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specialityfoodmagazine.com June 2022 £3.25 CONNECTING THE FINE FOOD AND DRINK INDUSTRY LITTLE BUTTON BAKERY A PLASTIC PLANET FOX & FOX KATE TYNAN: SIAN SUTHERLAND: JONICA FOX: THIS SUMMER’S THE FUTURE OF THE RISE OF CAKE TRENDS FOOD PACKAGING ENGLISH WINE P. 30 P. 34 P. 36 2 EDITOR’S 6 Stefano Cuomo, LETTER Macknade 8 John Shepherd, Partridges 15 Lawrence Barnett, Wonderland Design 22 Lisa Kerr, Rowcliffe 23 James Grant, Welcome to the June 2022 No2 Pound Street issue of Speciality Food. This issue has REGULARS 9 16 been produced during a very challenging time for the food 9 Trend Watch: sector and world community as Mexican Food 30 a whole, as the war in Ukraine impacts many aspects of society 14 Product News across continents, food prices soar, and the cost-of-living crisis 20 Centre Spread: BBQ begins to bite. The fine food industry has 22 Counterpoint: How to made it through a challenging two years, and it looks as though Sell Cheese Al Fresco the near future is going to be tough too, so once again we must 22 Cheese Uncut do what we do best: support our communities. 38 Last Words The next few months will likely be tough in many ways, FEATURES but British shoppers are always keen to celebrate the summer 10 Meet the Producer: months and so in this issue we The Precious Pea are sharing tips and product recommendations around selling 13 California: Produce cakes and puddings, snacks, and the joys of English wine among of the Highest Quality many other seasonal indulgences. We've also been busy putting 16 The Perfect Dunk together our annual Drinks Buyer guide, which I hope you will find 26 International Cheese & an inspiring read. Dairy Awards 2022 preview HOLLY SHACKLETON | EDITOR 28 The Store Cupboard [email protected] Goes Premium 30 Have Your Cake & Eat It 32 Conscious Snacking 34 The Complete Package 36 The Rise of English Wine @specialityfood 3 Queen’s speech falls short for indies "The government’s response to the National Food Strategy is now long overdue, and a Food Bill would represent the best vehicle for The Queen’s annual speech ahead of the new parliamentary year delivering its recommendations. We desperately need to overhaul our food has left some small businesses feeling underwhelmed system to build resilience in the face of climate and geopolitical turmoil In the midst of a growing cost a situation where small firms are Empty high street stores your high street as in a supermarket. and spark a shift to nature-friendly, of living crisis and the highest caught between the consumer I think there are many more agroecological farming that supports The so-called ‘death of the high inflation rates in 30 years, Prince price cap and the leverage that challenges to supporting the British healthy and sustainable diets. We street’ is a major concern for town- Charles outlined the government's big corporates can yield when high street than what people think; fear a half-hearted response to the based delis, cheesemongers and priorities for the year ahead as he negotiating contracts. it’s about making local high streets National Food Strategy represents a specialist retailers, who often rely on delivered the Queen's Speech. "More direct financial support accessible for people to shop in, such missed opportunity. passer-by trade. The speech highlighted some of is what will make the difference to as parking that isn’t overpriced. “The climate and nature crises The new Levelling Up and the 38 laws that ministers intend to our members – reducing the risk “Governments need to speak to are escalating, but the legislative Regeneration Bill announced will pass in the coming year including a that further hikes in utility bills feed retailers and speak to the people agenda laid out in this Queen’s give more power to councils so they new Levelling Up and Regeneration through to even higher consumer because if you don’t give people what Speech suggests our government can take control of buildings that are Bill and an Energy Security Bill. prices – alongside a Help to Green they want, they aren’t going to shop is more interested in stamping out standing empty on the high street. But independent retail has been initiative to incentivise on-site on it and won’t support the high legitimate protests, forcing through According to Prime Minister Boris left feeling underwhelmed by energy generation.” street. Each high street needs to suit environmentally questionable trade Johnson, “The move will ensure some of the measures announced Tom Ironside, director of business the needs of the people. deals, and deregulating unpopular that landlords auction shops that yesterday, and the Federation of and regulation at the British Retail “Everyone's paramount should be gene-editing technologies, than the have been vacant for over a year Small Businesses (FSB) insisted Consortium (BRC), also called for the about how to get people back on the important task of reforming our to prospective tenants, putting “Words should be matched by action”. government to go further. high streets, because without that broken food system. buildings to good use and create National chair Martin McTague "We welcome efforts to increase opportunities