Table Of Content

M i l a d y SKIN CARE AND COSMETIC INGREDIENTS DICTIONARY FOuRTh EDITION M. VARINIA MIChAluN AND JOSEph C. DINARDO Australia • Brazil • Mexico • Singapore • United Kingdom • United States Copyright 2014 Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be copied, scanned, or duplicated, in whole or in part. Due to electronic rights, some third party content may be suppressed from the eBook and/or eChapter(s). Editorial Review has deemed that any suppressed content does not materially affect the overall learning experience. Cengage Learning reserves the right to remove additional content at any time if subsequent rights restrictions require it. 60798_FM_ptg01_i-xii.indd 1 04/12/13 2:32 PM This is an electronic version of the print textbook. Due to electronic rights restrictions, some third party content may be suppressed. Editorial review has deemed that any suppressed content does not materially affect the overall learning experience. The publisher reserves the right to remove content from this title at any time if subsequent rights restrictions require it. For valuable information on pricing, previous editions, changes to current editions, and alternate formats, please visit www.cengage.com/highered to search by ISBN#, author, title, or keyword for materials in your areas of interest. Copyright 2014 Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be copied, scanned, or duplicated, in whole or in part. Due to electronic rights, some third party content may be suppressed from the eBook and/or eChapter(s). Editorial Review has deemed that any suppressed content does not materially affect the overall learning experience. Cengage Learning reserves the right to remove additional content at any time if subsequent rights restrictions require it. 60798_FM_ptg01_i-xii.indd 6 04/12/13 2:32 PM Skin Care and Cosmetic © 2015, 2010, 2001, 1993 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning Ingredients Dictionary, WCN: 02-200-203 Fourth Edition M. Varinia Michalun ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. No part of this work covered by the copyright herein may be reproduced, transmitted, stored, or used Joseph C. DiNardo in any form or by any means graphic, electronic, or mechanical, including but not limited to photocopying, recording, scanning, Executive Director: digitizing, taping, Web distribution, information networks, or Sandra L. Bruce information storage and retrieval systems, except as permitted Product Director: under Section 107 or 108 of the 1976 United States Copyright Act, Corina Santoro without the prior written permission of the publisher. Product Manager: For product information and technology assistance, Philip I. 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Cengage Learning products are represented in Canada by Nelson Education, Ltd. For your lifelong learning solutions, visit milady.cengage.com Purchase any of our products at your local college store or at our preferred online store www.cengagebrain.com. Visit our corporate website at cengage.com Notice to the Reader Publisher does not warrant or guarantee any of the products described herein or perform any independent analysis in connection with any of the product information contained herein. Publisher does not assume, and expressly disclaims, any obligation to obtain and include information other than that provided to it by the manufacturer. The reader is expressly warned to consider and adopt all safety precautions that might be indicated by the activities described herein and to avoid all potential hazards. By following the instructions contained herein, the reader willingly assumes all risks in connection with such instructions. The publisher makes no representations or warranties of any kind, including but not limited to, the warranties of fitness for particular purpose or merchantability, nor are any such representations implied with respect to the material set forth herein, and the publisher takes no responsibility with respect to such material. The publisher shall not be liable for any special, consequential, or exemplary damages resulting, in whole or part, from the readers’ use of, or reliance upon, this material. Printed in the United States of America 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 17 16 15 14 13 Copyright 2014 Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be copied, scanned, or duplicated, in whole or in part. Due to electronic rights, some third party content may be suppressed from the eBook and/or eChapter(s). Editorial Review has deemed that any suppressed content does not materially affect the overall learning experience. Cengage Learning reserves the right to remove additional content at any time if subsequent rights restrictions require it. 60798_FM_ptg01_i-xii.indd 2 04/12/13 2:32 PM Contents Author Biography v Acknowledgments vii Forward ix Dedication xi PArt I: The Skin and Cosmetics 1 Introduction 3 Chapter 1: Skin Anatomy & Physiology 9 Introduction 9 The Functions of the Skin 9 Skin Components and Structure 10 Layers of the Skin 12 Summary 21 Chapter 2: Skin Types, Conditions & Problems 23 Introduction 23 The Five Basic Questions 23 Skin Types 25 Skin Conditions 31 Adverse Reactions 38 Summary 42 Chapter 3: How Products Work 45 Introduction 45 Cosmetic Ingredients 45 Product and Ingredient Penetration 47 Safety Testing 49 Efficacy Testing 53 Claim Substantiation 56 Summary 62 iii Copyright 2014 Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be copied, scanned, or duplicated, in whole or in part. Due to electronic rights, some third party content may be suppressed from the eBook and/or eChapter(s). Editorial Review has deemed