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Southern Africa PDF

771 Pages·2017·46.164 MB·English
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P D F Southern Africa PDF ebook Edition 7th Edition Release Date Sep 2017 Pages 768 Useful Links Want more guides? Head to our shop Trouble with your PDF? Trouble shoot here Need more help? Head to our FAQs Stay in touch Contact us here © Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this PDF ebook is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above – ‘Do the right thing with our content’. 3 easy-to-use How to use this book sections Look for these symbols to quickly identify listings: 1 4 Sights Sleeping r 5 Beaches Eating PLAN YOUR TRIP 2 6 Activities Drinking Your planning tool kit C 3 Courses Entertainment Photos & suggestions to help you create the perfect trip. T Tours 7 Shopping z Festivals 8 Information & Events & Transport All reviews are ordered in our writers’ preference, starting with their most preferred option. Additionally: Eating and Sleeping reviews are ordered by price range (budget, midrange, top end) and, within these ranges, by writer preference. ON THE ROAD Your complete guide Expert reviews, easy-to-use maps & insider tips. These symbols and abbreviations give vital information for each listing: Must-visit recommendation Sustainable or green recommendation No payment required % Telephone number f Ferry h Opening hours j Tram SURVIVAL GUIDE p Parking d Train n Nonsmoking a pt apartments Your at-a-glance reference a Air-conditioning d double rooms Vital practical information i Internet access d m dorm beds for a smooth trip. W Wi-fi access q quad rooms s Swimming pool r rooms v Vegetarian selection s single rooms E English-language menu ste suites c Family-friendly tr triple rooms # Pet-friendly tw twin rooms g Bus For symbols used on maps, see the Map Legend. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Southern Africa Malawi p118 Zambia p566 Mozambique Victoria Falls p169 p549 Zimbabwe p617 Namibia p242 Botswana p42 Swaziland p530 Lesotho p97 South Africa p322 Anthony Ham, James Bainbridge, Lucy Corne, Mary Fitzpatrick, Trent Holden, Brendan Sainsbury P LAN ON THE ROAD YOUR TRIP Welcome to Southern BOTSWANA . . . . . . . . 42 MOZAMBIQUE . . . . 169 Africa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4 Gaborone . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43 Maputo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 172 Southern Africa Map . . . .6 Mokolodi Nature Southern Southern Africa’s Top 17 . . 8 Reserve . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49 Mozambique . . . . . . . . .182 Need to Know . . . . . . . . . 16 Eastern Botswana . . . . .50 Ponta d’Ouro & If You Like… . . . . . . . . . . . 18 Francistown . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 Ponta Malongane . . . . . . . 182 Month by Month . . . . . . . 21 Makgadikgadi & Limpopo National Park . . 184 Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . .25 Nxai Pans . . . . . . . . . . . . .54 Central Mozambique . .195 Planning a Safari . . . . . . 31 Makgadikgadi Pans Beira . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 195 Southern Africa National Park . . . . . . . . . . . 55 Northern at a Glance . . . . . . . . . . .38 Nxai Pans National Park . . 57 Mozambique . . . . . . . . . 206 Chobe National Park . . .58 Nampula . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 206 Okavango Delta . . . . . . .65 Mozambique Island . . . . . 210 Maun . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .65 Pemba . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 219 Moremi Game Reserve . . . 74 Quirimbas Archipelago . . 224 Kalahari . . . . . . . . . . . . . .76 Understand Mozambique . . . . . . . . .228 Central Kalahari Game Reserve . . . . . . . . . . . 76 Survival Guide . . . . . . . . 233 Understand Botswana . . 81 MARK READ/LONELY PLANET © SMNLuEoarrSsvteOhirveuTaa . lHs .GtO .eu . .r i . .nd . .e . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1 098077 WNNENNtoaoAionmrrsMttdhhhihbaI-eoB iCrNaeneI akA . n .tN .it . .o .ra .n .a .m .al . . .il . . b .P . .i .a .a . .r . . . k . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .222224646524033 Highlands . . . . . . . . . . . . 106 The Caprivi Strip . . . . . . . 266 Southern Lesotho . . . . . 108 Northwestern Understand Lesotho . . . 