Sul, Korean Alcoholic Beverages

76 Pages·2013·5.511 MB·English

by  Park Rock Darm, Lee Kun Wook

Cover_ Tajakdo(Threshing Rice; Collection of the National Museum of Korea)
Intangible Cultural Heritage of Korea from The Picture Book by Danwon by Kim Hong-do
Onggi
Published in 2010
Tal and Talchum
Published in 2011
Sul, Korean Alcoholic Beverages
Sul, Korean alcoholic beverages, has long been an integral part of life in Korea. Thought of as a medium for
communicating with God, sul from time immemorial to the present has occupied a special place in rites of
passage and seasonal customs. Profound significance and special attention were accorded to how sul of
various kinds were made, what vessels contained them, and how they were served, giving birth to a variety
of artifacts and manners ascribing meanings and roles of sul in Korean society. Understanding the history
and cultural value of sul will contribute to better appreciation and enjoyment of traditional Korean alcoholic
drinks.
Gat
Published in 2012
The National Research Institute of Cultural Heritage (NRICH) carries
out research, survey, and development projects for the proper
recognition, conservation, and usage of the nation’s cultural
heritage. Since the NRICH was firstly established in 1969 as a
division of the Bureau of the Cultural Heritage Administration,
cultural heritage research has been highly specialized, and we
currently have some 350 researchers working in the divisions of
Archaeology, Artistic Heritage, Architectural Heritage, Intangible
Cultural Heritage, Natural Heritage, and Conservation Science.
This book is the fourth publication of the series of ”Intangible
Cultural Heritage of Korea” planned by the NRICH for publicizing
the Korean intangible cultural heritage to the world. On the
basis of the accumulated studies, this book provides valuable
information to the general public and researchers who are
Republic of Korea interested in Korean intangible cultural heritage.
ISBN 978-89-299-0176-9 93590
Government Publication Number
11-1550011-000578-01
www.nrich.go.kr/eng

Intangible Cultural Heritage of Korea
Contents
1 Sul in Korean Life 3 Sul in Art and Customs
1. 13 81
Why Early Koreans Made Sul Artists
Early Concept of Sul Paintings
History of Sul Artifacts
20 102
Nuruk Seasonal Customs
Flavors, Colors, and Fragrances Rites of Passages
Hyangeumjurye and Giroyeon
24
Sul Types by Filtering Methods 116
Sul Types by Production Methods Drinking Manners
Sul Types by Number of Fermentations Drinking Customs
Sul Types by Ingredients of the Primary Mash Drinking Culture
2 Sul Designated as Important Appendix
Intangible Cultural Heritage
Sul Designated as Intangible Cultural Heritage
3 9 at City and Province Levels 122
Origin and Transmission
Glossary 134
Making Process
A Breathing, Living Liquid
51
Origin and Transmission
Making Process
Flowery Intoxication
65
Origin and Transmission
Making Process
Ambrosial Distillate
Greetings
For Koreans, sul has always been not just an alcoholic Made from nuruk, Korean alcoholic beverages are famous for
(cid:69)(cid:72)(cid:89)(cid:72)(cid:85)(cid:68)(cid:74)(cid:72)(cid:3)(cid:87)(cid:82)(cid:3)(cid:71)(cid:85)(cid:76)(cid:81)(cid:78)(cid:3)(cid:68)(cid:81)(cid:71)(cid:3)(cid:72)(cid:81)(cid:77)(cid:82)(cid:92)(cid:3)(cid:76)(cid:81)(cid:3)(cid:72)(cid:68)(cid:70)(cid:75)(cid:3)(cid:82)(cid:87)(cid:75)(cid:72)(cid:85)(cid:182)(cid:86)(cid:3)(cid:70)(cid:82)(cid:80)(cid:83)(cid:68)(cid:81)(cid:92)(cid:15)(cid:3)(cid:69)(cid:88)(cid:87)(cid:3)(cid:68)(cid:3)(cid:86)(cid:76)(cid:74)(cid:81)(cid:76)(cid:191)(cid:70)(cid:68)(cid:81)(cid:87)(cid:3) gentle colors, mellow tastes, and nice fragrances. Some are enduringly
medium that serves a sacred purpose, such as communion with God associated with sad or pleasant stories; many old-time favorites
and pouring blessings on the union of a couple being married. Sul continue to be brewed with diverse materials gathered from nature.
is deeply rooted in the life of the Korean people whose tradition of The varieties and meanings of sul are wide and deep.
drinking accompanied with singing and dancing is time-honored.