for new businesses and footfall and income, there’s no point "As recently highlighted by the explained, “So far, levelling up efforts the frequency and efficiency of talking about business rates.” IPCC, we cannot reverse the climate community groups, paving the way have been too vague to have any revaluations, to allow the rateable for new jobs to boost employment, and natural crises without significant meaningful impact – the time has value of properties to better reflect Absence of a Food Bill changes to how we eat, which will strengthening local economies and come for flesh on the bones." market rates. The Soil Association noted a key also improve the nation’s health restoring local pride.” "Nonetheless, the failure to reduce absence in the speech – a Food Bill – the government must take bold But Charlie Hodson, owner of Energy crisis and costs the overall burden of business rates that would set out a roadmap to action now. Hodson & Co Deli, is sceptical about The FSB was pleased with the means the bill falls well short of the strengthen our food system, ensuring “With many families struggling to these initiatives to tackle the high energy crisis measures promised fundamental reform that is key to good quality food is available for put food on the plate, the absence of a street issue. He explained, “The high but still felt that it fell short of what unlocking retail investment across everyone as we enter the worst bill to make good food available to all streets are being decimated as the is needed. the country. superstore supermarkets are being cost-of-living crisis in decades. is nothing less than negligent." Martin commented, “Energy "Retailers account for 5% of the Rob Percival, head of food policy at There are some aspects of the built, it’s about teaching people to security has rightly moved up the economy but pay 25% of business the Soil Association, explained, “The speech to be hopeful about, but the support local British farming. Government’s agenda in recent rates, this is neither fair nor absence of a Food Bill in the Queen’s consensus is that retailers are left “We need to start educating people months. On the ground, we have sustainable." Speech is deeply disappointing. wanting more. that you can shop just as wisely from specialityfoodmagazine.com 4 UK government makes U-turn on HFSS, delaying restrictions on promotion The UK government has announced that some planned Independent fine food retailers are also understandably worried, as restrictions including promotions on HFSS (high fat, sugar they will struggle to promote higher- or salt) products and post-watershed advertising will be quality food during the cost-of-living delayed until October 2023 crisis while big retailers continue to offer discounts on unhealthy food Praising the delay was Kate “The Government could consider and snacks. Halliwell, the chief scientific officer far more effective measures to Andrew Goodacre, CEO of the at the FDF, who told Speciality Food, support families to access healthy British Independent Retailers “We welcome the UK Government’s and nutritious food during this cost- Association (Bira), explained, pragmatism during the cost-of- of-living crisis. Beyond addressing “This partial U-turn does not help Inflation hits 9% in living crisis. At a time when both real living wage and adequate independent food outlets that will families and our manufacturers benefit levels, some specific ideas continue to promote the benefits are struggling with high inflation, include expanding Healthy Start of fresh, better-quality food. Once the UK, the highest it makes sense to delay the voucher eligibility to more families again, we see the cost burden of this restrictions on volume promotions with young children, which supports new legislation being passed on to for everyday food and drink products them to purchase fruit, vegetables, businesses who are already dealing rate in over 40 years as it risked further stretching and infant formula.” with significant increases in costs.” already pressed household budgets.” But Caroline Cerny, of the Obesity Rising inflation rates hit 9% in May, Ukraine and Russia are important Health Alliance campaign group, with further increases on the horizon. suppliers of commodities including dismissed the idea that keeping The Office of National Statistics wheat and food oils, as well as energy promotions would help consumers (ONS) revealed last month that the and fertiliser. facing pressure on incomes. She inflation rate in the UK had jumped With millions of people across explained, “Research is crystal clear to 9%. This was the highest figure the UK now fighting to keep food on that multi-buy promotions are a the UK has seen in over 40 years, the table, the British Independent false economy that do not save us marking the worst cost-of-living Retailers Association (Bira) is money. They are a marketing tactic crisis since 1977. demanding that the government purposely designed to entice us to Higher fuel and food prices, driven provides more aid than is currently buy more and buy more often. by the Ukraine war, are also pushing offered. Andrew Goodacre, CEO of Barbara Crowther, coordinator the cost of living up, with inflation