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Sweet, Reinforced and Fortified Wines DEDICATEDTOOURFRIENDANDSCIENTIST,BERNARD BernardDone`che 1950–2012 Sweet, Reinforced and Fortified Wines Grape Biochemistry, Technology and Vinification Edited by Fabio Mencarelli DIBAF,UniversityofTuscia Viterbo,Italy Pietro Tonutti InstituteofLifeScience ScuolaSuperioreSant’Anna Pisa,Italy A John Wiley & Sons, Ltd., Publication Thiseditionfirstpublished2013(cid:2)C 2013byJohnWiley&Sons,Ltd Wiley-BlackwellisanimprintofJohnWiley&Sons,formedbythemergerofWiley’sglobalScientific,Technical andMedicalbusinesswithBlackwellPublishing. Registeredoffice: JohnWiley&Sons,Ltd,TheAtrium,SouthernGate,Chichester,WestSussex, PO198SQ,UK Editorialoffices: 9600GarsingtonRoad,Oxford,OX42DQ,UK TheAtrium,SouthernGate,Chichester,WestSussex,PO198SQ,UK 111RiverStreet,Hoboken,NJ07030-5774,USA Fordetailsofourglobaleditorialoffices,forcustomerservicesandforinformationabouthowtoapplyfor permissiontoreusethecopyrightmaterialinthisbookpleaseseeourwebsiteatwww.wiley.com/wiley-blackwell TherightoftheauthortobeidentifiedastheauthorofthisworkhasbeenassertedinaccordancewiththeUK Copyright,DesignsandPatentsAct1988. Allrightsreserved.Nopartofthispublicationmaybereproduced,storedinaretrievalsystem,ortransmitted,in anyformorbyanymeans,electronic,mechanical,photocopying,recordingorotherwise,exceptaspermittedby theUKCopyright,DesignsandPatentsAct1988,withoutthepriorpermissionofthepublisher. Designationsusedbycompaniestodistinguishtheirproductsareoftenclaimedastrademarks.Allbrandnames andproductnamesusedinthisbookaretradenames,servicemarks,trademarksorregisteredtrademarksoftheir respectiveowners.Thepublisherisnotassociatedwithanyproductorvendormentionedinthisbook.This publicationisdesignedtoprovideaccurateandauthoritativeinformationinregardtothesubjectmattercovered. LimitofLiability/DisclaimerofWarranty:Whilethepublisherandauthorhaveusedtheirbesteffortsinpreparing thisbook,theymakenorepresentationsorwarrantieswiththerespecttotheaccuracyorcompletenessofthe contentsofthisbookandspecificallydisclaimanyimpliedwarrantiesofmerchantabilityorfitnessforaparticular purpose.Itissoldontheunderstandingthatthepublisherisnotengagedinrenderingprofessionalservicesand neitherthepublishernortheauthorshallbeliablefordamagesarisingherefrom.Ifprofessionaladviceorother expertassistanceisrequired,theservicesofacompetentprofessionalshouldbesought. LibraryofCongressCataloging-in-PublicationData Sweet,reinforced,andfortifiedwines:grapebiochemistry,technology,andvinification/ [editedby]FabioMencarelli,PietroTonutti. pagescm Includesbibliographicalreferencesandindex. ISBN978-0-470-67224-2(cloth) 1.Wineandwinemaking–Chemistry. 2.Grapes. 3.Fortifiedwines. I.Mencarelli,F.(Fabio) II.Tonutti,P.(Pietro) TP548.S962013 663(cid:3).2–dc23 2012047725 AcataloguerecordforthisbookisavailablefromtheBritishLibrary. Wileyalsopublishesitsbooksinavarietyofelectronicformats.Somecontentthatappearsinprintmaynotbe availableinelectronicbooks. WewouldliketothankGillWhitleyforherlinguisticinput. Coverdesignbywww.hisandhersdesign.co.uk Setin10/12ptTimesbyAptara(cid:2)R Inc.,NewDelhi,India FirstImpression2013 Contents ListofContributors ix Glossary xiii Introduction 1 FabioMencarelliandPietroTonutti PART1 HISTORY 1 SweetWines:TheEssenceofEuropeanCivilization 5 AttilioScienza PART2 VINEYARDMANAGEMENT,ON-VINEANDPOSTHARVEST GRAPEDEHYDRATION,VINIFICATION 2 ManagementoftheVineyard 29 OsvaldoFailla,LauraRustioniandGiancarloScalabrelli 3 TechnologyandManagementofPostharvestDehydration 