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The Arête Volume 47, Summer 2017 Supervision of Apprentice Guides Page 10 High Sierras Trip Report Page 36 Airbag Pack Reviews Near Miss at the Page 42 Hilda Hut Page 40 Contents Editorial New Kids on the Bloc 30 President’s Perspective 4 The Pain of Perseverance 32 Tucker Talk 4 Give What You Do 34 The Himalayan Alpine Canine 35 News High Sierras Gamble - Trip Report 36 Canadian Mountain & Ski Guide Program Update 6 Near Miss Technical Director’s Report 8 Avalanche - Near Hilda Hut, South Selkirks 40 Supervision of Apprentice Guides 10 Reviewing Conduct Review - part 2 14 Technical ACMG Permit Update 15 BCA Float 32 Airbag Review 42 ACMG Scholarship News 16 Arc'teryx Voltair 30 Airbag Review 44 MCR/Informalex Committee Report 17 Black Diamond Halo 28 JetForce Airbag Review 46 Professional Practices Committee Report 17 DMM Pivot Belay Device Review 48 Member Services Committee Report 18 BORA AR PACK Adidas Tycane Pro Sunglasses Review 50 The classic Bora Pack is back. A Spotlight on ACMG Members Member Updates revolutionary new suspension ACMG Member Profile - Scott McKay 20 system saves energy by gliding Diapers and Vows 51 vertically and horizontally to Oral History Report - Profile on Bernie Scheisser 22 Remembering Dean Flick 52 stabilize over uneven terrain. Thierry Cardon Memorial 25 Changes in ACMG Membership 53 ACMG Officers, Directors, Advisors, Features Staff and Committees 54 How to Climb V10 28 The Arête “Not all girls are made of sugar and spice and everything nice... Some girls are made of adventure and wine and all things fine...” - adventurouswomen.com.au Editor-in-Chief: Shaun King Editorial Consultants: Mary Clayton, Peter Tucker, Marc Piché Editorial Policy The Arête attempts to print every submission believed to be of interest to the ACMG membership including items that challenge the Association to examine its actions or direction. Ar- ticles containing insulting or defamatory sections will be edited or The lens that changes everything. Proud Partner not published at all. Technical articles are subject to review by the NXT + antiFOG + Photochromic + Colour Boost Technical Committee. Previous issues of The Arête may be found online at: acmg.ca/02member/communication/newsletter.asp Article submissions and advertising information Submission guidelines outlined on the ACMG members website. Submit articles and ads to [email protected] Cover photo: A heli-hiker's unique view of Bugaboo Spire and the Howsers Towers in the Purcell Mountains. Photo: Lyle Grisedale The Arête 2 Summer 2017 Summer 2017 3 The Arête Editorial President’s Perspective By Marc Ledwidge Our job as guides is to safeguard clients as best lowing a serious incident. These include the mental stress, loss of we can, while providing rewarding experiences sleep, and lifelong memories following the aftermath of a serious in sometimes dangerous environments. That incident. The internal turmoil of second guessing, what ifs, and is a pretty tall order. To make this happen feeling judged by one’s peers, has implications that are not easily we need to have a good understanding of the dealt with. Lastly, something that has recently come up, is the potential consequences associated with the potential for criminal investigation following a serious incident. hazards inherent in mountain travel. We deal In some European countries, this has happened on several oc- with this reality daily when guiding, but if a casions, but here in Canada, it is relatively new. This is vastly serious incident happens, a different reality can really hit home. different from a civil case where a plaintiff is seeking compensa- We have liability insurance available to our members through tion following an incident. A criminal investigation in Canada a group policy to partially mitigate the aftermath if something is where the Crown looks to see if criminal negligence has taken goes badly, but it is worth considering the limits of that insurance. place. Penalties can vary between fines and jail time. I asked It should cover the defence of a claim, and eventually a payout to for a legal opinion on this and was told that, to prosecute suc- a plaintiff. For the insurance company, there are costs associated cessfully, the Crown would need to demonstrate willful intent to with investigating an incident. If a claim arises, and requires a le- cause harm. On the surface, this may seem absurd. However, gal defense, there will be significant costs incurred for that defense. the argument could be made that the wrong decision was made Even a claim that is successfully defended can get very expensive when there was overwhelming evidence that harm was likely. for the insurance company. If a payout is required, the costs can Should such an investigation take place, our liability insur- get into the millions of dollars. For the guide implicated, there ance will not cover that defence. There is no insurance available would undoubtedly be considerable personal time spent on the to defend against being charged under the Criminal Code. This defense. The “cost” of that time would not be covered by the means the guide would be paying directly for that legal defence. ACMG three year strategic plan for 2017 - 2019 insurance and the time required to deal with the aftermath of an Criminal lawyers don’t come cheap. In addition, depending on incident could mean a significant loss of income which could last the wording of an insurance policy, a successful criminal prosecu- The ACMG has worked through three 3-year strategic plans of your own! for weeks, months and possibly years. tion could void the coverage provided for a civil case. since I took on the role of Executive Director. These have largely At the recent IFMGA meetings, our colleagues from France The goal of course for all of us, is to minimize all incidents Peter Tucker is the ACMG Executive Director living in Bragg guided our direction over the past decade moving us from a informed us that following several successful claims against French and especially serious ones. There is ample evidence showing that Creek, AB. relatively unknown and primarily inwardly focussed group to guides, they are experiencing significant increases in insurance if we can reduce the number of minor incidents and near-misses, a technically sound, well-respected professional association that costs. This of course is expected and anyone who had made a the number of serious incidents will also go down. The ACMG is is sought out for advice, counsel and partnership by the public, claim on their vehicle insurance knows all too well of the implica- working to establish an incident reporting and learning system to government agencies, industry and other collegial organizations. tions on premiums. Our liability insurance costs are currently foster learning from all incidents. We hope that this will achieve This bodes well for you as members as you will be sought out for MOUNTAIN low. When they inevitably go up in the future, premium increases that goal. work more, based on the value of your certification. PERFORMANCE could impact the financial bottom line for guides. In the autumn of 2016, your Board of Directors, with in- There are unforeseen “costs” that insurance does not cover fol- Marc Ledwidge is the ACMG President and lives in Banff, AB. EYEWEAR put from my admin team and the able facilitation of Isabelle Daigneault of IDee Marketing, created the next strategic plan Tucker Talk set to run from 2017 – 2019. As you can see, the focus will be on continuing to increase the profile of the association with key stakeholders, developing a By Peter Tucker clearer process for working with and learning from incidents and building greater capacity in all aspects of our training. When I managed Mountain Equipment Co- night before if he was to come in for work. When he told me that op in Calgary, there was a long-time staff this wasn’t fair because it didn’t let him plan his time out, I told My admin team has prepared a series of supporting actions member who was much loved and respected him that I’d heard that planning was a myth. We shared a good to get us to our goals. These will be vetted by the Board in June, by other staff. One of his credos was, “Plan- laugh, had a good conversation and he agreed that he needed to and later shared with you via an e-Bulletin – which I KNOW ning is a myth” – something he believed be- provide a bit more context when sharing his motto with other you all read thoroughly.  