Sustainable Textile and Fashion Value Chains: Drivers, Concepts, Theories and Solutions PDF
Preview Sustainable Textile and Fashion Value Chains: Drivers, Concepts, Theories and Solutions
André Matthes · Katja Beyer · Holger Cebulla · Marlen Gabriele Arnold · Anton Schumann Editors Sustainable Textile and Fashion Value Chains Drivers, Concepts, Theories and Solutions Sustainable Textile and Fashion Value Chains é Andr Matthes Katja Beyer Holger Cebulla (cid:129) (cid:129) (cid:129) Marlen Gabriele Arnold Anton Schumann (cid:129) Editors Sustainable Textile and Fashion Value Chains Drivers, Concepts, Theories and Solutions 123 Editors AndréMatthes KatjaBeyer Faculty of MechanicalEngineering Faculty of EconomicsandBusiness Chemnitz University of Technology Administration Chemnitz, Sachsen,Germany Chemnitz University of Technology Chemnitz, Sachsen,Germany Holger Cebulla Faculty of MechanicalEngineering Marlen Gabriele Arnold Chemnitz University of Technology Faculty of EconomicsandBusiness Chemnitz, Sachsen,Germany Administration Chemnitz University of Technology AntonSchumann Chemnitz, Sachsen,Germany Gherzi Textil Organisation Chemnitz, Sachsen,Germany Gherzi Germany Chemnitz, Germany ISBN978-3-030-22017-4 ISBN978-3-030-22018-1 (eBook) https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-030-22018-1 ©SpringerNatureSwitzerlandAG2021 Thisworkissubjecttocopyright.AllrightsarereservedbythePublisher,whetherthewholeorpart of the material is concerned, specifically the rights of translation, reprinting, reuse of illustrations, recitation, broadcasting, reproduction on microfilms or in any other physical way, and transmission orinformationstorageandretrieval,electronicadaptation,computersoftware,orbysimilarordissimilar methodologynowknownorhereafterdeveloped. The use of general descriptive names, registered names, trademarks, service marks, etc. in this publicationdoesnotimply,evenintheabsenceofaspecificstatement,thatsuchnamesareexemptfrom therelevantprotectivelawsandregulationsandthereforefreeforgeneraluse. The publisher, the authors and the editors are safe to assume that the advice and information in this book are believed to be true and accurate at the date of publication. Neither the publisher nor the authors or the editors give a warranty, expressed or implied, with respect to the material contained hereinorforanyerrorsoromissionsthatmayhavebeenmade.Thepublisherremainsneutralwithregard tojurisdictionalclaimsinpublishedmapsandinstitutionalaffiliations. ThisSpringerimprintispublishedbytheregisteredcompanySpringerNatureSwitzerlandAG Theregisteredcompanyaddressis:Gewerbestrasse11,6330Cham,Switzerland Foreword by Dr. Maria Flachsbarth Dear Readers, Fast, cheap and always dernier cri—that isfast fashion. Affordable clothing that is produced in short fashion cycles has been in existence since the 1990s, led by brands that specialize in this. Through globalization, competitive pressure has increased and the production of clothing has moved from Germany to lower-cost places abroad, often in emerging economies and developing countries. Today,garmentsareproducedindozensofstagesacrossmultiplecountries.The garment and textile industry is globally integrated; value chains are complex. A simple T-shirt often travels up to 18,000 km before it ends up in a store in Germany. This development towards a short-lived, high-competition, resource-intensive industry has massive impacts on humans and the environment. High levels of raw material,pesticide,waterandenergyuseconstantlyenlargetheecologicalfootprint of textile production. And yet many garments are thrown away after having been worn just a few times. Fashionmustbecomemoresustainable!Intimesofincreasingresourcescarcity and climate change, we can no longer afford the type offast fashion we see today. Theremustbeglobalcompliancewithsocialandenvironmentalstandards.Wecan only achieve that through cooperation. The Federal Ministry for Economic Cooperation and Development (BMZ) therefore works with German and interna- tionalpartnersandwithorganizationssuchastheInternationalLabourOrganization (ILO) in order to improve conditions on the ground. In addition to supporting environmental, chemical and water management, we also work for living wages, decent working hours, strengthened labour rights and the elimination of child and forced labour. In October 2014, German Development Minister Gerd Müller launched the partnership for sustainable textiles. Together with some 130 partnership members from the textile and garment industry, the retail sector, labour unions, non- governmental organizations and standards organizations, we are working to bring about sustained improvements along the textile supply chain. v vi ForewordbyDr.MariaFlachsbarth The scientific community has a special role to play in developing resource-saving technologies. So I am pleased that Chemnitz University has deci- dedtoexpanditsfocusonsustainabilityanditsTextileTechnologiesProfessorship. Ourcooperationhasalreadybornefruit:togetherwithChemnitzUniversity,the BGMEA University of Fashion and Technology (BUFT) and the University of Liberal Arts Bangladesh (ULAB), we have made sustainability a focus of textile programs at institutions of higher education in Bangladesh. Moreover, we have jointly launched research projects on textile technologies in cooperation with industry in Bangladesh. The present book is an important contribution to improving resource conser- vation in the textile industry. It shows how vital issues such as environmental technologies and a circular economy can be addressed in textile production. These issues will play a growing role in the textile and garment industry in the future. Berlin, Germany Dr. Maria Flachsbarth Parliamentary State Secretary to the Federal Minister for Economic Cooperation and Development Foreword by Mauro Scalia Dear Readers, Never like in our modern times, the textile value chain is being driven to come together and deliver new solutions. Ourworldsocietykeepsgrowingatthespeedofapproximately1Billionpeople every generation and through the consumption of, generally, more resources. That is why we need changes applicable at large scale and across borders. Decoupling growth from resource consumption while acting in law compliance appearstobethemostlogicaloptiontobenefittheenvironment,thepeopleandthe businesses. Recently, and for three years in a row, the world witnessed decoupling of CO 2 emissions from economic growth. A combination of increased efficiency, pressure