Bira, commented, "Whilst there is an of the Children’s Food Campaign expected to continue to rise this year. understandable focus on the cost of at Sustain, said, “People end up Karen Betts, chief executive of the living, we would urge the government spending up to 20% more, not less, Food and Drink Federation (FDF), not to forget about targeted support over the course of a year. told Speciality Food, “This is a very for businesses also struggling to worrying time for many households, deal with the extra costs due to Research is crystal clear that multi-buy promotions and food and drink businesses are inflationary pressures. are a false economy that do not save us money. They are a continuing to do everything they can "Retailers are doing all they can to contain food-price inflation. to reduce the impact on prices for marketing tactic purposely designed to entice us “Ingredient price rises have been shoppers which means reduced relentless for more than a year now, profit margins for everyone. We to buy more and buy more often as a result of pressures in the global would like to see this year’s 100% supply chain caused by the COVID-19 increase in business rates reversed pandemic. The war in Ukraine has and some way of helping businesses made the situation worse, as both manage the rising costs of energy.” THE UK NOW HAS A HIGHER RATE OF INFLATION (9%), THAN ANY OF THE G7 COUNTRIES, INCLUDING GERMANY (7.4%), ITALY (6%) AND FRANCE (4.8%) SOURCE: BLOOMBERG @specialityfood 6 Nature-friendly farming on the rise “Conscious consumption” as more farms convert to organic your consumption accordingly. More farms across the UK are choosing eco-friendly farming, with land going through I am part of it, we all are. I have the two-year conversion period to organic rising by 34% in 2021 to shoulder my responsibilities and direct my own change. Yes, I wear my ‘infinite goal’ of ‘Human Data released by Defra revealed Association, told Speciality Food, dealt with many shocks over the and Environmental Harmony’ as a that land going through the two- “It is encouraging to see that the last few years but opportunities for badge of honour, but that title, the year conversion period to organic latest statistics show confidence sustainable farming remain strong idea that I can never personally rose by 34% in 2021 compared to in organic farming is on the rise with rising consumer demand and STEFANO CUOMO achieve it gives me wriggle room. the previous year. UK organic land in the UK. Our farming sector has government support for organic.” MACKNADE The driver behind business also rose by 3.6% last year, following growth has been so simple for so a rise of 0.8% in 2020. This rise Consumption – the most long: sell more. So as businesses in organic farming is expected feared disease at the turn we build the plans to deliver. to continue in 2022 after the of the century’. A statement As consumers, we suck up that government announced in February from the turn of the 20th century, plan, because we love to consume. that they would pay up to double the when TB ravaged our shores, With ‘right’ price deals, glossy previous rates to farmers in England influencing every part of our culture marketing, boredom, ownership, who convert to organic. and society. belonging, soft promises… Why Organic Farmers and Growers Here we are, and over a century would we not? CEO, Roger Kerr, was unsurprised on it is still sucking the heart out of So it goes on until we decide by the increase in conversions, our communities, however it is a that it can’t. Until we decide that the explaining, “There is a strong very different ‘beast’ that consumes model has to change. appetite from farmers to shift to us now. Which of course, we do. We start more agroecological practices and You can’t beat a dictionary to make lifestyle choices to take a the opportunity for organic and definition for a blunt descriptive: stand, shouting into the wind “Eat the premium gained for certified produce is clearly attractive.” ‘Consumption: the action of using less! Eat better!” But this change Sophie Kirk, business up a resource.’ (In our global reality: needs to occur at scale and we all development manager for Soil a small part of society using up all know that the first movers, whilst the resources that matter.) noble, will perish. But do they? Here lies the problem; while I The innately unachievable love the capitalist ‘freedom’ we nature of ‘infinite goals’ gives us have and have worked hard for – the predetermined excuse of not you graft, you get – the reality is achieving them. But yet we need that this is far from the complete those bright guiding lights, singing truth. In fact, without clearer to the naivety of our youth and and honest objectives graft’s recalibrating what great looks like. achievements are hollow. We have to drive for something, Children of the eighties were and to think that collectively we can nourished on Hollywood dreams start to shape our communities’ of having it all. No, not only could experiences so that consumption we have it all, we were duty bound is not an unrestrained habit, not an to make sure we took it all. Our incontrollable greed. western sophistication predicated Rather it is what