South American Explorer Number 65

64 Pages·2001·17.3 MB·English

by  The South American Explorers Club

SOWT M E R I C AN
ULuuL
AUTUMN 2001 VOlUMt ,v
A Parisian. In Brazil
Trespassing on B Dorado
Hope Under the Aquaduet
Robbery,, Amazon Style
Sebastian Snow
S O U TH
A M E R I C AN
EXPLORERS
South American Explorers and appreciatifc for the lub main- To join the SAE:
SAE is a 501(c)(3) non welfare of enda^Bered. of Contact us at our U.S.
profit organization. With peoples, wi eological headquarters, use the order
bhouses in Cusco and protection, an» or member form on page 63, or sign up
a, Peru and Quito, ness conservation use and purchase. at one of the clubhouses.
Ecuador, and U.S. headquar • CollectingJnfiJoJptio) Lending Library: There is Website:
ters in Ithaca, New York, voluntgg-aS^Ure: aT$extensive library of both http://www. saexplorers.org
SAE collects and makes oppog|friities 'glish and Spanish books U.S. Headquarters
available to its members up- • Fosterifig ties betw^h non at Clubhouses in Quito, 126 Indian Creek Road,
to-date, reliable information profit organizations, Lima, and Cusco. Ithaca, NY 14850 USA
about Central and South N GO s^£on?>ervation Merchandise for sale: Phone: [phone]
America. groups, aSj other socially Books, maps, tapes, T-shirts Fax: [phone]
Membership is US $50 and environmentally and other items are on sale E-mail:
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Residents outside the U.S. the Club's catalog.
add US $10 (US $7 for South American Explorer: Trip planning: Members Quito Clubhouse
Canada) for postage. Those A 64-page quarterly can call upon the SAE for Jorge Washington 311,
wishing to sign up in the magazine with articles on help and trip planning Quito, Ecuador
United Kingdom can join adventure travel, scientific information. Phone/fax: [phone]
through Bradt Publications discovery, history, archaeol Discounts: Members Member e-mail:
(Please allow 4-6 weeks to ogy, mountaineering, native receive discounts from [email protected]
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19 High Street, Chalfont St. pology, geology, and more. hotels and language subject field)
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Membership Services
Info@bradt- include: Lima Clubhouse
travelguides.com Knowledgeable Staff: Our Additional Member Hv. Republica de Portugal 146,
friendly staff and volunteers Services at Quito, Lima, Brena,
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information among members seeking travel Book Exchange Library, [email protected]
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its magazine, the South provide specialized language tapes. Please call Cusco, Peru
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activities. Darien Gap, visiting the
• Awakening greater interest Galapagos, etc.
SOUTH AMERICAN EXPLORER
SOUTH AMERICAN
EXPLORER
Trespassing on
EDITOR
Don Montague El Dorado p. 14
ASSOCIATE EDITOR Seon Flaherty
Rebecca Devaney
CONTRIBUTING EDITORS
Daniel Buck
Dominic Hamilton
Christopher Holmes
Federico B. Kirbus
Anne Meadows Sebastian Snow,
D. Bruce Means • 1929-2001, p. 33
Maralyn Polak
Robbery Amazon e
DESIGN DIRECTOR Loren McInty
Lou Robinson Style, p. 29 •
MANAGER Gregory Wyels
Gus Cam
A Parisian in Brazil,
PROJECT COORDINATOR .. *.
