Sri Lanka 13e 2015

339 Pages·2014·16.1 MB·English

by  Lonely Planet

P
D
F
Sri Lanka
PDF ebook
Edition 13th Edition
Release Date Jan 2015
Pages 336
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4 easy-to-use How to Use This Book
sections
Look for these symbols to quickly identify listings:
1 4
Sights Sleeping
1
r 5
Beaches Eating
2 6
PLAN YOUR TRIP Activities Drinking
C 3
Courses Entertainment
Your planning tool kit
T 7
Photos & suggestions to help Tours Shopping
you create the perfect trip.
z Festivals 8 Information
& Events & Transport
All reviews are ordered in our authors’ preference,
starting with their most preferred option. Additionally:
2 Sights are arranged in the geographic order that we
suggest you visit them and, within this order, by author
preference.
ON THE ROAD Eating and Sleeping reviews are ordered by price
range (budget, midrange, top end) and, within these
Your complete guide
ranges, by author preference.
Expert reviews, easy-to-use
maps & insider tips.
These symbols and abbreviations give vital
information for each listing:
Must-visit recommendation
Sustainable or green recommendation
3
No payment required
% Telephone number f Ferry
UNDERSTAND h Opening hours j Tram
p Parking d Train
Get more from your trip n Nonsmoking a pt apartments
Learn about the big picture, to a Air-conditioning d double rooms
make sense of what you see. i Internet access d m dorm beds
W Wi-fi access q quad rooms
s Swimming pool r rooms
v Vegetarian selection s single rooms
E English-language menu ste suites
4
c Family-friendly tr triple rooms
# Pet-friendly tw twin rooms
g Bus
SURVIVAL GUIDE
Your at-a-glance reference For symbols used on maps, see the Map Legend.
Vital practical information
for a smooth trip.
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Sri Lanka
Jaffna &
the North
p256
The Ancient
The Cities
West p193
p84
The East
p229
Colombo#_ The Hill
p56 Country
p142
The South
p103
THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY
Ryan Ver Berkmoes,
Stuart Butler, Iain Stewart
P LAN
ON THE ROAD
YOUR TRIP
Welcome to Sri Lanka . . . 4 COLOMBO . . . . . . . . . 56 Dondra . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .128
Sri Lanka Map . . . . . . . . . . .6 History . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .58 Talalla . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .128
Sri Lanka’s Top 20 . . . . . . .8 Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .58 Dikwella . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .129
Need to Know . . . . . . . . . .18 Activities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .69 Goyambokka . . . . . . . . . . .129
First Time Sri Lanka . . . 20 Tours . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .70 Tangalla
& Around . . . . . . . . . . . . . .130
What’s New . . . . . . . . . . . 22 Festivals & Events . . . . . . .70
Bundala
If You Like . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 Sleeping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .71 National Park . . . . . . . . . .134
Month by Month . . . . . . . 26 Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .75 Tissamaharama . . . . . . . .134
Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . 29 Drinking & Nightlife . . . . . .78 Around
Eat & Drink Like a Local . 34 Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . . 79 Tissamaharama . . . . . . . .137
Beaches & Activities . . . 39 Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .80 Yala National Park . . . . . .138
National Parks & Safaris 46 Kataragama . . . . . . . . . . . .140
Travel with Children . . . . .51 THE WEST . . . . . . . . .84
Regions at a Glance . . . . 53 THE HILL
North of Colombo . . . . .86
COUNTRY . . . . . . . . 142
Colombo to Negombo . . . .86
Colombo to Kandy . . . . . .144
Negombo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .86
SARANGA DEVA DE ALWIS /GETTY IMAGES © ANKWSA&arlo eiuIollgunpptuohdtainthmgutidt yaroub aumNf o wN &ea Ctaag, o oD toB . iluKmo .oetan .nmcb .latpho .obli . .ttPBoai . .ay a . . .ar y . .k . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .999999535111 EKNKAA(KSadaariutorsnnauwiut mddlP agnoyyra’adf sa .dt l Ka o .KPaE . . a)eal . .inan y . . .dkad . . .y y . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .111111466566468351
Hikkaduwa & Around . . . . .98
Nuwara Eliya . . . . . . . . . . .166
MALABAR PIED HORNBILL, Around Nuwara Eliya . . . . .171
YALA NATIONAL PARK P138 THE SOUTH . . . . . . . 103
Horton Plains National
Galle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .104 Park & World’s End . . . . .173
ERIC L. W UArnoauwnadt uGnaall e . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 111155 HBealpihuutal lOey .a . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .117755
HEATER /GETTY IMAGES © UKAMohnidgaaignwgagaalamtamu an .a . .a . . &t . .o . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .112201 BEABlraaloandudu .nal .ldar .a . .Ew . .lle . .al . .a . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .111188774985
Weligama . . . . . . . . . . . . . .123
Koslanda . . . . . . . . . . . . . .186
