Stitch 'n Bitch Superstar Knitting: Go Beyond the Basics

369 Pages·2010·152.2 MB·English

by  Debbie Stoller

Stitch’n bitch
SuperstAr
KNITTING
 
Coco Cardigan,
see page 332.
Debbie Stoller
Stitch’n bitch
SuperstAr
KNITTING

GO BEYOND THE BASICS
Debbie Stoller
with photography by Gabrielle Revere
W O R K M A N P U B L I S H I N G • N E W Y O R K
Button It! Kid’s
Sweater patches,
see page 210.
Copyright © 2010 by Debbie Stoller
Design copyright © by Workman Publishing
All rights reserved. No portion of this book may be reproduced—
mechanically, electronically, or by any other means, including photocopying—
without written permission of the publisher. Published simultaneously in
Canada by Thomas Allen & Son Limited.
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data is available.
ISBN 978-0-7611-3597-5
Interior design by Sara Edward-Corbett
Page layout by Claudia Petrilli and Jen Browning
Cover design by Janet Vicario
Cover photo by Michael Lavine
Illustrations by Adrienne Yan

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Printed in the United States of America
First printing October 2010
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
Acknowledgments
T his has been the longest, most postpone- Photo editor Anne Kerman and her lovely team,
iest book I’ve ever done. For their incredible including photo coordinator Danielle Hark and photo
patience and generosity in working with me and assistant Sophia Su, produced an exquisitely beautiful
my busy schedule, and for allowing me the time I needed photo shoot for this book. I am most grateful to the tal-
to recover from some health-related events, I am forever ents of wonderful photographer Gabrielle Revere, amazing
indebted to Peter Workman and especially Suzie Bolotin. wardrobe stylist Ellen Silverstein and her assistant Lisa
I cannot express how thankful I am for their help, not just Metropolis, skilled hair and makeup gal Amy Schiappa,
professionally, but also personally. and photographer’s assistant Hibbard Nash and digital
I am so very happy that my editor, Ruth Sullivan, tech, Jessie Adler. None of these projects would look nearly
was available to work on this book again. Not only did as adorable if they weren’t being worn by such great mod-
she manage to carefully edit a highly technical book even els: Chyna, Ciara, Hannah, and Jeanette, as well as John,
though she hasn’t gone beyond the first Stitch ’n Bitch Shannon, and Dudly the dog of Ocean Grove, New Jersey,
book’s skills in her own knitting, but she also managed to where these photos were shot. And, once again, I am grate-
do so while dealing with some health issues of her own. ful to Michael Lavine for taking such a nice cover photo
Even when it’s wounded, her talented hand is able to make despite the poor choice of model.
my writing so very much better, and I don’t know what I’d Of course, there wouldn’t even be any projects to
do without her. photograph if it weren’t for the incredible talents of all of
I’m equally glad that Janet Vicario was able to art direct the designers who allowed me to include their patterns in
the book and photo shoots once again; she always knows this book. I am so amazed at their mad skillz, and insanely
just what to do to make everything look great. On this book, indebted to them for their contributions.
she was assisted by Jen Browning and Claudia Petrilli, who Every girl needs some backup, and I am so glad that
brought a whole new level of cuteness to the page designs. Jennifer Wertkin and Sarah Graham were available to assist
And to Adrienne Yan, who had to draw my creaky hands me with this book project, and thankful to Jill Astmann,
over and over again, thank you so much. Also, a special Marney Andersen, and Jennifer Wendell for their helpful
shout-out to Julianna Cavano, Jodi Doff, and Peter Stoller knitting hands.
for taking reference photos for all those illos. My agent and fairy godmother, Flip Brophy, continues
Edie Eckman and Eve Ng brought their careful eagle to make my life so much better, and I deeply appreciate the
eyes to their pattern tech-edits, and Irene Demchyshyn lovely ladies at BUST magazine, especially my biz partner
brought her No. 2 pencil to get all the copyediting done Laurie Henzel, for giving me the space I needed to write.
well and correctly. For their precision, patience, and good Finally, for all the support they give me in everything
humor in the face of a lengthy and challenging project, I I do, I want to thank my mom, Johanna Stoller, and my
am ever thankful. boo and best friend, Michael Uman.
vi CONTENTS
g
n
i
t
t
i INTRODUCTION ........................................IX CHAPTER 3 .....................................................22
n
K
r STRAND AND DELIVER: TWO-COLOR
a
t PART I: THE STITCHES KNITTING USING THE STRANDED TECHNIQUE
s
r
e CHAPTER 1 .......................................................2
p Finding the Right Yarn Hold * Float Like a Butterfly *
