OIi EYEWITNESTSR AVEL Seville &Andalucfa Thgeu idtehsas th oywo wuh aott heornslt yey lolu EYEWITNESS TRAVEL Seville & Andalucía EYEWITNESS TRAVEL Seville & Andalucía Project EditorAnna Streiffert Art EditorRobert Purnell Introducing Seville Seville Editors Marcus Hardy, Jane Oliver and Andalucía Area by Area Designers Malcolm Parchment, Katie Peacock Picture Research Monica Allende, Discovering Seville Seville at a Glance 64 Naomi Peck and Andalucía 10 DTP Designers Samantha Borland, El Arenal 66 Sarah Martin Putting Seville and Main Contributors Andalucía on the Map 16 Santa Cruz 74 David Baird, Martin Symington, Nigel Tisdall Photographers A Portrait of Andalucía 20 La Macarena 88 Neil Lukas, John Miller, Linda Whitwam Illustrators Andalucía Through Parque María Luisa 96 Richard Draper, Isidoro González-Adalid the Year 38 Cabezas (Acanto Arquitectura y Urbanismo Across The River 104 S.L.), Steven Gyapay, Claire Littlejohn, The History of Seville Maltings, Chris Orr, John Woodcock A Guided Walk 110 and Andalucía 44 Printed in China Seville Street Finder 112 First published in the UK in 1996 by Dorling Kindersley Limited 80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL 17 18 19 20 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Reprinted with revisions 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004, 2006, 2008, 2010, 2012, 2014, 2016, 2018 Copyright © 1996, 2018 Dorling Kindersley Limited, London A Penguin Random House Company All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior written permission of the copyright owner. A CIP catalogue record is available from the British Library. ISBN 978-0-2413-0601-7 Floors are referred to throughout in The Patio de la Acequia (Courtyard of the Main Canal) in the Generalife palace, Granada accordance with European usage; ie the “first floor” is the floor above ground level. The information in this DK Eyewitness Travel Guide is checked regularly. Every effort has been made to ensure that this book is as up-to-date as possible at the time of going to press. Some details, however, such as telephone numbers, opening hours, prices, gallery hanging arrangements and travel information are liable to change. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for any consequences arising from the use of this book, nor for any material on third party websites, and cannot guarantee that any website address in this book will be a suitable source of travel information. We value the views and suggestions of our readers very highly. Please write to: Publisher, DK Eyewitness Travel Guides, Dorling Kindersley, 80 Strand, London, WC2R 0RL, UK, or email: [email protected]. Title page Magnificent domed ceiling of the Museo de Bellas Artes, Seville Front cover image Patio