Table Of Content

EYEWITNESS TRAVEL SRI LANK A 550 25 12 ussellawa CENT A5 LMAABCOKOWKOELOLDIES mboda TEA ESTATE q photographs NUWELAIYRAA9Ó 0PTEEDAdetailed maps illustrations EYEWITNESS TRAVEL SRI LANKA EYEWITNESS TRAVEL SRI LANKA Managing Editor MadhuMadhavi Singh Senior Editorial Manager Savitha Kumar Editorial Manager Sheeba Bhatnagar Senior Manager Design and Cartography Priyanka Thakur Project Editor Shreya Sarkar Editor Vatsala Srivastava Project Designer Namrata Adhwaryu Cartography Manager Suresh Kumar Senior Cartographer Subhashree Bharti Senior DTP Designer Azeem Siddiqui Senior Picture Research Manager Taiyaba Khatoon Assistant Picture Researcher Ashwin Adimari Picturesque view of the palm-fringed Mirissa Beach Photographer Idris Ahmed Contents Illustrators Chingtham Chinglemba, Sanjeev Kumar, Arun Pottirayil How to Use this Guide 6 Printed and bound by Leo Paper Products Ltd, China First American Edition, 2014 Introducing 14 15 16 17 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Sri Lanka Published in the United States by Dorling Kindersley Limited Discovering Sri Lanka 10 80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL, UK Copyright © 2014 Dorling Kindersley Limited, London Putting Sri Lanka on A Penguin Random House Company the Map 16 All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in A Portrait of Sri Lanka 18 a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise without the prior written permission of the copyright owner. Sri Lanka Through the Year 40 A Cataloging in publication record is available from the Library of Congress. ISSN 1542-1554 The History of ISBN 978 0 7566 9851 5 Sri Lanka 44 Floors are referred to throughout in accordance with European usage; ie the “first floor” is the floor above ground level. The information in this DK Eyewitness Travel Guide is checked regularly. Every effort has been made to ensure that this book is as up-to-date as possible at the time of going to press. Some details, however, such as telephone numbers, opening hours, prices, gallery hanging arrangements and travel information are liable to change. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for any consequences arising from the use of this book, nor for any material on third party websites, and cannot guarantee that any website address in this book will be a suitable source of travel information. We value the views and suggestions of our readers very highly. Please write to: Publisher, DK Eyewitness Travel Guides, Dorling Kindersley, 80 Strand, London, WC2R 0RL, UK, or email: [email protected]. Elephants bathing in the Ma Oya river, Front cover main image: Expansive tea plantations in Nuwara Eliya, the Hill Country Pinnawela Elephant Orphanage Brightly painted fishing boats on a beach near Ambalangoda The Cultural Triangle 154 The East 184 Jaffna and the North 200 Travelers’ Needs Where to Stay 212 Where to Eat and Drink 222 Seated Buddha images around the dagoba Shopping in Sri Lanka 234 in Cave II, Dambulla Cave Temples Entertainment in Outdoor Activities and Sri Lanka Area Sri Lanka 240 Special Interests 244 by Area Survival Guide Sri Lanka At a Glance 58 Practical Information 252 Colombo 60 Travel Information 264 The West Coast 88 General Index 270 The South 104 Acknowledgments 283 Kandy and the Hill Country 130 Dancers performing in the procession during Phrase Book 285 Esala Perahera, Kandy The Temple of the Tooth, Kandy (cid:3) 6 HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE This Dorling Kindersley Travel Guide helps you is the main sightseeing section, which covers get the most from your visit to Sri Lanka. It pro- all the important sights, with photog raphs, vides detailed practical information and expert maps and illustrations. Information on hotels, recommendations. Introducing Sri Lanka maps restaurants, shops, entertainment and sports the country