u
S ROWS ARE RED, ROWS ARE BLUE: Yarn Dominance * How to “Catch” Floats: Catching
h
c COLOR KNITTING USING ONE COLOR AT A TIME
t Techniques for Different Hand Holds * Let’s Talk About
i
B
Stripes? Cripes! * Making Clean Color Changes in Steeks, Baby * Different Steeks for Different Freaks *
n
’
h Ribbing * The Underappreciated Slip Stitch * Color by Picking Up Stitches on Steeked Projects
c
t Numbers * Slip-Stitching in the Round * Two-Color
i
t
S Tubular Knitting * Double Knitting CHAPTER 4 .....................................................42
CABLES AND BITS: ADDING TEXTURE IN YOUR
CHAPTER 2 .....................................................11 KNITTING WITH CABLES, TWISTED STITCHES,
KNIT, IF YOU WILL, A PICTURE: BOBBLES, AND MORE
CREATING IMAGES WITH INTARSIA
Look Ma! No Needle! * Cable Guide * Traveling Stitches *
The Rules of the Game * The Right Yarn for the Job * 2-Stitch Crosses and Twists *
Yarn Lengths in Intarsia * Making a Figure Eight Yarn Bavarian Twisted Switch * Fake
Bobbin * Adding a New Color Yarn * Linking Your Yarns It Till You Make It * How to Fix
Together * Tight-Knit Edges * Combining Intarsia and Miscrossed Cables * The Color
Stranded Knitting * Crocheting Vertical Color Columns Cable * Adjusting Your Fabric
* Nip/Tuck Finishing * for Cables * Bobble Heads
Intarsia in the Round
Love Me or Leaf Me Bag,
see page 250.
CHAPTER 5 .....................................................55
LACE: THE FINAL FRONTIER
Selecting Your Materials * The Lace Knitter’s Tool Kit:
Yarn Overs and Decreases * Reading Lace Charts * The
Hole Story of Creating Lace * Lace Bandages: Preventing
and Dealing With Mistakes * Who You Calling a Faggot?
* Shaping in Lace Knitting * Cast-Ons and Bind-Offs for
Lace * Blocking Lace * Know Your Nupps
The Life Aquatic, see page 202.
CHAPTER 6 .....................................................74 vii
KNIT BLING BLING: ADDING A LITTLE
C
o
SUMPIN’ SUMPIN’ WITH BEADS AND EMBROIDERY n
t
Tiger Lily Stuffed Animal, e
Beads on a Wire * Beading Between the Lines * The Bead n
see page 345. t
s
Goes On * All-Over “Bead Knitting” * By Hook or By
Crook * Embroidery on Knitting * Stitching Like a
Big Girl
CHAPTER 7 .....................................................87 CHAPTER 9 ...................................................126
STITCH WITCHERY: A USEFUL ASSORTMENT DROP IT LIKE IT’S HOT: DRAFTING A DROP-
OF STITCHES SHOULDER SWEATER
Start Me Up * Provisional Cast-Ons * Tubular Cast-Ons Filling in the Measurements * Filling in the Stitches *
* Happy Endings * A Smorgasbord of Increases and All About Ease * Writing Out the Pattern * The Magic
Decreases * Kitchener Stitch Formula * Modified Drop Shoulder
Every Which Way * Cords *
Buttonhole Surfers * Short CHAPTER 10 ..................................................135
Rows FROM RAGS TO RICHES: DRAFTING RAGLAN-
SLEEVE AND CIRCULAR YOKE SWEATERS
Filling in the Measurements * Filling in the Stitches *
The Perfect Sleeve Cap Width * Writing Out the Pattern
* Raglan in the Round * Circular Yoke Sweater * Placing
Designs and Futzing with the Formulas
CHAPTER 11 ..................................................148
Sweetheart Sweater, see page 315.
BRINGING OUT THE BIG GUNS:
THE SET-IN SLEEVE SWEATER
PART II: HOW TO CREATE
YOUR OWN PATTERNS Filling in the Measurements * Filling in the Stitches *
CHAPTER 8 ....................................................116 Writing Out the Pattern
DIY: DESIGN IT YOURSELF:
CHAPTER 12 ..................................................158
SKETCHING, SWATCHING, MEASURING, AND
DRAFTING DETAILS, DETAILS:
NECKLINES, CARDIGAN BANDS,
Dream a Little Dream * Sketch and Kvetch * Swatch
AND ESTIMATING YARN AMOUNTS
Watch * Pattern Drafting * Measure Twice, Knit Once:
Gauge * Measuring Up: Taking Body Measurements for Ring Around the Collar * Designing a Cardigan *
Pattern Drafting * Knitting by the Numbers I’m With the Band * How Much Yarn? You Do the Math *
One, Two, Pick up Stitch
ABBREVIATIONS ............................................164
viii PART III: THE PATTERNS CABLES, BOBBLES, AND
COLOR BASICS AND STITCH WITCHERY TRAVELING STITCHES
g
n
i Dress to Impress Baby Dress ..............................166 Sea and Surf Sweater ........................................234
t
t
i Dutch Touch Skirt ...........................................171 Colorful Cable Hat ..........................................239
n
K
Baby Corn Dress .............................................174 Gretel Tam ....................................................242
r
a
t Tulip Top ......................................................178 Dog-O-Matic Doggie Sweater .............................246
s
r
e Rococo Shawl .................................................182 Love Me or Leaf Me Bag ....................................250
p
u Tiptoes Socks .................................................186 Little Red Riding Hoodie ...................................255
S