makes us on being able to maximise growth human, how we respect our through unfettered consumption environment and precious world and if you stood in the way? Well… around us, how we define who we So, what to do when the world are, sharing our differences whilst around us finally shows the strain of basking in our similarities. that consumption? When the years I imagine a time where we can of taking more than we needed, the explicitly illustrate the real value in years of not caring, the years of not a price ticket. Highlighting how the giving a damn start to take their toll? transactions feed back into multiple Take meat, for example. For layers of our society, to service, years, society has purchased its to state, yes to the owners and meat from supermarkets, sourced their assets, but furthermore to the from intensive, industrial farms suppliers, producers, stewards, our where grain and soy are both a committed teams and their families, key part of the animals’ diets. We to our community. This is long- are well aware that this contributes lasting and impactful economics, hugely to deforestation, yet so it not short, sharp shareholder return. continues. Butchers like ours are So, let’s aim for that revenue pushing for change, moving to a growth, but let’s build on the back product with pasture fed farming at of real quality and community its heart, but you have to be willing engagement, and not simply on to pay for that quality or reduce dictionary-defined consumption. We have to drive for something, and to think that collectively we can start to shape our communities' experiences so that consumption is not an unrestrained habit, not an uncontrollable greed @specialityfood 7 THE STORY BEHIND NEWS IN BRIEF THE STATS ‘SUPER FARM SHOP’ PLANNED TO OPEN AT NORFOLK SHOWGROUND Norfolk Showground is preparing to construct an ambitious £2.3million 6.7% 50% food hall and market garden just outside Norwich to showcase the county’s celebrated food and drink producers. The new venture is set to include a shop, café, butcher and delicatessen championing Norfolk Alongside an overall inflation The UK government increased produce, along with an outdoor increase to 9%, the Office for the Countryside Stewardship seating area and a two-acre market National Statistics revealed that rates in January by 50%, with garden which will be the base for a food and non-alcoholic drinks converting permanent improved community growing project. Is the UK ready to become prices have risen by 6.7%, grassland and top fruit to organic PRODUCT GURU TO which is slightly more than food increasing to £150 per hectare. LAUNCH POP-UP BRAND a cashless society? manufacturers had feared. Karen Conversion to organic rotational SHOWCASE STORES Betts, chief executive of the Food land, horticulture and unimproved Award-winning tech platform and Drink Federation (FDF), told grassland will also receive around Product Guru will be launching a series of tech-powered pop-up Digital payments seem to be more This is something fine food Speciality Food that the inflation 50% more, with new rates ranging concept stores in London from desirable for both businesses and retailers are also acutely aware of, figures are "very sobering". from £76 to £602 per hectare. the 11th to the 16th of September, consumers, but with the rise in the as Jo Pacey, head of marketing at named POP, for business owners cost of living, more people are now Crimple, explained. “Cash is often to expose their brands to hundreds relying on cash to help them budget. preferred by those living in areas with 5.7 8.8 of key players in the industry. POP A new report from the RSA (The poor connectivity. A cashless society will feature on-shelf technology Royal Society for Arts, Manufactures would surely alienate the country's bn m to display product data and brand and Commerce), The Cash Census, most vulnerable.” videos where buyers and attendees has proved that the pandemic Jen Grimstone-Jones, co-owner of will be able to scan products to has not accelerated the nation’s the Cheese Etc, Pangbourne Cheese learn more, request samples, move towards a cashless society, Shop, mirrored these thoughts. “There and ask questions. reinforcing the argument that cash are people who prefer to start the A recent report from the FDF There are currently 7.2 million still has a vital place in society for so week with £X in their wallet and they revealed that Scotland accounts people eating a meat-free diet in ENVIRONMENT SECRETARY many people. know that’s their weekly spending for the largest share of UK food the UK, but a further 8.8 million TELLS CONSUMERS TO The data showed that despite money. It’s an easy way to budget and and drink exports, with almost Brits plan to ditch animal products SHOP ‘VALUE BRANDS’ cash usage taking a hit during the I do think it is very easy to lose track 30% of total exports. This was this year, according to In a recent Sky News interview, pandemic, millions of people across of your spending when you use a card worth £5.7bn, in 2021, an increase finder.com’s annual UK Diet environment secretary George the UK are still reliant on cash and all of the time.” of 14.6% since 2020. Food and Trends research. But there is a Eustice