OthertitlesintheWoodheadPublishingLimitedseriesonfibres,published in association with The Textile Institute Series Editor: Professor J E McIntyre Regenerated cellulose fibres Wool science and technology Silk, mohair, cashmere and other luxury fibres High-performancefibres Synthetic fibres Cotton science and technology Bast and other leaf fibres Smart fibres, fabrics and clothing Edited by Xiaoming Tao CRC Press Boca Raton Boston New York Washington, DC W OODHEAD PUBLISHING LIMITED Cambridge England PublishedbyWoodheadPublishingLimitedinassociationwithTheTextileInstitute WoodheadPublishingLtd AbingtonHall,Abington CambridgeCB16AH,England www.woodhead-publishing.com PublishedinNorthandSouthAmericabyCRCPressLLC 2000CorporateBlvd,NW BocaRatonFL33431,USA Firstpublished2001,WoodheadPublishingLtdandCRCPressLLC ©2001,WoodheadPublishingLtd Theauthorshaveassertedtheirmoralrights. Thisbookcontainsinformationobtainedfromauthenticandhighlyregardedsources. 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Trademarknotice:Productorcorporatenamesmaybe trademarksor registered trademarks,andareusedonlyforidentificationandexplanation,withoutintentto infringe. BritishLibraryCataloguinginPublicationData Acataloguerecordforthisbookis availablefrom theBritishLibrary. Libraryof CongressCataloginginPublicationData Acatalogrecordforthisbookisavailablefromthe Libraryof Congress. WoodheadPublishingISBN1855735466 CRCPressISBN0-8493-1172-1 CRCPressordernumber:WP1172 CoverdesignbyThe ColourStudio TypesetbyVisionTypesetting,Manchester PrintedbyTJInternationalLtd,Cornwall,England Foreword Thehistoryoftextilesandfibresspansthousandsofyears,beginningwiththe stylechangefromanimalskinstothefirstfabricusedtoclothehumanity.But during the relatively short period of the past 50 years, the fibre and textile industrieshaveundergonethemostrevolutionarychangesandseenthemost remarkable innovations in their history. Chapter One discusses the most importantinnovationstogetherwiththeadventoftheinformationindustry. In fact, it is the merger of these industries that has led to this book. We are not talking merely of fabrics and textiles imparting information; indeed,that has been occurring for many, many generationsand numerous examples exist from fabrics and tapestries that have told intricate tales of warfareandfamilylifeandhistory,tothoseimpartinginformationaboutthe wealth and social status of the owners of the fabrics. We are talking about much more. Nor are we referring to fabrics that may have multifunctional purposes,suchasfashionandenvironmentalprotection,orrainwear,orthose fabricsprovidingresistancetoaplethoraofthreats,suchasballistic,chemical and flame protection. These systems are all passive systems. No, we are talkinghereaboutmaterialsorstructuresthatsenseandreacttoenvironmental stimuli,suchasthosefrommechanical,thermal,chemical,magneticorothers. We are talking ‘smart’ and ‘active’ systems. We are talking about the true merger of the textile and information industries. ‘Smart textiles’ are made possible due to advances in many technologies coupled with the advances in textile materials and structures. A partial list includes biotechnology, information technology, microelectronics, wearable computers,nanotechnology and microelectromechanicalmachines. Many of the innovations in textile applications in the past 50 years have startedwithmilitaryapplications—fromfibreglassstructuresforradomes,to fragment and bullet resistant body armour, to chemical agent protective clothing,tofibre-reinforcedcomposites—indeed,manyofourcurrentdefence systemsandadvancedaircraftwouldnotbepossiblewithoutthesematerials. Soperhapsit is notsurprisingthat the initialapplicationsforsmart textiles havealsocomeeitherdirectlyfrommilitaryR&Dorfromspin-offs.Someof xi xii Foreword thecapabilitiesforsmarttextilesystemsformilitaryapplicationsare:sensing and responding, for example to a biological or chemical sensor; power and data transmission from wearable computers and polymeric batteries; trans- mitting and receiving RF signals; automatic voice warning systems