cause things always seem to change before staff. any plan gets implemented. Because of his In many ways, my colleague was right – circumstances are This plan will largely drive our actions for the next three stature among the rest of the staff, several of always changing, necessitating revamping plans, sometimes in a years. Will it change? Hard to say. Twice a year the Board exam- them parroted this phrase whenever I tried to instill some forward wholesale way. That said, it’s critical to prepare a plan so that you ines the results to date and reassesses the priorities. In this way, thinking among the crew. After a few months of this, I decided and those who share an interest in what you do have a sense of the plan remains flexible to the ever-changing working, training to remove the fellow’s name from the schedule for the following your roadmap, all the while remaining flexible enough to change and legislative landscape of your profession. month. When he came to see me to ask what happened, I assured it as necessary. Want a piece of the action? Contact myself or President him that he was still on staff, but that we’d just let him know the Marc Ledwidge to get involved in one of our dozen or so com- mittees. Who knows, you may even get to bust a myth or two The Arête 4 Summer 2017 Summer 2017 5 The Arête News Canadian Mountain and Ski Guide Program Update By Dwayne Congdon Thanks The listed individuals and businesses provided operational support for the Ski Guide certificate and the listed climbing facilities generously provided their venue for at least one Climbing Gym Instructor course over the past year. This sup- port is critical to the successful conduct of Guide Training Skiing courses, Ski Guide exams, and the Climbing Gym Instructor Program. Climbing Gym Instructor Program Ski Guide Stream Elevation Place – Canmore, BC Charlie Locke (Lake Louise Ski Resort) The Boulders Climbing Gym – Sannichton, BC Revelstoke Mountain Resort Climb Base5 Climbing Gym – Coquitlam, BC Sutton Place Hotel The Edge Climbing Centre - North Vancouver, BC Whistler Heli-skiing The Calgary Climbing Centre (Stronghold) - Calgary, AB Whistler Blackcomb Ski Resort Cliffside Climbing Gym - Kamloops, BC Selkirk Tangiers Heli-skiing Grand River Rocks - Kitchener, ON Great Canadian Heli-skiing Guelph Grotto - Guelph, ON Silver King Helicopters Northern Rockies Recreation Centre - Fort Nelson, BC RWDI Engineers (Environmental Services) Peninsula Co-op Climbing Centre - Victoria, BC 2017 Guide Exam and Climbing Instructor Pass Rates Pass rates are posted below to allow ACMG members to monitor how effectively the CMSG Program is preparing students to meet ACMG standards. 2017 2016 2015 Qualification Candidates Pass Rate Candidates Pass Rate Candidates Pass Rate Apprentice Ski Guide 32 84% 27 82% 24 87% Ski Guide 28 82% 33 82% 21 76% Climbing Gym Instructor 1 75 (ytd) 96% 85 85% 117 96% Climbing Gym Instructor 2 7 86% 11 91% 75% Three technical re-tests are pending for the Apprentice Ski Guide qualification. New Guide Training Partner – Rando Québec Claire Dixon & Cornelius Brenninkmeyer Award Rando Québec is a member based organization that promotes hiking This award is in memory of Claire Dixon and Cornelius Bren- activities in Québec; the organization also provides training courses ninkmeyer who died in a snow caving accident in January 2007. and certification for group leaders. Cornelius was a student in the Ski Guide Certificate. The ACMG and Thompson Rivers University are collaborat- The recipient is chosen by CMSG instructors and presented to ASK QUESTIONS STEP ing with Rando Québec with the goal of Rando Québec assuming a Guide Training Skiing student who has demonstrated: TRY SOMETHING NEW responsibility for delivering the CMSG Hiking Guide certificate in 1. Excellent leadership and people skills EXCEED EXPECTATIONS OUTSIDE Eastern Canada. 2. Excellent technical skills Once ready, Rando Québec will coordinate course scheduling, 3. Superior attention to safety during guide training Watch seasoned G3 ambassadors, guides logistics, instructor hiring, applicant screening, etc. TRU will provide and engineers share their personal field tips to The 2017 award recipient is Andrew McNab. take your backcountry riding to higher places. training, hiking program materials, and ongoing oversight. Successful GENUINEGUIDEGEAR.COM/STEPOUTSIDE exam candidates will still receive a TRU certificate and qualify for ACMG membership. Key representatives of Rando Québec attended Dwayne Congdon is an ACMG Mountain Guide and coordinator the Hiking Guide course based in Lake Placid (June 17-25). of the CMSG Program at Thompson Rivers University in Kam- loops, BC. The Arête 6 Summer 2017 Summer 2017 7 The Arête News Technical Director’s Report in question is very limited and often repeated. their Technical Director, Dale Remsberg, will be attending our We will be extending variances for both the Mount Norquay training session this June. We will be working on developing a By Marc Piché and Sea to Sky Via Ferratas while we go through the process schedule for instructor observations over the next year. of running the beta course and completing the stand alone Via We are also working on having Gery Unterasinger, an Austrian The last half-year has been busy with numer- Via Ferrata Ferrata Guide course. guide training instructor living in Canmore, observe on the Guide All current variances can be viewed on the ACMG website. Training Rock course in Canmore this spring. ous projects which are gaining momentum. James Blench did a great job completing the Via Ferrata (VF) Although a significant amount of my time Guide training proposal over the course of the winter. The Via is spent dealing with member inquiries and Apprentice Guide Timelines Russian Mountain Guides Association Ferrata Guide beta course will be held at Mount Norquay this ‘putting out fires’, the Technical Committee spring by the CMSG program at TRU with some financial help has made progress on numerous fronts. The Technical Committee has fielded several requests for exten- The program with the RMGA has been going well with a very suc- and oversight from the ACMG. sions to the apprentice guide timelines. Most of these requests cessful session this spring. Christoph Dietzfelbinger and I hosted To ensure all candidates arrive with a certain level of knowl- are related to injury and granted without too much discussion. 