Spain - Costa de la Luz

40 Pages·2002·5.112 MB·English

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Contents
Introduction 1
Coastal routes
The domains of Guzmán
el Bueno 2
Cadiz: “La Tacita de Plata” 6
Jerez and the Sherry
Triangle 10
Coto de Doñana
and the Romería del Rocío 16
The Port of the Three United Kingdom
Dublin
Caravels 18
From Punta Umbría
Ireland London
to Ayamonte 24
Inland routes
The route of las ventas
and the bulls 26
Paris
The white towns 27
Niebla and the wines
of El Condado 28 France
The Sierra de Aracena 29
Sierra minera 32 Cantabrian Sea
Leisure and entertainment 33
Useful information 36
Spain
Portugal Madrid
Lisbon
Mediterranean
Sea
Costa
de la Luz
Melilla
Ceuta
Rabat
Morocco
Atlantic Ocean
Canary Islands
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Introduction followed in the 8th century by
the Arabs, who stayed for
Apart from a few rocky another eight centuries. This
stretches, the Costa de la Luz is was also the jumping-off point
a continuous line of fine sandy for the most famous sea
beaches backed by pine groves. voyage in all history, which
Flanked by saline and marsh, brought Christopher Columbus
the lower reaches of the rivers and his three carvels to the
present a scene that has barely shores of America.
changed in centuries. The
name Costa de la Luz, or Coast Inland is olive-draped hill
of Light, comes from the way country and two of the
the sea reflects the sunlight loveliest mountain areas in
like a mirror. Spain - the Sierra de los
Pueblos Blancos in Cadiz and
This coastline preserves many the Sierra de Aracena in
reminders of ancient history. Huelva, in both of which the
Here was the kingdom of villages stand out white
Tartessos, where Phoenician against the landscape.
and Greek traders landed.
Later came the Romans,
Caños de Meca. Cadiz
Coastal routes remains of a mosque. The
ancient fortress and the small
The domains of peninsula of Punta Tarifa
Guzmán el Bueno provide fine vantage points
from which to view the coast
For nearly eight centuries this of Africa. Thanks to the west
part of the Coast lived through and east winds, Tarifa today is
alternating periods of peaceful a paradise for windsurfing (it
coexistence and warfare is the venue for international
between Arab and Christian. windsurfing championships)
Perhaps the image that best and acqualung fishing. There
encapsulates the are three beaches: Bolonia
confrontations between the (6 km), Los Lances (10 km) and
two cultures is that of a knight La Plata (4 km).
who hurls a dagger from the
battlements and enjoins the Inland from the stretch of
Arabs to slay his son with it. Atlantic coast between Tarifa
The knight concerned is and Cadiz are numerous
known to history as Guzman el ranges where fighting bulls
Bueno and the episode are raised. Fourteen kilometres
occurred at the fortress of from Tarifa a road leads off to
Tarifa, which still stands the Ensenada de Bolonia.
(albeit very much altered)
along with the original city
walls. Within is the church of
Santa Maria, built upon the Beach. Tarifa
2
Benamahoma
Chipiona
Jerez
Ubrique
Rota de la Frontera
Algar
El Puerto de PARQUE NATURAL
SIERRA DE
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de la Frontera
Sancti-Petri “Cueva del Tajo
Benalup de las Figuras”
Conil de Vejer
la Frontera de la Frontera Los Barrios
PARQUE NATURAL ACANTILADO
PINAR DE BARBATE 340 PARQUE NATURAL
Cabo de Trafalgar Barbate ALCODREN LOOCSALES Algeciras
786
Zahara de
los Atunes
Ensenada de Bolonia
Punta Camarinal Tarifa
Punta de Tarifa
Here lie the ruins of the
Roman town of Baelo Claudia,
now a museum, and a vast
extent of white, sandy beach.