de las Doncellas (Courtyard of the Maidens), Real Alcázar, Seville Back cover image Cliffslide buildings in the mountain city of Ronda Contents Andalucía Travellers’ Needs Survival Guide Area by Area Andalucía at Where to Stay 212 Practical a Glance 124 Information 254 Where to Eat Huelva and Sevilla 126 and Drink 220 Travel Information 264 Córdoba and Jaén 138 Shops and Markets 238 General Index 274 Cádiz and Málaga 162 Entertainment Phrase Book 287 in Andalucía 244 Granada and Almería 188 Outdoor Activities and Specialist Holidays 248 A traditional hand-painted ceramic plate The Plaza de España in Parque María Luisa, Seville The Alhambra in Granada 6 HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE This guide helps you to get the most from describe the important sights, with your stay in Seville and Andalucía. It provides maps, pictures and detailed illustrations. both expert recommendations and detailed Suggestions on what to eat and drink, practical information. Introducing Seville accommodation, shopping and entertainment and Andalucíííaa maps the region and sets it are in Travellers’ Needs, and the Survival in its historical and cultural context. Seville Guide has tips on everything from Area by Area and Andalucíííaa AArreeaa bbyy AArreeaa transport to using public telephones. Seville Area by Area SEVILLE AREA BY AREA75 The centre of Seville has been SANTA CRUZ All pages relating to central dauiwdnAiptltnohrspuierriecfveee tosm oaiahasracdrewtse mrbeefaM.Abin ibnAAA edf aywlttlai erccco eh stciepmirrrdinctdh tooood aa.h.t o a anTssstr oiAianosssefpkhn flnrtaf ittttleo nnohhhh mted.t rhugueeeeEdhr a,epe m ra eeRRRpiws a tlcs tiiiic o sesgcvvvaihhehghiteeehrihg aitloiaharrrcece sth wsprhmmtsdaydeitss gt l s eao etaawoo ho earpkkhnh.rt rieede neea iasssrnes ge n rs , CALLEVELAZQUEZTETUANTqtcsGtptttmwCAehhhhiLFoLhEuaPgRoSAVhISDEALRloPDaeeeEAESLrAd ellCaONDAhtSNpTIiaT nUetnC IOENSotChC MrrsAN tBAccrIeOSIehutSnApAhfsiAGDeRCrePeeaNcdw CLriNEOamT AUOcvLSlEOaUiaHN Isw rEreNSaEJRoMSoNsEhLcEA,apTR drANsArDLO RCeUnNAAPaAA TaLifie CsiClELAUAVLUaQNLZEWIEiRoNANsAAVVVVALLL v ConRTnZEdRAOtnDhGt LEO iDgPdAEO ohAShatnndNidgLeoYOueDGdsÑVTErP eARee L’EgLDEE NPRAdPAdsLweRJ rFI oCAl rLLETARA LeniLdGRA lut T LNRSCO AROsT ZV reAcOdeauEbASIsaAeZSoTIrU RGsSORENILeCiC A zaExtJR.pGaNaretIAOIhrA COEraHEDFnrnpyDSSYlLtneeNAONeUEe EL EElh.dJL ELw lSE dntLeeLnoAMMLaUSaeEiVOAtI nLiaI S rrAMth lN atsRN oSacadLCMAhcsAhR.UAACseJO fáSEGNtnCL,ALhQiATrNAAeL ItG DEnBPirOURwMuizwEES AEDy ohIaZARSeL E DtSLEfEFOmeaIVDCPCSzAs JErDEnUnLe:hhAIOÑLoDLOR GrRoOsCE ,GCL RRAIMDtRAIl BtA ANU ooRLiNO RfaSaEaUÁwhEmLAiAAEtdZRA LLnELMOsEsNtTEernenBSZFFFNNe EeAAAADhAAiStOetEOg DAOOO LvtdIdNM t LLSS iRUaTlÑCROAec OphFFFXDsEERE hBZiGdAARIGYm AlmPRAYlUatPPI cEMGlL