51 FabioMencarelliandAndreaBellincontro 4 BiochemistryandPhysiologyofDehydratingBerries 77 PietroTonuttiandClaudioBonghi 5 ChangesinVolatileCompounds 91 ClaudioD’Onofrio 6 ChangesinPhenolicCompounds 105 DaniloCorradiniandIsabellaNicoletti 7 ChangesinPhysicalandMechanicalPropertiesofDehydratingBerries 119 LucaRolleandVincenzoGerbi 8 ManagementofVinificationandStabilizationtoPreservetheAroma CharacteristicofDehydratedGrape 131 LuigiMoioandPaolaPiombino 9 MethodsofVinificationtoPreservetheColourinRedGrapePassitiWines. Aleatico:aCaseStudy 145 RiccardoCotarella vi Contents 10 RoleofYeastsinSweetWines 153 JuanC.Garc´ıa-MauricioandTeresaGarc´ıa-Mart´ınez 11 BotrytisInfection:GreyMouldandNobleRot 159 AndreaVanniniandGabrieleChilosi 12 VinificationandAromaCharacteristicofBotrytizedGrape 171 PierreLouisTeissedreandBernardDone`che PART3 THEWINES 13 Amarone 189 DanieleAccordini 14 MoscatoPassito 205 DanieleEberle 15 ItalianPassitoWines 215 AttilioScienza 16 PedroXime´nezandMalaga 251 JuanJ.Moreno-VigaraandJuanC.Garc´ıa-Mauricio 17 Tokaj 269 Zolta´nKere´nyi 18 VindePaille 277 PierreLouisTeissedre,BernardDone`cheandKleopatraChira 19 BotrytizedWines:Sauternes,GermanWines 285 PierreLouisTeissedreandBernardDone`che 20 IceWine 301 NikolinMusabelliu 21 Port 305 TimHogg 22 Marsala 319 AndreaZanfiandSilviaMencarelli 23 NotesonOtherSweetWines 327 FabioMencarelli Contents vii PART4 MARKETANDMARKETING 24 SweetWineMarket 333 RenzoCotarella 25 AStrategicFrameworkforMarketingSweet,Reinforcedand FortifiedWines 337 AlbertoMattiacciandCostanzaNosi AnalyticalIndex 351 GrapesandWineIndex 355 List of Contributors DanieleAccordini RiccardoCotarella CantinaValpolicellaNegrar FalescoWinery Negrar,Verona,Italy Montecchio,Terni,Italy Email:[email protected] Email:[email protected] AndreaBellincontro DIBAF,UniversityofTuscia BernardDone`che(deceased) Viterbo,Italy FacultyofOenology,Universite´ Bordeaux Email:[email protected] Segalen InstitutdesSciencesdelaVigneetduVin ClaudioBonghi Villenaved’Ornon,France DepartmentofAgronomy,Food,Natural Resources,AnimalsandEnvironment ClaudioD’Onofrio UniversityofPadova DepartmentofAgriculture,Foodand Legnaro,Padova,Italy Environment Email:[email protected] UniversityofPisa Pisa,Italy GabrieleChilosi Email:[email protected] DIBAF,UniversityofTuscia Viterbo,Italy Email:[email protected] DanieleEberle TerredavinoSpA KleopatraChira Barolo,Cuneo,Italy FacultyofOenology,Universite´ Bordeaux Email:[email protected] Segalen InstitutdesSciencesdelaVigneetduVin Villenaved’Ornon,France OsvaldoFailla Email:[email protected] DeptartmentofAgriculturaland EnvironmentalSciences DaniloCorradini UniversityofMilan NationalResearchCouncil(CNR)Institute Milan,Italy ofChemicalMethodologies Email:[email protected] Montelibretti,Rome,Italy Email:[email protected] TeresaGarc´ıa-Mart´ınez RenzoCotarella DepartmentofMicrobiology MarchesiAntinorisrl UniversityofCo´rdoba Firenze,Italy Co´rdoba,Spain Email:[email protected] Email:[email protected] x ListofContributors JuanC.Garc´ıa-Mauricio JuanJ.Moreno-Vigara DepartmentofMicrobiology DepartmentofAgriculturalChemistry UniversityofCo´rdoba UniversityofCo´rdoba Co´rdoba,Spain Co´rdoba,Spain Email:[email protected] Email:[email protected] VincenzoGerbi NikolinMusabelliu DIVAPRA–FoodTechnologySector Winemaker UniversityofTorino Toronto,Ontario,Canada Grugliasco,Torino,Italy Email:[email protected] Email:[email protected] IsabellaNicoletti TimHogg NationalResearchCouncil(CNR)Institute EscolaSuperiordeBiotecnologia ofChemicalMethodologies