Southern Africa

771 Pages·2017·46.164 MB·English

by  coll.

P
D
F
Southern
Africa
PDF ebook
Edition 7th Edition
Release Date Sep 2017
Pages 768
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3 easy-to-use How to use this book
sections
Look for these symbols to quickly identify listings:
1 4
Sights Sleeping
r 5
Beaches Eating
PLAN YOUR TRIP
2 6
Activities Drinking
Your planning tool kit C 3
Courses Entertainment
Photos & suggestions to help
you create the perfect trip. T Tours 7 Shopping
z Festivals 8 Information
& Events & Transport
All reviews are ordered in our writers’ preference,
starting with their most preferred option. Additionally:
Eating and Sleeping reviews are ordered by price
range (budget, midrange, top end) and, within these
ranges, by writer preference.
ON THE ROAD
Your complete guide
Expert reviews, easy-to-use
maps & insider tips.
These symbols and abbreviations give vital
information for each listing:
Must-visit recommendation
Sustainable or green recommendation
No payment required
% Telephone number f Ferry
h Opening hours j Tram
SURVIVAL GUIDE p Parking d Train
n Nonsmoking a pt apartments
Your at-a-glance reference
a Air-conditioning d double rooms
Vital practical information i Internet access d m dorm beds
for a smooth trip.
W Wi-fi access q quad rooms
s Swimming pool r rooms
v Vegetarian selection s single rooms
E English-language menu ste suites
c Family-friendly tr triple rooms
# Pet-friendly tw twin rooms
g Bus
For symbols used on maps, see the Map Legend.
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Southern
Africa
Malawi
p118
Zambia
p566
Mozambique
Victoria Falls p169
p549
Zimbabwe
p617
Namibia
p242 Botswana
p42
Swaziland
p530
Lesotho
p97
South Africa
p322
Anthony Ham,
James Bainbridge, Lucy Corne, Mary Fitzpatrick,
Trent Holden, Brendan Sainsbury
P LAN
ON THE ROAD
YOUR TRIP
Welcome to Southern BOTSWANA . . . . . . . . 42 MOZAMBIQUE . . . . 169
Africa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4
Gaborone . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43 Maputo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 172
Southern Africa Map . . . .6
Mokolodi Nature Southern
Southern Africa’s Top 17 . . 8 Reserve . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49 Mozambique . . . . . . . . .182
Need to Know . . . . . . . . . 16 Eastern Botswana . . . . .50 Ponta d’Ouro &
If You Like… . . . . . . . . . . . 18 Francistown . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 Ponta Malongane . . . . . . . 182
Month by Month . . . . . . . 21 Makgadikgadi & Limpopo National Park . . 184
Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . .25 Nxai Pans . . . . . . . . . . . . .54 Central Mozambique . .195
Planning a Safari . . . . . . 31 Makgadikgadi Pans Beira . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 195
Southern Africa National Park . . . . . . . . . . . 55 Northern
at a Glance . . . . . . . . . . .38 Nxai Pans National Park . . 57 Mozambique . . . . . . . . . 206
Chobe National Park . . .58 Nampula . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 206
Okavango Delta . . . . . . .65 Mozambique Island . . . . . 210
Maun . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .65 Pemba . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 219
Moremi Game Reserve . . . 74 Quirimbas Archipelago . . 224
Kalahari . . . . . . . . . . . . . .76 Understand
Mozambique . . . . . . . . .228
Central Kalahari
Game Reserve . . . . . . . . . . . 76 Survival Guide . . . . . . . . 233
Understand Botswana . . 81
MARK READ/LONELY PLANET © SMNLuEoarrSsvteOhirveuTaa . lHs .GtO .eu . .r i . .nd . .e . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1 098077 WNNENNtoaoAionmrrsMttdhhhihbaI-eoB iCrNaeneI akA . n .tN .it . .o .ra .n .a .m .al . . .il . . b .P . .i .a .a . .r . . . k . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .222224646524033