16 students on back to back CAA Level 1 and Ski Touring Training Information Update & Current Activities edge and training, only applicants who have already completed courses in the Mount Elbrus region. This was the first time where A number of requests were denied because they did not meet the TRCI, Apprentice Ski Guide, Ski Guide, Assistant Hiking we felt the students had benefitted from the mentorship of previ- the requirement of stemming from a personal or family emer- Manuals Guide or Hiking Guide courses are permitted to attend. Once ous students and had arrived very well prepared. The trickle-down gency. The purpose of this policy is to ensure ACMG members we have completed the beta course and had an opportunity to effect of knowledge and skills is a strong sign of the health of the complete their education and certification in a timely manner. We have hired Derek Wilding (Rock Guide, CGI3 and CMSG implement feedback, the course will be developed into a stand- program. examiner) to provide content for the TRCI Manual and Susan alone certificate like the CGI and TRCI. We have been dealing with individuals who have missed Another significant step is that IFMGA members will be vot- Chamney to do the publishing. Chris Miller and I will take care their timelines on a case-by-case basis. A few have chosen to for- The Scope of Practice (SoP) for this certificate will be well ing on accepting Russia as a candidate country at the Fall General of photos and video needs. We expect this project to be complete feit their ACMG membership while others have been required defined and very limited. ACMG VF Guides will only be able Assembly. Although this is not yet the status of ‘full member’ it by the end of the summer. to attend a pre-determined number of ‘upgrade’ days with a to work in highly controlled environments, on privately owned is a significant step in that direction, as it is a statement of confi- CMSG instructor and provide proof of registration for the next Later in June, I will be meeting with several CMSG Course and operated installations, with easy access to rescue personnel dence in the Russian guide training program and their health as an available exam to remain as active ACMG members. Leaders at Mountain Guide, Kirk Mauthner’s facility in Inver- and equipment. They are required to do extensive staff train- association. mere for three days. The purpose of this meet is to review all ing yearly and must be working under appropriate supervision. technical applications taught in the mountain guide stream in There is also a requirement that the installation conform to Continuing Professional Development order to finalize what will be included in the technical manual. certain build standards in terms of quality of equipment, fall Activities Planned for Next Quarter This will give the group an opportunity to discuss new (and old) hazards and other environmental hazards. Although we see the First, a huge thank you goes out to Alison Dakin for her hard techniques in an environment where they can be easily demon- number growing in the future, there are currently only three work running the CPD program over the last few years. Alison’s strated and tested. This will set the foundation for writing the existing Via Ferratas in Western Canada recognized by the VF efforts produced significant gains in moving our CPD delivery Via Ferrata technical chapters of the manual, to be started later this summer. Guide SoP. There are many VF installations in Eastern Canada, towards a more professional and consistent program. • Complete curriculum for the stand alone course based on learning We will continue to hire outside professionals for editing and many of which would likely fit this definition. The ACMG has now hired Lauren Shearston as the new from the beta course publishing. Event Coordinator. Lauren will help us continue building on • Offer stand-alone course this fall or next spring the momentum we have gained in the last few years. Scope of Practice Instructor Training One of our efforts concerning the future of CPD delivery is As the various aspects of our diverse industries continue to grow, to provide sessions that fit under the three main topics of Risk Manual The ACMG has recently taken on the responsibility of delivering we seem to be fielding more questions from members looking to Management (decision making and human factors), Technical, • Produce visual materials for both TRCI and Technical Manual instructor training to CMSG Instructors. This year we will be expand their work opportunities. Much of the confusion comes and Workplace Responsibilities (WSBC, WCB). throughout the summer delivering three separate instructor training sessions as well as from mixing activities that are included in the scope of practice • Work on Technical Skills chapters after instructor meeting implementing a process requiring CMSG instructors to com- with others that are less clearly defined. IFMGA plete a minimum number of hours of specific training every two We dealt with a few scope of practice infractions over the years to continue working in the program. This would be similar winter, all of which stemmed from concerns about supervision. In recent years the Technical Committee of the IFMGA has Scope of Practice to the existing ACMG CPD program and hours accumulated This parallels a growing number of job offers on the Informalex put a greater emphasis on the importance of exchanging guide- for instructor training would also likely count towards ACMG • Start revision project this summer looking for apprentice guides. In most cases, the work being training instructors between different countries to learn from CPD. offered is inappropriate because the supervisor and apprentice each other. These exchanges occasionally include having the vis- In June, Executive Director Peter Tucker and I will be host- likely have no previous relationship. iting instructor work in a teaching or assessing role while most Core Skills Course ing two, two-day training sessions for ‘new instructors’. The first Please refer to the “Supervision of Apprentice Guides” article exchanges are purely for observation. • Continue working on building a decision-making and human- will be in Canmore and the second will be in Squamish. These in this edition for a better understanding of the responsibilities This winter I attended a five day ice climbing training course factors element for this future course sessions will include dealing with risk management, giving feed- of all those involved in a supervision situation. in Chamonix, based out of the French government’s guide train- back, coaching and instructor roles and responsibilities. ing facility (ENSA). This was a valuable experience and the lead The course leader meeting at Kirk Mauthner’s facility later in ENSA instructor will likely be coming to Canada next winter to June will serve as an opportunity for moving the manual proj- Variances observe on one of our courses. Marc Piché, a Mountain Guide and the ACMG Technical Director, ect forward as well as an intensive course leader training for all We have fielded several requests for variances to the Scope of Although the ACMG and the American Mountain Guides lives in Canmore, AB. aspects of the CMSG mountain program. One specific benefit Practice, many of which were denied. The Technical Com- Association have always been closely aligned, we have recently will be to significantly increase consistency, (both regionally mittee only grants variances in situations where it believes the decided to make a more targeted effort at cross-pollination. I and between individual instructors) in the delivery of training public interest can be protected with a large margin of safety. have attended one of their instructor trainings in the past and courses. These are generally in structured operations where the activity The Arête 8 Summer 2017 Summer 2017 9 The Arête News Supervision of Apprentice Guides days in changeable conditions (such as mountaineering or ski • As an educator