Susan McCutcheon p. 6 •
SRLES AND MARKETING
fldele Toussaint-Somson
Vicky Williamson
MARKETING ASSOCIATE
Kristina Anderson
Hope Under the
LIMA CLUBHOUSE
MANAGER Aqueduct,
Simon Atkinson
p. 25
QUITO CLUBHOUSE
Shirley Moscow
MANAGER
Cynthia Smith
ASSISTANT MANAGER
Erin Fair
CUSCO CLUBHOUSE
MANAGER
Fiona Cameron
EVR PROJECT MANAGER
Melani Ebertz
RECORDS SUPERVISOR
W/O PORTFOLIO
Craig Sorensen
ADVISORS
Hilary Bradt
Jean Brown
Tim Cahill
Nelson Carrasco
John W. Davidge 111
Eleanor Griffis de Zufiiga
Paolo Greer Ace of Clubs 5
John Hemming
Ad Index 36
Geoffrey Hird
Leighton Klein The South American Explorer is the quarterly journal of the South Ameri Ask the Doctor 45
Forest Leighty can Explorers Club, a nonprofit 501(c)(3) corporation located at 126 In Book Reviews 51
dian Creek Road, Ithaca, NY 14850, telephone [phone]. A one-
Loren Mclntyre Classifieds 56
year subscription is U.S. $22.00, additional $10.00 ($7.00 for Canada)
Joanne Omang
for overseas postage. No part of this publication may be reproduced with Club News 47
Rob Rachowiecki
out prior written consent of the publisher. All statements in articles and Corner Books 58
Maruja Reyes
advertisements are those of the authors and advertisers and do not neces
David Smith sarily represent the views of the South American Explorers or the South Cyberpage 54
Virginia Smith American Explorer Magazine. Copyright © 2001. All Rights reserved. Letters 4
Gerald Starbuck Lima, Peru Clubhouse: Casilla 3714, Lima 100, Peru (street address: Maps 61
Humberto Valdivia Avenida Republica de Portugal 146, Breha, Lima), telephone (511)
News Shorts 43
MEDiCAtADVISORS 425-0142. Quito, Ecuador Clubhouse: Apartado 17-21 -431, Eloy Alfaro,
Dr. Andrew Schechtman Quito, Ecuador, (street address: Jorge Washington 311 y L. Plaza, Quito), South American Explorers 52
Christine Ross telephone [phone]. Cusco, Peru Clubhouse: Apartado 500, Cusco, Tips and Notes 49
Peru (street address: 930 Avenida del Sol, Cusco), telephone [phone]-
LEGAL ADVISOR 102. Reprints of articles are available from the Ithaca office. Unsolicited
J. Michael Dowling
articles must include a self-addressed, stamped envelope; photographs Cower: Fidel Peireira with his eleventh
YOUTH ADVISORS should be insured or registered. Neither the South American Explorers
wife. For more information, see
Zachary James Montague nor the South American Explorer Magazine is responsible for material
lost or damaged in the mail. Website: http://www.saexplorers.org. Sebastian Snow Appreciation, page 35.
NUMBER 65, AUTUMN 2001
worn them day and night, even in the Its Wrong
Amazon River (not noted for its rough
seas), and could not remember where
Dear Editor
they'd been. Since instructions say not to
use the patch more than three days, they Congratulations on your marvellous
are careful to renew them! A friend wore quarterly. It is distinct, with a humour
a pair on a transatlantic voyage and and intelligence so unusual and confident,
cannot to this day remember she made that you deserve endless plaudits. It was
the voyage. The active ingredient is a delight to read—as have your previous
scopolamine, which is usually prescribed publications that I have received, since I
for "twilight sleep" during childbirth so joined you—fairly recently.
that women could not recall pain and I am writing you from Sydney,
consequently harbor resentments toward Australia, where I, a Canadian, currently
the child. Mobsters were said to have live. However I am at this time going
used it as "truth serum" when torturing down the Pacific Rim of the Americas in a
their victims. Since scopolamine also 1972 VW Beetle. From Homer, Alaska, to
opens one's iris it increases possibility Of Ushuaia, at the southern tip of South
Cuy Cuisine UV light damage to the retina, especially America. I have reached SE Mexico, have
under a tropical sun. An enlarged pupil taken a short time off, but am about to re
also inhibits properly focusing a camera start. Late September. I speak Spanish,
Esteemed Presiding Officer, if the patch is put on the same side of the have lived when very young in Chile and
Order of the Cuy, head as the viewing eye. Scopolamine Peru. Am writing about my trip, down the
does work well to prevent nausea and Pacific Rim of the Americas.