Highlands . . . . . . . . . . . . 106 The Caprivi Strip . . . . . . . 266
Southern Lesotho . . . . . 108
Northwestern
Understand Lesotho . . . 111 Namibia . . . . . . . . . . . . .269
Survival Guide . . . . . . . . .114 Damaraland . . . . . . . . . . . . 269
SOSSUSVLEI P289 The Kaokoveld . . . . . . . . . 272
MALAWI . . . . . . . . . . . 118 The Skeleton Coast . . . . . 275
Lilongwe . . . . . . . . . . . . . 120 Central Nambia . . . . . . . 277
RADEK BOROVKA/SHUTTERSTOCK © NKLCNCSiaoaekovrphnuironteottnghrh tMagsaeetalkraro no . Mncn .t liMaae .Maa . . .l aaa . . .rlwl . . . . aa . . . .iww . . . . .i . . . .i . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .111111143422234066687 WSLFUSSiüwounsadurhdalvevkt eiRrihosrvii stepvaBztrmel . aan rG .yun C . .N nud . .adai . .dNnm . . . eya . . .oi .m . . . bn . . . . i .ia . . . . b . . . . . i . . . . . .a . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .222322399809712437711
Liwonde . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 144
SOUTH AFRICA . . . . 322
Majete Wildlife Reserve . . 157
Understand Malawi . . .158 Cape Town . . . . . . . . . . .323
MNAATKIGOANDAILK GPAARDKI PPA5N5S Survival Guide . . . . . . . . 162 Western Cape . . . . . . . .355
Contents
UNDERSTAND
Winelands . . . . . . . . . . . . . 355 Understand Southern Africa
The Overberg . . . . . . . . . . 364 Swaziland . . . . . . . . . . . . 544 Today . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 662
Garden Route . . . . . . . . . . 371 Survival Guide . . . . . . . .546 History . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 664
Eastern Cape . . . . . . . . . 382 Culture . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 671
Garden Route East . . . . . . 382 VICTORIA FALLS . . 549 Wildlife . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 679
Sunshine Coast . . . . . . . . 386 Livingstone . . . . . . . . . . . . 554 Music in
Southern Africa . . . . . .695
KwaZulu-Natal . . . . . . .404 Victoria Falls . . . . . . . . . . . 559
Environment . . . . . . . . . 701
Durban . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 406
Zululand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 419 ZAMBIA . . . . . . . . . . 566

Free State . . . . . . . . . . .440 Lusaka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .567
Bloemfontein . . . . . . . . . . 441 Eastern Zambia . . . . . . . 577

Gauteng . . . . . . . . . . . . . 449 South Luangwa

Johannesburg . . . . . . . . . . 449 National Park . . . . . . . . . . 578
Soweto . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 464 North Luangwa
National Park . . . . . . . . . . 584
Pretoria . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 465
Mpumalanga . . . . . . . . . 471 Southern Zambia . . . . . 584 SURVIVAL
Nelspruit (Mbombela) . . . 471 Lower Zambezi GUIDE
National Park . . . . . . . . . . 585
Kruger National Park . . 476
Western Zambia . . . . . . 590
Limpopo . . . . . . . . . . . . . 481 Kafue National Park . . . . . 590 Directory A–Z . . . . . . . . 714
Polokwane . . . . . . . . . . . . . 481 Transport . . . . . . . . . . . . 727
Northern Zambia . . . . .596
Bela-Bela . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 484 Health . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 736
The Copperbelt . . . . . . . 603
North West Province . . 489 Language . . . . . . . . . . . . 741
Understand Namibia . . 605
Sun City . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 491
Survival Guide . . . . . . . . 610
Northern Cape . . . . . . . 495
Kimberley . . . . . . . . . . . . . 495
ZIMBABWE . . . . . . . . 617
Kgalagadi
Transfrontier Park . . . . . . 501 Harare . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 619