that any suppressed content does not materially affect the overall learning experience. Cengage Learning reserves the right to remove additional content at any time if subsequent rights restrictions require it. 60798_FM_ptg01_i-xii.indd 3 04/12/13 2:32 PM iv CoNTENTS Chapter 4: Definition of Terms 65 Introduction 65 Commonly Used Terms Defined 65 PArt II: Product Ingredients 93 PArt III: Botanical Latin Names 327 Botanical Latin Names 329 Copyright 2014 Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be copied, scanned, or duplicated, in whole or in part. Due to electronic rights, some third party content may be suppressed from the eBook and/or eChapter(s). Editorial Review has deemed that any suppressed content does not materially affect the overall learning experience. Cengage Learning reserves the right to remove additional content at any time if subsequent rights restrictions require it. 60798_FM_ptg01_i-xii.indd 4 04/12/13 2:32 PM Author Biography M. Varinia Michalun has specialized in international cosmetics marketing and new product development and has lectured on cosmetic ingredients and product use to professionals in the United States, Europe, Australia, New Zealand, and Asia. Her experience also includes skin care salon management, and aesthetics education. She has authored articles for industry magazines, provides expertise to beauty journalist, is a contributor for Milady Standard Esthetics: Advanced and co-author of Skin Care and Cosmetic Ingredients Dictionary. Mr. DiNardo has 37 years of experience in the skin care field. He is a highly respected product formulator, well versed in all aspects of regulatory and safety affairs, clinical research and international product registration. Chief Scientific officer—Emeritus for Pharma Cosmetix Research and a former Vice President of Research & Development for Revlon-Almay Inc., Mr. DiNardo was the VP of R&D for Almay Hypoallergenic Cosmetics and spent many years leading research for the development of products dedicated to atopic dermatitis. His professional affiliations include the Personal Care Products Council (formerly known as the Cosmetic, Toiletry & Fragrance Association), the Society of Toxicology, and he is a former Chairman of the Carolina Chapter of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists. Mr. DiNardo has published several articles and abstracts in the areas of Photobiology, Reproductive Toxicology, General Toxicology, Contact Dermatitis, Regulatory Affairs, Comedogenicity, Alpha Hydroxy Acid Safety & Efficacy, and General Anti-oxidant Research. He possesses a Master of Science degree in Toxicology from St. John’s University with his undergraduate degree in Biology from Mercy College in New York. v Copyright 2014 Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be copied, scanned, or duplicated, in whole or in part. Due to electronic rights, some third party content may be suppressed from the eBook and/or eChapter(s). Editorial Review has deemed that any suppressed content does not materially affect the overall learning experience. Cengage Learning reserves the right to remove additional content at any time if subsequent rights restrictions require it. 60798_FM_ptg01_i-xii.indd 5 04/12/13 2:32 PM Copyright 2014 Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be copied, scanned, or duplicated, in whole or in part. Due to electronic rights, some third party content may be suppressed from the eBook and/or eChapter(s). Editorial Review has deemed that any suppressed content does not materially affect the overall learning experience. Cengage Learning reserves the right to remove additional content at any time if subsequent rights restrictions require it. 60798_FM_ptg01_i-xii.indd 6 04/12/13 2:32 PM Acknowledgments The author and publisher would like to thank the following professionals for their assistance and expertise in the preparation of the final product. Afsheen Ather, Parama Center for Health and Wellness, The Esthetic Institute, Director of Aesthetics Casey Durrett, Paul Mitchell the School, Licensed Esthetician, Instructor Amber Falls, Marinello School of Beauty, Esthetic Instructor Patrice Ann Hredzak, Director of Esthetics Fredrick J. Laurino, House of Heavilin of Kansas, Inc. CEo Lynn Maestro, IBSG, LLC. Director of Marketing and Education Fumi ozaki, “o” de Kirei, owner Janet Prediletto, LPN. Janet Prediletto Professional Aesthetics, LTD, owner, Medical Aesthetician Jennifer Schrodt, University of Nebraska, Post-Secondary Education Paula Di Marco Young, BS, RN. Young Medical Spa® & Dr. TattAway® Laser Tattoo and Hair Removal, Co-owner, Registered Nurse, Certified Laser operator/Aesthetician vii Copyright 2014 Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be copied, scanned, or duplicated, in whole or in part. Due to electronic rights, some third party content may be suppressed from the eBook and/or eChapter(s). Editorial Review has deemed that any suppressed content does not materially affect the overall learning experience. Cengage Learning reserves the right to remove additional content at any time if subsequent rights restrictions require it. 60798_FM_ptg01_i-xii.indd 7 04/12/13 2:32 PM Copyright 2014 Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be copied, scanned, or duplicated, in whole or in part. Due to electronic rights, some third party content may be suppressed from the eBook and/or eChapter(s). Editorial Review has deemed that any suppressed content does not materially affect the overall learning experience. Cengage Learning reserves the right to remove additional content at any time if subsequent rights restrictions require it. 60798_FM_ptg01_i-xii.indd 8 04/12/13 2:32 PM