Spain: Recipes and Traditions from the Verdant Hills of the Basque Country to the Coastal Waters of Andalucia

671 Pages·2013·30.98 MB·English

by  Koehler

FOR MY PARENTS, BILL AND JOANNE
Text copyright © 2013 by Jeff Koehler.
Location photographs and photographs on pages 19, 110, 273 (top right), 274, 296, 319, 326, and
327 copyright © 2013 by Jeff Koehler.
Plated food photographs copyright © 2013 by Kevin Miyazaki.
All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced in any form without written
permission from the publisher.
ISBN 978-1-45212954-9
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data available under:
ISBN 978-0-8118-7501-1
Designed by Alice Chau
Typesetting by Helen Lee
This book is typeset in Periódico, Block Berthold Condensed, Knockout, Duke, DuBois Block,
and Rough Riders.
Chronicle Books LLC
680 Second Street
San Francisco, California 94107
www.chroniclebooks.com
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
The list of those who helped this book in one way or another is long—
especially as I began working on it officially four years ago, though in
reality more than a decade before that, when I arrived in Spain and
initiated my apprenticeship in its kitchen. To the vast number of
butchers and bakers, farmers and fishermen, home cooks and chefs
who have each offered a piece to this great culinary and cultural puzzle,
I offer deep and sincere thanks.
There are a number of people in Spain for whose help I am particularly
grateful: Tomàs Borràs and Rosa Ramírez; Carmina Borràs and Robert
Cosials; Rosa María Borràs and Ramón Rovira; Marien Borràs and Xicu
García; Tía Encarnita, Tía Angelita, Tía Fermi, Tía Rosa, and Tía Tere;
Nicolas Morales and Pepe García; Albert and Jordi Asín; Antoni Cot;
Natalia Reixach, Jaime Pascual, and Àvia Lola; Elisabet Ars; Mari-Luz
Valero, Jesús Mansilla, Juana Ortega, Jesús Mansilla (padre), and Juan
Aspas; Francisco Nuñez de Prado; Eduard Pons; Gerard Veà; David
Montegut; José Manuel Arias; José Melero; Josep Ravell and Jesús
Benevente; Manuel Pérez Pascuas and Juana González; Virginia Irurita
and her staff at Made for Spain; Jorge González, Rúben Arnanz, and
Inmaculada Casado; Apelio García Sánchez; Gregoria Carrasco Sánchez
and family; Pedro Quijorna; Maria Pons and Pere Pons; Sandra
Martínez; Eugenia Sarasqueta; Cesc Segura and Eli Jaso; Mark Gregory
Peters and Olga Greño; Pilar Rodríguez, Cristina Chiva, and Dani
Cárdenas; and Caspar.
Outside of Spain, to those in the food and publishing world who were
particulary supportive, thank you: Naomi Duguid; Jodi Deleon; Leslie
Jonath; Rebecca Staffel; Mary Risley; Sylvia Whitman and Heather
Hartley; Mercedes Lamamie and Paz Tintoré; James Oseland and Dana
Bowen; Justin Paul, Marika Cain, and Melanie Fowler; Jocelyn
Zuckerman; Tina Ujlaki and Kate Heddings; Derk Richardson, April
Kilcrease, and Tara Guerting; Dick Doughty and Sarah Miller; Jeanne
McManus; Michelle Wildgen; Katie Workman and Mary Goodbody; and
Sandy Gluck and Lisa Mantineo.
Sandy Gluck and Lisa Mantineo.
My agent, Doe Coover, and those in her office, including Francis
Kennedy, deserve great thanks for their work on this from the very
beginning.
And at Chronicle Books, a huge thanks for everything on this book, our
fourth together. Warm appreciation to Bill LeBlond, Amy Treadwell,