and mentor, remain professionally current and aware touring). The venue should be chosen such that the effects of of best practices changing conditions (avalanches, snow-melt/rockfall, coverage • Choose when and where to use an apprentice based on public safety, By Marc Piché on glaciers) should have minimal impact on decision-making not on economics and the potential level of risk. ACMG members do a great job of self-regulating. The level of Direct Supervision means you can communicate by Measures must be taken to ensure that there are means for Your Responsibilities as an Apprentice Guide professionalism demonstrated on a regular basis by the vast ma- voice without the use of radios or phones. The supervising reliable daily communications and that daily check-ins with the jority of members is what has helped us attain our well-deserved guide is either leading or is in a position to take charge at a supervisor are recorded. The requirements for appropriate re- Apprentice guides play a significant role in this relationship. They reputation both in Canada and around the world. moment’s notice. mote supervision are purposefully very restrictive. It should only must be familiar with their Scope of Practice as well as their per- Intentionally, there are still some grey areas in the Scope of All new apprentice guides are required to ensure their first be used after careful consideration of all contributing factors. sonal level of skill and experience. It can be tempting to take on Practice (SoP) and it seems that most ACMG members are clear ten days of guiding work (not instructional) are done under more challenging work or to seek greater independence but this of- on what activities they are qualified to do given their level and direct supervision. The intent is to help facilitate a high level ten results in stepping over the line. Land managers, our insurance Institutional Supervision can only be used by type of training. It is my hope that there will always be a certain of mentorship during the early days of one’s career. There will company and the ACMG will likely consider your permits and TRCIs, Via Ferrata Guides and Assistant Hiking Guides in very amount of room for interpretation, allowing members to use likely be a change in the rock and hiking streams reducing these insurance invalid if you are working clearly outside of your SoP. specific situations. Many elements must be in place in order to their best judgment when deciding what kind of work to take required days to a minimum of five. The ACMG is also con- Apprentice guides should also hold their supervisors account- meet the requirements. By having several protocols and policies on. sidering making this mentorship requirement more formal in able for providing them with meaningful feedback in order to help in place, an institution may be able to provide supervision for There seems to be more confusion around the subject of su- the future. them grow. relatively low risk activities without having a qualified guide on pervision. In its simplest form, supervision is defined as the act Trips that involve high levels of complexity, commitment, staff. The following factors should be in place: of observing or directing the execution of a task. In the context multiple and difficult- to- assess hazards and changeable condi- • Insurance and permits supplied by the institution Can an Apprentice Guide Execute Tasks Out- of the ACMG, it takes on a slightly broader role. Supervision tions are also strong candidates for direct supervision regardless should not be viewed solely from the perspective of watching of the apprentice’s skill level and experience. • Annual, in-house training side of their SoP Under Direct Supervision? over someone’s activities but also as a crucial part of their train- • Site-specific protocols for risk management When hiring apprentice guides for the first time, it is recom- No. An Apprentice Rock Guide may not guide ice climbing under ing, education and career evolution. mended to work with them directly in order to build a relation- • Written communication protocols direct supervision from an Alpine Guide. An Apprentice Alpine Most of the complaints and questions I receive about the ship and to better understand their skills and experience. • Written emergency response protocols Guide may not guide skiing while under the supervision of a Ski SoP issues revolve around the different facets of supervision. In • Protocols requiring ACMG members to adhere strictly to the Guide, and so on… the following paragraphs, I will attempt to shed some light on ACMG Scope of Practice Local Supervision the most common points of confusion. Many of the questions refers to two or more guides working I receive could likely be answered by spending a few minutes within a few hours’ travel from one another. For example, one Long Term and Permanent Apprentice Guides having a close read of the supervision section of the SoP. I’ll try guide may be on Bugaboo Spire and the other on Pigeon Spire. Who Can Act as a Supervising Guide? Members who were apprentice guides prior to the implementa- to focus on the nuances in this piece. For the sake of simplicity, They have daily face-to-face meetings to discuss routes, condi- All certified (often referred to as ‘Full Guides’) ACMG members tion of the Apprentice Guide Timelines 2012 had the choice to I’ll refer to both apprentice guides and assistant hiking guides as tions and strategies to manage hazards (Bugaboo - Snowpatch can supervise apprentice guides who are performing tasks they become ‘Permanent Apprentice Guides’. These and other ‘very ‘apprentices’. Col) and are within radio communication throughout the day. themselves are qualified to do. A Ski Guide can supervise an experienced’ apprentices occasionally find themselves in situations Another example is the Wapta Traverse in winter conditions. Apprentice Ski Guide while working in a ski guiding context. where they are asked or inclined to work more independently or to Although the two guides may not travel together, they are able Who Must Work Under Supervision? A Rock Guide may not supervise an Assistant Hiking Guide. take on responsibilities that fall outside of their SoP. to have meetings morning and night to discuss changing condi- It is highly recommended that newly certified guides not It is important to note that despite this vast experience, these All Assistant Hiking Guides, Apprentice Guides in the Moun- tions and cruxes on the route. In both situations, the supervis- take on extensive independent supervisory roles until they have members have not yet completed their education, and there are tain Guide stream (rock, alpine, ski) and TRCIs must work un- ing guide is on site and able to make their own assessment of the gained at least two seasons of experience working on their own. limits as to what apprentices can do. More specifically, no matter der appropriate supervision at all times regardless of the type of conditions in a challenging piece of terrain. This is not to say that they cannot hire an apprentice guide to how familiar or experienced the apprentice is to the supervisor, or work they are doing. No exceptions. Local supervision should be used for moderately complex help them on a trip but they should not be running a business with the terrain, there are many conditions, situations and terrain routes where the supervising guide is comfortable with the ap- that is supervising several guides remotely. This timeline also where it is inappropriate for them to work under remote supervi- prentice guide’s skill and experience. Both guides should be What Type of Supervision is