Sicily PDF
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P D F Sicily PDF ebook Edition 7th Edition Release Date Jan 2017 Pages 320 Useful Links Want more guides? Head to our shop Trouble with your PDF? Trouble shoot here Need more help? Head to our FAQs Stay in touch Contact us here © Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this PDF ebook is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above – ‘Do the right thing with our content’. 4 easy-to-use How to Use This Book sections Look for these symbols to quickly identify listings: 1 4 Sights Sleeping r 5 Beaches Eating 2 6 PLAN YOUR TRIP Activities Drinking C 3 Courses Entertainment Your planning tool kit T 7 Photos & suggestions to help Tours Shopping you create the perfect trip. z Festivals 8 Information & Events & Transport All reviews are ordered in our authors’ preference, starting with their most preferred option. Additionally: Sights are arranged in the geographic order that we suggest you visit them and, within this order, by author preference. ON THE ROAD Eating and Sleeping reviews are ordered by price range (budget, midrange, top end) and, within these Your complete guide ranges, by author preference. Expert reviews, easy-to-use maps & insider tips. These symbols and abbreviations give vital information for each listing: Must-visit recommendation Sustainable or green recommendation No payment required % Telephone number f Ferry UNDERSTAND h Opening hours j Tram p Parking d Train Get more from your trip n Nonsmoking a pt apartments Learn about the big picture, to a Air-conditioning d double rooms make sense of what you see. i Internet access d m dorm beds W Wi-fi access q quad rooms s Swimming pool r rooms v Vegetarian selection s single rooms E English-language menu ste suites c Family-friendly tr triple rooms # Pet-friendly tw twin rooms g Bus SURVIVAL GUIDE Your at-a-glance reference For symbols used on maps, see the Map Legend. Vital practical information for a smooth trip. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Sicily Aeolian Islands p129 Palermo Tyrrhenian Coast Western p48 p111 Sicily p84 Ionian Central Sicily Coast p212 p155 Mediterranean Coast p227 Syracuse & the Southeast p184 THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY Gregor Clark, Cristian Bonetto P LAN ON THE ROAD YOUR TRIP Welcome to Sicily . . . . . . . 4 PALERMO . . . . . . . . . 48 Petralia Soprana . . . . . . . . 121 Sicily Map . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6 Palermo . . . . . . . . . . . . . .50 Petralia Sottana . . . . . . . . 122 Sicily’s Top 14 . . . . . . . . . . . 8 Palermo Region . . . . . . .80 Piano Battaglia . . . . . . . . . 123 Mondello . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80 Collesano . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 123 Need to Know . . . . . . . . . .16 Monreale . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80 Parco Regionale First Time Sicily . . . . . . . .18 Corleone . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 81 dei Nebrodi . . . . . . . . . .124 San Marco If You Like… . . . . . . . . . . 20 Ustica . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82 d’Alunzio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 125 Month by Month . . . . . . . 23 Mistretta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 125 Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 WESTERN SICILY . . . 84 Coastal Resort Golfo di Villages . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 125 Eat & Drink Castellammare . . . . . . . .85 Castel di Tusa . . . . . . . . . . 125 Like a Local . . . . . . . . . . . 29 Scopello . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85 Capo d’Orlando . . . . . . . . 126 Outdoor Activities . . . . . 35 San Vito Lo Capo . . . . . . . . 85 Milazzo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 126 Travel with Children . . . . . 