UiSOleLRPPPbEOFoEAD EEteRICcTOeAAA vSLlDGoBSONFFFZahascBAAARReUtOBIyOcA’SE eCOsAnODTTTBaeVNIZrRuSázGPAAEeNESsuNsILAE rLTOkDSrEFe qoAzJAAR rNt LnLAPgEEUmaStJAr UZOAeL-aL RGulASEoAo oCoSErkOndDENANsLFrTOHeODeeONCRlyiD RnfINu;qGIAd DSAorCAJC CNIE DaAJSnsAAaAEaNGAaNRLoLsEO IuJL ReLTmCUMttEBRUEIAIpRltDMUnO lCVSDIAwEC MeAOEwEEdsDEoUFMSIEELJIAaASSCdLINIéLP SNBRIE ERCaALnNSfÍR AAtiAAAPID IAZ sRES iDE;LALZ ERDAL SohLAOSCEALBSOACRMEsLAL EALLIEASP MLENRRCLECPCC AHDEAEELRRELDDILOSA SEECLAAALSEwdwoIcbtAgtiAANRCNntANhhZSAACIhsLATOfeeayMMsAALZhiFYINLEtES tAeeCEtA aNccJmuSUoARVGueEaEIIihAFT ROAONEoPrlkRDLe ognAZ bUdDerUR mASRIt PERdArfvItRZoDrrOtNLTO hajRiaEEhhSEenaarEniSEifDLOnSEGelLtNoLABnV ieAmacARlaPReOeSAUsCA Ee pegLtMrctI dNA’nB ci esYnisD MwneO tPou Iad CtOEENtfyDnEfof NERGhelGnRrra OaoaLa mOtoirOiaevtlçl ronztCDAlLLuEeqDERlE o CARaoEhaDEaOHtC m cautduhr , elho dínkeibre apvraeseei dnsuvtfeopn tlr e 1a sad teridaSs tyh6annss rqaa h111111SSSa289eC47H13560qw rthaetccdC892345671lluyhn012345tehe voiiihr ord sa,Cgg dats uri eaCPJSRPIPAMCAHeticpJgnileea’tDDHMEOLSEVABCCC earoaRRelrl eLhhaasydlroGusaaelsrueecvpcaeaalllta ieeloaaulsstreedatooar z.nzsillabtioTttshehanaM nlas eiiccsnossslr cpanarraiQ GssizñnoelcmerASssnaid i,aarrne eeny r,ir ttattvadati S so MooaiVdaar dutrl ,S e irBaritaa druus Csoc giagPR iae a aaRalo ii eddreaiethsmiVpeqdd rrádEuuuaua linme laoderrlog eh led BtrePárttrdenlzd erSudeeetrrserpyiaTtvibecs lecp csiceais hlea aaa laAaaeolsPsetrLaaai nd.e, S l.tkanohli rreni1 BV t nnn er edeIt oopuz rsaavA BtMitnlirN dpe eaCt o boldse 7nattaopolGG senTorfafigrdpavissrusabersaeasld8el e gftlsa8eiiasu i totodf jrsll a2lVhpaltsaa6dsétl eioh maaeabaoFs–lescwpté i– l or rdlonofss3cenhh.nnla27oibsr y ead,eeeRme 2 ne cc y Lasred8ntae eee, ey–o b tn e9au lcselors, y 1SSSlcaSisanteiirggttvdesehhi AtlaFFFelgtGolhttiiihteronnnrsssaece ee hrldddaaaa l yaecaasntteeet:hrvl ie drrraaCsigMeea do oohh GGpPsr ,uannel totsllaHeaarsdph zncppr inn asah o’ts Ftaaccsha reow,soeeegg u siermg,r imnee tcn Mhcess abBu.ot aups11u mnt ssbi.11aey l Tdbytb66u hhir s––nmee.eeg22rfse es11 Ss,dr it..egr eanhencttsde , you are in relation to other areas of the city centre. Smeae pasl s1o, 2S,t r4e, e5t, F6inder 00 myaerdtrses 400400 Mudéjar tiles in the Patio de las Doncellas (Courtyard of the Maidens) at Real Alcázar For keys to symbols see back flap SANTA CRUZ77 Acs2to rsevueegSTvsrtssigihtg etirenihhwses e ttetg h seomtieedv-f oe b aetrrirhosyene ue-againS.t hebttae rerifrreoeeadreasr ’tats.ti - n owMegfya aelekpa c h aTaS7TcmsadJwrrSeeneheonarheiessvodiwtdunt secit.ih 1s ld kdvpia hliLrttm8eesEeeseuou al n’thrsde SednhnMg crowa G neamra- geiczimrpaorcsv itnne eegrho GelyoaiassCa tal ssrecnato hroltoslitoi niteinidóttnlals tPofolpumlvn tfthh aCne-deuao ni