Appropriate? does not apply to certified guides working within the framework sion. Nor is it appropriate for an apprentice guide to act in the familiar with the objective. of an established guiding operation with multiple layers of su- role of lead guide in a mechanized ski operation regardless of their The SoP describes four different levels of Supervision. Decid- pervision and decision-making regarding staffing. experience. ing what type of supervision is appropriate can be difficult so Remote Supervision If the apprentice guide seems ‘experienced’ enough or ‘better is where the apprentice guide it is often best to err on the side of caution. Remember that a than many certified guides you have seen’, this will be evident when supervising guide is ultimately responsible for the actions of the works without the supervising guide on site. The supervisor is Your Responsibilities as a Supervising Guide they pass the certificate exam. Once this is successfully complete only able to assess conditions and aid in decision-making based apprentice. The level of supervision required is dependent on a they can work towards taking on more responsibility. on reports from the apprentice and other guides in the area. When taking on the role of supervisor, you are accepting re- combination of factors: sponsibility for the actions of the apprentice guide. Here is a Remote supervision should be reserved for relatively simple 1. Severity and complexity of the trip summary of a supervisor’s responsibilities: situations and objectives. The supervisor must be very familiar Does there Need to be an Exchange of Money? 2. Relationship and familiarity between supervisor and apprentice with the apprentice’s level of skill, experience and decision-mak- • Always have your name on the waiver, regardless of the type of guide ing style. Both parties must have a high level of familiarity with supervision or the business agreement No. In the spirit of encouraging mentorship, the ACMG does 3. Familiarity of terrain to both supervisor and apprentice guide the objectives, options and current conditions. • Review emergency response protocols prior to the trip not require there to be an exchange of funds in the supervision 4. Length of trip relationship. That said, the relationship must still be conducted in Remote supervision is generally used for instructional work • Ensure reliable communications are available throughout the trip 5. Potential for changeable conditions during the trip a professional manner including documentation of meetings. The in venues regularly used for such activities. The duration of the • Ensure all meetings are documented supervising guide must also be named on the waiver. 6. Availability and reliability of communications trip should be no longer than five days in predictable condi- • Debrief each section of the trip when possible and provide per- tions (such as hiking or rock climbing) and no greater than three formance feedback The Arête 10 Summer 2017 Summer 2017 11 The Arête News Use Of Practicum Students • Contact the Conduct Review Committee with your complaint Practicum opportunities are an important part of the guide train- ing process allowing aspiring guides to observe experienced practi- Can Apprentices Work in Foreign Countries? tioners at work. Practicums should only be offered by experienced, certified (not apprentice) guides working within their SoP. At no Maybe. Being an ACMG member is a 24-7 agreement. This time should a practicum student be used to increase the number of means no matter where you are in the world, you must be work- clients taken on a given objective. According to Canadian labour ing within your Scope of Practice and the ACMG Code of Con- laws, practicum students taking on more tasks than would be rea- duct. From the ACMG’s perspective, apprentices are required sonably expected of a client must be covered by workers compensa- to work under the supervision of a qualified ACMG, IFMGA or tion insurance and compensated accordingly. equivalent guide while working abroad. They are also responsible for checking with local authorities about laws and customs re- garding use of foreign apprentices. Can Apprentices have their own Business or Website? How Can Certified Guides Offer Valuable Yes. Apprentice guides are able to run their own businesses just as a Mentorship? non-member can own and operate a guiding business that employs ACMG members. As is the case with any company using ACMG As an experienced guide offering supervision and mentorship, you members, they must do so within the constraints of the scope of are having a profound effect on the formation of the careers of the practice and advertising policies of the ACMG. apprentices you are working with. Apprentice guides conducting regular guiding operations One of the most common comments I hear from apprentice through their own businesses should employ a supervising guide in guides is that they don’t get adequate and frank feedback from the role of lead guide. If only occasional work is being undertaken senior guides at work. A supervising guide once told me he wasn’t under the name of the business, the apprentice must secure appro- surprised that an apprentice he had worked with had failed his priate supervision for all of the work they do. certificate exam. When asked whether he had given the appren- tice this feedback prior to the exam he said no. I later learned he Apprentice guides are also expected to represent themselves ac- had even written a letter of recommendation for acceptance onto curately throughout the course of communicating with their clien- the exam. tele. This includes using the apprentice guide logo and referring to themselves as apprentice guides in their online bios. Being a good mentor includes having challenging conversa- tions about performance, skills and expectations. Taking the Dif- A company employing experienced, certified lead guides does ficult Conversations CPD offered nearly every session can also be not necessarily need to inform their guests of their guide’s specific a helpful way to get the conversation started. level of training, as they are working under the management and structure of an organization. It can also be helpful to make sure you are up to date on current techniques, best practices and trends in the industry to better coach apprentices on these subjects. Demonstrating a little GRIGRI + Must Apprentice Guides Disclose their Level humility and asking them what is being taught can be a way to of Training to Clients? break the ice and start a two way learning stream. There is information here that may seem quite different from As is the case with apprentice guides running their own businesses, The newest member of the way you, or others you know, have typically operated. It has when they are soliciting clients on their own they must inform them taken the ACMG a long time to fully understand the potential the GRIGRI family. of their level of training and supervision requirements. ramifications of improper supervision, but it is now clear that ad- hering to these guidelines is fundamental to working as a profes- Should I Report Apprentices Guiding without sional guide or instructor. Appropriate Supervision? It should also now be very clear that offering work to Appren- tice Guides on the Informalex is often inappropriate as the nature Yes. If an apprentice guide has an accident while working under of such requests implies there would be little or no familiarity inappropriate (or no) supervision, we are all at risk. This type of in- between parties. These job offers are absolutely inappropriate for caindde nint cmouorlde saetr tihoue