Also on this stretch of the coast
isZahara de los Atunes,a
fishing town of long tradition
where bungalows and
residential estates have sprung
up in recent years. In spring
and late summer visitors to
Zahara can still witness the
time-honoured spectacle of
tuna fishing from the shore
with nets. Ten kilometres
further on is Barbate, site of
the famous Caños de Meca,
an area of exceptional beauty
with natural springs and
numerous pine groves
Baelo Claudia. Bolonia
3
Zahara de los Atunes outstanding are the church of
El Salvador, the Arco de las
crowding almost to the sea’s Monjas (Arch of the Nuns), the
edge. Hard by is Cape noble houses and the remains
Trafalgar, whose lighthouse of the mediaeval defence
stands as a reminder of the works.
famous battle where Admiral
Nelson fell at the moment of The next municipality along the
victory, along with the Spanish coast is Conil de la Frontera,
mariners Gravina and a fishing town which has
Churruca. The cape is bounded attracted a lot of tourism in
on either side by semi-virgin recent years, located as it is
beaches of near-white sand. near two immense beaches.
From Conil the road runs on
Only ten kilometres inland to Chiclana, an industrial
Vejer de la Fronterarears up town on the fringe of the
like a watchtower, reputedly marshland that surrounds the
one of the most Arab (and Bay of Cadiz.
loveliest) towns in the entire
province of Cadiz. Particularly Vejer de la Frontera
The old town displays white whitewashed brick with stone
house-fronts broken by large doorways and urn-decorated
windows with wrought-iron terraces – one of the finest
bars. Nearby is La Barrosa examples of Baroque
beach, one of the best-known architecture in the province of
on the entire coast, and the Cadiz.
abandoned hamlet of Sancti
Petri. On an island there, also
called Sancti Petri, stands a Fontanilla Beach. Conil de la Frontera
castle built on what was once a
Phoenician sanctuary, later
dedicated to Hercules by the
Romans.
The last stop before reaching Church of La Inmaculada.
the provincial capital is San Barbate
Fernando, a town closely tied
to the naval battles of the
Napoleonic wars. San
Fernando boasts a number of
monuments, chief among
them the twin-towered parish
church and the castle of San
Romualdo. The buildings are of
5
Cadiz: “La Tacita The new part of the city,
de Plata” recognisable by the modern
buildings, flanks a long avenue
In Cadizthe sea is the which is the only means of
beginning and the end of access for those arriving by car.
everything - “salt-glittering” The Puerta de Tierra, or Land
was the term used by the poet Gate – a piece of 17th-century
Manuel Machado. A seafaring fortification – separates the old
city always (founded by town from the new. The best
Hercules himself according to way to start is by taking a stroll
legend) Cadiz claims to be the through the Barrio del Populo,
oldest city in the West. If the most authentic part of the
possible, visitors should try to old Cadiz, which huddles
approach the city by sea, around the Cathedral - a large
crossing the bay on one of the Baroque building with a blue-
boats (known locally as tiled dome. Not far from there
vaporcitos, or little steamers) is the church of Santa Cruz, the
that shuttle between Cadiz first place of Christian worship
and El Puerto de Santa Maria in Cadiz founded by King
on the far side of the bay, a Alfonso X the Wise on the site
crossing of about one hour. of an Arab mosque. The many
Those who do will understand churches include Santo
why Cadiz is popularly known Domingo (which has a marble-
as La Tacita de Plata columned cloister), Santa
(the Silver Cup). Maria, Santiago, San Agustin,
Plaza de San Juan de Dios.
Cadiz
San Francisco (containing works Paseo Campo del Sur. Cadiz
by Montañés), San Antonio, El
Carmen and El Rosario (which remarkable filigreed balconies.
houses sculptures of the city’s Some also preserve the original
patron saints San Servando and gleaming brass-studded
San German). Also worth mahogany doors, which open
seeing are the old Cigar on to marbled patios bedecked
Factory, the Royal Prison, the with climbing plants and
Provincial Museum, the Santa flowers. On the side facing the
Cueva or Holy Cave (with sea, the houses are painted in
frescoes by Goya), the Town bright colours.
Hall, the Gran Teatro Falla,
Torre Tavira and the Oratory of
San Felipe Neri, where Spain’s
first Constitution was approved
in 1812. It contains a painting
by Murillo and is classified as a
National Monument.
Lining the Alameda and the
square of San Antonio are the
finest houses in Cadiz,
outstanding for their
Castle of San Sebastian. Cadiz
7