .325 9 Easy Excursions from
Geneva . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .346
11 Lucerne & Central Switzerland 348
1 Lucerne . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .348 5 Brunnen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .377
Walking Tour: Lucerne . . . . . . .350 The Legend of William Tell . . . .378
2 Bürgenstock . . . . . . . . . . . . . .372 6 Altdorf . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .379
3 Weggis . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .373 7 Amsteg . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .380
4 Vitznau . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .375 8 Andermatt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .381
12 The Grisons 384
1 Chur . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .385 4 Davos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .401
2 Arosa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .390 Kirchner: The Tormented
3 Klosters . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .396 Genius . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .402
13 The Engadine 411
1 S-Chanf & Zuoz . . . . . . . . . . . .413 The Glacier Express . . . . . . . . .419
2 Samedan & Celerina . . . . . . . .415 4 Pontresina . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .432
3 St.Moritz . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .418 5 Silvaplana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .436
14 Lugano,Locarno & the Ticino 439
1 Bellinzona . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .440 4 Lugano . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .455
2 Locarno . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .443 5 Morcote . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .464
3 Ascona . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .449
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vi CONTENTS
15 Liechtenstein 467
1 About Liechtenstein . . . . . . . . .467 3 The Unterland . . . . . . . . . . . . .474
Fast Facts: Liechtenstein . . . . .469 4 The Oberland . . . . . . . . . . . . .476
2 Vaduz . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .470
Appendix:History 101 480
Dateline . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .481
Index 484
General Index . . . . . . . . . . . . .484 Accommodations Index . . . . . .494
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List of Maps
Switzerland & Liechtenstein 22 The Bernese Oberland 195
Where to Stay in Zurich 72 The Valais 241
Where to Dine in Zurich 82 Lausanne & Lake Geneva 267
Zurich Attractions 96 Where to Stay in Geneva 302
Walking Tour 1: Zurich’s Where to Dine in Geneva 312
Bahnhofstrasse 103
Geneva Attractions 326
Walking Tour 2: Zurich’s Altstadt
Walking Tour: Geneva’s Quays &
105
Old Town 333
Northeastern Switzerland 121
Walking Tour: Lucerne 351
Basel Attractions 143
The Grisons 387
Where to Stay in Basel 147
The Engadine 413
Where to Stay in Bern 177
Lugano, Locarno & the Ticino 441
Walking Tour: Bern’s Altstadt 189
Liechtenstein 469
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An Invitation to the Reader
In researching this book, we discovered many wonderful places—hotels, restaurants,
shops, and more. We’re sure you’ll find others. Please tell us about them, so we can share
the information with your fellow travelers in upcoming editions. If you were disappointed
with a recommendation, we’d love to know that, too. Please write to:
Frommer’s Switzerland, 11th Edition
Wiley Publishing, Inc. • 111 River St. • Hoboken, NJ 07030-5774
An Additional Note
Please be advised that travel information is subject to change at any time—and this is
especially true of prices. We therefore suggest that you write or call ahead for confirma-
tion when making your travel plans. The authors, editors, and publisher cannot be held
responsible for the experiences of readers while traveling. Your safety is important to us,
however, so we encourage you to stay alert and be aware of your surroundings. Keep a
close eye on cameras, purses, and wallets, all favorite targets of thieves and pickpockets.
Other Great Guides for Your Trip:
Frommer’s Europe
Frommer’s Road Atlas Europe
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and budget your time accordingly. Hotels and restaurants are rated on a scale of zero (rec-
ommended) to three stars (exceptional). Attractions, shopping, nightlife, towns, and
regions are rated according to the following scale: zero stars (recommended), one star
(highly recommended), two stars (very highly recommended), and three stars (must-see).
In addition to the star-rating system, we also use seven feature iconsthat point you
to the great deals, in-the-know advice, and unique experiences that separate travelers from
tourists. Throughout the book, look for:
Finds Special finds—those places only insiders know about
Fun Fact Fun facts—details that make travelers more informed and their trips
more fun
Kids Best bets for kids, and advice for the whole family
Moments Special moments—those experiences that memories are made of
Overrated Places or experiences not worth your time or money
Tips Insider tips—great ways to save time and money
Value Great values—where to get the best deals
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