Sew any fabric

162 Pages·2003·6.16 MB·English

by  Claire Shaeffer

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Fabric Basics at Your Fingertips S
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ave you ever wished you could call an expert and ask for a five-minute explanation on the particulars A
of a fabric you are sewing? Claire Shaeffer provides this key information for 88 of today’s most F
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AB R IC
popular fabrics. In this handy, easy-to-follow reference, she guides you through all the basics while
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providing hints, tips, and suggestions based on her 20-plus years as a college instructor, pattern
designer, and author. F
In each concise chapter, Claire shares fabric facts, design ideas, workroom secrets, and her A
sewing checklist, as well as her sewability classification to advise you on the difficulty of sewing each B
fabric. Color photographs offer further ideas. The succeeding sections offer sewing techniques and R FFoorreewwoorrdd bbyy
advice on needles, threads, stabilizers, and interfacings. Claire’s unique fabric/fiber dictionary cross- I NNaannccyy ZZiieemmaann
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references over 600 additional fabrics.
An invaluable reference for anyone who
sews, Sew Any Fabric provides practical,
clear information for novices and
inspiration for more experienced
sewers who are looking for new ideas
and techniques.
About the Author
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Claire Shaeffer is a well-known and well-
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respected designer, teacher, and author of
a
15 books, including Claire Shaeffer’s Fabric
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Sewing Guide. She has traveled the world
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over sharing her sewing secrets with novice,
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experienced, and professional sewers alike. e
Claire was recently awarded the prestigious r
Lifetime Achievement Award by the
Professional Association of Custom
Clothiers (PACC). Claire and her husband
reside in Palm Springs, California.
A Quick Reference to Fabrics
SAFBean
ISBN:0-87349-643-4 $23.99 A Z
52399 from to
Claire Shaeffer
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0 4608100643 2 9 780873496438
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Foreword by Nancy Zieman
Claire Shaeffer
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©2003 by Claire Shaeffer
All rights reserved.
No portion of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted
in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including
photocopy, recording, or any information storage and retrieval
system, without permission in writing from the publisher, except
by a reviewer who may quote brief passages in a critical article or
review to be printed in a magazine or newspaper, or electronically
transmitted on radio or television.
Published by
Please call or write for our free catalog of publications. To place
an order or obtain a free catalog, please call 800-258-0929.
Library of Congress Catalog Number: 2003108199
ISBN: 0-87349-643-4
Photos page 5 courtesy of Lacy Lovelies Fashion Fabrics (left)
and Simplicity Patterns (right).
Photo page 8 courtesy of Lyn Lackey and Bernina of America.
Photo page 108 courtesy of PtakCouture.com.
Edited by Nicole Gould.
Designed by Marilyn McGrane.
Printed in the United States of America
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Acknowledgments
I wish to thank the many friends, colleagues, home-sewers, and businesses who took
the time to answer questions, make suggestions, and provide photographs for this
book.
• Special thanks to Nancy Zieman for writing the Foreword.
• Barbara Atkins, Diane Faulkner, Linda Fitzerald, Lissa Gay, Vicki Haseman, Ann Ja-
cobi, Dawn Jardine, Bill Jones, Judy Kirpich, Ngai Kwan, Barbie McCormick, Carolyn
Morris, Linda Nicolson, Debbie Ramseyer, Abby Riba, Judith Scroggin-Gridley, Wel-
moed Sisson, and Wanda Stephen for their help with the Sewability classifications.
• Phyllis Tortora and Billie Collier for technical information about textiles.
• Susan Brenne, Ruth Ciemnoczolowski, Marsha Cohen, Tina Colombo, Rochelle
Harper, and Penny Schwyn for sharing their knowledge of various fabrics.
• My colleagues in the Professional Association of Custom Clothiers (PACC) for their
continued support and the wealth of information which they have shared so generously.
• Cheri Collins for developing the stabilizer chart.
• Joy Landeira for general suggestions and criticism.
