St Petersburg: Shadows of the Past

497 Pages·2014·24.98 MB·English

by  Catriona Kelly

ST PETERSBURG

ST PETERSBURG

SHADOWS OF THE PAST
Catriona Kelly
YALE UNIVERSITY PRESS
NEW HAVEN AND LONDON
Copyright © 2014 Catriona Kelly
The right of Catriona Kelly to be identified as author of this work has been asserted
by her in accordance with the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act 1988.
All rights reserved. This book may not be reproduced in whole or in part, in any form
(beyond that copying permitted by Sections 107 and 108 of the U.S. Copyright Law and
except by reviewers for the public press) without written permission from the publishers.
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Set in Minion Pro by IDSUK (DataConnection) Ltd
Printed in Great Britain by TJ International Ltd, Padstow, Cornwall
Library of Congress Cataloging- in- Publication Data
Kelly, Catriona, author.
St Petersburg: shadows of the past / Catriona Kelly.
pages: illustrations, maps ; cm
Includes bibliographical references and index.
ISBN 978- 0- 300- 16918- 8 (alk. paper)
1. Saint Petersburg (Russia)—Description and travel. 2. Saint
Petersburg (Russia)—History. I. Title.
DK552.K45 2013
947´.21—dc23
2013018605
A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
FOR MY FRIENDS FROM ST PETERSBURG

Contents
List of Illustrations ix
Preface and Acknowledgements xiii
Introduction: City Panorama 1
1 Moscow Station and Palace Bridge 23
2 Making a Home on the Neva 63
3 ‘The Hermitage and My Own Front Door’: City Spaces 93
4 Initiation into the Working Class 129
5 Eliseev and Aprashka 170
6 Theatre Street 209
7 From Nord to Saigon 251
8 The Twenty- Seventh Kilometre 279
9 The Last Journey 312
10 Afterword 332
Abbreviations and Conventions 338
Notes 341
Glossary and List of Major Place Names 428
Sources and their Uses 431
Select Bibliography 435
Index 453

List of Illustrations
Unless otherwise stated, all images are the author’s own.
Plates
I Decorative anchor in the entrance to the Admiralty, 2012.
II Tram Museum, 2010.
III Flyover for trams, Nevsky district, 2011.
IV Factory yard, Vyborg Side, 2010.
V Archway, New Holland, October 2011.
VI ‘Leningrad Selection’ patisseries, 2004.
VII Eliseev Stores after reopening, 2012.
VIII ‘Leningrad’ sprats on a Lomonosov Factory plate, 2011.
IX Fruit kiosk, ul. Chaikovskogo, 2010.
X Apraksin dvor, 2012.
XI Fans celebrate Zenit scoring a goal, 2012.
XII Perambulating on Griboedov Canal, 2012.
XIII Pansionat garden in Repino, 2005.
XIV A haul of freshly- gathered mushrooms, 2008.
XV Wooden church in Soginitsy, Podporozh’e district, 2012.
XVI On the Tikhvinka River, 2012.
XVII Piskaryovka Cemetery, 2011.
Figures
0.1 Monument to Alexander III, 2011.
0.2 Poster of Alexander Blok, 1980.
0.3 ‘Close the Door After You Leave!’, sign on the door of the Tram Museum, 2010.
0.4 ‘The Territory of Your Rights’ advertisement.
0.5 ‘The Putsch Will Not Succeed!’, Smena, 20 August 1991.
0.6 The author in the Kazan’ Cemetery, Tsarskoe Selo, 1985. Photograph by
Al’bin Konechnyi.
1.1 The approach to Leningrad by sea, 1990.
1.2 Tall ships on the Neva, 1996. Photograph by Ian Thompson.
1.3 Leningrad airport in the late 1960s. Leningrad: Fotoal’bom, 1964.
1.4 Main staircase of the Vitebsk Station, 2011.