sv ecrayse lse aits tc douamlda pgue tt hoeu rr eipnusutartainocne oafn odu pr eirnmduitsst rayt anytThhinerge b wuitl ld airlewcat yssu pbeer cvaissieosn w ohre sriem tphlee ainnsstwruercst iaornea nl ositt usoat icolenasr. alice.fr risk. and I encourage you to contact me with any questions you come w.k w Don’t panic. The GRIGRI + is equipped with an anti-panic handle, a belay- No one likes to be ‘that person’ but we all have a responsibility up with. In the meantime I hope this has added some clarity to an w © mode selector for lead and top-rope belaying, stainless steel wear plates, to hold ourselves and our fellow members to a high level of profes- often complex and fluid subject. oto smooth progressive braking, and accommodates single ropes 8.5 -11mm. sionalism. There are three different possible approaches: Ph www.petzl.com • Approach the member in question discretely and respectfully with Marc Piché, a Mountain Guide and the ACMG Technical Direc- your concerns tor, lives in Canmore, AB. • Contact myself or Peter Tucker so we can discuss the situation with the member The Arête 12 Summer 2017 Summer 2017 13 The Arête News Reviewing Conduct Review - part 2 ACMG Permit Udpate By Rod Gibbons By Janet Miller In the last issue of the Arête I reviewed the ba- available that is based upon the possibility that the review did not This is a reprint from the Spring e-Bulletin aid (FA) certificates on ACMG file. sics behind our conduct review process. Now follow proper process. You can find out more about this on the 12-2 published May 3/17. Did you miss that Myth: if you did a course with the Canadian Mountain and we will examine what it would look like if this ACMG website. one? It’s still available on the member web- Ski Guide program through Thompson Rivers University and process took us all the way to a hearing. I also In closing I will take this opportunity to tell the membership site, with a photo of me smashing my com- submitted FA as part of your application, it means it’s on file pointed out in the previous issue that, to date, that, by the time you read this I will have stepped down as Chair of puter with a mallet! now with the ACMG. the ACMG has not had a review proceed to a the Conduct Review Committee. After 12 years as chair, and a few It’s time to revisit some things that can full hearing. years on the board of directors before that, it is just time. It has been Fact: no, it means it’s on file now with the CMSG program delay your order when you apply for any of at TRU, based in Kamloops BC. The ACMG permit program What is the difference between a Prelimi- an honour to serve the membership in this capacity and I intend to the ACMG group permits. Yes - your order isn’t connected to the CMSG program and is based in Canmore nary Review (PR) and a full hearing? One of the clear distinctions stay in the pool of reviewers for as long as I can. I am also pleased to is an application; payment doesn’t imply you have anything in AB. is that, in a PR, the panel is considering a POTENTIAL breach announce that Jeremy Mackenzie has agreed to take on the role of place yet. But you can get your ducklings in order so time isn’t of the Code of Conduct without actually determining if there was Chair going forward. Jeremy has been on the committee for a long New in 2017: everyone on ACMG permits uploads their FA wasted while your name gets to the head of the queue. indeed a breach. Its purpose is to deal with frivolous complaints or time and I don’t know a better person for the job. He will serve the to their ACMG member records now themselves, and this Keeping documents current is each member’s responsibil- those that may have solutions that don’t require a resource-inten- membership well. Thank you for your support through the years and duckling is fully tamed! Pay attention, because you’ll need to ity, just as it is our own responsibility as grown-ups to keep our sive hearing. At the hearing level, a panel will actually determine don’t hesitate to contact Jeremy if you would like to be on the Com- do this every time your FA expires for as long as you apply for driver’s licence, registration, insurance and passport current. if there was or was not a breach of the code. If a PR ascertains mittee. The training is excellent and the perks are so… permits … Full disclosure: now that Alberta no longer mails out expiry that there may have been a breach, a remedy is often proposed Still on the Member Site, still in My Info, go to CPD Re- reminders of the first two in that list, your perfect Permit Man- to the member being complained of. That member may choose Rod Gibbons, an ACMG Mountain Guide and the Past Chair of the ports & First Aid > First Aid For Permits – On File tab. Read ager blew it this year, and enjoyed biking around Canmore in to agree to the remedy or not. In a hearing, the Conduct Review Conduct Review Committee, lives in Invermere, BC. the information on this page carefully and follow all instructions the snow for a few weeks : [ But I digress … Committee (CRC) will determine the remedy or to ultimately upload your FA to this page. sanction, which is binding. Your ACMG documents live on your Member Site. Get fa- Why? Each ACMG permit requires that each member on miliar with the site and all the tabs; the site is a great resource – it Also, the remedy of a Preliminary Review the permit has a current FA on file; a land manager can request can answer most member questions. Committee (PRC) is likely to have less “teeth” $150 to see this FA at any time. It makes sense to store your FA on than that of a CRC which could, at the extreme Let’s go to www.acmg.ca, log in to the Member Site (user your ACMG member record in a digital format; not only is it level, suspend or expel a member from the in rebates name and password) and go to My Info. For permits, My Info secure for you, it is available for permit use. But it will now be ACMG. In a nutshell, a PR comes to a mutu- is where member documents are stored and where all duck wran- up to you to keep this uploaded version current. ally agreed upon remedy and a hearing comes to gling takes place. YOUR FA MUST BE IN A JPG OR PNG FORMAT to a binding obligation. Because of this distinction Having clicked on My Info > Contact Info & Purchased upload. Honest, it won’t work if it is a PDF! A link to a free lawyers will likely be involved in a hearing. Services, Contact Info tab, below all your contact details you’ll online tool is on the page that will convert PDF’s to JPG’s; it has There are several ways that a Preliminary see your ACMG certifications, your Status, First Aid, and IGA a bunch of extra advertising (free tool, right?) but sift through Review might become a full Conduct Review (MPHIA) On File. Let’s focus on IGA, or Interpretive Guides the chaff and it will work. Patience. hearing. The PRC may decide that no remedy Association, certification (it was once called MPHIA). Okay, upload your current FA to your ACMG member re- would suffice to address the conduct they are re- IGA Certification Complete cord if you are buying ACMG permits, and update the details viewing. In that case, they would terminate the of provider and expiry dates. You will know right away if the PR and notify the Executive of the ACMG that The lack of IGA certification is the #2 reason that permit de- upload was successful by refreshing your browser – you should a hearing is to be struck on this matter. lays happen – we’ll get to #1, don’t worry. It’s only needed if see a small image of your FA at the bottom of the page. Alternatively, a proposed remedy may not be you are buying the NP licence but ya gotta have it then. It’s Heck, anyone can update details; real guides and instructors agreed to by the member being complained of; right on the NP order page in the online shopping cart, under upload. : } Done? Quack! Honk! or a member may not fulfill all the obligations Warning: in red “You must submit an IGA certificate.” See the of the remedy within the predetermined time Member Site > Member Services > Permits, Requirements tab Late Permit Reports frame, despite having signed an agreement. As inReach for more information about the IGA requirement and how to Oh, almost forgot! One more thing will delay permits and ac- above, the PRC would set the wheels in motion get a certificate. tually ban you from accessing ACMG permits altogether: late for a hearing.  