If author Elizabeth Stamford (SAE,
help you forget you were seasick. I Being a former "professor" of cultural
Spring 2001) is "faintly nauseated" on
suggest that sensitive souls use an auto- matters in Canadian universities, and a
(showing down on a grilled specimen of
focusing camera to bring back images director in Australia of arts training
our organization's symbol, how do you
reminding them where they have been. centres, I was surprised in reading your
suppose members of our illustrious order
Loren Mclntyre delightfully distinct articles that there
feel, if not greatly nauseated?
were "grammatical" mistakes—no big
No longer do I automatically whip out
Contemplating deal—in Gunnar Englom's interesting
my well-worn membership card and
piece, [/am happy to edit for you should
fumble with the handshake and secret
His 'Novel' you wish]: He has difficulty with: "it's"
sign when I meet anyone whilst I'm
which is an abbreviation for "it is" and
trudging about, seeking edible roots. For
"its" the possessive.
now it would seem edible roots are out
Dear SAE:
p20, column 2, para l.line 4—"it's" should
and edible Cuy is in. This cheeky little
Hi. I realize that this is a long shot, but read "its"
rodent deserves our protection, not
I'm writing a novel involving indigenous, para 2, line 2—"it's" should read "its"
skewering for the grill!
rarely contacted people of the lowland p21, column 1, four instances: column 1,
Would the DAR (Daughters of the
rainforest of Peru, the Yura in particular, para 2, twice: line 4 & 7
American Revolution) follow up its
and am having trouble finding reference para 3, once: line 27
membership package with a recipe for
material. Any help at all would be greatly para 4, line 10
grilling an American eagle over a spit,
appreciated. then in column 2 para 2 line 11
concluding with "bon appetit"?
William L. Jones then "Congratulations" in para 2, para 4,
Doubtful in Bethesda, MD,
Canfield, Ohio line 8, you got it right!
Thos. Spande, charter member, Order of
Would you be interested in the account
the Cuy.
Find the Friar I attach on visiting Ecuador, with a
Canadian photographer?
Re: "Ask the
Congratulations on you publication. It
Dear SAE:
is distinct, witty, unusual, informative
Doctor" in Vo. 63
I am a Salesian Co. Operator from and helpful.
Ireland. I wish to contact Fr. John Porter.
Dear SAE: His address is Don Bosco College—Box Yours sincerely
2303, Quito, Ecuador-S.A. He is a native Lionel H. Lawrence
I'm not a doctor and no one asked me
of Derry, Ireland, but I met him in Belfast.
but SAE readers should be aware of side
I would really appreciate your help in Its Still Wrong
effects from taking Transderm Scop
trying to locate him as I have written a
"behind the ear" medicine for motion
few times but unfortunately have not
sickness. As the company literature says, Dear Editor,
heard anything back.
the drug affects memory. And how! I've
Sincerely, As always, I enjoy reading the South
known cruise passengers who've stepped
Nancy Doherty American Explorer. I am struck, however,
off the plane with the patches in place,
Nancydoherty2001 <®yahoo.co.uk by the catastrophe of apostrophes in
SOUTH AMERICAN EXPLORER
volume 64. Your it's and its give me fits First a little history. Why a Haiku a Haiku contest no less, confident that
and snits! I refer you to the writers' bible, contest in the first place? As is so often few could match his amorous rhymes.
E.B.White's The Elements of Style, page 1: the case, a member's to blame. Let's And us? We caved in.
"A common error is to write it's for its, or
call him 'Juan Doe.' For a long time,
vice versa. The first is a contraction, We'll get to the rules for entering
months actually, Juan called on the
meaning "it is." The second is a the contest shortly but first we'd like
phone to say we should publish a
possessive. 'It's a wise dog that scratches to ask a small favor. Since it's quite
Haiku love poem extolling his beauti
its own fleas.'" probable that the Haiku contest will
ful wife (aka 'Juanita Doe'). Unfortu
Maybe your proofreader needs a flea become an annual event, we're asking
nately, Juan spoke with a heavy accent
collar.
all entrants to answer a simple mul
Love eternally, that made him extremely difficult to
tiple-choice question. Note: there is
Martha Egan understand and every time he said,
no right or wrong answer. All re
Paehamama Santa Fe, NM 'Haiku,' our editor responded with,
sponses are equally valid. Your answer,
'Gesundheit!' Undismayed, Juan
we hope, will allow our analysts to
switched to writing letters. Two or
create a poet profile. This info coupled
three times a week, an unsolicited
with census data will permit us to lo
7nv Haiku poem would arrive in the mail.
cate the whereabouts of suspected
Here's a typical example:
concentrations of poets ("poet pock
Juanita, ripe plum, ets'- if you will) to let them know
about upcoming contests.