advised shoppers to buy even those that are not reliant still According to James Harris, Drink Federation Scotland’s clear age divide when it comes ‘value brands’ in order to survive want the flexibility of choice when managing director at Volumatic, “The making payments, with most people Cash Census report is an important chief executive, David Thomson, to views on eating meat. Gen the cost-of-living crisis and rising inflation. Responding to the highly choosing to use a combination of both reminder to us all that the UK is a commented, “It’s heartening to Z’ers (aged 18 to 23) are the most criticised comments, Rupert digital and cash payments. long way off being stable enough to see an increase in Scotland’s food likely to avoid meat already (25%) Evans, owner of Denstone Farm The report has warned that the support a cashless society. As well as and drink exports as the industry and plan on giving it up (30%). In Shop and Farm Retail Association sudden acceleration towards digital these key findings it also urges the begins to recover from the impact comparison, just 11% of the silent chairman, explained, “This limits has – and will continue to – put the Government and the finance industry of Covid-19 and Brexit. generation (aged 74+) avoid meat the consumers’ choice of local, UK’s cash system under extreme to change their existing policies by "We hope that new opportunities and only 5% plan to do so in healthy produce, which farm shops pressure and stated that ‘without a supporting and educating people in different markets will further 2022. There is a huge market to naturally promote. What is also managed transition, millions of the who want to make digital payments, increase sales of Scotland’s food sell vegetarian food to in 2022, disturbing about these comments most vulnerable people would not keeping our cash infrastructure viable and drink abroad.” and plenty of opportunities to is that local food with short supply be able to cope, and many more and maintaining cash acceptance cash in on the plant-based pound. chains is often cheaper than what is would struggle.’ across the UK.” available in supermarkets.” specialityfoodmagazine.com 8 What does the future of “Royal connections” seasonal eating look like? Marmite, Schweppes, Lea and Perrins and HP Sauce for example. Somewhat intrigued by this I decided to check how many Royal With growing climate disruption causing early harvests wouldn’t normally be available.” Warrant brands adorn our shelves and milder winters, seasonal eating may look very This is something that Rob in Partridges – my estimate being different in the near future – but is seasonality really over? Brown, technical and sustainability somewhere in the region of 25. In manager at SunFresh Produce, has actual fact it turns out to be over also identified. “Seasonality will JOHN SHEPHERD 70! Which is quite convenient as Climate change is wreaking havoc supply chain manager at the Soil still remain a phenomenon [in the PARTRIDGES we celebrate her Majesty’s 70 on our seasons in the UK, and it Association explains, “Climate future], but the crops traditionally years on the throne. may have a significant impact on disruption is causing some produced in one geographic location B y the time you read this In truth, having an alcohol the way retailers sell sustainable seasonal produce to ‘shift’ so may shift to a neighbouring region article the Platinum Jubilee license helps to bump up the produce. "Mild winter brings British [crops are] coming into season as climatic conditions change.” Festivities will hopefully figure. For example, there are eight asparagus to shops eight weeks earlier and perhaps ending sooner Vicki echoed the idea of adapting have gone very well and we champagnes, five whiskies, two early,” was the headline in a national than expected or for that matter to the changing seasons, adding, have all had a very enjoyable gins, two ports, Pimms, Dubonnet newspaper at the end of February, continuing longer - but local “With climate change kicking in time celebrating Her Majesty the and certainly one brandy on the list and such headlines are likely to markets and local supply chains hard everywhere we need to support Queen’s tremendous achievement of Warrant Holders. become more commonplace in are adaptable and will showcase farmers who will have to change as a Monarch. There are also some large future as climate change takes hold. what is currently in season and growing patterns, varieties and However, the Royal Family has companies too such as Nestles, In the past, Britain’s weather at its freshest.” rotations to cope with the instability. also had a notable presence in the Britvic, Hellman’s, Colmans, Heinz patterns produced reliable It is possible that in the near Seasonality and variety may become world of speciality foods as well. and Weetabix. seasons that enabled farmers to future, produce that was previously even more critical – buying what the We all recognise the Duchy range, But smaller companies hold predict when to plant and harvest unable to grow in the UK may grower knows they can cope with sustainability initiatives and the their own too such as Rhug indigenous crops. But with climate flourish in the changing