Understand Northern Zimbabwe . . . 629
South Africa . . . . . . . . . 505 Kariba Town . . . . . . . . . . . . 629
Survival Guide . . . . . . . . 518 Eastern Highlands . . . .633
Mutare . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 633
SWAZILAND . . . . . . 530
Bvumba Mountains . . . . . 635
Mbabane . . . . . . . . . . . .532 Chimanimani . . . . . . . . . . . 637
Central Swaziland . . . . 534 The Midlands
Ezulwini Valley . . . . . . . . . 534 & Southeastern
Northwestern Zimbabwe . . . . . . . . . . .640
Swaziland . . . . . . . . . . . . 540 Masvingo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 640
Northeastern Great Zimbabwe . . . . . . . . 640
Swaziland . . . . . . . . . . . . 541
Western Zimbabwe . . . . 643
Hlane Royal
Bulawayo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 643
National Park . . . . . . . . . . 541
Understand
Mlawula
Zimbabwe . . . . . . . . . . . 650
Nature Reserve . . . . . . . . . 542
Survival Guide . . . . . . . .656
Mkhaya Game Reserve . . 543
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
4
Welcome to
Southern Africa
An astonishingly diverse region fused
by its prolific wildlife, breathtaking
landscapes and remnants of ancient
culture, Southern Africa is Africa at its
most memorable.
Wildlife Watching Cultural Experiences
Southern Africa has some of Africa’s greatest For insight into extraordinary rock art left
safari destinations: Kruger, Chobe, Etosha, by ancestors of the San, visit Tsodilo Hills in
South Luangwa and the Okavango Delta. Botswana and the extensive rock-art galler-
The sheer number of elephants, lions, leop- ies in Namibia, South Africa and Zimbabwe.
ards, hyenas, rhinos, buffaloes, antelope and Step back through the centuries in the
myriad other species will quickly overwhelm cultural melting pot of Mozambique Island;
your camera. Spot them on self-drives, stay in a mud hut in Zimbabwe and watch
guided wildlife drives or charter flights…and Shona sculptors at work; prop up the bar at
if that’s not up close and personal enough, a shebeen in Soweto; or mingle with Basotho
what about the chance to track highly people in Lesotho. Southern Africa has so
endangered black rhino…on foot? Or the many different takes on African culture,
chance to see the fabled black-maned lions both ancient and contemporary, that it can
of the Kalahari, or the desert elephants of be difficult to know where to begin.
Namibia? Or explore the Caprivi Strip, one
of Africa’s emerging wildlife destinations, Adventure Activities
before the rest of the world catches on. Namibia is Southern Africa’s headquarters
for adrenaline-pumping fun, but there’s ad-
Landscapes
venture to be had all over the region. Sail by
There’s famous Table Mountain rising high dhow past remote islands off Mozambique’s
above Cape Town, that mighty gash hacked jagged coastline, abseil Livingstonia in Ma-
out of the earth’s surface at Fish River Can- lawi, and try tackling the ferocious rapids
yon, and the desertscapes of the Kalahari, down the Zambezi River or bungeeing from
but the lonely rural tracks that take you out a bridge at Victoria Falls. In South Africa,
into an otherwise trackless wilderness are the Garden Route with its old-growth forests
just as memorable. In Namibia, huge slabs of offers shark-cage diving, surfing, skydiving,
flat-topped granite rise from mists of wind- canoeing and kloofing (canyoning). But it’s
blown sand and swirling dust. And Zambian in Swakopmund in Namibia where you’ll
floodplains are dotted with acacia trees and truly take off, with the stirring juxtaposition
flanked by escarpments of dense woodland. of sand dunes and Atlantic Ocean waves
Want to see all the landscapes the region has providing a splendid backdrop to so many
to offer? Put aside a lifetime. acts of sheer joy.