UniversidadeCato´licaPortuguesa Montelibretti,Rome,Italy Porto,Portugal Email:[email protected] Email:[email protected] CostanzaNosi DepartmentofManagementSciences Zolta´nKere´nyi UniversityRomaTre CorvinusUniversityofBudapest Rome,Italy InstituteVitivinicoleResearchStation Email:[email protected] Kecskeme´t Kecskeme´t,Hungary PaolaPiombino Email:[email protected] DepartmentofFoodScience UniversityofNaplesFedericoII AlbertoMattiacci Portici,Naples,Italy DepartmentofCommunicationand Email:[email protected] SocialResearch UniversityofRome,LaSapienza LucaRolle Rome,Italy DIVAPRA–FoodTechnologySector Email:[email protected] UniversityofTorino Grugliasco,Torino,Italy FabioMencarelli Email:[email protected] DIBAF,UniversityofTuscia Viterbo,Italy LauraRustioni Email:[email protected] DepartmentofAgriculturaland EnvironmentalSciences SilviaMencarelli UniversityofMilan Winepublicrelationsconsultant Milan,Italy Pisa,Italy Email:[email protected] Email:[email protected] GiancarloScalabrelli LuigiMoio DepartmentofAgriculture,Foodand DepartmentofFoodScience Environment UniversityofNaplesFedericoII UniversityofPisa Portici,Naples,Italy Pisa,Italy Email:[email protected] Email:[email protected] ListofContributors xi AttilioScienza PietroTonutti DepartmentofAgriculturaland InstituteofLifeScience EnvironmentalSciences ScuolaSuperioreSant’Anna UniversityofMilan Pisa,Italy Milan,Italy Email:[email protected] Email:[email protected] AndreaVannini DIBAF,UniversityofTuscia PierreLouisTeissedre Viterbo,Italy FacultyofOenology,Universite´ Bordeaux Email:[email protected] Segalen InstitutdesSciencesdelaVigne AndreaZanfi etduVin Winejournalist Villenaved’Ornon,France Grosseto,Italy Email:[email protected] Email:info@andreazanfi.it

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Sweet, Reinforced and Fortified Wines DEDICATEDTOOURFRIENDANDSCIENTIST,BERNARD BernardDone`che 1950–2012 Sweet, Reinforced and Fortified Wines Grape Biochemistry, Technology and Vinification Edited by Fabio Mencarelli DIBAF,UniversityofTuscia Viterbo,Italy Pietro Tonutti InstituteofLifeScience ScuolaSuperioreSant’Anna Pisa,Italy A John Wiley & Sons, Ltd., Publication Thiseditionfirstpublished2013(cid:2)C 2013byJohnWiley&Sons,Ltd Wiley-BlackwellisanimprintofJohnWiley&Sons,formedbythemergerofWiley’sglobalScientific,Technical andMedicalbusinesswithBlackwellPublishing. Registeredoffice: JohnWiley&Sons,Ltd,TheAtrium,SouthernGate,Chichester,WestSussex, PO198SQ,UK Editorialoffices: 9600GarsingtonRoad,Oxford,OX42DQ,UK TheAtrium,SouthernGate,Chichester,WestSussex,PO198SQ,UK 111RiverStreet,Hoboken,NJ07030-5774,USA Fordetailsofourglobaleditorialoffices,forcustomerservicesandforinformationabouthowtoapplyfor permissiontoreusethecopyrightmaterialinthisbookpleaseseeourwebsiteatwww.wiley.com/wiley-blackwell TherightoftheauthortobeidentifiedastheauthorofthisworkhasbeenassertedinaccordancewiththeUK Copyright,DesignsandPatentsAct1988. Allrightsreserved.Nopartofthispublicationmaybereproduced,storedinaretrievalsystem,ortransmitted,in anyformorbyanymeans,electronic,mechanical,photocopying,recordingorotherwise,exceptaspermittedby theUKCopyright,DesignsandPatentsAct1988,withoutthepriorpermissionofthepublisher. Designationsusedbycompaniestodistinguishtheirproductsareoftenclaimedastrademarks.Allbrandnames andproductnamesusedinthisbookaretradenames,servicemarks,trademarksorregisteredtrademarksoftheir respectiveowners.Thepublisherisnotassociatedwithanyproductorvendormentionedinthisbook.This