and diffusion of new technologies has enabled global growth without releasing more emissions in the atmosphere. Whilethisunprecedentedvirtuoustrendfrozein2017,decouplinghasshownan example, namely how policy and market factors can lead to structural changes in theglobalenergysystem.Crucialforthissuccesswastheinvolvementofthemajor world players, government and business alike. What about the global textile system? Manufacturing of textile products appears to operate in one of the most complex, mutual-dependent and diverse industry value chain. Within the EU only, 176.000 companies, mostly SMEs, deliver an amazing variety of textile products, from a T-shirttoajetturbofanengineparts.Textilesaremorethangarments,textileswear people, homes and other industries alike. Theworldtextileindustryislarge,ruled bydifferent market cost pressures, and operates invery diverse regulatory frameworks. Researches carried out inWestern regions show growing segment of consumers fancying sustainable textile goods made with sustainable processes. However, little or no evidences are available of the average world buyer opting for less items or more expensive products. vii viii ForewordbyMauroScalia The calls for rethinking the global textile value chains are loud and boosted by society and workers organizations, by international policy agenda, responsible businesses and conscious consumers. These calls include unusual cooperation as showninthefirstJointIndustryManifesto1andaskforunprecedentedpartnerships to boost sustainable purchasing practices, to create a demand for circularity of products and processes, to deliver world chemical management systems and test traceability. Today, the challenges still outnumber the solutions, yet spontaneous partner- ships across the textile world are showing what can be done, using the best com- bination of textile resources of energy and creativity. This offers the basis for unprecedented level of interaction and a new form of dialogue between policy actors and market players. This book addresses sustainability in textile and fashion value chains from an interdisciplinary and holistic viewpoint. It provides deep insights into sustainable textile process chains and shows how these can be transferred into a functioning recyclingeconomy.Inparticular,combiningscientificarticlesandpracticalreports, the readers experience close at hand the overall complexity and vivid current dis- cussions about opportunities and challenges in the context of textile sustainability. Inthissense,thebooksignificantlycontributestomirroringamuchneedednew business development based on the guiding principle ‘Sustainability is the new Quality!’. Brussels, Belgium Mauro Scalia Director, Sustainable Businesses at European Apparel and Textile Confederation, EURATEX 1Simultaneously announced in Frankfurt and Copenhagen in May 2019 by EURATEX, FESI, GFA, IAF and SAC, it is the first joint declaration representing the world garment value chain fromfibretoretail. Foreword by Karla Magruder Dear Readers, Sustainable Textiles and Value Chains is a book the textile industry needs. It is a book that will be useful to both students and industry professionals who need to gain an understanding of the push for more sustainable systems within the textile value chain. These systems include everything from raw material developments throughconsumersandendoflifechoicesfortextiles.Thevarietyoftopicscovered will provide facts and information for interested parties to see current capabilities along with those that are missing. Hopefully, it will encourage its readers to see areas where the industry needs to make progress and where they need to advance moresustainableinitiativesintheirownareaofexpertise.Thisbookshouldalsobe areminderthatnoonesystemwillsolvethetextileindustry’ssocial,environmental and economic issues. We will need to use all the solutions that have science and facts behind them. Using a variety of tools will provide the progress that supports significant changes, thereby allowing for an industry that contributes positively to the global community. Hoboken, NJ, United States Karla Magruder Founder, Fabrikology International ix Acknowledgements Theworldisforchange,notforendurance. —HaraldWelzer In 2017, the editors launched as a team the Sustainable Textile School (STS) in Chemnitz,Germany.Theprimaryobjectiveofthecongresswasandistodevelopa science-basedexchangeofknowledge,ideasandexperiencesregardingsustainable production and sustainable business models for the value creation stages of the global textile industry. Almost 100 participants from 30 nations were enthusiastic aboutthecommitted,fruitfuldiscourse onimportantandurgenttopicsinthetextile industry among educational institutions, companies, governmental authorities and international organizations. Under the heading ‘Sustainable is the new quality!’, sustainability was not only enhanced by the STS as a topic for the communications department, but also as a topic for product developers, engineers and supply chain managers and scientists. The third conference in the series was held in Zurich in 2019 as the World Textile Forum. Concerned with addressing sustainability and digitization, theforumreflectedandfurtherdevelopedtheeditors’foundingspiritofprovidinga knowledge exchange platform. The 2019 forum brought together global industry leaders for discussing business transformation by incorporating new and digital technologies. Passing thecurrent knowledge to a larger circle of interested people inthe field of textile sustainability is the main goal of this book. With this in mind, the book primarilyaddressesscientistsandestablishedcompaniesbyfeaturingagreatvariety of topics and issues relating to a sustainable and systemic transformation of the textile industry. Thereby not only findings from recent scientific studies are cov- ered,butalsovariouspracticalexperiencesfrombusinessandmanagementexperts as well as consultants in the global textile industry. We, the editorial team, would like to say thank you to all the contributors who made this book possible by sharing their insights, research and practical activities. We are also very grateful to our Parliamentary State Secretary to the Federal Minister for Economic Cooperation and Development Dr. Maria Flachsbarth, Mr. Mauro Scalia, Director Sustainable Businesses from EURATEX and Ms. Karla Magruder, Founder and President of Fabrikology International, for their xi
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