climate. will be ever more important and farm shops, but there is an area, Estate, Musk’s, Maldon Sea Salt, change wreaking havoc on our According to Lee, “Milder winters that will include seasonal produce less recognised, where we interact Montmartre Patisserie, Denhay and natural world, the seasons have will have an impact and we may see alongside different crops. We all with another royal initiative that Baxter’s Potted Shrimps. become unreliable. in time different produce coming need to share the burden of the ever few of us take notice of. How much these 70 products As Lee Holdstock, senior onto the market that perhaps more challenging food system.” According to the Royal Warrant contribute to the overall sales mix Holders Association website there I have not calculated, but they WHEN ASKED ABOUT THE SEASONALITY OF CERTAIN BRITISH are 118 food and drink companies would certainly be regarded as that hold a Royal Warrant out indispensable by many of our VEGETABLES, CONSUMERS WERE MOSTLY UNAWARE OF WHEN of 850 Warrants in total. This is customers and visitors. THEIR FAVOURITE PRODUCE WAS AT ITS BEST. COURGETTES a mere fraction of the business In 1994 we were very fortunate HAD THE HIGHEST LEVEL OF SEASONAL AWARENESS, WITH 39% community in the UK. Yet some of to have been granted a Royal them are very well known in the Warrant by HM the Queen ANSWERING CORRECTLY (JUNE TO SEPTEMBER), WHILE JUST 3% speciality food world. and it has been a very helpful KNEW THAT TOMATO SEASON WAS APRIL TO DECEMBER For example, names like and pleasant benefit in many Twinings, Walkers, Baxters and ways. Helpful because of the SOURCE: VEG POWER CAMPAIGN Wilkins & Sons have been the Sustainability Audits we carry out backbone of the smaller speciality every few years and the access food shop for generations. to training it brings and also the British government delays This is something the British Some of the Royal Warrant influence on our small export Retail Consortium is also conscious Holders have amazing stories too. trade. Pleasant for social reasons import checks for the fourth of, as Andrew Opie, director for Angostura Bitters was founded and the opportunity to support food and sustainability, explains. by a revolutionary German doctor various charities. time since Brexit “Retailers have been working with in South America. Justerini and So over the Platinum Jubilee their European suppliers for many Brooks or J&B by a lovelorn Italian weekend I will be raising a glass or The UK Government has announced than an erosion of confidence from months to help prepare them for the young man in pursuit of an opera two to Her Majesty. a fourth delay to the introduction of businesses who have been led down incoming border checks in July. singer, and closer to home and Make mine a Big Tom with new checks and requirements for a very costly garden path too many “The staggered introduction of less dramatically Frank Cooper’s Tabasco followed by a swig of just imports from the European Union times already. checks proposed was workable, by a grocer in Oxford. one of the eight champagnes and New checks at the British border “For some UK importers, [the delay] provided UK ports were ready, and There are many iconic brands a Walker’s Biscuit. God save the for EU imports were scheduled to may be welcome news and could offer exporting suppliers received the that hold a Royal Warrant – Queen and cheers! be implemented on 1 July 2022, but some relief from the spiralling cost support needed to complete the they have been delayed for the fourth of living increases impacting them. required checks. While any delay Make mine a Big Tom time to 2023. Other businesses, however, have is welcomed by retailers, given the Ian Worth, customs director spent considerable time and money added costs to the supply chain and with Tabasco at Crowe, commented, “The in preparing for these changes, which the level of friction anticipated, the repeated failure to implement had already been pushed back postponement of border checks will controls delivers nothing more three times.” only prolong the inevitable.” @specialityfood TREND WATCH 9 N Sponsored by oticed how Old El Paso’s silver – the type used in margaritas. yellow packaging dominates Diageo’s Don Julio is a bestseller. the World Food shelves of Bacardi-owned, super-premium Sainsbury’s? Whether consumers are Patron ranks well as does Ocho 8. buying fajita kits for home loading, a takeaway from Chiquito, or sharing HOW ELSE CAN WE MAKE carnitas, the famous Michoacan pork THE MOST OF THE TREND? The Life & Soul of the Pantry dish, at El Pastor taqueria, they can’t • Display cookbooks such as get enough of south-of-the-border Thomasina Miers’ new Meat Free cuisine. In a social media survey of Mexican with ingredient bundles the 32 most viral food trends, Birria such as ready-mixed Mexican tacos (Google them) came fifth, (YOY seasoning, tomatillos and to end April 2022, Beanies Coffee). refried beans. Waitrose offered masterclasses in • Customers can’t get enough of margarita-making at its cookery chipotle chillies (smoked jalapenos). school this spring, and in hipster Try Rubies in the Rubble or Hunter Peckham there’s a two-day festival and Gather Chipotle