Coco Cardigan, see page 332. Stitch ’n Bitch Superstar Knitting GO BEYOND THE BASICS Debbie Stoller with photography by Gabrielle Revere WORKMAN PUBLISHING • NEW YORK ACKNOWLEDGMENTS This has been the longest, most postponeiest book I’ve ever done. For their incredible patience and generosity in working with me and my busy schedule, and for allowing me the time I needed to recover from some health-related events, I am forever indebted to Peter Workman and especially Suzie Bolotin. I cannot express how thankful I am for their help, not just professionally, but also personally. I am so very happy that my editor, Ruth Sullivan, was available to work on this book again. Not only did she manage to carefully edit a highly technical book even though she hasn’t gone beyond the first Stitch ’n Bitch book’s skills in her own knitting, but she also managed to do so while dealing with some health issues of her own. Even when it’s wounded, her talented hand is able to make my writing so very much better, and I don’t know what I’d do without her. I’m equally glad that Janet Vicario was able to art direct the book and photo shoots once again; she always knows just what to do to make everything look great. On this book, she was assisted by Jen Browning and Claudia Petrilli, who brought a whole new level of cuteness to the page designs. And to Adrienne Yan, who had to draw my creaky hands over and over again, thank you so much. Also, a special shout-out to Julianna Cavano, Jodi Doff, and Peter Stoller for taking reference photos for all those illos. Edie Eckman and Eve Ng brought their careful eagle eyes to their pattern tech-edits, and Irene Demchyshyn brought her No. 2 pencil to get all the copyediting done well and correctly. For their precision, patience, and good humor in the face of a lengthy and challenging project, I am ever thankful. Photo editor Anne Kerman and her lovely team, including photo coordinator Danielle Hark and photo assistant Sophia Su, produced an exquisitely beautiful photo shoot for this book. I am most grateful to the talents of wonderful photographer Gabrielle Revere, amazing wardrobe stylist Ellen Silverstein and her assistant Lisa Metropolis, skilled hair and makeup gal Amy Schiappa, and photographer’s assistant Hibbard Nash and digital tech, Jessie Adler. None of these projects would look nearly as adorable if they weren’t being worn by such great models: Chyna, Ciara, Hannah, and Jeanette, as well as John, Shannon, and Dudly the dog of Ocean Grove, New Jersey, where these photos were shot. And, once again, I am grateful to Michael Lavine for taking such a nice cover photo despite the poor choice of model. Of course, there wouldn’t even be any projects to photograph if it weren’t for the incredible talents of all of the designers who allowed me to include their patterns in this book. I am so amazed at their mad skillz, and insanely indebted to them for their contributions. Every girl needs some backup, and I am so glad that Jennifer Wertkin and Sarah Graham were available to assist me with this book project, and thankful to Jill Astmann, Marney Andersen, and Jennifer Wendell for their helpful knitting hands. My agent and fairy godmother, Flip Brophy, continues to make my life so much better, and I deeply appreciate the lovely ladies at BUST magazine, especially my biz partner Laurie Henzel, for giving me the space I needed to write. Finally, for all the support they give me in everything I do, I want to thank my mom, Johanna Stoller, and my boo and best friend, Michael Uman. CONTENTS INTRODUCTION PART I: THE STITCHES CHAPTER 1 ROWS ARE RED, ROWS ARE BLUE: COLOR KNITTING USING ONE COLOR AT A TIME Stripes? Cripes! * Making Clean Color Changes in Ribbing * The Underappreciated Slip Stitch * Color by Numbers * Slip-Stitching in the Round * Two-Color Tubular Knitting * Double Knitting CHAPTER 2 KNIT, IF YOU WILL, A PICTURE: CREATING IMAGES WITH INTARSIA The Rules of the Game * The Right Yarn for the Job * Yarn Lengths in Intarsia * Making a Figure Eight Yarn