• Barb Alexander and Lee MacKenzie at Batik Butik, Susan Andriks, Art of Photogra-
phy, Elaine Bakken, Kathy Barnard at Martha Pullen, Dacia Bates and Sandi Bolton
at Lacy Lovelies, Bernina of America, Regina Causemann at Burda, Kathleen
Cheetham at Petite Plus Patterns, Nancy Cornwell, Ila Erickson, Nancy Erickson,
Frank Biemer and Fairfield Processing Co., Inc., Susan Fears, Raffaella Galeotafiore
at Solotu Design Studio, Maria Guzman, Pam Howard, Pamela Isaacs-Erny at Off-
the-Cuff Designs, Lyn Lackey, Jo Leichte at Bernina, Carol Kimbell, Carol Lambeth,
Joi Mahon, Kathy Marrone and Jennifer Fragleasso at The McCall Pattern Co., Karen
Maslowski, Linda MacPhee at MacPhee Outerwear Workshop Ltd., Make It Yourself
With Wool, Eric McMaster and Kimberly Wick at KWIK•SEW®, Monica McMurry,
Tammy O'Connell of Jitney Patterns, Pamela Ptak, Mary Ray, Rochelle Harper Pat-
terns, Debi Shaeffer, Judy Raymond and Maureen Dudley at Simplicity Patterns, Paul
Shanley and Diane Tatara at Wild Ginger Software®, Maj Smith, Gabrielle Stanley,
Lena Stepanenko, Linda Stewart at Joy and Co., Marinda Stewart, Francine Walls,
and Gloria Young for providing photographs.
• Jim Guin at American & Efird, Inc., Wade Roberts at Gutermann, and Vicky Smith
at YLI for providing threads and information about them.
•Fabric Collections, Fashion Sewing Group, Freudenberg Nonwovens, Greenberg &
Hammer, Inc., HTC, Inc., Palmer/Pletsch Inc., Richard Brooks, and Staple Sewing
Aids Corp. for providing interfacing swatches and information about them.
• My editor Niki Gould and the staff at Krause Publications for making my writing look
good.
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Foreword
Claire may not realize this, but her first book, Claire Shaeffer’s
Fabric Sewing Guide, has been a ready reference book on my desk
for years. Now that I’ve had the opportunity to read her updated
book Sew Any Fabric,I have added this second book to my book-
shelf, which houses books that I use on a frequent basis when
preparing for TV shows, writing articles, and answering viewer
questions. I especially appreciate the user-friendly format, easy-
to-follow directions, and practical information. It is a valuable
resource for all sewing enthusiasts. I know that you, too, will
keep this book handy and use it frequently.
Nancy Zieman
President, Nancy’s Notions Producer/Host, Public Television’s
Sewing With Nancy
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Table of Contents
Introduction • 6
Part One • The Fabrics • 8
Any Fabric . . . . . . . . . .9 Denim . . . . . . . . . . . .31 Polyester . . . . . . . . . .70
Acetate . . . . . . . . . . . .15 Double Cloth . . . . . . .32 Quilted Fabric . . . . . .71
Acrylic . . . . . . . . . . . .16 Double-Faced Fabric .33 Raschel Knit . . . . . . . .72
Batiste . . . . . . . . . . . .17 Double Knit . . . . . . . .34 Rayon . . . . . . . . . . . . .73
Beaded and Embroidered Fabric . .35 Rayon Challis . . . . . . .74
Sequined . . . . . . . .18 Faux Fur Fabric . . . . .36 Sandwashed Fabric . . .75
Boiled Wool . . . . . . . .19 Faux Leather . . . . . . .37 Satin . . . . . . . . . . . . . .76
Bouclé . . . . . . . . . . . .20 Faux Suede . . . . . . . .38 Shantung and
Broadcloth and Felt . . . . . . . . . . . . . .39 Doupioni . . . . . . . .77
Chambray . . . . . . .21 Fleece . . . . . . . . . . . . .40 Silk . . . . . . . . . . . . . .78
Brocade . . . . . . . . . . .22 Fur . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .41 Silky . . . . . . . . . . . . . .79
Charmeuse . . . . . . . . .23 Gabardine . . . . . . . . .42 Silk Suiting . . . . . . . . .80
Chenille . . . . . . . . . . .24 Georgette . . . . . . . . . .43 Slinky . . . . . . . . . . . . .81
Chiffon . . . . . . . . . . . .25 Hair Fibers . . . . . . . . .44 Spandex . . . . . . . . . . .82
China Silk . . . . . . . . .26 Handkerchief Linen . .46 Stretch Knit . . . . . . . .83
Corduroy . . . . . . . . . .27 Handwoven Fabric . . .47 Stretch Woven . . . . . .84
Cotton . . . . . . . . . . . .28 Hemp . . . . . . . . . . . . .48 Stripe . . . . . . . . . . . . .85
Crêpe de Chine . . . . .29 Interfacing and Sweater Knit . . . . . . . .87
Damask . . . . . . . . . . .30 Stabilizer . . . . . . . .49 Sweatshirt Knit . . . . . .88 Part Three
Jersey . . . . . . . . . . . . .51 Taffeta . . . . . . . . . . . .89 Fabric / Fiber
Knits . . . . . . . . . . . . .52 Tencel® / Lyocell . . . .90
Dictionary