and its areas, sets them in their is found in Travellers’ Needs. The Survival Guide historical and cultural context and describes has advice on everything from travel to medical events through the year. Sri Lanka Area by Area services, banks and communications. Sri Lanka Area by Area THE EAST (cid:3) 185 The country has been divided THE EAST Each area can be quickly identified by its colour coding. iafnoretroma ss .se Tevhpeeansr eamt seae icvnhe sanigp shteetcrsstei,o eenianscg h Aavaiauwtirrnnsfsheet dsibea atpu orel bie norsaba-sdi unwelt eoettioeandirnfwrwtgu cebc l eahdii encs yi aaoobn tgctlagyhoahas ,e tt eitiewnhm lsmid.en r apAe ief2ndrocl o0thdskrh0vt -a l jode4oousu i nfntvbt ghsagigenuhe lerpgen einte-n avhac rmrfienoiveroa davcisd,selo c,.t ts aorhgTr eudrfhens dcuc e iE oztorr uaetiufuno sdrbiregtnu,so . 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Nra e pb di sHtnsblogtlhaeee.utih oaeietrhTnednst eTwbiihteu e ogs mastatnse e o..car E ak1raav nsut 5 fijet lnot anahrtr,,pee MIDDLE STREET Dutch bell tower of a key area covered in the chapter. 4AcIto nwn Daasttustr rturacecchsttte ioRvdreee i fndCo o1rinml7o 52ne50ida 0o l4C nb.h utuhilrdec isnhigt e, tohfi sa cPhourtr5Dcwbcspcutoeurhagiailnm mitl suAl wittr nesum elafalpgsomrr sSeuyie rl f,y ao anrc ctPto iiirhiAhoonfntimigseyinncstts i asv g oaBn tc lefnhrlClafhiyiincdeltchu lieat y su.1r n hc 9r. h ct hh Cbopcafurl eanLilsn ldsoe tiHrynivldlgoe b’s udt ehos PS eafshE et Lw iDeoopnannsLs dcoAA aeourR rnchtis vo.a iSTadmdhlTes mte .RhB weEoer aEeocrliTfdlaf-i lc es CHURCH STREET QLUEEYNE BNASA N SSTTRREEETETK ey Suggested route tmhie76OwcsDmr iurcnpae t hHirnNecbssAehatnaciGeah o snGempeltatorootldierol,fovoounai fd evirafisnnsngrn ia rneaDc,eoa,it mn,na2ceao unlwg lt0le uMot c linMdcMo0 qhstotth9iacho u esHloua la,r per heoaAbnstielsutl cohneagj bs isestauimduyeiesdihconos mmiuiltceendnnpasol. r sMgw’ peurr ismoee vsuuihssmieeolun lsms w a iensr dhe ovsuatolsureeaddb i.ln e ac afrogrom seur cDhu atcs h Ais sshuogwgnes wteitdh rao duotett efodr rae wd alilnke . For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp217–19 and pp229–31 For map symbols see back flap (cid:3) HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE 7 A feature deals with a topic related to that region or place. 100 (cid:3) SRI LANKA AREA BY AREA THE WEST COAST (cid:3) 101 4 DEieibAtfonnooannuledfll clo tv itottilrhvdirhahyswm iii,eised ntltii e anguhigaRmdtgahreesieo l gtrpilat e ynnilhionois. s fieWr odnsotdt en anardeoidtml nues mthM cthmtiia nanrapeait ibjb rlolpioeea oeesr.arcd dirn d gcei en hhs rg ,t s . hlsuoHsottmtdotooOqRTBimbsTaatybwBtaIoai sBsdathrhhihhotuoevffmnnnhhoaamnvufa oeo epin ueiewaotooeTaeaBtla galwwaev deeetewelueeh tndduanraie,httgLp nevs rdegr dan cnn lxe nf garsaanwespctnsnwalaben.rwepoee isc op e uo m ’gtc gtrohThr9snaermrcdai . re( rdeohshunh snoogeoeteaho oashaT iusctanndav,ntetorvtniirei me ectpngkmunpaonhaftrneisclhpsntniac)d;et oe lee st .s.rsrghuteh t eguech e et– e lhetueev ndet ∑iasa Bbhns chpho rhate di5rrhtilr a ” ida t o6nrhr yvdet.iyoutve hsth7oped wnohseckgr io e.n 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ipiuo wi ichaseiemTmmote eeonensihrr,sernhsenn ewi eaggea mulbs t es g dw tvd T.antorseno tttuH heiUa uehuT r p v ndaanmiiaceytdteolyentrernCenelerhngs oanntn yteiayusyarttatf lrPel dcat,edscsoc ah hd rntoeinsapc tjen ieprls ogaosreyeh hmien paga d snattttnttar iueuyd neaudpmnphhneuh .ir reg u ncrrs acso TnehrteTgreebian.steobiign ip snuahcCaaeanfgfce iereg utohthrinief nttnsie Paeceoteiyesoreocpidknpatud uae s n gsls ohlmbvsitbatd wr ym esem,e dhu gt h1tf istf, atsha e ln owe aeehkoem ein9umtbcesseowrrsrr um,s eckf9 oeedsu gv psomfTEoicMhetrtnafbwhn rier iee3ehir shisotgsi sgarn1nnstthck.tt iooe tmahdota hr .eeaStaleglso p9 ytHigeieaceltar irc.r nasrseyn os nheut uah7leitis–t sessloa d h ign eosgageibL rnmt