2-way text messaging In a nutshell, members buying the ACMG National Parks permit reports. This isn’t a duckling – it’s a gnarly big goose. A few more fun facts about a hearing:  2-way SOS licence for the first time must provide proof of, at a minimum, One of your responsibilities as an ACMG permit holder is If a hearing is required, the new CRC will CONNECTED  Navigation and tracking the Basic level of IGA certification; this is a Parks Canada re- to report either usage or zero use for the summer AND winter be made up of new members from the pool. The  100% global coverage quirement for all licensees. You can’t change or upload your IGA periods by the deadline dates. That goes for everyone holding a members that sat on the PRC will not be in- information to your member record but you can email it to me; valid permit, no matter their certification. The deadline dates are volved in that CRC. I note it on your record and keep your card/certificate/marks on Reach anyone. Anywhere. Anytime ACMG file. Note that you do not have to be an IGA member – October 31 for summer, and March 31 for winter. Hearings are similar in format to trials, with evidence presented to the Conduct Review inReach SE®+ and inReach Explorer®+. Rugged design combined with two-way messaging, SOS, just hold the certificate. Done. Quack! New in 2017: if your permit report is late, and a pattern of panel in much the same way as before a judge and GPS – isnhRaeraec yho wuro jrokusr wnehye. rSet acey lsl apfheo anneds cdoonnn’te. cSteendd i na nthde r ebcaecikvceo munetsrsya wgieths , intrRigegaecrh a.n SOS, and First Aid Certificate on File Expired late reporting is clear, or you fail to submit a permit report or jury – perhaps with a little less screaming… altogether, you will be banned from ACMG permits for one Also, in a hearing there is an appeal process For a time-limited offer visit: http://www.inreachcanada.com/summer2017 Probably the #1 reason that permit delays happen is expired first year, without refunds!! The Arête 14 Summer 2017 Summer 2017 15 The Arête News Why? While there has always MCR/Informalex Committee Report been zero-tolerance for non-re- porters, it has become clear that By Larry Stanier the same late reporters consume resources every year. All three land managers now require the past The MCR/Informalex committee has been this project. Mountain Guide Brian Gould has been coerced year’s compiled use statistics before mainly chugging along through the process into stepping into the role of the new chair. Perhaps as the renewing our permits in April, or of fine tuning the ACMG/Arc’teryx MCR MCR chair Brian will be a rocker? The committee could really bill us interest on fees while we website. Marc Piché (Technical Director) use some new energy so if you are interested, please contact wait for late use reports to trickle and Elaine Powers (Administrative As- Brian Gould or Marc Ledwidge. They are in the phone book in. sistant) have been doing the lion’s share of (and in the contacts section at the back of this issue – Ed). What if you can’t remember the communication from the ACMG’s side I will stay on to manage the MCR summaries for the Rock- which permits you bought??? Easy. and John Irvine and Leah Nielsen from the ies and Columbia Mountains for the time being. Personally, I KINETIC PLUS JACKET Member Site > My Info > Con- Arc’teryx side. There has been lots of input and feedback from still think a Coast Range Mountain Conditions summary for A Pioneering new concept; a garment with the supple tact Info & Purchased Services handling properties and stretch of a soft shell, with several other ACMG members, most notably Ken Belanger the May to November period would be a beautiful thing. Any- the weather protection promise of a waterproof. > Permits Purchased tab. Ta da! (Partnership Coordinator) and Tom Wolfe (MCR/Informalex body need a project? Or, turn your ACMG member ID Committee). card over: which permit validation The MCR posts and informalex traffic have for a long time Larry Stanier, Past Chair of the MCR / Informalex Commit- stickers do you have and when do seemed very civilized, informative and well thought out. Many tee, is an ACMG Mountain Guide living in Canmore, AB they expire? Ta da!! mitted on time from prior permits. Then buy liability insurance thanks to all who have contributed to the quantity and quality Where do you submit your reports? One guess … Member and permits, knowing that things are just ducky!! of both those conversations. Site > My Info > Permit Reports and choose the appropri- I am stepping down as the chair (lazy boy/stool) of the ate park. Add Record and complete the form for each day you MCR/Informalex committee as it is time for some new eyes on Janet Miller, the Permit Manager, and Assistant to the Executive used the permit (do not clump three months of climbs/skis on Director, is an ACMG Day Hiking Guide, living in Canmore one form); hit Submit. Done!! Goosed!!! No, wait, that doesn’t AB. Professional Practices Committee Report sound right … So there you go – take charge of getting your IGA (for a NP licence) to me, your current FA uploaded and your reports sub- By Nathan Dahl This spring, the Professional Practice Com- site selection, modeling, interpretation, etc. Teaching an Ava- ACMG Scholarship News mittee (PPC) completed its fourth audit. lanche Skills Training course comes to mind. Ideally, when we Of the twenty members audited, eighteen are conducting a Professional Practice Audit, we do expect to By Derek Wilding met the requirements of their certifications, see some actual “boots on the ground” guiding, whether it be one was issued a provisional pass, and one traditional guiding/instruction, or falls under the umbrella of chose to resign from the Association. Fur- public safety work, education, or risk management. This sec- It’s scholarship application time! • Arc’teryx Equipment Award ($2000 equipment credit) thermore, the four members who received tion of the document is perhaps a little vague, so if you have At last year’s AGM in Canmore, ACMG • Arc’teryx Mentorship Award (funded training for apprentice provisional passes in the audit of Spring questions regarding your work, feel free to get in touch with members were awarded over $15,000 in guides) 2015 were re-visited. Of these members, three were found to myself, the Executive Director, or Technical Director. CMSG course subsidies, funded training & • Gougeon Scholarship ($500 CMSG course subsidies) have met the requirements of membership, and one chose to In the autumn of 2017, the PPC will be updating its mentorship, and equipment credit, through • Robson Gmoser Mentorship Fund (mentorship funding for ap- become an inactive member, which exempts them from pro- current Professional Activities Record (which can be found on the various partner awards and memo- prentice guides) fessional practice and CPD requirements. As of this