Lace . . . . . . . . . . . . . .53 Terry Cloth and
118
Lamé . . . . . . . . . . . . .54 Velour . . . . . . . . . .91
Leather and Suede . . .55 Tricot . . . . . . . . . . . . .92
Part Four
Linen . . . . . . . . . . . . .56 Two-way and Four-way
Appendices
Lining and Stretch Knit . . . . . .93
138
Underlining . . . . . .57 Velvet . . . . . . . . . . . . .94
Loosely Woven Fabric 58 Velveteen . . . . . . . . . .95 A - Needles . . . . . . .139
Matelassé . . . . . . . . . .59 Waterproof Fabric . . .96 B - Thread . . . . . . .140
Melton . . . . . . . . . . . .60 Water-Repellent . . . . .97 C - Needle /
Metallic . . . . . . . . . . .61 Wool . . . . . . . . . . . . .98 Thread Guide . . .142
Microfiber . . . . . . . . .62 Wool Crepe . . . . . . .100 D - Burn Test . . . . .143
Mohair . . . . . . . . . . . .63 Woolen . . . . . . . . . . .101
E - Stabilizers . . . . .144
Net and Tulle . . . . . . .64 Wool Flannel . . . . . .102
F - Glossary . . . . . .146
Nylon . . . . . . . . . . . . .65 Wool - Lightweight . .103
G - Interfacings . . .148
Organza . . . . . . . . . . .66 Wool - Textured . . . .104
Plaid . . . . . . . . . . . . . .67 Worsted . . . . . . . . . .105 Resource List
Pleated Fabric . . . . . .69 Zebras . . . . . . . . . . .106
154
Part Two • Sewing Techniques • 108
Bibliography
Seams . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .109
155
Seam / Hem Finishes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .112
Hems . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .113
Index
Edge Finishes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .115
Closures . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .116 156
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Introduction
A quick reference, Sew Any Fabricwas designed to accommodate the busy, hectic schedules of
the twenty-first century. This indispensable guide was written for everyone: home sewers and pro-
fessionals alike who are sewing new fabrics, looking for fresh ideas, improving their skills, or learn-
ing to sew; but it was written especially for anyone who wants good results, but doesn’t have a lot
of time to get them.
Sew Any Fabric’s user-friendly format focuses on 88 of today’s most popular fabrics while the
Fabric/Fiber Dictionary defines and describes an additional 600 fabrics which can be sewn in a
similar manner. Organized for easy reference, this must-have guide provides the practical, up-to-
date information you need to sew any fabric successfully and confidently.
Part One - The Fabrics is arranged in an easy-to-use, A-to-Z format. Each fabric is de-
scribed in a short, concise chapter which includes a brief definition, its Sewability classification, a
list of similar fabrics, suggestions for using the fabric, garment types, and appropriate design de-
tails; a Sewing Checklist; and Workroom Secrets.
The fabric definition describes the fabric and its most important features. This is particularly
important for fabrics which are similar, have the same name, or are part of a large group. For ex-
ample, terry cloth can be a woven or knit, stretch or non-stretch, and each is slightly different.
The unique Sewability classification tells you how easy the fabric is to sew. I have divided the
fabrics into six groups: Very Easy, Easy, Average, Above Average, Challenging, and Very Challeng-
ing so you will know what to expect if you haven’t sewn the fabric before.
Very Above Very
Easy Average Challenging
Easy Average Challenging
The Sewing Checklist summarizes the basic details for the fabric: Essential Supplies, Machine
Setup, and Sewing Basics. The Sewing Checklist is a thimbleful of sewing know-how—everything
you need to know in 30 seconds or less. Here, I have selected the most frequently used methods
which will produce quality results when you have a busy schedule and limited time.
The Workroom Secrets provide additional information, helpful hints, secrets of the trade, and
specific suggestions which apply to that particular fabric. Many of these are based on my experi-
ences as a college instructor for more than twenty years.
Fundamental sewing procedures which are common to all fabrics are described in the first
chapter—Any Fabric. These include selecting needles, threads, and notions; layout, cutting, and
marking techniques; stabilizing seams and edges; tissue and sandwich stitching; eliminating or
changing a seamline; and reducing the sleeve cap.