publicationisdesignedtoprovideaccurateandauthoritativeinformationinregardtothesubjectmattercovered. LimitofLiability/DisclaimerofWarranty:Whilethepublisherandauthorhaveusedtheirbesteffortsinpreparing thisbook,theymakenorepresentationsorwarrantieswiththerespecttotheaccuracyorcompletenessofthe contentsofthisbookandspecificallydisclaimanyimpliedwarrantiesofmerchantabilityorfitnessforaparticular purpose.Itissoldontheunderstandingthatthepublisherisnotengagedinrenderingprofessionalservicesand neitherthepublishernortheauthorshallbeliablefordamagesarisingherefrom.Ifprofessionaladviceorother expertassistanceisrequired,theservicesofacompetentprofessionalshouldbesought. LibraryofCongressCataloging-in-PublicationData Sweet,reinforced,andfortifiedwines:grapebiochemistry,technology,andvinification/ [editedby]FabioMencarelli,PietroTonutti. pagescm Includesbibliographicalreferencesandindex. ISBN978-0-470-67224-2(cloth) 1.Wineandwinemaking–Chemistry. 2.Grapes. 3.Fortifiedwines. I.Mencarelli,F.(Fabio) II.Tonutti,P.(Pietro) TP548.S962013 663(cid:3).2–dc23 2012047725 AcataloguerecordforthisbookisavailablefromtheBritishLibrary. Wileyalsopublishesitsbooksinavarietyofelectronicformats.Somecontentthatappearsinprintmaynotbe availableinelectronicbooks. WewouldliketothankGillWhitleyforherlinguisticinput. Coverdesignbywww.hisandhersdesign.co.uk Setin10/12ptTimesbyAptara(cid:2)R Inc.,NewDelhi,India FirstImpression2013 Contents ListofContributors ix Glossary xiii Introduction 1 FabioMencarelliandPietroTonutti PART1 HISTORY 1 SweetWines:TheEssenceofEuropeanCivilization 5 AttilioScienza PART2 VINEYARDMANAGEMENT,ON-VINEANDPOSTHARVEST GRAPEDEHYDRATION,VINIFICATION 2 ManagementoftheVineyard 29 OsvaldoFailla,LauraRustioniandGiancarloScalabrelli 3 TechnologyandManagementofPostharvestDehydration 51 FabioMencarelliandAndreaBellincontro 4 BiochemistryandPhysiologyofDehydratingBerries 77 PietroTonuttiandClaudioBonghi 5 ChangesinVolatileCompounds 91 ClaudioD’Onofrio 6 ChangesinPhenolicCompounds 105 DaniloCorradiniandIsabellaNicoletti 7 ChangesinPhysicalandMechanicalPropertiesofDehydratingBerries 119 LucaRolleandVincenzoGerbi 8 ManagementofVinificationandStabilizationtoPreservetheAroma CharacteristicofDehydratedGrape 131 LuigiMoioandPaolaPiombino 9 MethodsofVinificationtoPreservetheColourinRedGrapePassitiWines. Aleatico:aCaseStudy 145 RiccardoCotarella vi Contents 10 RoleofYeastsinSweetWines 153 JuanC.Garc´ıa-MauricioandTeresaGarc´ıa-Mart´ınez 11 BotrytisInfection:GreyMouldandNobleRot 159 AndreaVanniniandGabrieleChilosi 12 VinificationandAromaCharacteristicofBotrytizedGrape 171 PierreLouisTeissedreandBernardDone`che PART3 THEWINES 13 Amarone 189 DanieleAccordini 14 MoscatoPassito 205 DanieleEberle 15 ItalianPassitoWines 215 AttilioScienza 16 PedroXime´nezandMalaga 251 JuanJ.Moreno-VigaraandJuanC.Garc´ıa-Mauricio 17 Tokaj 269 Zolta´nKere´nyi 18 VindePaille 277 PierreLouisTeissedre,BernardDone`cheandKleopatraChira 19 BotrytizedWines:Sauternes,GermanWines 285 PierreLouisTeissedreandBernardDone`che 20 IceWine 301 NikolinMusabelliu 21 Port 305 TimHogg 22 Marsala 319 AndreaZanfiandSilviaMencarelli 23 NotesonOtherSweetWines 327 FabioMencarelli Contents vii PART4 MARKETANDMARKETING 24 SweetWineMarket 333 RenzoCotarella 25 AStrategicFrameworkforMarketingSweet,Reinforcedand FortifiedWines 337 AlbertoMattiacciandCostanzaNosi AnalyticalIndex 351 GrapesandWineIndex 355 List of Contributors DanieleAccordini RiccardoCotarella CantinaValpolicellaNegrar FalescoWinery Negrar,Verona,Italy Montecchio,Terni,Italy Email:[email protected] Email:[email protected] AndreaBellincontro