Mayo, or the of all things tequila with Mexican award-winning Chipotle Sriracha street food. from My-Chilli. WHAT’S BEHIND THE TREND? SHOULD WE PUT BURRITOS The arrival of premium tequilas as ON OUR BRUNCH MENU? opposed to nasty, adulterated ones. Of course, and how about summer The manager of 1910, a Mexican tacos, filled with courgettes, corn, cantina in London’s Balham, mint and green chili alongside explained: “Cheap tequilas had a Mexican beers like Sol or Modelo rep for giving you a hangover and Especial? Dulce de leche desserts people made an association: dirty and cinnamon-scented Mexican hot drink, dirty food.” Tequila has moved chocolate will lure sweet-toothed from being a stag night staple to a customers. sophisticated sipping serve and is now the top trending spirit for 62% of WILL THE TREND LAST? bartenders globally (Bacardi report) Absolutely. Healthy and varied, and the second fastest growing spirit there’s more to Mexican than melted category in value around the world. MEXICAN cheese and chilli dumped onto Hand-held, spicy food is a crowd NEW WAVE nachos. London even has a Michelin- pleaser and after lockdown, we’re starred Mexican restaurant, Kol. If overdue a party. Self-assembly fajitas we’re to eat less meat in future, we’ll with choice of filling suit omnivore need to use imagination. Across the and vegan alike. Go Mexican to maximise profits says Sally-Jayne Wright. Pond, chefs are redefining plant- based Mexican cooking with such I GET TORTILLAS AND TACOS This eating style is enjoying a resurgence upmarket dishes as tacos filled MIXED UP. CAN YOU HELP? with marinated hibiscus flowers, Taco means ‘sandwich’, a tortilla and carnitas made by frying enoki SUPERMARKET-STYLE WHY IS MEXICAN HOW DO WE GET wrapped around a filling. Tortillas mushrooms until crisp. What are the wheat-based wraps found TORTILLA WRAPS SEEM A CUISINE PERFECT FOR THE PARTY STARTED? happens there, comes here. in northern Mexico, the US and the BIT DOWNMARKET FOR PLANT-BASED EATING? Kick off with bar-strength, canned UK. In southern and central Mexico, FINE FOOD RETAILERS. The flour used to make traditional tequila margaritas from Cutwater tortillas are made of masa harina – GOT ANYTHING SUPERIOR? corn tortillas is treated with calcium Drinks. Xochitl and Manomasa are white (sometimes blue) corn flour. How about ready-made, genuine corn hydroxide. This adds calcium, two delicious corn snack brands. tortillas from the Mexican grocery essential for those on a dairy-free Introduced to fine food retailers in wholesaler, the Cool Chile Company. diet. Traditional Mexican cooking August 2021 after success in the Charlotte Pike, who teaches the celebrated beans, chillies, seasonal hospitality sector, Blanco Nino tortilla popular Mexican cookery course at veg and corn long before the meat- chips won Gold at the Free-From Harborne School in Birmingham, heavy dishes of Tex Mex. Classic Awards 2022. Variants include Chilli has a gluten-intolerant partner and recipes call for nutritious nuts and and Lime and Sea Salt (both white makes her own fresh corn tortillas seeds as thickeners in place of flour. corn). Our favourite was the deep- “TEQUILA HAS MOVED with a press. “I tried making them purple Ancient Grain (blue corn) from scratch using a rolling pin but CAN YOU EXPLAIN TEX-MEX? – sublime eaten with prawn cocktail. FROM BEING A STAG the dough is hard to roll out.” She It’s Americanized northern Mexican There’s profit in freshly made NIGHT STAPLE TO A reckons demand will grow. If your cuisine. Just as we Brits created guacamole and tomato salsa. Whole SOPHISTICATED SIPPING customers include keen home cooks, spaghetti Bolognese, so Texan Foods Market offers guacamole for SERVE AND IS NOW offer masa harina (not polenta) flour ranchers adapted dishes they’d £13.99 a kilo and reassures customers THE TOP TRENDING and tortilla presses. enjoyed down south. The rigid Taco that its avos are responsibly sourced. SPIRIT FOR 62% OF shells sold in supper kits are a Tex- WHAT ARE BURRITOS Mex adaptation. So are fajitas and I KNOW TEQUILA CAN BE BARTENDERS GLOBALLY AND CHIMICHANGAS? chilli con carne. DRUNK ON ITS OWN OR IN (BACARDI REPORT) AND The different names denote how a COCKTAILS. WHOSE THE SECOND FASTEST tortilla is filled, folded and cooked. For SHOULD WE STOCK? GROWING SPIRIT example, a burrito is a stuffed, flour Look for those containing 100% CATEGORY IN VALUE envelope; the same burrito deep fried agave. Drinks Retailing News reports is a chimichanga. that customers still prefer blanco or AROUND THE WORLD” The Life & Soul of the Pantry ORDER AT TRADE.TRACKLEMENTS.CO.UK OR CALL:01666 827044 MEET THE 10 PRODUCER While houmous is not customer base already boasting – yet – described as a At The Precious Pea, no effort or expense is spared when it high-level businesses including staple product, there can Riverford Organic and Abel & Cole, comes to producing the fine food market’s best houmous be no doubt that it is a must-buy interested readers could be in great product for shoppers in their droves. company in their quest to offer next- Millions of fridges up and down the level houmous to their customers. country will host the chickpea-based Enter The Precious Pea, a team “We prefer to ship direct, so you can dip, but all too often consumers dedicated to bringing discerning increase your margin and benefit must make do with the additive- consumers an exceptionally healthy from a significantly improved shelf packed, often low-quality options and delicious range of houmous. Run life,” explains Ayleen. “We make fresh available in the multiples. While by Mark and Ayleen – who bought every day and ship on the same day.” supermarket houmous is available the business in 2014 – and based in an impressive variety of flavours just outside the city of Bath, the team No stone unturned – from the classic, composed of is small and intends to stay small, As well as being confident that they chickpeas, tahini, olive oil, lemon producing low-quantity batches of are stocking the very best houmous juice and seasoning, to roasted onion organic houmous with an impressive on the market, The Precious Pea’s and Morroccan-spiced – none offer 12-day shelf life. This feat is managed retail partners can rest assured that the taste sensation that freshly made by the team using blast chillers the business is run conscientiously. houmous produced from the very at different stages of production “We are Soil Association and SALSA- best of ingredients can boast. – a much more time-intensive approved,” says Ayleen, “and have preserving method than the use just been certified as B Corp. We pride of preservatives all too often used ourselves on treating our staff with in larger-scale brands (even those brand and you will see for yourself. apricots, chosen for their natural and respect and are a Living Wage and masquerading as artisanal). We use 50% cold smoked chickpeas, complex sweet notes. Disability Aware employer, and we With a motto of “good people, doing smoked on the premises, and blend “Our Kalamata Olive houmous is eat together every day – a hot meal good things, makes good business,” with these with 50% unsmoked. It’s another no expense/effort spared is particularly appreciated by the the team is passionate about doing mouthwateringly good!” product,” continues Ayleen. Made early shift, especially on cold days. the best work they can to satisfy Indeed, every part of the process is using plump, whole, single estate It’s not a house rule or compulsory, discerning consumers’ appetites started from scratch at The Precious olives which are checked for stones but houmous is added to plates most for truly great houmous. “There is Pea premises, from sorting, soaking then chopped and added to the days by most staff!” something very satisfying about and boiling the chickpeas to creating business’s classic houmous recipe, This considered approach to doing something, however simple, their own ultimate spice mixes. the high percentage of this high running a business is not just a exceptionally well,” explains Ayleen, quality ingredient (each pot contains box-ticking exercise; it’s a long-term co-owner at The Precious Pea. An authentically 10% Kalamata Olive) “takes the approach for Mark and Ayleen. “We “We are delighted that our present flavour-packed range houmous to a different level.” pride ourselves on being an ethical customers appreciate our efforts.” With a selection of flavours in The Also in The Precious Pea’s range is business and constantly strive to By taking the time to do things Precious Pea’s roster – the range Organic Aquafaba – an increasingly minimise our carbon footprint,” says properly, using top quality organic currently consists of Classic, Smoked, popular egg substitute. “This ‘magical’ Ayleen. “This year we are having ingredients and the care and Turmeric, Red Pepper, Rose Harissa, substance is the thick water we are solar panels installed, thanks to attention they would apply if Organic Kalamata and Beetroot left with after boiling chickpeas,” Green Business Grants for their making the product for family and options – every houmous-lover’s explains Ayleen. support.” For The Precious Pea, their friends, each pot of The Precious Pea appetite is sure to be satisfied. use of plastic pots is their “biggest houmous is second to none – and “Turmeric is our best-selling Optimum retailer service embarrassment,” and they are keen this attention to detail certainly flavour,” says Ayleen. “It is delicately As well as producing The Precious to explore alternative options. “Ours pays off. “Our flavours are fresh and spiced and subtly sweet with an Pea-branded pots of houmous, Mark are the ‘friendliest’ you can buy but subtle,” continues Ayleen. “Compare aromatic finish.” This sweetness and Ayleen are proud to offer white they are still plastic,” she says. The our smoked houmous to another comes from organic dates and label houmous to retailers. With its team welcomes suggestions for alternative packaging options. From its dedication to producing By taking the time to do things properly, using top quality organic ingredients the fine food market’s best-ever and the care and attention they would apply if making the product for family houmous to its constant desire to “be good people, doing good things”, The and friends, each pot of The Precious Pea houmous is second to none Precious Pea offers a delicious taste of things to come. @specialityfood