psro(pi cnsaycsdsbl a,bapstttae ,ei toiaek o heAcc,rutchatd ldrnaetpst roeillyer ro eoaac8ut b tdee ru hdt4hrolRpw erya Ah )w er-srbewnc e asiaSi derigossstaoSaseszelr oqtt hh rmlaorawvb r d ratuAolraiebt esla ep clrpe.aeltiede rrcAsach’a Vs’ tss pEaá ho sNcbee wPIclzaaD amtl Aatulaceln.eeroDl, eiEa armAymrdtllLA CgOcNdlhstSrss T eehIuyowt,seoTTi UUn,.wpth eaCndo:IrgOlr iioeaN edreoswSltlta,sdlulh i iawesoanes tnanans nig mtod t.tv h snpgfehGii xsScrSlueoaei ehett oiozert.vav.faaa xdi rOilurslpal li ebnpesc ae taCct na-csemerttd,sr e tiiar atsahfds lrtunoe kicdwre ez te r- 8HhbbSayyoA sr JJN PsooaTelnssOa ééc zTe aLLaaOraa rrVMliffyaiiAitt rgSaa2ge..0est nhli -nMIdcGeUeeEL nt lhotMuiAssÑr pRyAR lefAaoyzuean swtRahOiniMc EhR OM MAUTREUOBES GAGOROODRRAIGCO PLEV LIDDVIAOMRÑSAUEASSOONANJADMEEXGRILDLCTavbvMAONaanhMERaaIAurditNlAsiOhlEel ettZs,tPRs a tyiEIM srMpOt Ne hoICpaJaEIeUafSsNat tSttO Te rbT RaAitasIoEpaNir IcfsOeraiuNs l sGDl.tlO e.ahEBSad rCNealgO yEAr wrV Lo GepELitmEoihrJapLa OslOuidoNnP laEausDS rDvaEoA EfeLtNf o nRNaATTTrUi GAAoriMEt U.ssD 2hAo TAw,ooE wiRprdiEissedThhBwtSh h Ahaoae rsim sol .ao q1e ss7u f pHVtoehlere oc -nLSnescPhEeGoldpLeeLdeuuCTteiW(a ci AnnrisAhSdedrhntaaeaaZRctttarlealrqiecoEubltylheAsusy llN Soihe Av preh la. riapAT tryeparei5 jdliLlFrAcl nóPsnlrs 7oaMioeniátglnC)etnnoydra ziLaRtssnn te aArzdotatc-preUeg rasf,aMlnr e iZdmo dyo wl SAg llSe AnIe saCrbAalaNdspdAgivmly TngsR lif sAas n pEr5itau potNdC–goaa naARNms6et fU eCfio ooeZ sr1r.rs uns26. za.9 t2ies. d8MCETa(ptoiimfgRPititboN(paasCB8mtsnossahhqna nnhisloryrfrao eeawlaou rb4 otoaAOeeec eau toddepltmeecpnhpMsaanhnPlsth tnqhta nee oA1eervopp oe cep upMte3gaenuraitlnda 8saesee rl8plslne het naa rPeeoemiCcqu i t1t uanFh,2nfs5 tn(tcri era h ahoi2osnhuir:6soa)ftretsei6g tçes leóeez ,ri, hob bn naata t(en r–tl ae ntthe6nSanilchoihd iry olicis haoonhd7gne d cesRt hnetaecpS D p CirEa.)heacJrg is oi le seohsd osp.na8oaitl4popl, ne Vego of se hAaVwd1fr u )la lacAuhlsot nat cl.acsipad- beh o) éloclmrbyPiimerodhosjI.sfctht oes’saaswzuy iaEl,ruui de LniLftmir etei Poirotcsl tp ncpnoaPgarser aZl hetaee.ptteytp bLyoc wphca omlras fCyrbueo wat se,ii i-eBspial 2otoptethoccE sitsanr uf r,iachadirpaha 0 iib nopseoa eAcndennp sio,sn treese lctvallan Aaeqwrdt doli uahAhlCm eda a zesuSaarprl, Gouicq o z nr-áhnoearirenefizbousotimcRrirfsarbtiunnsddefeahóeb vbcrgioore e rtaiaaae i gd1 s riaEan le hssmngfil dgepnlpc lo8dns. d ,ei tueti A.aadedeaAn1 urdeha l ln snl 0t r aee , y rB YwTtawdEfSMopt9MTwtecWStRecicStt neheohrheio hhpleeaaenelAitmmaahaa asioueT aenrrvvPaymeega t pststqlittohtPr mhRii looctiiA ousV u hh ll lonfcbbuorp3nehAlld)ehyrsisreereeqq,olfEp’ reuestn ecaea i Cql ga P alOnucHcuuL wnhaC–o hisrvc 2gAu ldbláiioiagg aautrvea nle te fsaziiara(meooz veet yfnkke ba6ztert ta s iat aohoafMgi ai’eevtha l nssaao ot fC Dor,thlfgrtu a eoa u esnthto cbdVngid s(ahes4eteln rgollmsded edv esyui) rheour,reeae (sr.P etysevcalr C o g1nb iuvtt eneleawo’aleI.s coaait anv7iob aedteblpnc . 