111 Namibia . . . . . . . . . . . . .269 Survival Guide . . . . . . . . .114 Damaraland . . . . . . . . . . . . 269 SOSSUSVLEI P289 The Kaokoveld . . . . . . . . . 272 MALAWI . . . . . . . . . . . 118 The Skeleton Coast . . . . . 275 Lilongwe . . . . . . . . . . . . . 120 Central Nambia . . . . . . . 277 RADEK BOROVKA/SHUTTERSTOCK © NKLCNCSiaoaekovrphnuironteottnghrh tMagsaeetalkraro no . Mncn .t liMaae .Maa . . .l aaa . . .rlwl . . . . aa . . . .iww . . . . .i . . . .i . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .111111143422234066687 WSLFUSSiüwounsadurhdalvevkt eiRrihosrvii stepvaBztrmel . aan rG .yun C . .N nud . .adai . .dNnm . . . eya . . .oi .m . . . bn . . . . i .ia . . . . b . . . . . i . . . . . .a . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .222322399809712437711 Liwonde . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 144 SOUTH AFRICA . . . . 322 Majete Wildlife Reserve . . 157 Understand Malawi . . .158 Cape Town . . . . . . . . . . .323 MNAATKIGOANDAILK GPAARDKI PPA5N5S Survival Guide . . . . . . . . 162 Western Cape . . . . . . . .355 Contents UNDERSTAND Winelands . . . . . . . . . . . . . 355 Understand Southern Africa The Overberg . . . . . . . . . . 364 Swaziland . . . . . . . . . . . . 544 Today . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 662 Garden Route . . . . . . . . . . 371 Survival Guide . . . . . . . .546 History . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 664 Eastern Cape . . . . . . . . . 382 Culture . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 671 Garden Route East . . . . . . 382 VICTORIA FALLS . . 549 Wildlife . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 679 Sunshine Coast . . . . . . . . 386 Livingstone . . . . . . . . . . . . 554 Music in Southern Africa . . . . . .695 KwaZulu-Natal . . . . . . .404 Victoria Falls . . . . . . . . . . . 559 Environment . . . . . . . . . 701 Durban . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 406 Zululand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 419 ZAMBIA . . . . . . . . . . 566 Free State . . . . . . . . . . .440 Lusaka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .567 Bloemfontein . . . . . . . . . . 441 Eastern Zambia . . . . . . . 577 Gauteng . . . . . . . . . . . . . 449 South Luangwa Johannesburg . . . . . . . . . . 449 National Park . . . . . . . . . . 578 Soweto . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 464 North Luangwa National Park . . . . . . . . . . 584 Pretoria . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 465 Mpumalanga . . . . . . . . . 471 Southern Zambia . . . . . 584 SURVIVAL Nelspruit (Mbombela) . . . 471 Lower Zambezi GUIDE National Park . . . . . . . . . . 585 Kruger National Park . . 476 Western Zambia . . . . . . 590 Limpopo . . . . . . . . . . . . . 481 Kafue National Park . . . . . 590 Directory A–Z . . . . . . . . 714 Polokwane . . . . . . . . . . . . . 481 Transport . . . . . . . . . . . . 727 Northern Zambia . . . . .596 Bela-Bela . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 484 Health . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 736 The Copperbelt . . . . . . . 603 North West Province . . 489 Language . . . . . . . . . . . . 741 Understand Namibia . . 605 Sun City . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 491 Survival Guide . . . . . . . . 610 Northern Cape . . . . . . . 495 Kimberley . . . . . . . . . . . . . 495 ZIMBABWE . . . . . . . . 617 Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park . . . . . . 501 Harare . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 619 Understand Northern Zimbabwe . . . 629 South Africa . . . . . . . . . 505 Kariba Town . . . . . . . . . . . . 629 Survival Guide . . . . . . . . 518 Eastern Highlands . . . .633 Mutare . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 633 SWAZILAND . . . . . . 530 Bvumba Mountains . . . . . 635 Mbabane . . . . . . . . . . . .532 Chimanimani . . . . . . . . . . . 637 Central Swaziland . . . . 534 The Midlands Ezulwini Valley . . . . . . . . . 534 & Southeastern Northwestern Zimbabwe . . . . . . . . . . .640 Swaziland . . . . . . . . . . . . 540 Masvingo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 640 Northeastern Great Zimbabwe . . . . . . . . 640 Swaziland . . . . . . . . . . . . 541 Western Zimbabwe . . . . 643 Hlane Royal Bulawayo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 643 National Park . . . . . . . . . . 