ch Lattice Top ....................................................259
t
Bi INTARSIA AND STRANDED Fertility Blanket ..............................................265

n
’ KNITTING Saxon the City Stockings ...................................268

h
tc Squirrelly Mittens............................................190 Laced-Up Socks ..............................................274
i
t
S Hip Hop Blanket .............................................193
LACE
Steeks and Stones Cardigan................................196
The Life Aquatic Sweater ...................................202 Frilly Filly Scarf ..............................................278
Skull Isle Socks ...............................................207 No Plastic Please Mesh Tote ...............................281
Button It! Kid’s Sweater ....................................210 Crush Shrug ..................................................284
Lotus Bag ......................................................216 The Empire Strikes Back Dress ...........................293
Sheepy Time Kid’s Sweater.................................220 Nip/Tuck Sweater ............................................297
Bookish Cardigan ............................................224 English Mesh Lace Skirt ....................................304
In Bloom Bag .................................................229 Leafy Lace Cardigan .........................................309
Sweetheart Sweater ..........................................315
Haiku Sweater ................................................318
Flirty Knee-highs ............................................325
BEADS AND EMBROIDERY
Beatrice Gloves ...............................................328
Coco Cardigan ...............................................332
Sparkle Sweater...............................................337
Moonshine Wristlets ........................................341
Tiger Lily Stuffed Animal ..................................345
INDEX ..........................................................349
CREDITS .......................................................356
Little Red
Riding Hoodie,
see page 254.
introduction ix
I
n
t
r
In 1999, when I first got back into knitting, the world was started up their own Stitch ’n Bitch gatherings. The next o
d
a different place. In Manhattan, where I lived at the time, winter, our group picked up steam, and by 2001, we had to u
c
t
there were only two knitting stores that I knew of. When move to a larger café. The cat had been let out of the knit- io
n
I took my knitting out in public, people would stare at ting bag, and there was no stuffing it back in.
me with the kind of curiosity usually reserved for side- All around us, a knitting trend was beginning to take
show performers. And although all the older women on shape, as people were drawn to the craft for a variety of
my mom’s side of the family knit, I was aware of only two reasons. Eager to opt out of what they perceived to be a
women in my age group who knew how to wield the nee- global corporate culture that had little regard for the peo-
dles. Desperate to learn as much about the craft as I could, ple making the products they produced and even less for
I invited them, along with anyone else I could find who the environmental impact those products had, more and
wanted to learn to knit, to come to a café in New York more folks were getting interested in making things them-
City’s East Village every Wednesday evening to stitch and, selves. At the same time, a new generation of feminists
you know, bitch. were reclaiming women’s traditional crafts. Rumors were
That early Stitch ’n Bitch group was but one outlet for even circulating that certain celebrities had taken up knit-
my knitting evangelism. As the editor in chief of BUST, the ting. And it certainly didn’t hurt that much of the fashion
magazine for young women that I’d started in 1993 with being paraded down the runways that season consisted of
a few friends, I had the opportunity to publish knitting simple, hand-knit sweaters and scarves.
patterns (including one for a knit bikini), recommend my About that time, an editor at Workman Publishing
favorite knitting magazines, and, of course, write about who’d been following my knitting writing in BUST inquired
my Stitch ’n Bitch group and invite any of BUST’s read- whether I might be interested in writing a knitting book.
ers to join us. And it wasn’t just BUST that gave that early My answer, of course, was yes—by that point I had taught
group coverage. The idea that young women were—of all so many people to knit, I felt that I had mastered what they
things—getting into knitting was deemed newsworthy felt were the biggest challenges. I also knew that there was
enough that we were visited by reporters from Fox News a growing number of new knitters—both in my own Stitch
and The Early Show. ’n Bitch group and the ones I had become familiar with
Nevertheless, it wasn’t easy keeping that first Stitch via a newfangled Internet phenomenon called “knitting
’n Bitch group from unraveling. At the beginning, eager blogs”—who were designing their own knitting patterns
learners would show up with their yarn and their needles, that were cuter and more youthful than anything com-
the enthusiasm in their eyes slowly draining away as they mercially available at the time. I thought that if I wrote up
struggled to make clumsy rows of knit stitches. A few stuck the clearest instructions I could muster, explaining every-
it out through making a garter stitch scarf, never to knit thing that I had struggled with when I was first starting,
again. Fewer still continued showing up regularly. That and asked my knitting friends and blogging contacts if they
summer, especially, saw our numbers drop, from about 15 had any patterns they wanted to contribute, I could put
knitters down to only 3 and sometimes as few as 2 mem- together a book that would not only teach anyone to learn
bers gathering to knit together. Still, we kept meeting, and to knit, but also provide new knitters with the kinds of
in Los Angeles and Chicago, women who learned about us projects they were looking to make. I had originally called