41 Riserva Naturale dello Zingaro . . . . . . . . . . . . 88 Regions at a Glance . . . . 44 AEOLIAN Castellammare ISLANDS . . . . . . . . . 129 del Golfo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90 Lipari . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .131 Segesta . . . . . . . . . . . . . .90 SABINE LUBENOW/LOOK-FOTO/GETTY IM TAESEFarrgaraivolacipinuedgae . nni n .adIdis .n . i .Tl a .aTr . .r .na .a . .pd .p . . .as .a . . n . .n . . . .ii . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .999999696981 VSPSFAiuaatllirinllccocianuuamraddne biio .a o . . . l . . . . .i . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .111111454354496327 AGES © LMeavraentztiom . o . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110021 IONIAN COAST . . . . 155 The Southwest . . . . . . .103 Messina . . . . . . . . . . . . .158 PANAREA P146 Marsala . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 103 Around Messina . . . . . . .161 Mazara del Vallo . . . . . . . . 106 Punta del Faro . . . . . . . . . . 161 Selinunte . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 108 Taormina . . . . . . . . . . . . .161 BILDAGENTUR ZOONAR GM CATCerYOofRaAulRnSùd .H T .CE . .e . .Nf . .aI . .Al .ù .N . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 111111481 AGSCRairaiavovtrioauedcnnrinaaidai . - . .TN .a .a . .ox . .ro . .ms . . .i . . n . . .a . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .111166666867 BH/SHUTTERSTOCK © CPRMaeaarcgdccioooann mNiaeoal . e . t . u .d . .re .a .l . .lle . .e . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 111188 AAdAeccciiii r TCeCraaieclszeltzoe . apl . . lo . .i . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .111177789771 Castelbuono . . . . . . . . . . . 118 Mount Etna . . . . . . . . . . .181 NOTO P197 Contents UNDERSTAND SYRACUSE & THE MEDITERRANEAN Sicily Today . . . . . . . . . . 262 SOUTHEAST . . . . . . 184 COAST . . . . . . . . . . . 227 History . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 264 Syracuse & Around . . .185 Agrigento . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 230 Sicilian Table . . . . . . . . . 274 Syracuse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 185 Valley of the Temples . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 234 Sicilian Way of Life . . . .281 The Southeast . . . . . . .196 Valle Dell’Anapo, Beaches & Sicily on Page Ferla & Necropoli Beauty Spots . . . . . . . . . . 237 & Screen . . . . . . . . . . . .285 di Pantalica . . . . . . . . . . . . 196 Eraclea Minoa . . . . . . . . . . 239 The Mafia . . . . . . . . . . . .288 Palazzolo Acreide . . . . . . . 196 Sciacca . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 239 Arts & Architecture . . .292 Noto . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 197 Caltabellotta . . . . . . . . . . . 242 The Noto Coast . . . . . . . . 201 Licata . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 242 Modica . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 202 Falconara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 243 SURVIVAL Around Modica . . . . . . . . . 205 Gela . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .243 GUIDE Ragusa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 206 Chiaramonte Gulfi . . . . . . 211 ACCOMMODATION . . . 245 Directory A–Z . . . . . . . .296 Palermo . . . . . . . . . . . . . 246 Transport . . . . . . . . . . . . 302 CENTRAL SICILY . . . 212 Western Sicily . . . . . . . . 247 Language . . . . . . . . . . . . 307 Enna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .214 Tyrrhenian Coast . . . . .249 Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 315 North of Enna . . . . . . . . 217 Aeolian Islands . . . . . . . 251 Calascibetta . . . . . . . . . . . 217 Ionian Coast . . . . . . . . .253 Map Legend . . . . . . . . . . . 319 Nicosia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 217 Syracuse & the Southeast . . . . . . . . 