541 Understand Mlawula Zimbabwe . . . . . . . . . . . 650 Nature Reserve . . . . . . . . . 542 Survival Guide . . . . . . . .656 Mkhaya Game Reserve . . 543 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 4 Welcome to Southern Africa An astonishingly diverse region fused by its prolific wildlife, breathtaking landscapes and remnants of ancient culture, Southern Africa is Africa at its most memorable. Wildlife Watching Cultural Experiences Southern Africa has some of Africa’s greatest For insight into extraordinary rock art left safari destinations: Kruger, Chobe, Etosha, by ancestors of the San, visit Tsodilo Hills in South Luangwa and the Okavango Delta. Botswana and the extensive rock-art galler- The sheer number of elephants, lions, leop- ies in Namibia, South Africa and Zimbabwe. ards, hyenas, rhinos, buffaloes, antelope and Step back through the centuries in the myriad other species will quickly overwhelm cultural melting pot of Mozambique Island; your camera. Spot them on self-drives, stay in a mud hut in Zimbabwe and watch guided wildlife drives or charter flights…and Shona sculptors at work; prop up the bar at if that’s not up close and personal enough, a shebeen in Soweto; or mingle with Basotho what about the chance to track highly people in Lesotho. Southern Africa has so endangered black rhino…on foot? Or the many different takes on African culture, chance to see the fabled black-maned lions both ancient and contemporary, that it can of the Kalahari, or the desert elephants of be difficult to know where to begin. Namibia? Or explore the Caprivi Strip, one of Africa’s emerging wildlife destinations, Adventure Activities before the rest of the world catches on. Namibia is Southern Africa’s headquarters for adrenaline-pumping fun, but there’s ad- Landscapes venture to be had all over the region. Sail by There’s famous Table Mountain rising high dhow past remote islands off Mozambique’s above Cape Town, that mighty gash hacked jagged coastline, abseil Livingstonia in Ma- out of the earth’s surface at Fish River Can- lawi, and try tackling the ferocious rapids yon, and the desertscapes of the Kalahari, down the Zambezi River or bungeeing from but the lonely rural tracks that take you out a bridge at Victoria Falls. In South Africa, into an otherwise trackless wilderness are the Garden Route with its old-growth forests just as memorable. In Namibia, huge slabs of offers shark-cage diving, surfing, skydiving, flat-topped granite rise from mists of wind- canoeing and kloofing (canyoning). But it’s blown sand and swirling dust. And Zambian in Swakopmund in Namibia where you’ll floodplains are dotted with acacia trees and truly take off, with the stirring juxtaposition flanked by escarpments of dense woodland. of sand dunes and Atlantic Ocean waves Want to see all the landscapes the region has providing a splendid backdrop to so many to offer? Put aside a lifetime. acts of sheer joy. 5 M ARZIA FRANCESCHINI/SHUTTERSTOCK © Why I Love Southern Africa By Anthony Ham, Writer Southern Africa ticks all my Africa boxes at once. This is one of the greatest wildlife shows on earth. I love the sight of lions on a kill or black rhinos communing in secret at an Etosha wa- tering hole. Or the possibility of seeing desert elephants and tracking rhinos on foot amid the stirring beauty of Damaraland. Or the chance to learn the wisdom of the ancients in a San community in the Kalahari. And I love the search for Lady Liuwa as hyenas stream across the plain at Liuwa Plain in Zambia. What’s not to love? For more about our writers, see p768 Above: Skeleton Coast (p275), Namibia Southern Africa Victoria Falls LUANDA The mightiest waterfall DEMOCRATIC on earth (p559) REPUBLIC OF CONGO 10ºS Chobe National Park An astounding array of wildlife (p58) Mwinilunga Solwezi Z ANGOLA a West Lunga m b NP AO wkaavtearnyg poa Draedlitsae ezi Zambezi R for animals (p65) PlaLiniu NwPa iver Kafue Mongu Kafue NP Lake Etosha National Park Itezhi- Wildlife watching Senanga Tezhi doesn’t get any easier (p260) Sioma Ngwezi NPKatima KunenReuRacivaenra OOsshhiakkaantgio ORkuanvBdauwngaobwRativae NrPCaprivi Strip MKVauisclaitlnooeria FLaivllisngstone Khaudom Chobe NP Hwange 20ºS TeCrrSToaokcareesr tlaBe PtaBoayanryk Huab RiverRiver EtNOoOsPtuhaOtavjoitjiwTWPasluraaomttneeGeagrbruboo eoPrtagforknteinGRTHsoiOdllisklDoavealtnagoMMWoaruRenm&iM NaHkxwgaSaaia