Frogs jump down the riverbank
Question: When you see the word
Splash! I love Juan'ta.
'Haiku,' you think:
Now observe, Juan uses the correct
a) 'It doesn't rhyme with any
Haiku 5 syllables for the first line,
thing. Its like 'silver' or 'orange' —
seven syllables for the second, and
poetically inert.
again 5 syllables for the last line. Get
it? b) '1 wonder what she looks like
naked.'
Da Da Da Da Da
'Ah, so, the ancient Japanese poetry
Da Da Da Da Da Da Da
form that challenges the poet to cap
Da Da Da Da Da ture the intangible spirit of nature and
create a singular representative image
Need we say Juan is no Haiku mas
of a thought, an emotion, or an inspi
ter? Note the awkward treatment of
ration.'
Juanita in the last line. Sloppy verse.
SAE's First Annual Haiku Please mail in your response with
Still, Juan's poetry inspired our edi
Contest your Haiku.
tor, Don Montague, to a brief outburst
To celebrate the 65th issue of the of rhetoric. His short but memorable Now to the rules:
South American Explorer, we are speech went a little like this: "Gather
The entrant must be a member of
launching the First Annual SAE Haiku around, South American Explorers,
South American Explorers, be a rela
Contest. This competition harks back young and old, man and woman,
tive of a South American Explorer
to a venerable tradition of SAE con gather around. This club upholds cer
member, or have heard of someone
tests, emulated worldwide but never tain principles, and the most impor
who thought about becoming a South
equaled . tant of these is that the member al
American Explorer member. If none of
ways comes first. Always! Therefore;
Our older members may recall the the above, speaking in tongues will do
if Juan Doe desires to be published in
inimitable "Find the Stone" contest if it rhymes.
our magazine by Dios, he'll be pub
(Issue 17, May 1988), or the contro
lished. Inform Juan his classified ad It is not allowed for the submitted
versial "Sez Who" contest (Issue 18,
will cost $10 for the first 25 words verse to have been previously pub
August 1988). It's not likely recent
and $.50 cents for each additional lished, cited, or read in a public
members will know of this
word." And with that, Don sat down. venue.
longstanding custom. No matter. The
First Annual SAE Haiku Contest Juan did not take this news well. • Null where void.
promises to be every bit as good if not "Pay to be published?" he sniffed.
better than our famous contests of old. "No!" Instead, he demanded a contest,
Continued on page 13.
NUMBER 65, AUTUMN 2001
teMPalt
•».«•.
,-^-HM^-\«/V-«*
Sugar Loa/. Church "de Gloria"
Emperor's Palace at San Christovas
SOUTH AMERICAN EXPLORER
A Parisian in
B r a z il : Selections
Adele Toussaint-Samson
In the middle of the nine
teenth century, Adele
Toussaint-Samson, a high
spirited and enterprising
young Parisian, traveled
with her husband from
France to Brazil, seeking
to improve their family
fortunes.
L
ike some other foreigner visitors to Latin America,
she wrote about her experiences, producing one of
the best, although long-forgotten, nineteenth-century
travel narratives. Adele Toussaint-Samson's careful account
of her more than decade-long stay in Brazil remains a valu
able source of insights and information, especially on sla
very and gender relations, in that overwhelmingly rural,
highly stratified South American society of the 1850s. —
June E. Hahner
The Departure
We had an uncle in America, and not of America, which
is quite a different thing; nevertheless, this good uncle hav
ing made quite a nice fortune in Brazil, we likewise got the
My Negress "Romana" idea of trying our fortunes. In ten years, we were told, we
NUMBER 65, AUTUMN 2001
ought to be rich. Ten years of exile, Arrival in
that certainly was something; but the
country was so beautiful, and we
Brazil
would return so young still.
There were so many hesitations on
my part, many tears shed; then, finally, At last, here is Brazil, which
we formed our resolution, and after appears with its bouquets of
having embraced parents and friends, banana-trees and palm-trees.
we got into the train. We were bound One begins to distinguish the
for Havre, where we were to embark chain of mountains called the
for South America. Giant, which represents well
When we were near arriving at the enough in effect a man of co
Havre station, I perceived in the dis lossal stature stretched at full
tance all those tall masts, pressed one length, and whose profile re
against the other, which seemed a for sembles that of Louis XVI. That
est upon the sea. My heart stood still, one which is called the Pao
and I understood by how many ties d'assucar (Sugar-load) is the
the father-land was dear to me. mountain, which forms the foot
However, the die had been cast: we of the Giant. It lies at the en
must go to the end. trance of the by of Rio Janeiro.