Sarah Billingsley, Vanessa Dina, Steve Kim, Ann Spradlin, Doug Ogan,
Claire Fletcher, and Lorena Jones. Thanks to Peter Perez, David Hawk,
and Alyson Pullman on the publicity side. And Ann Rolke for her
copyediting. Thanks to Alice Chau for her design.
I would like to thank Kevin J. Miyazaki for his fantastic photographic
work on the plated dishes. Appreciation also to Ana Torrontegui for her
help in Barcelona and Dani Cárdenas in finding so much great
tableware. And Rosa María Borràs and Ramón Rovira for use of their
wonderful country place, which has always epitomized the best of the
rural kitchen for me.
A huge thanks to my family—especially my parents, Bill and Joanne, and
brother, Bill—for their support during the book.
My biggest thanks goes to my two girls—Alba and Maia—who have
eaten everything in the book on numerous occasions (or as close to that
as any father could ever wish). And to Eva, the reason I came to Spain all
those years ago—and stayed.
CONTENTS
Introduction 10
Before Turning on the Stove 16
CHAPTER 1
SOUPS, BROTHS, STEWS, CREAMS, AND PULSES
The Ritz’s Madrid-Style Cocido 20
Catalan Two-Course Soup 22
Castilian Garlic Soup 25
Basque Leek Soup 26
Creamy Artichoke and Leek Soup 27
Velvety Menorcan Fish Soup 28
Basque Fresh Tuna and Potato Stew 31
Beef Stew 32
Cream of Seasonal Mushrooms 35
Spinach with Garbanzo Beans 36
White Beans with Clams 41
Pinotxo’s Garbanzo Beans with Blood Sausage, Raisins, and Pine Nuts
42
Stewed Lentils with a Nutty Chocolate Picada 43
CHAPTER 2
SALADS, COLD SOUPS, AND GAZPACHOS
Curly Endive with Xató Sauce 47
Belgian Endive with Cabrales Blue Cheese Sauce and Anchovy Fillets 48
Winter Green Salad with Fresh Cheese and Pomegranate Seeds 49
Marinated Seafood Salad 50
Salt Cod, Orange, and Olive Salad 53
Catalan Shredded Salt Cod, Tomato, and Olive Salad 54
White Bean Salad with Bonito del Norte Tuna 55
Spanish Potato Salad 56
Melon or Fresh Figs with Slices of Dry-Cured Jamón 57
Chilled Melon Soup with Crispy Jamón 58
White Gazpacho with Grapes 59
Classic Andalusian Gazpacho 60
Córdoba-Style Salmorejo 62
CHAPTER 3
TAPAS AND APPETIZERS
Country Bread Rubbed with Tomato and Olive Oil 68
Catalan Flatbread with Roasted Red Peppers 70
Roasted Red Peppers, Eggplant, and Onions 72
Padrón Green Peppers 73
Cádiz-Style Potatoes in Vinaigrette 74
Dates Wrapped in Bacon 75
Trout and Dry-Cured Iberian Jamón Croquettes 76
Chicken Croquettes 79
Pork Ribs in Adobo Sauce 81
Spicy Marinated Pork Skewers 83
Empanada with Marinated Pork and Roasted Red Peppers 85
Salt Cod Brandade on Toast 87
Fresh Anchovies in Vinegar 88
Galician Fair-Style Octopus with Paprika on Potatoes 91
Deep-Fried Squid 92
Garlicky Shrimp in Olive Oil 93
Clams with Shrimp 94
Mussels in Vinaigrette 95
CHAPTER 4
VEGETABLES
Sautéed Wild Mushrooms 100
La Mancha–Style Sautéed Onions, Zucchini, Tomatoes, and Peppers 102
Stuffed Tomatoes 103
Balearic-Style Baked Stuffed Eggplant 104
Fried Eggplant Strips with Salmorejo 106
Green Asparagus in Vinegar Marinade 107
Fresh White Asparagus with Crispy Shards of Dry-Cured Jamón 109
Spinach with Pine Nuts and Raisins 110
Tender Spinach Leaves with Spanish-Style Poached Eggs 112
Roasted Artichokes 113
Roasted Beets in Vinegar 114
Baker’s Oven-Roasted Potatoes 116
Galician Boiled Potatoes with Paprika 116