June, 79 the ACMG member site) to include space for apprentice and rial funds. This year looks to be no differ- Note that this year’s Arc’teryx Mentorship award has been ACMG members have been audited. assistant guides from both the mountain and hiking streams ent with our partners again committing to earmarked for Apprentice Alpine Guides, with the training One topic of discussion that arose from the most re- to include the details of their supervising guide. Supervision is support ACMG members in their on-going efforts to pursue scheduled for the spring of 2018. cent audit was regarding section 2.5 of the Professional Practice already required for assistant and apprentice guides, so asking certification. The deadline to apply for all awards is August 15, 2017 with and Continuing Professional Development document. This these guides to list their supervisors is doing due diligence. If If you’re an apprentice guide or instructor looking to further the exception of the Robson Gmoser Mentorship Fund, which section states that “related risk management, education, and you are an apprentice or assistant guide and are not already do- your training or certification, login to the ACMG website to has a September 30 deadline. public safety work including consulting and administration are ing so, please record the details of your supervisor in the event preview and apply for one or more of the awards that may be Completed application forms can be emailed to the ACMG considered valid workdays”. The concern was that some guides you are selected for an audit in the future. available to you, including the; Scholarship Committee at [email protected] may have full time employment in situations where the mem- At the time of publication, the committee will be in • Brian Ebert Memorial Fund (funded training for apprentice ber is not directly responsible for the members of the public the process of conducting its fifth audit. If you have any ques- guides) with whom they are interacting. An example would be work- tions or feedback regarding the audit process, don’t hesitate to • D’Arcy McRae Memorial Scholarship ($500 CMSG course Derek Wilding, Chair of the Scholarship Committee, is an ing at a Visitor Information Centre, or doing purely classroom get in touch with me at [email protected]. subsidy) ACMG Rock Guide and Climbing Gym Instructor 3, living in based instruction. While these forms of employment certainly • Arc’teryx Scholarship (CMSG course subsidies $500, $1000, Calgary, AB benefit from a guide’s or instructor’s training and certification, $1500) they are different than those which are run in the field that Nathan Dahl, Chair of the Professional Practices Committee, require a degree of guiding skills, including risk management, is an ACMG Hiking Guide living in Canmore, AB The Arête 16 Summer 2017 Summer 2017 17 The Arête News Member Services Committee Report By Ben Firth As the recently appointed chair of the mem- vides financial help to ACMG members in financial distress, ber services committee, this update has been typically from an injury related to their work. In 2016 the a long time coming. My only excuse is hav- committee and Parboosingh fund distributed $7230 in finan- ing a well-honed trait for procrastination. cial aid to members in need. First, I want to thank the outgoing In the summer of 2016, the committee met in person chair, Jorg Wilz for his long service to the (perhaps for the first time) to rectify a number of outstanding ACMG and member services. We are lucky items which included revising the Parboosingh fund applica- to have Jorg’s expertise going forward as he tion form and decision making guidelines (the new application will continue as a regular member of the committee. form can be found here). The committee also reviewed: liabil- ity insurance pricing, supporting member driven fundraising efforts, managing the Robson Gmoser fund, and preliminary Committee Members: ideas on foreign guide mentorship for visiting guides. The Parboosingh fund application form revisions centred • Chair - Ben Firth around collecting relevant information that could better help the committee decide on the merit of the application in rela- • Jorg Wilz tion to the spirit and scope of the fund. A disclosure statement • Janet Miller was added as well to ensure sensitive information would be • Derek Holtved treated in confidence by the committee. • Christoph Dietzfelbinger The Parboosingh fund decision-making guidelines revi- • Mike Welch sions came from a desire to better assist committee members process timelines, and assess whether applications fulfilled the designed intent and vision of the fund. Changes to the If you are not already aware, the ACMG Member Services guidelines increased clarity on: evaluating financial need, de- Committee mission is to provide value-added benefit to ACMG termining the type of disbursements to be earmarked, setting members by exploring and providing new opportunities for ad- a baseline to ensure fund sustainability and setting maximum ditional or improved member services. disbursement amounts. An emergency loan provision has been submitted to the board to allow funds to be made available to Committee Roles and Responsibilities: members right when it’s needed. The meeting also saw extensive discussion on liability in- surance rates and corporate insurance. Since there is a small • Make recommendations to the Board and the Executive Direc- tor concerning improvements to the ACMG Liability and Per- surplus accumulating, the committee recommended a 5% sonal Accident Insurance Programs decrease to member liability insurance rates moving forward. The committee is in continual discussion regarding corpo- • Make recommendations to the Board, Executive Director and Permit Manager concerning improvements to the ACMG per- rate liability insurance. Decisions and directions on this are mit system forthcoming. • Advise the Board and the Executive Director on proposals for changes to any ACMG member service Future Plans • Make recommendations to the Board and the Executive Direc- tor concerning the addition of new member services Many plans lay ahead for the committee in 2017. These in- • Decide on applications for the Simon Parboosingh Fund clude drafting a preliminary plan for supporting member driven fundraising efforts for ACMG members in need, as well • Provide a summary of committee activities to the Board and the Executive as how and if the member services committee may oversee the Robson Gmoser Mentorship fund. • Provide a budget submission to the Executive Director when re- quested and administer the approved portion of the budget that As the member services committee is really about you, pertains to this committee. and meant to provide for the needs of all ACMG members, I wholeheartedly ask you to contact myself on how we can better serve the membership in the future if you have any suggestions. Simon Parboosingh Fund Most of the work in 2016 for the committee revolved around Ben Firth, the ACMG Member Services Committee Chair, is a evaluating applications for the Parboosingh fund, which pro- Mountain Guide living in Canmore, AB TNF_ACMG_PROGRESSOR_SUMMER_2017.indd 1 5/31/17 8:53 AM The Arête 18 Summer 2017 Summer 2017 19 The Arête

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Still on the Member Site, still in My Info, go to CPD Re- ports & First Aid For permits, My Info is where member documents are stored and where all duck wran- gling takes place. Having clicked on My Info > Contact Info & Purchased .. Among those teenagers were Diny Harrison and Rob Or- vig, who
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