l ua0 n ciit oa le –l anv na etnn id ilpccsn onsdso neeif tgbiedws.cthe noe ia enr spkKctstshTl,s urtag euvase ae etst soothetcmht e.hort rer sn pnhoohcsNoeh ieelte rogerib goraielrllatin es nv lefp.bTsrrhhs repnod,sge e ,,smereut rtjor ssdii eosi ehBntagein onnoterteproudan bnehh hafe-gkwernta Cr bcdsttteebvf e aldsotrhltiuhabthe d yuasoyti nudcgtytreand ei htms otrale irnotadbrt itgtilewaysatno euooticnsig ao attl ccns Ks rtn teainlmttn c,tlloihantee hahoeetatht, ol yaess shdteaesenndeelt ootststlpsd aoe hgssi dltml sr.bn b sterily s vbiea Feihenho etlge en echyaiette ai nraagi foa eey.lrtem irsan at ec netDle Si ga1acrsaprththrp sag aoteehep0cr soti.o aeelt ov itss et0h ecanr iulhfiops sLnllvp orcf Teiiule too ng ien e acawtttuubtunptgreumhhirrdineg dreoreyltgb certtrahc tk tile r tn olsInoocleytalielettnnall e einag gia iomenucsabtal ,odn s tc agvnaokdCg ukeeu s etnoualycis ,iscl h ohmbsdl y n aio ltrutfatlneponee nhaiuh sinrceupnaemdaei ef eesafwdleRsbdet guc lryaeitucfeye s v oheoueshi oag isg r.nanerno learkacve eelhst eaa fstilaiacv at svolth.snfn uyih wtettreenieinr,dd ioeo d i n oar sm n n. , For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp216–17 and pp228–9 Story boxes explore specific subjects further. 136 (cid:3) SRI LANKA AREA BY AREA KANDY AND THE HILL COUNTRY (cid:3) 137 Temple of the Tooth The Story of the Buddha’s Tooth VISITORS’ CHECKLIST ThBtTwsVbD1keLbeThhiha9uioyuunhmmTrrt eeduttKgielhE n c iasdpiTteni t henoeelebchl ra ehs te mgf moaiw eh naDnKSs ’msnRppesatcrtah o tati uluslbsnD reeaoLj oiraroi ad rn ouaysnwodnmsryicn ttgfi oibcha,caegn ka tenywhstb. igha bn s S.B tpaS’ heh asTehauwudr l toeheTmlueiritll i loi nWyeyat nIbtyhoIho c adicudpr(iesn ktcer oaeitaaaIh.e lks 1 tnrtml(rim,dtrhaem r 6tstooa. c de1a3htoatmrrperh g5 4e esf1uaSo s9ee–awd t6lcrmrioh0 d1iv.ttctRa nhe–eDa6e oisatt 1ngd 8 h aaRycjsra6t6 tletee owd ai so0)Bnnan y uditi4nfnun etoator1a)uhegdldmiv; l7 n r Ml Phdai gto6yrtgpahtehe a,aw5we lle,ttpiteal. dshihi et acTg lnpthia ewese nihagranec e rwoerac le 1 eteallty roadih9amhbicic.gmgs ,e 9e,eAu tt a ni 8th npi n i h l ,neota l e e lf x . SOAoTionorbnlcguio jc tetDttuh hhcMapet eRls ay af eeiilrdnrielxgsigcatltaae. fwtMTtnlehohtadue oeo, srrttff.eheio rt usi hasttrmhe mea e1 np u9tdhes9 eoms8uet obpcmgoole rmns aahdpbno hf ddwlso a tcsohmhare soao ewgfs e - LcdebAfoAmtYinroaerifuoinDg ev opgKhPimumi,hlv adtaerotr tiehn hatnenau Kokdudddetdscai e wnhehy e alTidsi gnaosnroaiitnt ospaudt ig otn io utunHos1oate enhr 5I meePnnsia dn9 ti moR adghtsa2 hmleSI,iheon anafaarl otnmdie dirnct i elpnnL il dbtaaalowaa iahcf 5ul,wnh rarteasc4utet.ak. nsoi s 3awrnIDsa t ,nb a tg;f Babtu ewhcnrot ,Creo weweedDi acne,kuma . shohBa engwTlg emiufpuei h cshihtedmrpdnlh ehbsetrerh d e tei etTisaratnsort em ooh ttdTi n4gw uesau tto aheetyaiShahksspvhe tnve fe.wireeheo eenra ei iAcse n yg ,nsfaLshra ce a i a rsa wbtsrwstahwnto r n oeinaowuiintahuerve rn uk isamceiral nireatdtrecreeds oydr shb . a r oeyfyal. orApf roo ’rees popifaf nx orw aAgBrct priorehuitnalilfsruvfaetdalst lset,iiit sd ntnTh H d fMoodhigiren sfooimae s ntagbm htpasa lh ueKmithir gc a ioIoaRloanttdantul duewathiwdinnlh eaie cyndgsiaetr,,. TOd5fPPn∑oeaparprlalim al e py(c1sc0n. hrt 6ed8Sii o, dTca r1SDteiaia) qolD myell2ug a.via 2pa&nrdal2aarlf aeep Vdo2m,: ih ar(6dK5a my6aiM:ad3y)1ln.aa0 diu.gd .ati stiaymeio.ow u n–nma7 a.pl:l k9fme ae m – Ssitgahrtss itnhdaitc antoe vthiseit ofer asthuoreusld o mr iss. 5 Sri Lanka’s Top Sights RTecfdpoahlehaerser ojpk5ma tmeh0 oTit acg y uudn errssatueaek pwrmrueishnmhr ausg iiM c nnd itshsteuh i dltoecs aheeaf iE edlruRisrn iaimadcegjlaiaade th deaPtirhds eie ner l tiao f oT1ehno 9 Rel oi8dranat8jiehsa .