5
M
ARZIA FRANCESCHINI/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Why I Love Southern Africa
By Anthony Ham, Writer
Southern Africa ticks all my Africa boxes at once. This is one of the greatest wildlife shows on
earth. I love the sight of lions on a kill or black rhinos communing in secret at an Etosha wa-
tering hole. Or the possibility of seeing desert elephants and tracking rhinos on foot amid the
stirring beauty of Damaraland. Or the chance to learn the wisdom of the ancients in a San
community in the Kalahari. And I love the search for Lady Liuwa as hyenas stream across the
plain at Liuwa Plain in Zambia. What’s not to love?
For more about our writers, see p768
Above: Skeleton Coast (p275), Namibia
Southern Africa
Victoria Falls
LUANDA The mightiest waterfall DEMOCRATIC
on earth (p559) REPUBLIC OF
CONGO
10ºS
Chobe National Park
An astounding array
of wildlife (p58) Mwinilunga
Solwezi
Z
ANGOLA a West Lunga
m
b NP
AO wkaavtearnyg poa Draedlitsae ezi Zambezi
R
for animals (p65) PlaLiniu NwPa iver Kafue
Mongu Kafue NP
Lake
Etosha National Park
Itezhi-
Wildlife watching Senanga Tezhi
doesn’t get any easier (p260) Sioma
Ngwezi NPKatima
KunenReuRacivaenra OOsshhiakkaantgio ORkuanvBdauwngaobwRativae NrPCaprivi Strip MKVauisclaitlnooeria FLaivllisngstone
Khaudom Chobe NP Hwange
20ºS TeCrrSToaokcareesr tlaBe PtaBoayanryk Huab RiverRiver EtNOoOsPtuhaOtavjoitjiwTWPasluraaomttneeGeagrbruboo eoPrtagforknteinGRTHsoiOdllisklDoavealtnagoMMWoaruRenm&iM NaHkxwgaSaaia dnPltiga kPeng aN aNndPsPi
Ugab
A T L A N T I C National Brandberg NAMIBIA Orapa
West Coast (2573m) Ghanzi Central
O C E A N HenRtieAs Bay Gobabis Kalahari Serowe
Swakopmund WINDHOEK GR Mahalapye
Walvis Bay Rehoboth Khutse
Tropic of Capricorn Namib- BOTSWANA GR
Naukluft Naukluft GABORONE
Park (1973m)
Sossusvlei NamSossusvleiMaltahMöhaeriental TrKagnaslfargoandtiier KLaonbyaetse City
25ºS The wdournldes’s (opl2d8e9st) sand ib DB(r1u5k8k6amr)os PTsahrakbong River MMmaafbikaethnog
Lüderitzunes Aus Keetmanshoop Molopo VryburgPotchefstroom
Kolmanskop CFaisnhy oRniv NerP Hotazel Kuruman River
Vaal
Ai-Ais Upington
AF icsilnahs sRstiocivanele rs ( yCpm2ap9n7hy)oonny Richtersveld NP Orange River VaBalLbOosE NMPFONKTiEmIbNerley River
Springbok SOUTH AFRICA De Aar Mohkoave
30ºS Aliwal North
Middelburg
Cederberg Karoo NP Queenstown
Wilderness Graaff-
Area Beaufort West Reinet
Saldanha Grahamstown
Cape Town Addo Elephant NP
Africa’s most Paarl Worcester George Knysna
beautiful city (p323) CAPE TOWN Stellenbosch Jeffrey's Port
GCooadp eH oofpe Hermanus MBaoyssel Bay Elizabeth
35ºS 10ºE 15ºE 20ºE 25ºE
0 1000 km
0 600 miles
Lake Tanganyika
Mbala South Luangwa
MLwaekrue NsuNmPbu Nakonde Wild wNaalktiinogn asal fPaarirsk (p578) Quirimbas Archipelago
Kawambwa Kasama Chitipa Mozambique at its most
Lake TANZANIA enchanting (p224)
Bangweulu LuNaonrgthwa NyikLiav iNngPstonia Likoma Island 10ºS