256 South of Enna . . . . . . . . 219 Piazza Armerina . . . . . . . . 219 Central Sicily . . . . . . . .258 Villa Romana Mediterranean del Casale . . . . . . . . . . . . . 222 Coast . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .259 Caltagirone . . . . . . . . . . . . 223 The Western Interior . . . 226 Caltanissetta . . . . . . . . . . . 226 SPECIAL FEATURES Eat & Drink Sicilian Way of Life . . . .281 Like a Local . . . . . . . . . . . 29 Sicily on Page Outdoor Activities . . . . . 35 & Screen . . . . . . . . . . . .285 Travel with Children . . . . . 41 The Mafia . . . . . . . . . . . .288 Sicilian Architecture . . . .71 Arts & Architecture . . . . . . .292 Sicilian Table . . . . . . . . . 274 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 4 Welcome to Sicily Eternal crossroads of the Mediterranean, the gorgeous island of Sicily continues to seduce travellers with its dazzling diversity of landscapes and cultural treasures. Classical Crossroads Sparkling Seas, Restless Seductively beautiful and perfectly placed Mountains in the Mediterranean, Sicily has been luring Sicily’s varied landscape makes a dramatic passersby since the time of legends. The first impression. Fly into Catania and the land of the Cyclops has been praised by smoking hulk of Etna greets you; arrive poets from Homer to Virgil and prized by in Palermo and it’s the sparkling Golfo di the many ancient cultures – Phoenicians, Castellammare. This juxtaposition of sea, Carthaginians, Elymians, Romans and volcano and mountain scenery makes a Greeks – whose bones lie buried here. stunning backdrop for outdoor activities. Whether in the classical perfection of Agri Hikers can wind along precipitous coast gento’s Concordia temple, the monumental lines, climb erupting volcanoes and traipse rubble of Selinunte’s columns or the rare through flowery mountain meadows; bird grace of a dancing satyr statue rescued from ers benefit from the plethora of species on Mazara del Vallo’s watery depths, reminders the AfricaEurope migration route; and of bygone civilisations are everywhere. divers and swimmers enjoy some of the Mediterranean’s most pristine waters. Mediterranean Flavours A delectable layercake of culinary influ Byzantine to Baroque ences, Sicily’s ancient cuisine continues to As if its classical heritage weren’t formida rely on a few key islandgrown ingredients: ble enough, Sicily is bursting at the seams shellfish and citrus, tuna and swordfish, with later artistic and architectural gems. pistachios, almonds and ricotta. Talk to the In a short walk around Palermo you’ll see septuagenarian chef at a Catania restaurant Arab domes and arches, Byzantine mosaics and she’ll confide that she still uses her and Norman palace walls. Circle around to grandmother’s recipe for pasta alla Norma, southeast Sicily and you’ll find a stunning joyfully sharing the poetic imagery that array of baroque architectural masterpieces, links it to Mt Etna: the tomatoes are lava; from the goldenhued domes and palaces of the aubergines, cinders; the basil, leafy Noto to the multitiered cathedral facades greenery; the ricotta, snow. Modern chefs of Ragusa and Modica. This embarrassment may play with the details, but Sicily’s time of cultural riches remains one of the island’s less recipes – from the simplest cannolo to most distinctive attractions. the most exquisite fish couscous – live on. 5 IHLOW/ULLSTEIN BILD VIA GETTY IM AGES © Why I Love Sicily By Gregor Clark, Writer Decades after my first visit, I still find Sicily one of the world’s most captivating places. Among the island’s innumerable charms, here are a few personal favourites: the ever- present scent of lemon trees, the purity of dawn light on terracotta walls, the colourful decrepitude of Palermo’s markets, the drama of Stromboli erupting against a darkening sky, the sense that