Mirissa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .123
Wellawaya . . . . . . . . . . . . .186
Matara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .126
Embilipitiya . . . . . . . . . . . .187
FRESCOES,
SIGIRIYA P200
Contents
UNDERSTAND
Sri Lanka Today . . . . . . 278
DALLAS STRIBLEY /GETTY IMAGES © HPESIsnerissiovu tLipoeralosrenyn . k om . .af . . enS . .n . .Trti . .ea . .aLl . .a . . .n . . .k . . .a . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .322208990062
PETTAH MARKETS P60,
COLOMBO
Uda Walawe THE EAST . . . . . . . . .229
National Park . . . . . . . . . .188 SURVIVAL
Monaragala . . . . . . . . . . . .231
Sinharaja Forest GUIDE
Reserve . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .189 Around Monaragala . . . . .231
Arugam Bay . . . . . . . . . . . .232
Directory A–Z . . . . . . . .304
THE ANCIENT North of
Arugam Bay . . . . . . . . . . . .237 Transport . . . . . . . . . . . . .312
CITIES . . . . . . . . . . . 193
South of Language . . . . . . . . . . . . .318
Matale . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .195 Arugam Bay . . . . . . . . . . . .239
Nalanda Gedige . . . . . . . .197 Ampara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .240 Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 327
Dambulla . . . . . . . . . . . . . .197 Around Ampara . . . . . . . .241 Map Legend . . . . . . . . . .335
Sigiriya . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .200 Batticaloa . . . . . . . . . . . . .242
Habarana . . . . . . . . . . . . . .204 Around Batticaloa . . . . . .245
Polonnaruwa . . . . . . . . . . .206 Kalkudah &
Giritale . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .212 Passekudah Beaches . . . .245
Mandalagiri Vihara . . . . . .213 Trincomalee . . . . . . . . . . . .247 SPECIAL
Minneriya & Kaudulla Uppuveli & Nilaveli . . . . . .251 FEATURES
National Parks . . . . . . . . .213
Ritigala Ruins . . . . . . . . . .214 JAFFNA & ELiakte & a DLroicnakl . . . . . . . . . 34
Anuradhapura . . . . . . . . . .215 THE NORTH . . . . . . .256
Beaches
Mihintale . . . . . . . . . . . . . .223 Vavuniya . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .258 & Activities . . . . . . . . . 39
Yapahuwa . . . . . . . . . . . . . .226 Mannar Island National Parks
Panduwasnuwara . . . . . . .227 & Around . . . . . . . . . . . . . .260 & Safaris . . . . . . . . . . .46
Ridi Vihara . . . . . . . . . . . . .227 Jaffna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .262 People of
Sri Lanka . . . . . . . . . .296
Kurunegala . . . . . . . . . . . .228 Jaffna Peninsula . . . . . . . .271
Sri Lankan
Jaffna’s Islands . . . . . . . . .274 Tea . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 300
4
Welcome to
Sri Lanka
Endless beaches, timeless ruins,
welcoming people, oodles of elephants,
rolling surf, cheap prices, fun trains,
famous tea and flavourful food
describe Sri Lanka.
The Undiscovered Country Rainforests & Beaches
You might say Sri Lanka has been hiding in When you’re ready to escape the tropical
plain sight. Countless numbers of travellers climate of the coast and lowlands, head for
have passed overhead on their way to some- the hills, with their temperate, achingly
place else, and years of war and challenges, green charms. Verdant tea plantations and
such as tsunamis, have kept Sri Lanka off rainforested peaks beckon walkers, hikers
many itineraries. and those who just want to see it during a
But now Sri Lanka is finding its way spectacular train ride.
onto the itineraries of ever more travel- And then there are the beaches. Daz-
lers. Several years since the war ended, the zlingly white and often untrod, they ring
country is moving forward quickly, even the island so that no matter where you go,
as questions about the hostilities continue you’ll be near a sandy gem. Should you beat
to spark debate. Lying between the more the inevitable languor, you can surf and
trodden parts of India and Southeast Asia, dive world-class sites without world-class
Sri Lanka’s myriad appeals are undeniably crowds.
alluring.
It’s So Easy
So Much in So Little
Distances are short: see the sacred home of
Few places have as many Unesco World the world’s oldest living tree in the morning
Heritage Sites – eight – packed into such a in Anuradhapura, and stand awestruck by
small area. Sri Lanka’s 2000-plus years of the sight of hundreds of elephants gather-
culture can be discovered at ancient sites, ing in the afternoon at Minneriya. Discover
where legendary temples boast beautiful a favourite beach, meditate in a 2000-year-
details. old temple, exchange smiles while stroll-
Across the island, that thing that goes ing a mellow village, marvel at birds and
bump in the night might be an elephant wildflowers, try to keep count of the little
heading to a favourite waterhole. Safari dishes that come with your rice and curry.
tours of Sri Lanka’s pleasantly relaxed Stroll past colonial gems in Colombo, then
national parks encounter leopards, water hit some epic surf. Sri Lanka is spectacular,
buffaloes, all manner of birds and a passel affordable and still often uncrowded. Now
of primates. is the best time to discover it.