This is the fourth in a series of books published with a view to
As much as they like alcoholic drinks, Koreans have long promoting and raising awareness of Korean intangible cultural
paid great attention to how it is consumed and where it is served. Its heritage. This publication is divided into three chapters through
venerable place in the culture is evidenced by a wide range of which readers are introduced to the history of sul, nationally
ancient cups and bottles used for containing sul in the nation’s designed and local specialty alcoholic beverages, and traditional
material legacy, along with a number of paintings and songs artistry inspired by sul.
featuring sul-related themes. Drinking manners, along with
traditional techniques for producing alcoholic beverages, have This publication is designed to invite those who have yet to
been transmitted from time immemorial. Different regions infuse know about Korean alcoholic beverages to enjoy their colorful,
different characteristics in local alcohols. Sul has been an integral delicious, and fragrant qualities.
part of Korean life and art.
July 31, 2013
Dr. KIM Young-Won
Director General
National Research Institute of Cultural Heritage
Sul
in Korean Life
Sul Korean A, Sul, Traditio
lcoholic nal Liqu
Beverage or in Kore
s a
8 9
1
Sul in Korean Life
Sul, Korean alcoholic beverages, has long been an
integral part of life in Korea. Thought of as a medium for
communicating with God, sul from time immemorial to
the present has occupied a special place in rites of passage
(cid:68)(cid:81)(cid:71)(cid:3)(cid:86)(cid:72)(cid:68)(cid:86)(cid:82)(cid:81)(cid:68)(cid:79)(cid:3)(cid:70)(cid:88)(cid:86)(cid:87)(cid:82)(cid:80)(cid:86)(cid:17)(cid:3)(cid:51)(cid:85)(cid:82)(cid:73)(cid:82)(cid:88)(cid:81)(cid:71)(cid:3)(cid:86)(cid:76)(cid:74)(cid:81)(cid:76)(cid:191)(cid:70)(cid:68)(cid:81)(cid:70)(cid:72)(cid:3)(cid:68)(cid:81)(cid:71)(cid:3)(cid:86)(cid:83)(cid:72)(cid:70)(cid:76)(cid:68)(cid:79)(cid:3)
attention were accorded to how sul of various
kinds were made, what vessels contained
them, and how they were served, giving birth
to a variety of artifacts and manners ascribing
meanings and roles of sul in Korean society.
Understanding the history and cultural value of
sul will contribute to better appreciation and
enjoyment of traditional Korean alcoholic
drinks.
Sul Korean Alco, Su
holic B lin Ko
everages 0F1a _m Tialbiewso annddos forhieonedjisd og a(Gthaethre orinn gN feowr DYerianrk’isn gD Dayo stooj ud raitn Tka dbowsoonj)u b tyo Awna Jrdu nogff- seivkil. rean Life
spirits and to maintain health throughout the year.
10 11
01
© Gansong Art Museum
Overview
Why Early Koreans Made Sul
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it can only be guaranteed by successful fermentation. Therefore,
(cid:46)(cid:82)(cid:85)(cid:72)(cid:68)(cid:81)(cid:3)(cid:68)(cid:81)(cid:70)(cid:72)(cid:86)(cid:87)(cid:82)(cid:85)(cid:86)(cid:3)(cid:69)(cid:72)(cid:79)(cid:76)(cid:72)(cid:89)(cid:72)(cid:71)(cid:3)(cid:87)(cid:75)(cid:68)(cid:87)(cid:3)(cid:90)(cid:75)(cid:68)(cid:87)(cid:3)(cid:71)(cid:72)(cid:87)(cid:72)(cid:85)(cid:80)(cid:76)(cid:81)(cid:72)(cid:71)(cid:3)(cid:192)(cid:68)(cid:89)(cid:82)(cid:85)(cid:3)(cid:68)(cid:81)(cid:71)(cid:3)(cid:73)(cid:85)(cid:68)(cid:74)(cid:85)(cid:68)(cid:81)(cid:70)(cid:72)(cid:3)
of sul were divine powers, not human endeavor. This is why the verb
pray (bil-da or bit-da) is used in Korean expressions to suggest the
brewing or distilling of sul. The word can be interpreted with diverse
meanings.