Part Two- The Sewing Techniquesprovides descriptions and easy-to-follow, step-by-step
details for sewing the seams, hems, edge finishes, and closures which I have recommended in
the fabric chapters. To maximize your time, these directions feature quality techniques with lit-
tle hand sewing. To expand your knowledge of garment construction, consult my earlier books:
Claire Shaeffer’s Fabric Sewing Guide, Couture Sewing Techniques, High Fashion Sewing Secrets, and The
Complete Book of Sewing Short Cuts.
6 • Introduction
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Part Three- The Fabric/Fiber Dictionarydescribes an additional 600 fabrics. In
addition to the definition, I have included a cross reference to a similar fabric(s) in Part
One - The Fabrics.
Part Four- The Appendicesare a mini-encyclopedia filled with additional mate-
rial regarding sewing machine needles, threads, needle/thread guide, interfacings, stabi-
lizers, fiber identification, sewing terms, and a resource list. Here, you will find useful
answers to frequently asked questions.
How to Use This Book
Sew Any Fabricis an indispensable guide for sewers at all skill levels.
Begin with the first chapter—Any Fabric. I exercised a little poetic license here
since “Any” isn't really the first alphabetically; but the information in this chapter ap-
plies to every fabric, every time you sew. It is so important that I didn’t want you to
miss it.
Review the chapter on the fabric you plan to sew. For some fabrics, you will want
to read about similar fabrics as well.
If your fabric is not listed as a chapter in Part One - The Fabrics, look for it in the
index; many will be listed as a Similar Fabric. Others will be described in Part Three -
The Fabric/Fiber Dictionary with a cross reference for sewing suggestions.
Review the step-by-step directions for various sewing techniques—seams, hems,
edge finishes, and closures—in Part Three - The Sewing Techniques. Make some
samples to fine-tune old skills, learn new skills, or determine which techniques you
like best.
If you are a novice or need a quick refresher course, review the Appendices. You
will find the additional material particularly useful.
Check out the needle, thread, and interfacing charts. Similar products are grouped
together so you are not limited if your favorites are not available.
Look for unfamiliar sewing terms in the Glossary - Appendix F.
To reap the most from this book, read it every time you sew. Make notes in it.
Highlight the things you like; cross out what you don't. Experiment with new fabrics;
and add your own experiences.
Sew Any Fabric was written for you. From the beginning, this book has focused
on basic, quality techniques, how they are applied to today's most popular fabrics,
and how you can apply what you already know to sew any fabric successfully. Use it
to develop your confidence and skills.
There will always be new fabrics to inspire, excite, and delight you. Some fabrics
will be more challenging than others; but, with the knowledge you have acquired in
the past, you can meet these challenges and unravel their secrets to sew any fabric
successfully.
7 • Introduction
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part 1
The
Fabrics
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e
g
a
Any Fabric
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here are many variables when sewing different fabrics and, sometimes, when
sewing the same fabric; but there are some basic principles and techniques which will
ensure success when sewing any fabric.
I begin Sew Any Fabric with Any Fabric, even though it is not first alphabetically.
Here, I describe in detail the tools, supplies, and techniques which I personally use and
recommend throughout the book. If you are a novice, you will learn various techniques
which you can apply to all fabrics. If you haven’t sewn for a while, I’ll introduce you to
my favorite notions and a few new techniques. If you are more experienced, you will
find a quick review of techniques
which I have taught for many
years.
There are hundreds of differ-
ent fabrics available today, but
many are sewn using similar
techniques. Sew Any Fabric fo-
cuses on the 88 most popular or
frequently sewn fabrics. In each
chapter, I have included a list of
Similar Fabrics which are sewn
in a similar manner as well as
suggestions in the Fabric and
Fiber Dictionary to guide you
when sewing an additional 600
fabrics.
Almost every fabric can be
used for a variety of designs from
everyday casual garments to high
fashion evening wear. The photo-
graphs and list of Design Ele-
ments provide a guide for creat-
ing designs and choosing
patterns.
I have selected a variety of de-
signs to inspire and excite you. ®
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Some are my own while others S
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came from students, colleagues, WI
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designers, and pattern compa- of
nies. Most are simply styled to urtesy
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showcase the fabric attractively. A o c
ot
few are innovative originals; but h
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many similar patterns are avail- Worsted • Simply styled, this chic jacket has a relaxed fit and
easy-to-sew collar.
able at your local retailers.
The models are just as diverse as the designs. Some are professionals while others are
home-sewers like you and me. Some models are pencil thin; others, pleasingly plump.
Some are very young; others, not so young.
Part 1 • The Fabrics • 9