as to ‘dangersahead’;‘on-call’latentreactantssuchasbiocidesorcatalyticdecon- taminationin-situforchemicalandbiologicalagents;andself-repairingmaterials. Inmanycasesthepurposeofthesesystemsistoprovidebothmilitaryand civilian personnel engaged in high-risk applications with the most effective survivability technologies. They will thus be able to have superiority in fightability,mobility,cognitiveperformance,andprotectionthroughmaterials forcombatclothingandequipment,whichperformwithintelligentreaction tothreatsandsituationalneeds.Thus,wewillbeprovidinghigh-riskpersonnel with as many executable functions as possible, which require the fewest possible actions on his/her part to initiate a response to a situational need. This can be accomplished by converting traditional passive clothing and equipmentmaterialsandsystemsintoactivesystemsthatincreasesituational awareness,communications,informationtechnology,andgenerallyimprove performance. Someexamplesofthesesystemsarebodyconformalantennasforintegrated radioequipmentintoclothing;poweranddatatransmission—apersonalarea network; flexible photovoltaics integrated into textile fabrics; physiological statusmonitoringtomonitorhydrationandnutritionalstatusaswellasthe moreconventionalheartmonitoring;smartfootweartoletyouknowwhere you are and to convert and conserve energy; and, of course, phase change materialsforheatingandcoolingoftheindividual.Anotherapplicationisthe weavingofsensorsintoparachutestoavoidobstaclesandsteertheparachutist or the cargo load to precise locations. Thereare,naturally,manymoreapplicationsfor‘smart’textilesthanthose applied to military personnel, or civilian police, firemen, and emergency responders.Mountainclimbers,sports personnel,businessmenwithbuilt-in wearable microcomputers, and medical personnel will all benefit from this revolution in textiles. Youwilllearnofmanymoreapplicationsfor‘smart’textilesinthisbook. Youwillfindthattheapplicationsarelimitedonlybyyourimaginationand the practical applications perhaps limited only by their cost. But we know those costs will come down. So let your imagination soar. The current worldwidetextileindustryisover50millionmetrictonsperyear,andifweare abletocaptureonlyameasly1%ofthatmarket,itis stillworth morethan £1 billion. Dr Robert W. Lewis Contributors Pushpa Bajaj, Toshihiro Hirai, Departmentof Textile Technology, Department of Materials Chemistry, Indian Institute of Technology, Faculty of Textile Science and Hauz Khas, Technology, New Delhi, Shinshu University, India Tokida 3-15-1, [email protected] Ueda-shi 386-8567, Japan Bernhard Bischoff, [email protected] Bischoff Textile AG, St. Gallen, Switzerland Hartwig Hoecker, bernhard.bischoff@bischoff-textil.com German Wool Research Institute at Aachen University of Technology, Philip J Brown, DWI, School of Materials, Science & Veltmanplatz 8, Engineering, D-52062 Aachen, ClemsonUniversity, Germany 161 Sirrine Hall, [email protected] Clemson, SC 29634-0971, Sundaresan Jayaraman, USA Georgia Institute of Technology, Elisabeth Heine, School of Textile and Fiber DWI, Engineering, Veltmanplatz 8, Atlanta, D-52062 Aachen, GA 30332-0295, Germany USA [email protected] [email protected] xiii xiv Contributors So Yeon Kim, Seeram Ramakrishna, School of Chemical Engineering, Faculty of Engineering, College of Engineering, Departmentof Mechanical HanyangUniversity, Engineering, Haengdang-dong,Songdong-gu, National University of Singapore, Seoul 133-791, 10 Kent Ridge Crescent, Korea Singapore119260 [email protected] [email protected] Young Moo Lee, Roland Seidl, School of Chemical Engineering, Jakob Mueller Institute of Narrow College of Engineering, Fabrics, HanyangUniversity, Frick, Haengdang-dong,Songdong-gu, Switzerland Seoul 133-791, [email protected] Korea [email protected] Ba¨rbel Selm, Swiss Federal Institute of Materials Andreas Lendlein, Testing, DWI, St. Gallen, Veltmanplatz 8, Switzerland D-52062 Aachen, [email protected] Germany [email protected] Jin Kie Shim, School of Chemical Engineering, Heikki Mattila, College of Engineering, Fibre