( p, Tst Rthelhaheeeeyle ip wc ta1a na3xdl9il-s ). Tfuhlel psea gaeres .g Hivisetno rtiwc bo uoirld minogrse KEY have an illustrated artwork 12345Gtntsrhcwtdtoeehhhaoloeoaahmieeielgwdout o-eT TR PTellbnbp rsrieu;hthh,a boe ee tooltarmoeeleo reyshgfmfml a.f uh e a eia aMOmTrtDnKlamolhyb rh olncimrkv Paasae nweubtrastienrah ngi au mgmgpl lmhtulabagug rhaeeiKessaan eowmocVe oorctiliBreaeeos n nrafpaiteue.l n inn i atphal, snwdre h S sahlbt1sant d tresacT ’rr9ouliu s a h iokCoscpn9Rhnim nlanaawodu8taerec n gdibujej.s dn eaeaoh traserbueres a petttt,r i egr troio nyrreosiooue oan agsnrsfhtye toeg iehr.heGeas o dema ee nedtmarvnn h e.ci tti, si. sdhI eai eni te is bte nt loyt 00T.ta rmyhneaeidra sdAttr specyuse a tddvhiieaelitdon e ncpn eowd Hwaesade lur tl htsoee d tsh obe3vy0 e BK3rre0aitinigsdnhyt way noa sfk tisnhiggen sK etaodn hdhoyealrden ciknoi nu1g8rtd1. oT5h.me Ttbspo.hahfer ioietdjs Veht sefwtaeuhocd errgt tbiailnohnleheelegdd i as th tt icghs nosaoeeuaesrl kdsc TiMeeeot scistooa a owttnlshhifk g hie.sen aieI latTts ewvt fsahsmih lesw Tofchaaeie nlhrlpoo aei ie gtm nTeprsocahdi otg liavseTa d s odps serod ipeewinkte ebo thdalel coihhilstcs kteohcRhpeets,e ar ,etrrwilt R areeoinoahln tieho ocneewpecslif ipe tdcai Cfcdiluie lgyhts hilowCcrpn r gadiaihoinhassam emati r .galda ktwtwlTssmis beenth g .oaca po egTbeltoy-n.i rthhm srt.e, mf dehtieri rnoso p e eadM o ormias rseonsttee ahoay ao tti c e shhsnrpr srtecee ,r r Sal au d1ouhsyc 9s pr rwteae8ipunn l0eairecdseelsrl.. ssshahiinatteeovd;sew ta arminansd igawls p a.te srhlc les hah lasao eynwooaliutonitogg oni cffaaa tlcl h pi leiat irekss For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp219–20 and pp231–2 The visitors' checklist 134 (cid:3) SRI LANKA AREA BY AREA KANDY AND THE HILL COUNTRY (cid:3) 135 6 TIaisAttpipnmrhniong arl hfaeoddwopnhn avre msot imcnnydpstrioa d aetatoMruiiasiteyelnri r,noa c at sma v lnto splhian is ttmagnur ihdot epeh.be wm en tdspldsonu eeri eancasmnsdc anc d ttettrdiooeceirb aw ods le u.n d s. kitStatrt}P1AHO_KbNELtkStiktacboTapblLaSDanthhhooohhioooivio mareniraepoocu pa nnkmien iaieeitcoul ceeocnentn sapldet ie uwclWgpg vTJmhKiltLhg h ha i tKnorecddnqtu1B ChTdopltK eer’ ahfae sat maaadaeo oi lrnoy9odsiureuooes p/odtc mnlnk nqai,tnrn pAf trociectk rntmenfdsaikahiu1ue tVmoaeaguch n kistuodel’dtiesmarrpets si le e3civhrn astt yet acigahws pgnhm p eoyvkncihtseliab. nett6tehtm :dnk,oei,eee t &ho olei ree n as rleEca –h oeptLrantllu ads gnwf KyunsupeeseteKo a haoot7ren anilswtuad .ns ,haor ertl ro ubsa rochesu ntTfl. (wl.eRkIs u dacnogd ftexh tste ntafraely mVe vRrt aaieothue or ao,.dP ruauhcso nylmihtd wh ei tyfnrjaw saer nsrKestlhso reya,aoioudln.eyreetee itoroty nta aapawtsaurtKTaeeuauu ss e drtx odesuireKiaswaagnhTlbhienrsnn nn sdrsotespinTa , drdiftexa o ;g at eteeeea dd sfngtd a khooKnetrlh1th opivobeo dlonl yao)ithi ashyci flibanot.a8inad e r.f eyrssey Lds t r i erma met nadfdet1nsihlatg aa tehv te rhnsattns ap ,vkhhshf5ewid gee oddl:hdn. eneaeo eoeti ski ePi,i.nterdh Toar eobo ytrl ana dorfnhe tTteat gcliym dei h ow mthteyrt h yrth tlane,cai e r am heaaott e soe neeae i liy r,sor nnaems o r.a f., k t a oeo ft mit v,g. kh s ut eciho ehoesatirva stle s laofsstTtOSVhtdaB fyyb iestrohh tataik nhuafei,oimto arpry ns se Tems eonsdKeamtntdnmgh paoh hh egpt w B nagadmdwrtc-nochoeoeme l u ecenogsethotrdnu asume nhhe Nmdeaef drdtieieees’ o ssstvshneo(dtmdBa xvhde tety o pui o eitErn haih dbtr 1r en bscra lrBN phii ifsol ie st o4n sastotestt PeMateuaalaae shif teet esteilasmntn ( ’hl ptsid cseetegaD rthaethtsh dds che ech stlhdg o.fce ecel asefei Pamoseesieinaeodohi vn a tvitthesDc moid)nsiddlylrianpiio e dnaar nsefDi 1D. etesln e lattmttsTteuepKHergh8egvoseee xhtehn irs) asiadr1tii v nrv optysnS mo eheei ndmlot anaa5a .e t diVls ndrtordtelnfNoonlle.h eaiuiei h esas uidn ycnTo s hkrh eev.,hsPd,dte . h gii onl eaaaEf atciewinaeraeo us aohlr idn saalttiutvngt biiselnhDtheun.ntdtdesaa timey seeg in iyesr ec y ltve ed- iy has, s,s . lt e fKbaEOCOo(ctpotmisfpmtEB9MOoNafTdatadttsencdcDsreiuohhriutuaeaoan srhn.llaolffauyeaeo