history lurks always just around the next corner, the reflective marble glow of late-night Ortygia and Marsala streets, the lonely majesty of Segesta, the exotic flavours of Sicilian food and the island’s endless cultural complexities. For more about our writers, see page 320 Above: Ortygia (p185), Syracuse Sicily 12°E 13°E Tyrrhenian Ustica #\Ustica Sea Caccamo A picturesquely perched Palermo Norman castle (p118) Architectural masterpieces and amazing food (p50) Falcone- Capo Erice SanVito BorsellinoGolfodiGallo Wehsitleltronp S vicilillayg'se p (rpe9t6ti)est loC#\apo GolfoAidrpiort–#Carini #\MGonodlefollodiPalermo Castellam- CapoZafferano 38°N MareItEstilgmaanoddisFaFLvaiegvvniagannnzaaon#\aTrapRai#–nseid#]Vrevinlalc#\oCNeEZanarsizitntcouegerFladlalaroelmoerliG#÷omä#o#\alSrfSoe\#cmeogpaee#\rslAeltoalcamo\#PPaarlteinrimcooB^#agheCriaa\#ä#cITmceSaerommrleuoisnn#\etio\#TGICmeoHorl3leilmmefä#roseeiadsnrnaeiio RiservaNaturale#÷ä#(Birgi)Airport diSCtaagpnooBneoeo#\MMoazrisaala Corleone#\ PdaerlcloeRNMegaa3itdouonrnaailleee \#Partanna #\Castelvetrano MazaradelVallo#\ æ# Saline di Trapani RocchediCusa ä# Men\#fi #\Caltabellotta Salt ponds and Selinunte Phoenician ruins (p98) Sciacc#\a #\Ribera EracleaMinoaä# Agrigento ScaladeiTurchiæ# #\ æ##] Va#\llFeayvoafra Porto Agrigento Empedocle theTemples Siciolfy 'tse fminpelsets c(opl2le3c0t)ion Palmadi#\ Montechiaro 37°N MEDITERRANEAN #\Pantelleria SEA Pantelleria RM(83t6Gmra)nde DPelagicIslands (seeInset;150km) ROAD DISTANCES (km) PelagicIslands Note: Distances SameScaleasMainMap Catania 165 are approximate PortoD Enna 90 85 36°N Em(2p0e0dokmcle) Milazzo 270 130 215 Linosa Linosa#\ Palermo 130 210 140 200 Syracuse 215 65 135 190 260 MEDITERRANEAN SEA Trapani 175 315 245 300 105 365 Agrigento Catania Enna Milazzo Palermo Syracuse Lampione Lam#\pLeadmupsaedusa13°E 13°E e#0 50km 0 25miles 14°E 15°E 16°E Stromboli Stromboli #\Town Aeolian Islands Panarea #\SanPietro Filicudi MtFossaSalina Aeolian Islands Alicudi del(l9e6F2emlc)iR#\SantaMarinaSalina Dazzling seas and Lipari honey-sweet wine (p129) Lipari #\Town Cefalù LPeovratontdei#\ Vulcano GGoilfooiadi Medieval mosaics and gorgeous beaches (p114) Golfodi Capo Milazzo MortellePuntadelFaro 33d'OCral3apnodo CCaalap3voà GPoMalfitoltaidzzio#\MilazMzoesGsiannazi#]rri#\#\#\VG(CiiloalavpaoSnaPnneiloro) 3#\ 3#\CCaes#\ftaellùbuon3#\CdoiaTsutse#\alMSidsaitnrM3et'tiAltiatgealMtloao#\nRti#\33NSd#÷#\'eaAbnPdlrueaMonirdzacNiirooceRob33reogTdiyoinnä#daalreis BSa#\arMvcooecnltlaoin#\PealoritaniStraiMtessosfina #]RCeaglagbiroiadCiALABRIA 38°N #÷MRonPtiizMzoaCdoanribeonara(1979m) (M18t4S7omro) #Gola#\dTaelolr'Amlicnaantara 3SPoetttra3anliaa#\#\PSeotprraal3inaa 3B33ronte#\ #÷33PdeaRlrlc'Eotna #\GNiaaxrodsini- Taormina PLoazgzoildloi A3drano#\ (M333t2E9tnma) #\RCGiiiacvlrioerepraidei Saunmcimenetr tfheesatitvrael s(p i1n6 a1)n Enna#]V#Castellodi Pater#\nò #\#\#\AAcciirTeraelzeza #]CaltanissettLaomä#barMdoiargantina Misterbianco#\#–#]CaAtcaiCnaiastello Mt Etna VillaRomana #\Aidone Fontanarossa Climb Europe's largest delCasaleä##\Piazza Golfodi active volcano (p181) Armerina #\Palagonia Catania #\ #\Mazzarino Lentini#\ Ravanusa #\Caltagirone Megara #\Augusta #\Butera NecropolidHiyblaeaä# Golfodi #\LicatFaaG#\lcoolnfGaoeradlai#] #\Niscemi MontAiIkblrePiaaiä#n#\taPAlaicclraaeziä#dzFoelloorid#\iaV#ACu#]asgStuyelsrlaotacEuusriealo IonianSea 37°N Gela Vittòria#] #\Cómis#]oR#]MagoudsiacaNotAov#\oä#la#\EloroGoNlofotodi MagGnraeS ayGtreraastce cuciisatey ( po1f85) Scicl#\i ä##\Ìspica #÷RFaisuenrivsatiNcaadtuirVaelnedOicaasrii Pozzallo#\Cava #\Pachino d'Ispica CapoPassero Capodelle Parco Naturale Regionale Correnti delle Madonie Splendid walks (p118) ELEVATION Noto Graceful hill town of 2500m baroque domes (p197) 2000m 1500m 1000m 500m 200m 100m 0 14°E 15°E 16°E ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 8 Sicily’s Top 14
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