Materials Science, HanyangUniversity, Tampere University of Technology, Haengdang-dong,Songdong-gu, PO Box 589, Seoul 133-791, 33101 Tampere, Korea Finland [email protected] [email protected] Sungmee Park, HirofusaShirai, Georgia Institute of Technology, Faculty of Textile Science and School of Textile and Fiber Technology, Engineering, Shinshu University, Atlanta, Tokida 3-15-1, GA 30332-0295, Ueda-shi 386-8567, USA Japan [email protected] [email protected] Contributors xv Xiaoming Tao, Dongxiao Yang, Institute of Textiles and Clothing, Departmentof Information and The Hong Kong Polytechnic Electronic Engineering, University, Zhejiang University, Yuk Choi Road, Hangzhou 310027 Hung Hom, China Hong Kong [email protected] [email protected] Aping Zhang Devron P. Thibodeaux, Institute of Textiles and Clothing, USDA, REE, ARS, MSA, The Hong Kong Polytechnic SRRC-CTCR, University, 1100 Robert E. Lee Boulevard, Yuk Choi Road, New Orleans, Hung Hom, LS 70124, Hong Kong USA [email protected] [email protected] Xingxiang Zhang, Xiaogeng Tian, Institute of Functional Fibres, Institute of Textiles and Clothing, Tianjin Institute of Textile Science The Hong Kong Polytechnic and Technology, University, Tianjin, 300160, Yuk Choi Road, China Hung Hom, [email protected] Hong Kong [email protected] Jianming Zheng, Faculty of Textile Science and Tyrone L. Vigo, Technology, USDA, REE, ARS, MSA, Shinshu University, SRRC-CTCR, Tokida 3-15-1, 1100 Robert E. Lee Boulevard, Ueda-shi 386-8567, New Orleans, Japan LS 70124, [email protected] USA [email protected] Masashi Watanabe, Faculty of Textile Science and Technology, Shinshu University, Tokida 3-15-1, Ueda-shi 386-8567, Japan [email protected] Acknowledgements TheEditorwishestothanktheHongKongPolytechnicUniversityforpartial support under the Area of Strategic Development Fund and Dr Dongxiao Yang for assistance in compiling this book. The Editor also thanks all contributing authors for their efforts in making this book a reality. xvii 1 Smart technology for textiles and clothing – introduction and overview XIAOMING TAO 1.1 Introduction Sincethenineteenthcentury,revolutionarychangeshavebeenoccurringatan unprecedented rate in many fields of science and technology, which have profound impacts on every human being. Inventions of electronic chips, computers,the Internet, thediscoveryand completemappingof thehuman genome,andmanymore,havetransformedtheentireworld.Thelastcentury alsobroughttremendousadvancesinthetextileandclothingindustry,which has a history of many thousands of years. Solid foundations of scientific understanding have been laid to guide the improved usage and processing technology of natural fibres and the manufacturing of synthetic fibres. We have learnt a lot from nature. Viscose rayon, nylon, polyester and other syntheticfibreswereinventedinitiallyforthesakeofmimickingtheirnatural counterparts.Thetechnologyhasprogressedsothatsyntheticfibresandtheir products surpass them in many aspects. Biological routes for synthesizing polymersortextileprocessingrepresentanenvironmentallyfriendly,sustainable way of utilizing natural resources. Design and processing with the aid of computers, automation with remote centralized or distributed control, and Internet-basedintegratedsupply-chainmanagementsystemsbringcustomers closer to the very beginning of the chain than ever before. Lookingahead,thefuturepromisesevenmore.Whatnewcapacitiesshould we expect as results of future developments? They should at least include terascale,nanoscale,complexity,cognitionandholism.Thenewcapabilityof terascaletakesusthreeordersofmagnitudebeyondthepresentgeneral-purpose andgenerallyaccessiblecomputingcapabilities.Inaveryshorttime,wewillbe connectingmillionsofsystemsandbillions ofinformationappliancestothe Internet.Technologiesallowingoveronetrillionoperationspersecondareon theagendaforresearch.Thetechnologyinnanoscaleswilltakeusthreeorders of magnitudebelow the size of mostof today’s human-madedevices.It will allow us to arrange atoms andmolecules inexpensivelyin most of the ways 1