pa1aoenowceoaorn mrau h reernctv ndgedKtpvbntdittet 5encevnpst sviavgiKAhc hsa shiain ni –uti nghwd e9 uail,coiosab ilreeaehn&B aicttika e n a4di ro,iaadcc r0usreiipaidwltns l txue8m teueaigsoec:o io e spmggnne3hann he–Tst ntrohaTyapa nm sthldsh nsnsut0,lslo asadm1i)euVrmsdoe eidntl fjbi efla ,tewepinbd. faab aa m a ae6aeon di p,Ms nabaiytgl cTlr u–m vmedlsgnTgl i.lhwyensi0h fsithe s dse eghetcd 5ie uaoainbcch hse Nugdn 4oio. dls .ew iasspim yo Tts trid eh ioorcTg yi mss A)tss eshadf hh iu tllnolm ias,KotdooEhh i iaahlehna sel pog. rrmgned t ehteaalednetletauars deIeiu el y eluahrs e–gDcWteps ilu gcdnar etahdie.sna f f crQno ue s onSimmh aawmaloy&ts(iioskme r s ohsi oe idstandtKcetsdtwt nweh sogni-,ustrifddpadh o tseiaee,ratoa ym o prma esae.ottah ejot – cohiah s ruudeauulabh eCm hdsnlnl ustslombp,tMelotinfd i -ptopa semem rawlk.e. Mch eti dsklt sd onM ettsslooud dniiuolrIuoeorohuT uarsyshnepen p.se haf ’maof fsnsa susspi tis n rofTema u ew ibs.py SllmlH e.aa oKgrcecv.ersiala P dsawth srroee ee Au slcarneutoTaedhdcaeouadin yeeal hudesrnucreseu Saroirmcshmmn em gsosl dstyu.uis tuatv oi tacdmn ulye’hmpe,Otn ad hae ohopd in ecmcoep aofad-ua m e ln uy epeto pe,h-deen a n l e o - Iedm e dnl. i dg den xn rApoamS123456EB7TwrCetSocsroWeeehcp eporhrlbnlldimaiaaipwaueheomgl i upoj TslAKDKMcLs-,eiBMnllo prneanlprsih fshetaaarcedcevuleli udemhicrantnnot dincuteaavadtcstdy rshu setdddaidfoiaksfis tp eislih on adeBrya ohn ,llyyta mu eemb lf ee.eatstthe aw hb uarg,b&m seLNeaesuo . 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EYEWITNESS TRAVEL SRI LANK A 550 25 12 ussellawa CENT A5 LMAABCOKOWKOELOLDIES mboda TEA ESTATE q photographs NUWELAIYRAA9Ó 0PTEEDAdetailed maps illustrations EYEWITNESS TRAVEL SRI LANKA EYEWITNESS TRAVEL SRI LANKA Managing Editor MadhuMadhavi Singh Senior Editorial Manager Savitha Kumar Editorial Manager Sheeba Bhatnagar Senior Manager Design and Cartography Priyanka Thakur Project Editor Shreya Sarkar Editor Vatsala Srivastava Project Designer Namrata Adhwaryu Cartography Manager Suresh Kumar Senior Cartographer Subhashree Bharti Senior DTP Designer Azeem Siddiqui Senior Picture Research Manager Taiyaba Khatoon Assistant Picture Researcher Ashwin Adimari Picturesque view of the palm-fringed Mirissa Beach Photographer Idris Ahmed Contents Illustrators Chingtham Chinglemba, Sanjeev Kumar, Arun Pottirayil How to Use this Guide 6 Printed and bound by Leo Paper Products Ltd, China First American Edition, 2014 Introducing 14 15 16 17 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Sri Lanka Published in the United States by Dorling Kindersley Limited Discovering Sri Lanka 10 80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL, UK Copyright © 2014 Dorling Kindersley Limited, London Putting Sri Lanka on A Penguin Random House Company the Map 16 All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in A Portrait of Sri Lanka 18 a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise without the prior written permission of the copyright owner. Sri Lanka Through the Year 40 A Cataloging in publication record is available from the Library of Congress. ISSN 1542-1554 The History of ISBN 978 0 7566 9851 5 Sri Lanka 44 Floors are referred to throughout in accordance with European usage; ie the “first floor” is the floor above ground level. The information in this DK Eyewitness Travel Guide is checked regularly. Every effort has been made to ensure that this book is as up-to-date as possible at the time of going to press. Some details, however, such as telephone numbers, opening hours, prices, gallery hanging arrangements and travel information are liable to change. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for any consequences arising from the use of this book, nor for any material on third party websites, and cannot guarantee that any website address in this book will be a suitable source of travel information. We value the views and suggestions of our readers very highly. Please write to: Publisher, DK Eyewitness Travel Guides, Dorling Kindersley, 80 Strand, London, WC2R 0RL, UK, or email: [email protected]. Elephants bathing in the Ma Oya river, Front cover main image: Expansive tea plantations in Nuwara Eliya, the Hill Country Pinnawela Elephant Orphanage Brightly painted fishing boats on a beach near Ambalangoda The Cultural Triangle 154 The East 184 Jaffna and the North 200 Travelers’ Needs Where to Stay 212 Where to Eat and Drink 222 Seated Buddha images around the dagoba Shopping in Sri Lanka 234 in Cave II, Dambulla Cave Temples Entertainment in Outdoor Activities and Sri Lanka Area Sri Lanka 240 Special Interests 244 by Area Survival Guide Sri Lanka At a Glance 58 Practical Information 252 Colombo 60 Travel Information 264 The West Coast 88 General Index 270 The South 104 Acknowledgments 283 Kandy and the Hill Country 130 Dancers performing in the procession during Phrase Book 285 Esala Perahera, Kandy The Temple of the Tooth, Kandy (cid:3) 6 HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE This Dorling Kindersley Travel Guide helps you is the main sightseeing section, which covers get the most from your visit to Sri Lanka. It pro- all the important sights, with photog raphs, vides detailed practical information and expert maps and illustrations. Information on hotels, recommendations. Introducing Sri Lanka maps restaurants, shops, entertainment and sports the country and its areas, sets them in their is found in Travellers’ Needs. The Survival Guide historical and cultural context and describes has advice on everything from travel to medical events through the year. Sri Lanka Area by Area services, banks and communications. Sri Lanka Area by Area THE EAST (cid:3) 185 The country has been divided THE EAST Each area can be quickly identified by its colour coding. iafnoretroma ss .se Tevhpeeansr eamt seae icvnhe sanigp shteetcrsstei,o eenianscg h Aavaiauwtirrnnsfsheet dsibea atpu orel bie norsaba-sdi unwelt eoettioeandirnfwrwtgu cebc l eahdii encs yi aaoobn tgctlagyhoahas ,e tt eitiewnhm lsmid.en r apAe ief2ndrocl o0thdskrh0vt -a l jode4oousu i nfntvbt ghsagigenuhe lerpgen einte-n avhac rmrfienoiveroa davcisd,selo c,.t ts aorhgTr eudrfhens dcuc e iE oztorr uaetiufuno sdrbiregtnu,so . 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Nra e pb di sHtnsblogtlhaeee.utih oaeietrhTnednst eTwbiihteu e ogs mastatnse e o..car E ak1raav nsut 5 fijet lnot anahrtr,,pee MIDDLE STREET Dutch bell tower of a key area covered in the chapter. 4AcIto nwn Daasttustr rturacecchsttte ioRvdreee i fndCo o1rinml7o 52ne50ida 0o l4C nb.h utuhilrdec isnhigt e, tohfi sa cPhourtr5Dcwbcspcutoeurhagiailnm mitl suAl wittr nesum elafalpgsomrr sSeuyie rl f,y ao anrc ctPto iiirhiAhoonfntimigseyinncstts i asv g oaBn tc lefnhrlClafhiyiincdeltchu lieat y su.1r n hc 9r. h ct hh Cbopcafurl eanLilsn ldsoe tiHrynivldlgoe b’s udt ehos PS eafshE et Lw iDeoopnannsLs dcoAA aeourR rnchtis vo.a iSTadmdhlTes mte .RhB weEoer aEeocrliTfdlaf-i lc es CHURCH STREET QLUEEYNE BNASA N SSTTRREEETETK ey Suggested route tmhie76OwcsDmr iurcnpae t hHirnNecbssAehatnaciGeah o snGempeltatorootldierol,fovoounai fd evirafisnnsngrn ia rneaDc,eoa,it mn,na2ceao unlwg lt0le uMot c linMdcMo0 qhstotth9iacho u esHloua la,r per heoaAbnstielsutl cohneagj bs isestauimduyeiesdihconos mmiuiltceendnnpasol. r sMgw’ peurr ismoee vsuuihssmieeolun lsms w a iensr dhe ovsuatolsureeaddb i.ln e ac afrogrom seur cDhu atcs h Ais sshuogwgnes wteitdh rao duotett efodr rae wd alilnke . For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp217–19 and pp229–31 For map symbols see back flap (cid:3) HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE 7 A feature deals with a topic related to that region or place. 