Korean ancestors prepared for sul making by praying to God to
help them make good quality sul. They thought that divine power
(cid:83)(cid:79)(cid:68)(cid:92)(cid:72)(cid:71)(cid:3)(cid:68)(cid:3)(cid:86)(cid:76)(cid:74)(cid:81)(cid:76)(cid:191)(cid:70)(cid:68)(cid:81)(cid:87)(cid:3)(cid:85)(cid:82)(cid:79)(cid:72)(cid:3)(cid:76)(cid:81)(cid:3)(cid:87)(cid:75)(cid:72)(cid:3)(cid:69)(cid:85)(cid:72)(cid:90)(cid:76)(cid:81)(cid:74)(cid:3)(cid:82)(cid:73)(cid:3)(cid:86)(cid:88)(cid:79)(cid:3)(cid:68)(cid:81)(cid:71)(cid:3)(cid:83)(cid:68)(cid:85)(cid:87)(cid:76)(cid:70)(cid:88)(cid:79)(cid:68)(cid:85)(cid:79)(cid:92)(cid:3)
marveled at the fermentation process wherein microorganisms
(cid:83)(cid:85)(cid:82)(cid:71)(cid:88)(cid:70)(cid:72)(cid:3) (cid:68)(cid:79)(cid:70)(cid:82)(cid:75)(cid:82)(cid:79)(cid:3) (cid:68)(cid:79)(cid:82)(cid:81)(cid:74)(cid:3) (cid:90)(cid:76)(cid:87)(cid:75)(cid:3) (cid:68)(cid:3) (cid:85)(cid:68)(cid:81)(cid:74)(cid:72)(cid:3) (cid:82)(cid:73)(cid:3) (cid:192)(cid:68)(cid:89)(cid:82)(cid:85)(cid:86)(cid:3) (cid:68)(cid:81)(cid:71)(cid:3) (cid:73)(cid:85)(cid:68)(cid:74)(cid:85)(cid:68)(cid:81)(cid:70)(cid:72)(cid:86)(cid:3)
surpassing those of the original ingredients. In their belief, humans
could only make efforts for good results, but the results are actually
decided by God. When making sul, they cleansed body and mind,
and anxiously awaited the answer from God.
Sul Korean Alco, rthegeyaTr bhdreeeydw apesrd af ysoueoldd u ffsooinrr gGc otohmde,m cnhuoontii cofeonsr t w hguirtmahi naGns soa.dn A dbf oytef rfo etfrhfeeedr i yniteg at orsl uyGl .oh daItr. vwesats, Su
holic B lin Ko
everages rean Life
12 13
02
Early Koreans made sul praying for good fortune for those who Early Concept of Sul
would consume the drink. Different techniques and ingredients were
used depending on who would drink the sul and for what purpose: (cid:46)(cid:82)(cid:85)(cid:72)(cid:68)(cid:81)(cid:3)(cid:68)(cid:81)(cid:70)(cid:72)(cid:86)(cid:87)(cid:82)(cid:85)(cid:86)(cid:3)(cid:87)(cid:75)(cid:82)(cid:88)(cid:74)(cid:75)(cid:87)(cid:3)(cid:82)(cid:73)(cid:3)(cid:86)(cid:88)(cid:79)(cid:3)(cid:68)(cid:86)(cid:3)(cid:179)(cid:191)(cid:85)(cid:72)(cid:3)(cid:70)(cid:82)(cid:81)(cid:87)(cid:68)(cid:76)(cid:81)(cid:72)(cid:71)(cid:3)(cid:76)(cid:81)(cid:3)(cid:90)(cid:68)(cid:87)(cid:72)(cid:85)(cid:17)(cid:180)(cid:3)(cid:36)(cid:86)(cid:3)(cid:86)(cid:88)(cid:79)(cid:3)
as an offering to dead souls or human drinkers, and family elders or undergoes fermentation, microorganisms convert sugar to alcohol
