Supra: A Feast of Georgian Cooking

281 Pages·2017·8.57 MB·English

by  Tiko Tuskadze

Supra

Supra
A Feast of Georgian Cooking
Tiko Tuskadze
of Little Georgia
Contents
Introduction
The Elements of a Supra
Pâtés & Sauces
Salads
Soups
Bread & Cheese
Meat Dishes
Poultry Dishes
Fish Dishes
Vegetable Dishes
Fruit Dishes
Glossary of Ingredients
Suppliers
Index
Acknowledgements
Introduction
Georgia is a country built on traditions and of these food is perhaps the
most important. Family life revolves around the dining table, and when I
was growing up, my family, especially on my father’s side, took their food
very seriously indeed. My grandmother was like a kitchen magician,
conjuring up unforgettably delicious food from the ingredients available to
her — she used seasonal ingredients, even through the difficult times when
the food supply was erratic. But no matter what challenges she faced, there
was always something delicious on the table and plenty to go around, even if
friends and neighbours came by unannounced, as they often did. It has
become a cliché to talk about one’s grandmother, but the reality is that she
fostered a love of food and entertaining in me that has remained with me
throughout my life and made me the person that I am.
The memory of my life in Georgia is so intense and such an irreplaceable
part of me that familiar smells can instantly take me back to my early
childhood; the smells of the seasons and of seasonal food are also the smells
of my youth. Leaving these memories behind and coming to another
country felt like I was a traveller in a physical body leaving her spirit
behind.
Luckily, I had the opportunity to open my restaurant, Little Georgia, in
London. Within its walls I have created a little homeland and can bring
these never-forgotten senses from my old home to my new one. As I
mentioned, eating together is a big part of family life in Georgia. Our
families are very large and very close, with distant cousins counting as very
close relations. We love parties so much that we can always find a reason to
celebrate. If a neighbour’s cousin’s dog had a puppy we would laugh and
celebrate with a feast until dawn.
This love for entertaining and the spontaneity of celebration is hard to come
by in London. In Georgia, the door was always open and our house was
always full of guests, laughing, singing and debating around a table which
was groaning under the weight of seemingly endless dishes. These parties
were not planned; they just happened and yet there was always food and
drink to satisfy the appetite of every impromptu visitor.
I can remember so clearly, as if I had just heard it a moment ago, the
comments that our guests made about the food we served them. Even simple
salads made by my grandmother were very special. Looking back, I
understand now that what was motivating her was a love of watching people
enjoying her food, as much as I loved watching her in the kitchen.
Writing this book has brought back so many memories. Supra or ‘feast’, is
an integral part of our culture. I cannot escape the memories that flow in
my mind from back home of when with nature waking up in spring time the
people also seemed to come alive — late night parties, with loud singing, in
their gardens. My balcony overlooked the garden of a famous Georgian
comedian and actor who had a wooden hut in his garden where he would
entertain his guests with parties until sunrise. The smell of baking and
barbecue, and the raucous sounds of singing and toasting would waft up
through my open windows. Famous poets reciting their works and telling
stories, real stories, to a captive and respectful audience. These were not
just parties, but celebrations of life — all that is fine about it — in a
traditional, dignified and always philosophical manner. When I listened to
these people speak, their words were pervaded with wisdom and grace that
helped to shape me as a person. If asked what was the smell of my country, I
would say spring. And what does spring smell like? Joy. The feeling of
eternity and the nonexistence of sorrow.
For me, these memories are a big bottle of love that guides me through
misery, grief and hard times. Love is the strongest weapon I was given by
my family and it is the strongest weapon that you can hold. I have been very
fortunate to have all this and through this book, I hope to share it with you.
Top left and bottom: Music is central to any supra with guests joining in with
the singing and bringing their own instruments to the celebration.
Top right: A traditional supra table laden with dishes. The meals can last for
many hours and plates of food are continuously replenished throughout.
Middle left: The toastmaster or tamada is the most important guest at a Supra.
They lead the toasts and encourage the other guests with laughter and song. They
are selected from among the host’s family and friends and are pivotal to the
success of the celebration.