DIBAF,UniversityofTuscia BernardDone`che(deceased) Viterbo,Italy FacultyofOenology,Universite´ Bordeaux Email:[email protected] Segalen InstitutdesSciencesdelaVigneetduVin ClaudioBonghi Villenaved’Ornon,France DepartmentofAgronomy,Food,Natural Resources,AnimalsandEnvironment ClaudioD’Onofrio UniversityofPadova DepartmentofAgriculture,Foodand Legnaro,Padova,Italy Environment Email:[email protected] UniversityofPisa Pisa,Italy GabrieleChilosi Email:[email protected] DIBAF,UniversityofTuscia Viterbo,Italy Email:[email protected] DanieleEberle TerredavinoSpA KleopatraChira Barolo,Cuneo,Italy FacultyofOenology,Universite´ Bordeaux Email:[email protected] Segalen InstitutdesSciencesdelaVigneetduVin Villenaved’Ornon,France OsvaldoFailla Email:[email protected] DeptartmentofAgriculturaland EnvironmentalSciences DaniloCorradini UniversityofMilan NationalResearchCouncil(CNR)Institute Milan,Italy ofChemicalMethodologies Email:[email protected] Montelibretti,Rome,Italy Email:[email protected] TeresaGarc´ıa-Mart´ınez RenzoCotarella DepartmentofMicrobiology MarchesiAntinorisrl UniversityofCo´rdoba Firenze,Italy Co´rdoba,Spain Email:[email protected] Email:[email protected] x ListofContributors JuanC.Garc´ıa-Mauricio JuanJ.Moreno-Vigara DepartmentofMicrobiology DepartmentofAgriculturalChemistry UniversityofCo´rdoba UniversityofCo´rdoba Co´rdoba,Spain Co´rdoba,Spain Email:[email protected] Email:[email protected] VincenzoGerbi NikolinMusabelliu DIVAPRA–FoodTechnologySector Winemaker UniversityofTorino Toronto,Ontario,Canada Grugliasco,Torino,Italy Email:[email protected] Email:[email protected] IsabellaNicoletti TimHogg NationalResearchCouncil(CNR)Institute EscolaSuperiordeBiotecnologia ofChemicalMethodologies UniversidadeCato´licaPortuguesa Montelibretti,Rome,Italy Porto,Portugal Email:[email protected] Email:[email protected] CostanzaNosi DepartmentofManagementSciences Zolta´nKere´nyi UniversityRomaTre CorvinusUniversityofBudapest Rome,Italy InstituteVitivinicoleResearchStation Email:[email protected] Kecskeme´t Kecskeme´t,Hungary PaolaPiombino Email:[email protected] DepartmentofFoodScience UniversityofNaplesFedericoII AlbertoMattiacci Portici,Naples,Italy DepartmentofCommunicationand Email:[email protected] SocialResearch UniversityofRome,LaSapienza LucaRolle Rome,Italy DIVAPRA–FoodTechnologySector Email:[email protected] UniversityofTorino Grugliasco,Torino,Italy FabioMencarelli Email:[email protected] DIBAF,UniversityofTuscia Viterbo,Italy LauraRustioni Email:[email protected] DepartmentofAgriculturaland EnvironmentalSciences SilviaMencarelli UniversityofMilan Winepublicrelationsconsultant Milan,Italy Pisa,Italy Email:[email protected] Email:[email protected] GiancarloScalabrelli LuigiMoio DepartmentofAgriculture,Foodand DepartmentofFoodScience Environment UniversityofNaplesFedericoII UniversityofPisa Portici,Naples,Italy Pisa,Italy Email:[email protected] Email:[email protected] ListofContributors xi AttilioScienza PietroTonutti DepartmentofAgriculturaland InstituteofLifeScience EnvironmentalSciences ScuolaSuperioreSant’Anna UniversityofMilan Pisa,Italy Milan,Italy Email:[email protected] Email:[email protected] AndreaVannini DIBAF,UniversityofTuscia PierreLouisTeissedre Viterbo,Italy FacultyofOenology,Universite´ Bordeaux Email:[email protected] Segalen InstitutdesSciencesdelaVigne AndreaZanfi etduVin Winejournalist Villenaved’Ornon,France Grosseto,Italy Email:[email protected] Email:info@andreazanfi.it

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