guests; and whether it would be used for a farming ritual or festival along with carbon dioxide, and carbon dioxide produced during
and intended for sale or as a gift. fermentation generates bubbles. Witnessing sul bubbling up, Korean
(cid:73)(cid:82)(cid:85)(cid:72)(cid:73)(cid:68)(cid:87)(cid:75)(cid:72)(cid:85)(cid:86)(cid:3)(cid:68)(cid:86)(cid:86)(cid:88)(cid:80)(cid:72)(cid:71)(cid:3)(cid:87)(cid:75)(cid:68)(cid:87)(cid:3)(cid:191)(cid:85)(cid:72)(cid:3)(cid:70)(cid:68)(cid:80)(cid:72)(cid:3)(cid:76)(cid:81)(cid:87)(cid:82)(cid:3)(cid:69)(cid:72)(cid:76)(cid:81)(cid:74)(cid:3)(cid:82)(cid:88)(cid:87)(cid:3)(cid:82)(cid:73)(cid:3)(cid:81)(cid:82)(cid:90)(cid:75)(cid:72)(cid:85)(cid:72)(cid:17)(cid:3)(cid:55)(cid:75)(cid:72)(cid:76)(cid:85)(cid:3)
Each household had its own way of making sul as late as 100 concept of sul was also based on the traditional Eastern principle
years ago. Alcohols made by private houses were used for paying of yin and yang: cool and calm, water represented yin, and hot
tribute to dead forbears or natural deities, for festivals, for farming (cid:68)(cid:81)(cid:71)(cid:3)(cid:85)(cid:76)(cid:86)(cid:76)(cid:81)(cid:74)(cid:15)(cid:3)(cid:191)(cid:85)(cid:72)(cid:3)(cid:85)(cid:72)(cid:83)(cid:85)(cid:72)(cid:86)(cid:72)(cid:81)(cid:87)(cid:72)(cid:71)(cid:3)(cid:92)(cid:68)(cid:81)(cid:74)(cid:30)(cid:3)(cid:86)(cid:88)(cid:79)(cid:3)(cid:90)(cid:68)(cid:86)(cid:3)(cid:85)(cid:72)(cid:74)(cid:68)(cid:85)(cid:71)(cid:72)(cid:71)(cid:3)(cid:68)(cid:86)(cid:3)(cid:87)(cid:75)(cid:72)(cid:3)(cid:83)(cid:72)(cid:85)(cid:73)(cid:72)(cid:70)(cid:87)(cid:3)
rituals to ensure a good harvest, and for offering hospitality to guests. combination of yin and yang.
Sul was made considering who would consume it and served with
Sul Korean Alco, exquisite manners. cwecmhoaanrbrIsmaomuclsmdbt eetuehrnedies d otn biwncooesitdt htytjhou ,i a stlsstti faucttysoan n iotqgnhrueoe etd t sotdbpa reiswur tinfehto ,kaa u,atn n ndbidsd us ticcs neooe nnmtnhtsj,eeoi edt yiaoemecrrdeiheg d skai nsiaana bddalnd ioolgnefrigs mfsr tuet ahlfdl re.pio e oSmmnsutsi slneG . sdwSos eatudossl, Su
holic B with yin and yang contained in great harmony. Making sul was lin Ko
everages (0H2i _s Ttohreic a Sbiatelo Nnoe.-1s) hina pGeyde ownagtjeur. Tchhae nkninegl aatn tdh neo sbitlee mofe Pno esnejookyejedo pnoge Ptrayv ailniodn d rinking rean Life
from wine cups floating down the water channel during the United Silla period.