Soon the ship enters the port,
The Voyage having at its right the fortress
of Santa Cruz, and at its left the
fortress of Sage [Lage], where
Now, I think I must give you some it is hailed as it passes; if it de
advice, ladies: if ever you travel alone, lays in stopping, a cannon-shot
be on board the most reserved pos warns it not to continue its
sible; for there is no little provincial route. It then hoists its flag.
town, no janitors closet even, where "Where does she come from?"
, . , • i TT Mulatress of the "Faeenda it asked. "How many days at
there is as much gossip as here. It you J ° sea?"" What is her name and that of her captain?" "Are
have, for travelling companions, English people, do not there any ill on board?" After having satisfactorily answered
bow to them, above all, and do not even notice them the all these questions, she enters the bay and throws anchor
first eight days. The Englishmen wishes to know to whom near a fort called Villa-Gaghao [Villegaignon].
he bows to, and gives himself the trouble of studying a
little his people before risking the least politeness. Do you
Yellow Fever
think he is very much in the wrong? But from the moment
he has judged you worthy of his society, the Englishman
becomes the most amiable travelling companion, obliging
My husband and I became ill with yellow fever, which
without being gallant, polished without flattery, and al dealt harshly with Brazil, for the first time, the year of our
ways a perfect gentleman in his relations with women. arrival. Until then the country had been very healthy. When
Unfortunately, it is not always so with our own compa this dreadful disease fell upon Rio Janeiro, it attacked first
triots while travelling, who, in the majority, do not always of all the foreigners, then the negroes, then the poor class,
show themselves very proper, presently showing gallantry, and finally the comfortable Brazilian themselves, but in
bordering upon silliness, to young and pretty women; by small numbers. The mortality was large in the city, and
and by, rudeness, wellnigh vulgarity, towards old or ugly the cemeteries so filled, that one could no longer bury the
women; they do not know whether to compromise a dead. No more festivals, no more disturbance, no more
woman, or turn her into ridicule. Mistrust, above all things, joy: everywhere mourning.
ladies, the officers on deck. Nothing equals the conceited- The theatres were closed; large processions passed
ness of these gentlemen; they must at each passage in through the city every day, praying to God for the end of
scribe a fresh conquest on their list. As the attentions, the the epidemic. At the head of the procession young girls
welfare, and thousand details of material existence, de walked dressed in white. When arriving at a public place,
pend upon them in some way or another, there are no end a bench would immediately be brought in the centre of
of provocations and flirtations, which the lady passengers the place, and upon this bench would step one of the young
permit in their favor. ladies, who would recite aloud the prayer, which all would
8 SOUTH AMERICAN EXPLORER
say after her. "Senhor, Luiz has been bitten by
IZcuafror
Nothing more doleful than these lita a serpent while cutting sugar-cane,
nies, sung monotonously and alone, and is vomiting blood."
breaking from time to time the dark si "Has the sorcerer been called?"
lence which hovered over the city. Every "Yes, senhor. Here he comes."
Sltxclw 6ckoo\
morning we would hear of the death of In effect, we soon saw a negro of
some compatriot of ours. Of the twenty- very high stature appear, with
<XM C\\mp\iAk
eight passengers who had made the voy frizzled white hair, who, it was said,
age with us, seventeen had already suc was more than ninety years old, but
SAFARI IS PROUP TO OFFER B>OTH E-NTRY
cumbed when I first began to deal this who, however, still held himself
ANP APVANCEP LCV'CL (^LACIER 3cHOOLS
fever, of which I immediately recognized firmly and straight. He was draped
ON CoTOPAXI AMD CTAYAM&E., FlNlSHlNC
the symptoms... in a striped covering, carried a sort
_/^y Wirt) AN ASCENT ATTEMPT
The yellow fever is now acclimatized of hanging wallet at his side, and
/. \ TO PPRRAACCT ICE. THE SlClLLS
in Brazil, as the cholera is in our coun held a stick in his hand. His face
YOU UAVC LEARNED
tries. It appears from time to time in the was grave and pensive.
