Sewing Solutions: Tips and Advice for the Savvy Sewist

372 Pages·2012·10.51 MB·English

by  Nicole Vasbinder

Sewing Solutions
Tips and advice for the savvy sewist
NICOLE VASBINDER
Contents
How to use this book
SECTION ONE Tools and Equipment
CHAPTER 1 SEWING TOOLS
The basic sewing machine
The serger/overlock machine
Presser feet
Handsewing needles
Machine needles
CHAPTER 2 NOTIONS AND TRIMS
Threads
Trims
Closures and fasteners
CHAPTER 3 MARKING, MEASURING, AND CUTTING TOOLS
Tailor’s chalk
Markers and pens
Tracing wheels
Transfer paper
Basic measuring tools
Specialty measuring tools
Cutting tools
CHAPTER 4 MISCELLANEOUS TOOLS
Pins
Seam rippers
Point turners
Loop turners
Bodkins
Seam sealant
Bias tape makers: manual
Bias tape-making machines
Pattern paper
Pattern notchers and awls
Dress forms
SECTION TWO Solutions and Tips
CHAPTER 5 FABRIC SOLUTIONS
Anatomy of fabric
Common fabrics
How to identify fabrics
Supporting materials
Choosing the right fabric
CHAPTER 6 PATTERN SOLUTIONS
Pattern envelope translation
Patterns symbols and terms
Pattern and fabric layouts
Cutting fabric
Marking fabric
CHAPTER 7 SEWING SOLUTIONS
Machine basics
Stitching basics
Basic stitches
The importance of pressing
Seam finishes
Darts, gathers, and pleats
Opposing curves and easestitching
Sewing with knits
CHAPTER 8 EMBELLISHMENT AND TRIMMING SOLUTIONS
Pockets
Bias tape
Piping and welting
Sewing on trims
Raised trims
Fabric appliqué
CHAPTER 9 FITTING SOLUTIONS
All about fit
Making a muslin
Tissue fitting
Bust adjustments
Hips and rise
Waistline
Shoulders and sleeves
Neckline
CHAPTER 10 FINISHING SOLUTIONS
Hems
Facings
Linings
Buttonholes
Buttons
Grommets and eyelets
Snaps
Hook-and-loop tape
Buckles
D-rings and O-rings
Hooks and eyes
Zippers
Glossary of terms
Resources
Acknowledgments
Copyright
How to use this book
I started teaching sewing classes in 2003 and since then I have taught
thousands of people from all walks of life how to sew. During this time,
the same questions have come up over and over. What sort of sewing
machine should I buy? Do I need a serger? How do I make this pattern
fit? What tools do I really need? My goal in all of my sewing classes is to
make sewing fun and non-stressful. I really believe that sewing is a life
skill that can bring you so much joy and fulfillment. Although it may cost
you more money upfront to make something than to simply buy it in a
store, you can get exactly what you want in the colors and fabrics you
love. You’ll be able to make it fit correctly and use better-quality
construction techniques so it doesn’t fall apart in the wash. And you will
take better care of something if you have put the time, money, and
energy into making it. Trust me, if you get a stain on your homemade
skirt, you will get that stain out! So, instead of having a gigantic closet full
of nothing to wear, you can have a smaller wardrobe where everything is
special, well made, and you love and wear every piece. Ultimately, that
can save you money.
I find that many people don’t understand how their sewing machine works
and don’t realize that all sewing machines operate and thread the same
way. I will show you how to troubleshoot common machine issues so that
you can quickly solve the problem and get on with your project. I’ll explain
all the basic and not so basic sewing tools; notions, fabrics, and trims;
how to use them; and where you can buy them. I’ll explain where you can
substitute a common household item for a specialist tool and go over
both basic and complex sewing techniques. This book takes the worry
and frustration out of sewing and offers invaluable advice you can trust,
at your fingertips.
I have really intended for this book to be the essential reference book for
the new generation of sewists and sewists of all abilities. Organized by
the stages in a project, from choosing tools and materials, through
reading and understanding patterns to fitting and adding embellishments
and closures, all the information is presented so you know exactly where
to look when you get stuck with a problem. Illustrated entries cover every
aspect and item in the sewing process, with each entry providing the
characteristics, pros and cons, and basic considerations of working with
that item. Icons on each page tell you whether tips relate to buying and
choosing materials; using and working with them; techniques and
tutorials; or safety considerations (see Icon Key table above). Cross-
references take you between chapters so you can see how different
aspects relate to each other, and there are clever tips on how to deal with
virtually any sewing situation.
I sincerely hope that this book becomes an indispensable part of your
library and pushes you to a new level of creativity and confidence. Happy
sewing!