14 15
03
ccoonnsidered as belonging to the divine domain, not the humanly one. The oldest record of sul is found in a story about the founding
HHuumans would do their best to ensure good conditions and learn of the Goguryeo Kingdom in Samguk sagi (History of the Three
rreelevant skills, but it would be godly power that made quality sul. Kingdoms) compiled in 1145. The story goes: “Haemosu, the son
When brewing or distilling sul, Korean ancestors did the work of the god of heaven invited the three daughters of Habaek, a water
with all their heart and mind, praying to God for good results. deity, and treated them to sul. When the three daughters were about
When it was done, they drank sul wishing to connect with God to return home, he seduced the eldest daughter, Yuhwa, and they
and dedicated the drink to God for the health and prosperity of spent the night together. Thereafter, Yuhwa gave birth to Jumong,
their family and offspring. (cid:87)(cid:75)(cid:72)(cid:3)(cid:73)(cid:88)(cid:87)(cid:88)(cid:85)(cid:72)(cid:3)(cid:73)(cid:82)(cid:88)(cid:81)(cid:71)(cid:72)(cid:85)(cid:3)(cid:82)(cid:73)(cid:3)(cid:42)(cid:82)(cid:74)(cid:88)(cid:85)(cid:92)(cid:72)(cid:82)(cid:17)(cid:180)
During the Three Kingdoms period (57 B.C.–A.D. 676), brewing
techniques achieved a high level of advancement. Goguryeo people
HHiistory of Sul had a custom of eating porridge or steamed grain powder with milk.
This dietary practice arguably led to the creation of sul, which
TThhee origin of the term sul is associated with the ancient Korean corresponds with the theory on the etymology of the term sul coming
(cid:70)(cid:82)(cid:81)(cid:70)(cid:72)(cid:83)(cid:87)(cid:3)(cid:82)(cid:73)(cid:3)(cid:191)(cid:85)(cid:72)(cid:3)(cid:70)(cid:82)(cid:80)(cid:76)(cid:81)(cid:74)(cid:3)(cid:82)(cid:88)(cid:87)(cid:3)(cid:82)(cid:73)(cid:3)(cid:90)(cid:68)(cid:87)(cid:72)(cid:85)(cid:30)(cid:3)(cid:87)(cid:75)(cid:72)(cid:3)(cid:87)(cid:90)(cid:82)(cid:3)(cid:46)(cid:82)(cid:85)(cid:72)(cid:68)(cid:81)(cid:3)(cid:90)(cid:82)(cid:85)(cid:71)(cid:86)(cid:3)(cid:73)(cid:82)(cid:85)(cid:3)(cid:90)(cid:68)(cid:87)(cid:72)(cid:85)(cid:3) from su-eul, referring to milk porridge and bird droppings. Historical
(cid:68)(cid:81)(cid:71)(cid:3)(cid:191)(cid:85)(cid:72)(cid:3)(cid:90)(cid:72)(cid:85)(cid:72)(cid:3)(cid:77)(cid:82)(cid:76)(cid:81)(cid:72)(cid:71)(cid:3)(cid:87)(cid:82)(cid:3)(cid:70)(cid:85)(cid:72)(cid:68)(cid:87)(cid:72)(cid:3)(cid:87)(cid:75)(cid:72)(cid:3)(cid:87)(cid:72)(cid:85)(cid:80)(cid:3)sul. The word su, meaning writings note, “People from Goguryeo defeated the ruler of Yodong
water, and the word bul(cid:15)(cid:3)(cid:80)(cid:72)(cid:68)(cid:81)(cid:76)(cid:81)(cid:74)(cid:3)(cid:191)(cid:85)(cid:72)(cid:15)(cid:3)(cid:90)(cid:72)(cid:85)(cid:72)(cid:3)(cid:70)(cid:82)(cid:80)(cid:69)(cid:76)(cid:81)(cid:72)(cid:71)(cid:3)(cid:87)(cid:82)(cid:3)(cid:69)(cid:72)(cid:70)(cid:82)(cid:80)(cid:72)(cid:3)su- of the Chinese Han Dynasty by brewing jiju (an alcoholic drink(cid:12)(cid:180)(cid:3)(cid:68)(cid:81)(cid:71)(cid:3)