great heat, but no longer shows itself so He went straight to the infirmary,
deadly as in the first year, because one where the sick negro had been put, Amazon JJuiifa
knows how to treat it. closeted himself with him, made
One must, in the tropical countries, him drink a preparation of herbs of
ALONC THE IZIVER SHIRIPUNO. WE OFFER
observe more moderation than anywhere which he alone had the secret, and
THE VERY E>EST IN JUNCLE AoVe.HTUR.iLi)
else. Those who, having the custom of affirmed that he would cure the
CAMPINC AT NlCHT t «^/ )
wine and liquors, wish to continue in negro, on the condition, neverthe
AHP TRAVELLING -W ~~""--— )
Brazil the same manner of living, don't less, that no woman must be al
IN DuCOUT CANOES ^ ^^ y
do so for long. lowed to enter the room of him
OR UllClNC
Do as the natives do: drink water. Be whom he nursed, for seven days. \Vt ALWAYS HAVE A &IUNCUAL CUIPE
side, the water is so good in Rio that this Without this, he would not be re QxPEPITIONS PEPARTlNC EVERY WEElC
beverage is nearly a treat. Also, does the sponsible for him, he said; there
Brazilian drink his four or five glasses in fore, one was careful to send the Ykz £AUPA£O$
an evening, it is so limpid, so perfumed, negro's food only by men. The pre
hoA COMVAMA
so light, this water of the Caioca, which scriptions of the sorcerer were car
winds through white pebbles, across aro ried out to the letter, and the negro
matic plants, and comes to you fresh and was completely cured. Thereupon \VlTU EXPERIENCE RUNNlNC &0ATS IN THE
full of odors, which one ever remembers, I wished to talk with the old sor f/ISL'AN PS ANP EXTENSIVE
and which the Brazilian has a right to say, cerer; and after having given him a PATA FILES ON THE
"When one has drunk that water, one can few pennies for coffee and sugar, I }fc-~&OATS IN OPERATION
drink no other." asked him what were the plants he "(I/WE ARE. IN A UNIOUE
had made use of to cure the sting of POSITION TO BE ABLE TO HELP
the jararaca, one of the post dan YOU v SELECT THE £>EST AVAILABLE
The Sorcerer
gerous serpents of Brazil. OPTION FOR YOUR CRUISE IN THE IsLANPS
"It is my secret," he said. An<d& £xoeM\om
One of the strangest types on the plan "Why don't you give it to the oth
tation, assuredly, was the feitictiro (sor ers?" -r ' \*»V
cerer). This is how I made his acquain "I nurse them when they are ill: LLAMA TREICICINC -"/^~S\/Z/
tance: I was sitting one morning in the it is enough." 4x4 TRANSPORT " ^ \ y ^ Xy
veranda, lost in that region of thoughts "But when you die?" PAY TOURS \Q
which vast horizons plunge you into, "All the worse for them. If they JJIICINC & TutuCiCiNc jT\
when I saw returning from the wood one were good to me, I would gladly tell ALPINE FOUNTAIN CLIMBINC /
of the wagons which usually did not come them the secrets I know; but they IIORSE-IZIPINC a FOUNTAIN £>IICINC
back until the decline of day. I was yet
shun me, and teach their children
more surprised that it had for its only load
to be afraid of me. I will take my Pasaje Roca 630 y Amazonas
two negroes, one of whom was an over
secrets with me..." Quito, Ecuador
seer. The old negro had been right: in USA & Canada : 1 800 434 8182
Tel: [phone] / 234 799
"O Ventura?" immediately called our return for his science he reaped only
Fax : [phone]
host to him, "why do you return with ingratitude and abandonment; all Email: [email protected]
Luiz?" shunned him, in almost crossing http://-www.safari.com.ec
IISIWSirilSITJISiHI= iliiiillllillllii
N U M B ER 6 5, A U T U MN 2001
themselves, and the little mulattoes wish to be proprietors. If, therefore, never be surprised at anything what
pressed against each other when he slavery had been suddenly abolished, ever. When I would return from
passed, whispering in each other's farming would have stopped, and France with toilets of the latest fash
ears, "Toma sentido? Ojeiticeiro!" (Take famine would have arisen. One had ion, I noticed the ladies looked at me
care: there goes the sorcerer!)... to gradually prepare the country and secretly, by stealth, so as to study with
He has died, without all doubt the minds for this grand revolution. out appearing to do so the cut of my
alone, in a corner of the forest, taking This was what Dom Pedro II did; and clothes, which not one of them would
with him all the science so laboriously when, according to him, the hour had have acknowledged seeing for the first
gathered in eighty-six years of exist come, he declared free each slave's son time. Should one have spoken to them
ence. who would be born in the future. In about it, they would all have replied
this way, the Negroes, happy to know unquestionable, "It is quite a long time
Slavery their children free, bear their bond since we wear that here."