ChinMgaonlasaKaNsaPnkMa pika NPKaMNsuzPunzguu alawiNkhaCtóa bBuaèy RRoNveuisamesrsavae RMiveodrçaim Pbraoiaa QPaulimriambas COMOROS
Kitwe Kanona M Metangula Archipelago
RiveKrabwe KMappoirsihi LCuSaNasosPnuagtcLhwaItLaizOaNGMWAELAWIekaL LicMhainngdaimba Metoro PembaLake Malawi
ZAMBIA MOZAMBIQUE A lake that defines
SiLNaLvoUPCochSnhigrAiunanKvdaAurKaribMPaoLZaooanlwmsa NebrePziL NaPkBe aCsasahora TeLteiBwloannNdtyPere M(L30ta 0kM1emu Cl)ahnijlewa NNamampuiallao NMacoaazlaa cmobuiqnuter yIs l(apn1d41) 15ºS
Nyamapanda Angoche
Matusadona Za
Livingstone ChizaNrPira HARARE Nyanga mbezi
ZIMNKBwPAe BKWweE Marondera NP GorNonPgosa River Quelimane StMepo zbaamckb iinq tuime Ies (lpa2n1d0)
Mutare
Gweru Chimanimani
BMulaatwobayoo Masvingo NM(2P4t 3B6imng)a Beira nel
NP Gwanda n
Francistown Gonarezhou Save River Bazaruto NP Cha
NP Inhassoro
PSLheilimekpbwoip-eo River MessKinrNauPgeLrimpopoZBinaaNnvhPei nNeP Vilankulo SomuGtehdreeireanvt aA Zlf cirmiitcyab ’ sa( bpg6rwe4ea0t)est MADAGASCAR
Su(nPPieotleorkswbuaOlringfea)nts River BClayndyeo Rn RiNivvereRr InhambanePraiaT droepic of Capricorn qibue Toliara
CityPRETORIAMBNAelBspAruNitE BNilaeMmneAaaPchUXaaTiO-Xai Závora mazo
Johannesburg Mkhaya GR Inhaca Island M
SWAZILAND Ponta D'ouro
Piet Retief
Kroonstad
Bethlehem ZULULAND
Mkhaya Game Reserve
RiverMLEASSOETRHUOLadPysiemteitrhmaritRzbicuhragrds Bay vieRwa rbel aocpkp rohritnuonsi t(yp t5o43) IO N C D E I AA NN
Semonkong
Durban
Malealea
30ºS
Mthatha Port St Johns The Drakensberg ELEVATION
The mountains that
crown South Africa (p427) 2000m
1000m
East 500m
London
200m
Lesotho Lodges 0
Mix accommodation
with culture (p97)
30ºE 35ºE 40ºE 45ºE 35ºS
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
8
Southern
Africa’s
Top
17
Victoria Falls Okavango Delta
1 The largest, most beautiful and simply 2 The Okavango (p65) in Botswana is an
the greatest waterfall in the world. As astonishing, beautiful and wild place.
iconic to Africa as ‘Dr Livingstone, I pre- Home to wildlife spectacles of rare power
sume’, thunderous Victoria Falls (p549) and drama, the delta changes with the
will blow your mind and soak your shirt. It’s seasons as flood waters ebb and flow, cre-
the sheer scale of the falls that is its most ating islands, river channels and pathways
impressive feature. A million litres of water for animals that move this way and that at
a second are funnelled over the 1908m the waters’ behest. No visit to the delta is
drop, creating a plume of spray that can be complete without drifting in a traditional
seen for kilometres. When you’re in South- mokoro (dugout canoe). Exclusive and
ern Africa this really is a sight that you remote lodges are an Okavango special-
should move heaven and earth to see. ity, and self-drivers can find outstanding
campsites in the heart of the Okavango’s
Moremi Game Reserve.