S M O K I N G MEAT S M O K I N G M E AT Will Fleischman CONTENTS 6 Introduction POULTRY COOKING LOW AND SLOW 122 Smoking Poultry: What You Need to Know 124 Poultry Cuts 10 Cooking with Smoke 126 Turkey Breast 12 A Brief History of BBQ 130 Texas Quail 14 The Principles of BBQ 136 Jerk-Rubbed Chicken Wings 16 The Smokers 140 Whole Chicken 22 The Elements of Smoking 146 Chicken Thighs with Alabama White Sauce 26 Starters, Fuel, and Wood 150 Smoky Yakitori Chicken 28 Building and Tuning the Fire 30 BBQ Troubleshooting GAME 32 Seasoning and Flavoring 34 BBQ Tools of the Trade 158 Venison Tenderloin 36 Smoking and Kitchen Safety 160 Whole Pheasant 38 The Language of BBQ 164 Wild Boar Ribs 165 Bison Ribeye BEEF 166 Elk Strip Loin SEAFOOD 42 Smoking Beef: What You Need to Know 44 Beef Cuts 170 Smoking Seafood: What You Need to Know 46 Brisket 172 Sourcing Seafood 52 Short Plate Ribs 174 Whole Rainbow Trout 56 Tenderloin 175 Red Snapper 60 Shoulder (Clod) 178 Salmon with Sweet Glaze 64 Ribeye 180 Texas Cold-Smoked Salmon LAMB 182 Shrimp Skewers 186 Oysters 70 Smoking Lamb: What You Need to Know 188 Lobster Tail 72 Lamb Cuts A LITTLE EXTRA SMOKE 74 Rack of Lamb 78 Lamb Shanks with Bourbon Plum Sauce 192 Smoked Portobello Mushroom Caps 84 Lamb Necks with Kentucky-Style Dip 194 Smoked Asparagus with Pork Belly PORK 196 Smoked Wild Mushroom and White Grape Salad 197 Smoked Salsa Verde 90 Smoking Pork: What You Need to Know 198 Smoked Habanero Hot Sauce 92 Pork Cuts 94 Baby Back Ribs 200 Smoking Times and Temps 100 Spare Ribs 202 Index 104 Pulled Pork Butt 208 About the Author 110 Pork Belly 208 Acknowledgments 114 How to Cure and Smoke Bacon 116 Ham 6 SMOKING MEAT INTRODUCTION Smoking meat and being a BBQ pitmaster aren’t things I ever envisioned myself While I subscribe doing as a career. I grew up in the heart of Wisconsin, surrounded by lakes, rivers, to a somewhat farms, forests, and fields. Needless to say, BBQ wasn’t then—nor is it now—one of puritanical view about BBQ— the predominant culinary traditions in the Badger State. In fact, I don’t ever recall letting the natural even seeing a smoker or eating BBQ until I first came to Texas a little more than flavors speak for 10 years ago. Until then, BBQ was a sauce that went on ribs my mother would boil themselves—the and then bake. I recall they weren’t my favorite meal choice and, fortunately, rarely scope of this graced our table. book embraces a variety of regional I had my first taste of real BBQ—smoked low and slow—at a forgettable BBQ styles that joint one afternoon in July. I remember the oppressive heat of that Texas summer include sauces, more than the BBQ. I could never have imagined that a few years later, Southern mops, and glazes. Living magazine would recognize me as one of the top 10 pitmasters in the South or that I’d get a call to appear on the TV program BBQ Pitmasters. As some have said, maybe it was simply my rugged good looks and beard that got me any attention at all in the BBQ world. Or maybe my successes have come from cooking some outstanding smoked meats and being willing to take creative risks while pushing the envelope of BBQ and embracing the traditions found within. As they say, the jury’s still out. Whatever the case, I’ve always sought out bold flavors and new techniques that make an impression on me like a tattoo on my brain. My time spent in Shanghai led me to knowingly—and, at times, unknowingly—eat roasted donkey, cold goose livers, duck brains sucked directly from the skull, pig’s lung, and myriad other oddities that totally strengthened the kinds of foods I cook and enjoy. My travels across the United States have taken me to each and every corner of the country to experience a huge variety of cultural culinary traditions, such as roasted goat with native Navajo, salmon jerky on the Pacific Crest Trail, fresh porgy from the Gulf of Mexico, and late-night dirty water dogs in New York City. My desire to find the most off-the-beaten-path spots to eat has brought me friendships with people I don’t even share a common language with—only an enthusiasm for good food. The recipes and techniques presented in this book are derived from these findings, as well as my experiences cooking BBQ professionally and recreationally. While I subscribe to a somewhat puritanical view about BBQ—letting the natural flavors speak for themselves—the scope of this book embraces a variety of regional styles that include sauces, mops, and glazes. You should find what works best for you, and then adjust and adapt—and, most importantly, enjoy yourself. Because you’ll have plenty to learn along the way, pay attention and be proud of what you do.