age with more courage; and when When the father or the mother of
their sons will come to earn their liv the family is spoken of, the children,
The Negroes cross the meadow and ing in the country which has given and even the slaves of the house, des
ascend one by one the two flights of them birth, it is likely they will remain ignate them by the names of a vekha,
stairs to the veranda, where a sort of and till the ground for them, in short. o valho (old woman, old man); and yet
cupboard had been opened, forming the respect for the father is carried to
an alter in one of the comers. Here it Brazilian the highest point. The children kiss
was the miseries of slavery appeared his hand in the morning and in the
to me in all their horror and hideous- evening, and would not embrace him.
Customs
ness. Negresses covered in rags, oth They never address them in the sec
ers half naked, having as covering only ond person. All this forms rather a
a handkerchief fastened behind their curious mixture, which greatly sur
One ignores, in Brazil, what gal
back and over their bosoms, which prises Europeans.
lantry is. When the women are young,
scarcely veiled their throats, and a
one tells it to them with exaggerations
calico skirt, through whose rents
of praise, and one calls them god The Emperor
could be seen their poor, scraggy bod
desses, divinities, etc. When they are
ies; some Negroes, with tawny or be
so no longer, it is told to them just the
sotted looks, came and kneeled down What is most surprising is, that, in
same. Now, for the Brazilians, every
on the marble slabs of the veranda. a country so full of pride, where the
woman who is past thirty is an old
The majority carried on their shoul smallest merchant thinks himself a
woman, and they would not be afraid
ders the marks of scars, which the power, the Emperor is assuredly the
to say to her then, "Esta acabada!" (You
lashes had inflicted; several were af most accessible of all his subjects.
are played out!) It is not very amiable,
fected with horrible maladies, such as There is no need of asking an audi
as you see.
elephantiasis, or leprosy. All this was ence, to be admitted to his presence:
To begin from this moment,
dirty, repulsive, and hideous. Fear or he receives every Thursday, at his pal
woman no longer counts. Likewise,
hate, that is what could be read on all ace of San Chrostovo, those who wish
the Brazilian ladies when come to this
these faces, which I never have seen to speak with him.
age generally give up society. They do
smile. One awaits him in a long gallery,
up their hair with negligence, no mat
There is in their blood a bitter prin which the Emperor crosses at a cer
ter how, no longer go out in the world
ciple, which kills the white man. The tain given hour. There each one in turn
at all, and remain all day in their loose
Negro's tooth even is frequently dan explains what brought him hither. He
dressing-gowns, and without corsets...
gerous. I have seen more than one seizes very rapidly what is told him,
As I was saying a little while ago, a
example, in Brazil, of European over has a prodigious memory, and replies
Brazilian lady would blush to be
seers (for never does a Brazilian him very briefly in the language of the per
caught in any occupation whatever,
self strike his slave), who, in beating son who speaks to him. The very poor
for they profess the greatest disdain
their Negroes, had been bitten by est people are admitted to the palace.
for all who work. The pride of the
them, or even only had been touched Each one must kiss the hand of the
South American is extreme. Every
by their teeth, who were obliged to Emperor in arriving and in taking
body wants to be master; no one
have their arm amputated. leave; for whatever may have been
wishes to serve. One admits, in Bra
The Brazilian race could not stand said, kissing the hand still exists in
zil, of no other profession but that of
hard labor; besides, it despises all Brazil. It is the only established eti
physician, lawyer, or wholesale mer
manual labor. Not a Brazilian who quette.
chant.
would consent to be employed; all To give an idea with what facility
A Brazilian or Brazilian lady must
10 SOUTH AMERICAN EXPLORER