dnPltiga kPeng aN aNndPsPi Ugab A T L A N T I C National Brandberg NAMIBIA Orapa West Coast (2573m) Ghanzi Central O C E A N HenRtieAs Bay Gobabis Kalahari Serowe Swakopmund WINDHOEK GR Mahalapye Walvis Bay Rehoboth Khutse Tropic of Capricorn Namib- BOTSWANA GR Naukluft Naukluft GABORONE Park (1973m) Sossusvlei NamSossusvleiMaltahMöhaeriental TrKagnaslfargoandtiier KLaonbyaetse City 25ºS The wdournldes’s (opl2d8e9st) sand ib DB(r1u5k8k6amr)os PTsahrakbong River MMmaafbikaethnog Lüderitzunes Aus Keetmanshoop Molopo VryburgPotchefstroom Kolmanskop CFaisnhy oRniv NerP Hotazel Kuruman River Vaal Ai-Ais Upington AF icsilnahs sRstiocivanele rs ( yCpm2ap9n7hy)oonny Richtersveld NP Orange River VaBalLbOosE NMPFONKTiEmIbNerley River Springbok SOUTH AFRICA De Aar Mohkoave 30ºS Aliwal North Middelburg Cederberg Karoo NP Queenstown Wilderness Graaff- Area Beaufort West Reinet Saldanha Grahamstown Cape Town Addo Elephant NP Africa’s most Paarl Worcester George Knysna beautiful city (p323) CAPE TOWN Stellenbosch Jeffrey's Port GCooadp eH oofpe Hermanus MBaoyssel Bay Elizabeth 35ºS 10ºE 15ºE 20ºE 25ºE 0 1000 km 0 600 miles Lake Tanganyika Mbala South Luangwa MLwaekrue NsuNmPbu Nakonde Wild wNaalktiinogn asal fPaarirsk (p578) Quirimbas Archipelago Kawambwa Kasama Chitipa Mozambique at its most Lake TANZANIA enchanting (p224) Bangweulu LuNaonrgthwa NyikLiav iNngPstonia Likoma Island 10ºS ChinMgaonlasaKaNsaPnkMa pika NPKaMNsuzPunzguu alawiNkhaCtóa bBuaèy RRoNveuisamesrsavae RMiveodrçaim Pbraoiaa QPaulimriambas COMOROS Kitwe Kanona M Metangula Archipelago RiveKrabwe KMappoirsihi LCuSaNasosPnuagtcLhwaItLaizOaNGMWAELAWIekaL LicMhainngdaimba Metoro PembaLake Malawi ZAMBIA MOZAMBIQUE A lake that defines SiLNaLvoUPCochSnhigrAiunanKvdaAurKaribMPaoLZaooanlwmsa NebrePziL NaPkBe aCsasahora TeLteiBwloannNdtyPere M(L30ta 0kM1emu Cl)ahnijlewa NNamampuiallao NMacoaazlaa cmobuiqnuter yIs l(apn1d41) 15ºS Nyamapanda Angoche Matusadona Za Livingstone ChizaNrPira HARARE Nyanga mbezi ZIMNKBwPAe BKWweE Marondera NP GorNonPgosa River Quelimane StMepo zbaamckb iinq tuime Ies (lpa2n1d0) Mutare Gweru Chimanimani BMulaatwobayoo Masvingo NM(2P4t 3B6imng)a Beira nel NP Gwanda n Francistown Gonarezhou Save River Bazaruto NP Cha NP Inhassoro PSLheilimekpbwoip-eo River MessKinrNauPgeLrimpopoZBinaaNnvhPei nNeP Vilankulo SomuGtehdreeireanvt aA Zlf cirmiitcyab ’ sa( bpg6rwe4ea0t)est MADAGASCAR Su(nPPieotleorkswbuaOlringfea)nts River BClayndyeo Rn RiNivvereRr InhambanePraiaT droepic of Capricorn qibue Toliara CityPRETORIAMBNAelBspAruNitE BNilaeMmneAaaPchUXaaTiO-Xai Závora mazo Johannesburg Mkhaya GR Inhaca Island M SWAZILAND Ponta D'ouro Piet Retief Kroonstad Bethlehem ZULULAND Mkhaya Game Reserve RiverMLEASSOETRHUOLadPysiemteitrhmaritRzbicuhragrds Bay vieRwa rbel aocpkp rohritnuonsi t(yp t5o43) IO N C D E I AA NN Semonkong Durban Malealea 30ºS Mthatha Port St Johns The Drakensberg ELEVATION The mountains that crown South Africa (p427) 2000m 1000m East 500m London 200m Lesotho Lodges 0 Mix accommodation with culture (p97) 30ºE 35ºE 40ºE 45ºE 35ºS ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 8 Southern Africa’s Top 17 Victoria Falls Okavango Delta 1 The largest, most beautiful and simply 2 The Okavango (p65) in Botswana is an the greatest waterfall in the world. As astonishing, beautiful and wild place. iconic to Africa as ‘Dr Livingstone, I pre- Home to wildlife spectacles of rare power sume’, thunderous Victoria Falls (p549) and drama, the delta changes with the will blow your mind and soak your shirt. It’s seasons as flood waters ebb and flow, cre- the sheer scale of the falls that is its most ating islands, river channels and pathways impressive feature. A million litres of water for animals that move this way and that at a second are funnelled over the 1908m the waters’ behest. No visit to the delta is drop, creating a plume of spray that can be complete without drifting in a traditional seen for kilometres. When you’re in South- mokoro (dugout canoe). Exclusive and ern Africa this really is a sight that you remote lodges are an Okavango special- should move heaven and earth to see. ity, and self-drivers can find outstanding campsites in the heart of the Okavango’s Moremi Game Reserve.

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Most books are stored in the elastic cloud where traffic is expensive. For this reason, we have a limit on daily download.