5
IDRIS AHM
ED / GETTY IM
AGES ©
Why I Love Sri Lanka
By Ryan Ver Berkmoes
My fascination with Sri Lanka began when I read Paul Theroux’s The Great
Railway Bazaar as a child. His wonderment at the island’s endless contradictions stayed with
me. In 2004 I was in the west and south in the weeks after the tsunami. I was struck by the
stories of the survivors and deeply moved by their efforts to rebuild. In the years since I have
been endlessly amazed by the Sri Lankans’ ability to overcome disaster, war and myriad
other challenges as they work tirelessly to make their country match its potential, while
remaining some of the most charming people on the planet.
For more about our authors, see page 336.
Above: Statue of Buddha, Maligawila (p232)
50 km30 miles
E
0'
0
2º
00 8 TION 2100m 1500m 900m 450m 0 aruwaold buildingsnts (p206)
81º30'E ELEVA PolonnaThousand-year-and monume
e
B A Y O FB E N G A L Nilaveli Trincomale Mutur uwa
ri Lanka80º30'E 81º00'E 80º00'E 79º30'E Point PedroPalk StraitJaffnaKaraitivuHindu temples and fruit treesJaffna(p262) NainativuJaffnaLagoonNeduntivu0'N Pooneryn KilinochchiPalk Bay RameswaramMullaittivu N D I AMankulamMannarIslandTalaimannar0'N Northern Province Gulf of MannarVavuniyaaAnuradhapuraAmazing cultural and religious Uppuveliheritage (p215) Medawachchiya0'N North Central Province AnuradhapuraMihintaleKaudullaNational ParkKalpitiya MinneriyaNationalParkHabaranaPuttalam0'N Polonnar
S 9º3 I 9º0 8º3 8º0
d
n
E
EasternProvinceBatticaloa Maha Oya Ampara SenanayakeAkkaraipattuSamudraHorton Plains & World’s Wild and windsweptmoorlands (p173) PottuvilMonaragalaArugam BayMaligawilaPanamawayaArugam BayProvinceSurfing paradiseOkandaof Uva(p232)KumanaNational Park Kataragama Yala NationalParkmaUda Walawe National ParkKirindaBuffalo, crocodiles andelephants (p188) Bundala National ParkOne of Sri Lanka's finestbirding destinations (p134)
SigiriyaSigiriyaA stunning rockDambullasurrounded by gardens (p200)NorthWesternProvincePadeniyaI N D I A NCentral ProvinceO C E A N7º30'N KnucklesKurunegalaRangeMatale(1863m) PolgahawelaKandyKandyThe cultural capitalof the island (p144)NegomboProvince ofSabaragamuwaJa-ElaGampahaKitulgalaKarawanella7º00'N BadullaNuwara EliyaAvissawellaCOLOMBOAdam's PeakHorton Plains(Sri Pada)EllaNational ParkMt Lavinia(2243m)Bandarawela HaputaleColomboWesternWorld'sWellaBelihul OyaColonial charms andEndProvinceRatnapurafascinating shopping (p56)Pelmadulla Uda Walawe6º30'N SinharajaNational ParkForestAdam's PeakReserveAluthgamaA beautiful and historic walkBentotaInduruwa(p163)DeniyayaEmbilipitiya TissamaharaSouthernBundalaProvinceGalle FortNational ParkUnmissably historic and Hikkaduwabeguiling (p105)AkuressaGalle6º00'N TangallaUnawatunaMirissaMataraWeligamaSee blue whalesMirissaon a boat excursion (p123)
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
8
Sri Lanka’s
Top

20
Stunning Beaches Travelling by Train
1 There are long, golden-specked ones, 2 Sometimes there’s no way to get a
there are dainty ones with soft white seat on the slow but oh-so-popular
sand, there are wind- and wave-battered train to Ella (p179), but with a prime
ones, and ones without a footstep for standing-room-only spot looking out at a
miles. Some have a slowly, slowly vibe and rolling carpet of tea, who cares? Outside,
some have a lively party mood, but which- the colourful silk saris of Tamil tea pick-
ever you choose, the beaches of Sri Lanka ers stand out in the sea of green; inside,
(p39) really are every bit as gorgeous you may get a shy welcome via a smile. At
as you’ve heard. And we guarantee that stations, vendors hustle treats, including
after you’ve returned home, every time some amazing corn and chilli fritters sold
you sit in rush-hour traffic on a wet and wrapped in somebody’s old homework
cold Monday morning, an image of palm paper. Munching one of these while the
trees and azure Sri Lankan waters will scenery creaks past? Sublime.
float into your mind! Tangalla beach (p131)