100 (cid:3) SRI LANKA AREA BY AREA THE WEST COAST (cid:3) 101 4 DEieibAtfonnooannuledfll clo tv itottilrhvdirhahyswm iii,eised ntltii e anguhigaRmdtgahreesieo l gtrpilat e ynnilhionois. s fieWr odnsotdt en anardeoidtml nues mthM cthmtiia nanrapeait ibjb rlolpioeea oeesr.arcd dirn d gcei en hhs rg ,t s . hlsuoHsottmtdotooOqRTBimbsTaatybwBtaIoai sBsdathrhhihhotuoevffmnnnhhoaamnvufa oeo epin ueiewaotooeTaeaBtla galwwaev deeetewelueeh tndduanraie,httgLp nevs rdegr dan cnn lxe nf garsaanwespctnsnwalaben.rwepoee isc op e uo m ’gtc gtrohThr9snaermrcdai . re( rdeohshunh snoogeoeteaho oashaT iusctanndav,ntetorvtniirei me ectpngkmunpaonhaftrneisclhpsntniac)d;et oe lee st .s.rsrghuteh t eguech e et– e lhetueev ndet ∑iasa Bbhns chpho rhate di5rrhtilr a ” ida t o6nrhr yvdet.iyoutve hsth7oped wnohseckgr io e.n 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ipiuo wi ichaseiemTmmote eeonensihrr,sernhsenn ewi eaggea mulbs t es g dw tvd T.antorseno tttuH heiUa uehuT r p v ndaanmiiaceytdteolyentrernCenelerhngs oanntn yteiayusyarttatf lrPel dcat,edscsoc ah hd rntoeinsapc tjen ieprls ogaosreyeh hmien paga d snattttnttar iueuyd neaudpmnphhneuh .ir reg u ncrrs acso TnehrteTgreebian.steobiign ip snuahcCaaeanfgfce iereg utohthrinief nttnsie Paeceoteiyesoreocpidknpatud uae s n gsls ohlmbvsitbatd wr ym esem,e dhu gt h1tf istf, atsha e ln owe aeehkoem ein9umtbcesseowrrsrr um,s eckf9 oeedsu gv psomfTEoicMhetrtnafbwhn rier iee3ehir shisotgsi sgarn1nnstthck.tt iooe tmahdota hr .eeaStaleglso p9 ytHigeieaceltar irc.r nasrseyn os nheut uah7leitis–t sessloa d h ign eosgageibL rnmt l ua0 n ciit oa le –l anv na etnn id ilpccsn onsdso neeif tgbiedws.cthe noe ia enr spkKctstshTl,s urtag euvase ae etst soothetcmht e.hort rer sn pnhoohcsNoeh ieelte rogerib goraielrllatin es nv lefp.bTsrrhhs repnod,sge e ,,smereut rtjor ssdii eosi ehBntagein onnoterteproudan bnehh hafe-gkwernta Cr bcdsttteebvf e aldsotrhltiuhabthe d yuasoyti nudcgtytreand ei htms otrale irnotadbrt itgtilewaysatno euooticnsig ao attl ccns Ks rtn teainlmttn c,tlloihantee hahoeetatht, ol yaess shdteaesenndeelt ootststlpsd aoe hgssi dltml sr.bn b sterily s vbiea Feihenho etlge en echyaiette ai nraagi foa eey.lrtem irsan at ec netDle Si ga1acrsaprththrp sag aoteehep0cr soti.o aeelt ov itss et0h ecanr iulhfiops sLnllvp orcf Teiiule too ng ien e acawtttuubtunptgreumhhirrdineg dreoreyltgb certtrahc tk tile r tn olsInoocleytalielettnnall e einag gia iomenucsabtal ,odn s tc agvnaokdCg ukeeu s etnoualycis ,iscl h ohmbsdl y n aio ltrutfatlneponee nhaiuh sinrceupnaemdaei ef eesafwdleRsbdet guc lryaeitucfeye s v oheoueshi oag isg r.nanerno learkacve eelhst eaa fstilaiacv at svolth.snfn uyih wtettreenieinr,dd ioeo d i n oar sm n n. , For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp216–17 and pp228–9 Story boxes explore specific subjects further. 136 (cid:3) SRI LANKA AREA BY AREA KANDY AND THE HILL COUNTRY (cid:3) 137 Temple of the Tooth The Story of the Buddha’s Tooth VISITORS’ CHECKLIST ThBtTwsVbD1keLbeThhiha9uioyuunhmmTrrt eeduttKgielhE n c iasdpiTteni t henoeelebchl ra ehs te mgf moaiw eh naDnKSs ’msnRppesatcrtah o tati uluslbsnD reeaoLj oiraroi ad rn ouaysnwodnmsryicn ttgfi oibcha,caegn ka tenywhstb. igha bn s S.B tpaS’ heh asTehauwudr l toeheTmlueiritll i loi nWyeyat nIbtyhoIho c adicudpr(iesn ktcer oaeitaaaIh.e lks 1 tnrtml(rim,dtrhaem r 6tstooa. c de1a3htoatmrrperh g5 4e esf1uaSo s9ee–awd t6lcrmrioh0 d1iv.ttctRa nhe–eDa6e oisatt 1ngd 8 h aaRycjsra6t6 tletee owd ai so0)Bnnan y uditi4nfnun etoator1a)uhegdldmiv; l7 n r Ml Phdai gto6yrtgpahtehe a,aw5we lle,ttpiteal. dshihi et acTg lnpthia ewese nihagranec e rwoerac le 1 eteallty roadih9amhbicic.gmgs ,e 9e,eAu tt a ni 8th npi n i h l ,neota l e e lf x . SOAoTionorbnlcguio jc tetDttuh hhcMapet eRls ay af eeiilrdnrielxgsigcatltaae. fwtMTtnlehohtadue oeo, srrttff.eheio rt usi hasttrmhe mea e1 np u9tdhes9 eoms8uet obpcmgoole rmns aahdpbno hf ddwlso a tcsohmhare soao ewgfs e - LcdebAfoAmtYinroaerifuoinDg ev opgKhPimumi,hlv adtaerotr tiehn hatnenau Kokdudddetdscai e wnhehy e alTidsi gnaosnroaiitnt ospaudt ig otn io utunHos1oate enhr 5I meePnnsia dn9 ti moR adghtsa2 hmleSI,iheon anafaarl otnmdie dirnct i elpnnL il dbtaaalowaa iahcf 5ul,wnh rarteasc4utet.ak. nsoi s 3awrnIDsa t ,nb a tg;f Babtu ewhcnrot ,Creo weweedDi acne,kuma . shohBa engwTlg emiufpuei h cshihtedmrpdnlh ehbsetrerh d e tei etTisaratnsort em ooh ttdTi n4gw uesau tto aheetyaiShahksspvhe tnve fe.wireeheo eenra ei iAcse n yg ,nsfaLshra ce a i a rsa wbtsrwstahwnto r n oeinaowuiintahuerve rn uk isamceiral nireatdtrecreeds oydr shb . a r oeyfyal. orApf roo ’rees popifaf nx orw aAgBrct priorehuitnalilfsruvfaetdalst lset,iiit sd ntnTh H d fMoodhigiren sfooimae s ntagbm htpasa lh ueKmithir gc a ioIoaRloanttdantul duewathiwdinnlh eaie cyndgsiaetr,,. TOd5fPPn∑oeaparprlalim al e py(c1sc0n. hrt 6ed8Sii o, dTca r1SDteiaia) qolD myell2ug a.via 2pa&nrdal2aarlf aeep Vdo2m,: ih ar(6dK5a my6aiM:ad3y)1ln.aa0 diu.gd .ati stiaymeio.ow u n–nma7 a.pl:l k9fme ae m – Ssitgahrtss itnhdaitc antoe vthiseit ofer asthuoreusld o mr iss. 5 Sri Lanka’s Top Sights RTecfdpoahlehaerser ojpk5ma tmeh0 oTit acg y uudn errssatueaek pwrmrueishnmhr ausg iiM c nnd itshsteuh i dltoecs aheeaf iE edlruRisrn iaimadcegjlaiaade th deaPtirhds eie ner l tiao f oT1ehno 9 Rel oi8dranat8jiehsa .( p, Tst Rthelhaheeeeyle ip wc ta1a na3xdl9il-s ). 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(wl.eRkIs u dacnogd ftexh tste ntafraely mVe vRrt aaieothue or ao,.dP ruauhcso nylmihtd wh ei tyfnrjaw saer nsrKestlhso reya,aoioudln.eyreetee itoroty nta aapawtsaurtKTaeeuauu ss e drtx odesuireKiaswaagnhTlbhienrsnn nn sdrsotespinTa , drdiftexa o ;g at eteeeea dd sfngtd a khooKnetrlh1th opivobeo dlonl yao)ithi ashyci flibanot.a8inad e r.f eyrssey Lds t r i erma met nadfdet1nsihlatg aa tehv te rhnsattns ap ,vkhhshf5ewid gee oddl:hdn. eneaeo eoeti ski ePi,i.nterdh Toar eobo ytrl ana dorfnhe tTteat gcliym dei h ow mthteyrt h yrth tlane,cai e r am heaaott e soe neeae i liy r,sor nnaems o r.a f., k t a oeo ft mit v,g. kh s ut eciho ehoesatirva stle s laofsstTtOSVhtdaB fyyb iestrohh tataik nhuafei,oimto arpry ns se Tems eonsdKeamtntdnmgh paoh hh egpt w B nagadmdwrtc-nochoeoeme l u ecenogsethotrdnu asume nhhe Nmdeaef drdtieieees’ o ssstvshneo(dtmdBa xvhde tety o pui o eitErn haih dbtr 1r en bscra lrBN phii ifsol ie st o4n sastotestt PeMateuaalaae shif teet esteilasmntn ( ’hl ptsid cseetegaD rthaethtsh dds che ech stlhdg o.fce ecel asefei Pamoseesieinaeodohi vn a tvitthesDc moid)nsiddlylrianpiio e dnaar nsefDi 1D. etesln e lattmttsTteuepKHergh8egvoseee xhtehn irs) asiadr1tii v nrv optysnS mo eheei ndmlot anaa5a .e t diVls ndrtordtelnfNoonlle.h eaiuiei h esas uidn ycnTo s hkrh eev.,hsPd,dte . h gii onl eaaaEf atciewinaeraeo us aohlr idn saalttiutvngt biiselnhDtheun.ntdtdesaa timey seeg in iyesr ec y ltve ed- iy has, s,s . lt e fKbaEOCOo(ctpotmisfpmtEB9MOoNafTdatadttsencdcDsreiuohhriutuaeaoan srhn.llaolffauyeaeo pa1aoenowceoaorn mrau h reernctv ndgedKtpvbntdittet 5encevnpst sviavgiKAhc hsa shiain ni –uti nghwd e9 uail,coiosab ilreeaehn&B aicttika e n a4di ro,iaadcc r0usreiipaidwltns l txue8m teueaigsoec:o io e spmggnne3hann he–Tst ntrohaTyapa nm sthldsh nsnsut0,lslo asadm1i)euVrmsdoe eidntl fjbi efla ,tewepinbd. faab aa m a ae6aeon di p,Ms nabaiytgl cTlr u–m vmedlsgnTgl i.lhwyensi0h fsithe s dse eghetcd 5ie uaoainbcch hse Nugdn 4oio. dls .ew iasspim yo Tts trid eh ioorcTg yi mss A)tss eshadf hh iu tllnolm ias,KotdooEhh i iaahlehna sel pog. rrmgned t ehteaalednetletauars deIeiu el y eluahrs e–gDcWteps ilu gcdnar etahdie.sna f f crQno ue s onSimmh aawmaloy&ts(iioskme r s ohsi oe idstandtKcetsdtwt nweh sogni-,ustrifddpadh o tseiaee,ratoa ym o prma esae.ottah ejot – cohiah s ruudeauulabh eCm hdsnlnl ustslombp,tMelotinfd i -ptopa semem rawlk.e. 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