bul, which would then be pronounced su-eul, thence sul. (cid:179)(cid:72)(cid:81)(cid:77)(cid:82)(cid:92)(cid:72)(cid:71)(cid:3)(cid:87)(cid:75)(cid:72)(cid:3)(cid:70)(cid:82)(cid:81)(cid:86)(cid:88)(cid:80)(cid:83)(cid:87)(cid:76)(cid:82)(cid:81)(cid:3)(cid:68)(cid:81)(cid:71)(cid:3)(cid:86)(cid:87)(cid:82)(cid:85)(cid:68)(cid:74)(cid:72)(cid:3)(cid:82)(cid:73)(cid:3)(cid:73)(cid:72)(cid:85)(cid:80)(cid:72)(cid:81)(cid:87)(cid:72)(cid:71)(cid:3)(cid:73)(cid:82)(cid:82)(cid:71)(cid:86)(cid:17)(cid:180)(cid:3)(cid:55)(cid:75)(cid:72)(cid:85)(cid:72)(cid:3)(cid:76)(cid:86)(cid:3)
a record to show that Japan learned brewing skills from Korea. An
Another hypothesis is that the term sul originated from the old Japanese book, Gosagi (Historical Stories), notes, “Inbeon from
Chinese characters (cid:3512)(cid:639), or su-eul, meaning tarakjuk (Korean milk Baekje transferred techniques for making sul to Japan. Drinking it,
(cid:83)(cid:82)(cid:85)(cid:85)(cid:76)(cid:71)(cid:74)(cid:72)(cid:12)(cid:3)(cid:68)(cid:81)(cid:71)(cid:3)(cid:69)(cid:76)(cid:85)(cid:71)(cid:17)(cid:3)(cid:55)(cid:75)(cid:76)(cid:86)(cid:3)(cid:75)(cid:92)(cid:83)(cid:82)(cid:87)(cid:75)(cid:72)(cid:86)(cid:76)(cid:86)(cid:3)(cid:68)(cid:86)(cid:86)(cid:88)(cid:80)(cid:72)(cid:86)(cid:3)(cid:87)(cid:75)(cid:68)(cid:87)(cid:3)(cid:86)(cid:88)(cid:79)(cid:3)(cid:90)(cid:68)(cid:86)(cid:3)(cid:191)(cid:85)(cid:86)(cid:87)(cid:3)(cid:73)(cid:82)(cid:88)(cid:81)(cid:71)(cid:3) the emperor joyfully danced and regardedd hhiimm aass
from leftover milk porridge which underwent fermentation after (cid:68)(cid:3)(cid:181)(cid:79)(cid:76)(cid:84)(cid:88)(cid:82)(cid:85)(cid:3)(cid:71)(cid:72)(cid:76)(cid:87)(cid:92)(cid:182)(cid:17)(cid:180)
birds’ waste accidentally dropped into it.
During the Goryeo Dynasty (918–
The etymology of the term sul suggests that the beverage was
1392), the development of brewing
spontaneously created in Korea. Fungi or bacteria from the air could
Sul Korean Alco, hamnaevdte ha onfdecsri mefnoetrn bKteroedwr esianunggs a arrl eci-onch roefalriutcei tdbs e tvohere r agagrceacsiin.d se natnald pprorocdeussc etdo adlecvoehloolp, mpw(cid:71)ch(cid:76)ea(cid:89)erestf(cid:72)oh e(cid:85)noac(cid:86)g(cid:76)dtd(cid:191)ejosud(cid:72) p ,(cid:71)t fa((cid:3)eocndr(cid:76)l d.(cid:81)e a(cid:87)gTa(cid:82)rr h (cid:3)naeier(cid:86)ni w(cid:72)c c(cid:89)e aat (cid:72)etl(cid:85)ecwc(cid:68)goh(cid:79)ioh(cid:3)nnroei(cid:74)iql)e(cid:85)s,us(cid:82) e (cid:88)th,oa (cid:83)adfk(cid:86) dij(cid:3)ssu tu (cid:76)ib(cid:81)ll(l e(cid:70)tiewhn(cid:79)n(cid:88)igec (cid:71)(cid:71),rrkk (cid:76)(cid:76)ee(cid:81)(cid:81) (cid:74)(cid:74)rrii(cid:3)(cid:3)ccee Su
holic B lin Ko
everages 0034 __ SPuegaic, hb-osthtlaepse uds seidlv etor ccautpcsh. Csoojlule fcrotimon a o df tishteil Nleart.ional Palace Museum of Korea. 04 rean Life
16 17