Bobbin * Adding a New Color Yarn * Linking Your Yarns Together * Tight-Knit Edges * Combining Intarsia and Stranded Knitting * Crocheting Vertical Color Columns * Nip/Tuck Finishing * Intarsia in the Round The Life Aquatic, see page 202. CHAPTER 3 STRAND AND DELIVER: TWO-COLOR KNITTING USING THE STRANDED TECHNIQUE Finding the Right Yarn Hold * Float Like a Butterfly * Yarn Dominance * How to “Catch” Floats: Catching Techniques for Different Hand Holds * Let’s Talk About Steeks, Baby * Different Steeks for Different Freaks * Picking Up Stitches on Steeked Projects CHAPTER 4 CABLES AND BITS: ADDING TEXTURE IN YOUR KNITTING WITH CABLES, TWISTED STITCHES, BOBBLES, AND MORE Look Ma! No Needle! * Cable Guide * Traveling Stitches * 2-Stitch Crosses and Twists * Bavarian Twisted Switch * Fake It Till You Make It * How to Fix Miscrossed Cables * The Color Cable * Adjusting Your Fabric for Cables * Bobble Heads Love Me or Leaf Me Bag, see page 250. CHAPTER 5 LACE: THE FINAL FRONTIER Selecting Your Materials * The Lace Knitter’s Tool Kit: Yarn Overs and Decreases * Reading Lace Charts * The Hole Story of Creating Lace * Lace Bandages: Preventing and Dealing With Mistakes * Who You Calling a Faggot? * Shaping in Lace Knitting * Cast-Ons and Bind-Offs for Lace * Blocking Lace * Know Your Nupps CHAPTER 6 KNIT BLING BLING: ADDING A LITTLE SUMPIN’ SUMPIN’ WITH BEADS AND EMBROIDERY Beads on a Wire * Beading Between the Lines * The Bead Goes On * All-Over “Bead Knitting” * By Hook or By Crook * Embroidery on Knitting * Stitching Like a Big Girl CHAPTER 7 STITCH WITCHERY: A USEFUL ASSORTMENT OF STITCHES Start Me Up * Provisional Cast-Ons * Tubular Cast-Ons * Happy Endings * A Smorgasbord of Increases and Decreases * Kitchener Stitch Every Which Way * Cords * Buttonhole Surfers * Short Rows Sweetheart Sweater, see page 315. PART II: HOW TO CREATE YOUR OWN PATTERNS CHAPTER 8 DIY: DESIGN IT YOURSELF: SKETCHING, SWATCHING, MEASURING, AND DRAFTING Dream a Little Dream * Sketch and Kvetch * Swatch Watch * Pattern Drafting * Measure Twice, Knit Once: Gauge * Measuring Up: Taking Body Measurements for Pattern Drafting * Knitting by the Numbers Tiger Lily Stuffed Animal, see page 345. CHAPTER 9 DROP IT LIKE IT’S HOT: DRAFTING A DROP-SHOULDER SWEATER Filling in the Measurements * Filling in the Stitches * All About Ease * Writing Out the Pattern * The Magic Formula * Modified Drop Shoulder CHAPTER 10 FROM RAGS TO RICHES: DRAFTING RAGLAN-SLEEVE AND CIRCULAR YOKE SWEATERS Filling in the Measurements * Filling in the Stitches * The Perfect Sleeve Cap Width * Writing Out the Pattern * Raglan in the Round * Circular Yoke Sweater * Placing Designs and Futzing with the Formulas CHAPTER 11 BRINGING OUT THE BIG GUNS: THE SET-IN SLEEVE SWEATER Filling in the Measurements * Filling in the Stitches * Writing Out the Pattern CHAPTER 12 DETAILS, DETAILS: NECKLINES, CARDIGAN BANDS, AND ESTIMATING YARN AMOUNTS Ring Around the Collar * Designing a Cardigan * I’m With the Band * How Much Yarn? You Do the Math * One, Two, Pick up Stitch ABBREVIATIONS PART III: THE PATTERNS COLOR BASICS AND STITCH WITCHERY Dress to Impress Baby Dress Dutch Touch Skirt Baby Corn Dress Tulip Top Rococo Shawl Tiptoes Socks INTARSIA AND STRANDED KNITTING Squirrelly Mittens Hip Hop Blanket Steeks and Stones Cardigan The Life Aquatic Sweater Skull Isle Socks Button It! Kid’s Sweater Lotus Bag Sheepy Time Kid’s Sweater Bookish Cardigan In Bloom Bag Little Red Riding Hoodie, see page 254. CABLES, BOBBLES, AND TRAVELING STITCHES Sea and Surf Sweater Colorful Cable Hat Gretel Tam Dog-O-Matic Doggie Sweater Love Me or Leaf Me Bag Little Red Riding Hoodie Lattice Top Fertility Blanket Saxon the City Stockings Laced-Up Socks LACE Frilly Filly Scarf No Plastic Please Mesh Tote Crush Shrug The Empire Strikes Back Dress Nip/Tuck Sweater English Mesh Lace Skirt Leafy Lace Cardigan Sweetheart Sweater Haiku Sweater Flirty Knee-highs BEADS AND EMBROIDERY Beatrice Gloves Coco Cardigan Sparkle Sweater Moonshine Wristlets Tiger Lily Stuffed Animal INDEX CREDITS