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ttsaaiiaoel koorrlvltey.cee nna b b ivitfllollloilioycaednl.caps e akl . dur ei.ss eK e00 ymya Sderudtrgsegses ted rou50te50 For hotels and restaurants in this area see p216 and pp228–9 HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE 7 ANDALUCÍA AREA BY AREA139 CÓRDOBA AND JAÉN CMCagalnóaósotdroroedd twBroooiasbba hrtyaaoh s, pqe p wta urogtoieti rtvohe htis arnie,ett ci s apswe s mrn uieoloadnrverglciitnsnfoh ecsimef eurirce’cpsnes ha benA seartsnvs aemd euPsas tort liiohusfeuqfceg lutí oaMRhe' eesd oa n esmnnta tCadioisrló uls paaranrd tnaettonratcabtiedynca tt M.roi aJowoannérng.i nlsee’ ssos . mfw Úoinbueen dttoaawi nann psda a sBnsaedes z aar, e 1TaInnhtder olcadhnuadrcsatcciaotepnre o, hf iesatocrhy AInn thdisa bluocoíka, AAnrdeaalu bcíya hAarse baeen CtcactwiqldpAuoeahtohhaegnxn fiuoaózCeinl eeppnsldesaodatrtaóg tdtihato r laGIutle crtisu tt–noavanpdahllaeduharal erbsn oem lyra, taacmoei sswaidk rpbd.nta i sve e,eatmaT i ioas ageg c ot ono nwta’wlhwts r ollqnfld ehdro ea t a2seiseu smmh et srnAuspv,bu 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ati oagró ta.oheol. naraisteTkrrs,eo re e zeddM h eA kseststioodaop gnnher a,nsoh frat btha ao secbld soioaaRt.rrna twiy aevk,ure Dsí sc iolaerl,nrsbu ,iern rn n ho ace dg/ssíras . rshcoeheffagonsei wtordusnei rnt ivhiegsees ldh o aveopnisswedcitd r owti bhro heetvoad eatd r rh iaettehy ar. ee , decsnihauigvcamhihdptb estoe edtfror .w ieT nvdhhti oseioci tnfhm oh auhoa ravRs tsede iiagbns itetsoieenenrpcneata sl rrtMaeintgaegip o .ns, 140ANDALUCÍA AREA BY AREA CÓRDOBA AND JAÉN141 The cRitoyw osf oJaf égnra wniitteh aitnsd s pmeacrtbalceu ETfCMdeBtodRpleahuhiaaófdoerlirol enesacxeiCerttslsarrtd ti z Bsrata le,Roee rh e oaEapmfarazneede n mctd bbtomdGnghaadoééé ehrwaeb rzzzzrndla liMu liatolaaa lRBidiawo Hdi aoaelloewrtnesloE,g odmh ose tmioFOrÚ amwtrihi orau aistlhnlbbhnbhdnoboefelhasé eqi - iaisnte rgz cIsjti tbotbnlouauctharstdshieei leoonrbcuh plirifalveaiveaaeariaa gcZZZ.dnio ieln lmrkrnúúúúco jjjjF da .gd f rcaa vsSogrrrfreitu oHcPD toIeoaoflhryrCpAi uiiPPo rEtleEDmnnweo 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aamsootl ibl hhev noseaaewi. ndinsbrn eetgyo r rs aeifoc e arttaasethnrd i ,ane a r gles o For additional map symbols see back flap CÓRDOBA AND JAÉN151 3oAowlnRtibDniosetuunleiftlwhtog mie tthleedrihando marbiiie nnnolicpen eadigahrrlmd t ailiosc in vceo M ipriaigtendnndyona set ufg,r o dporttrtai,yohn .var olfWl em e noyvitmnrt.hlii eal stT otehoip thotiwrisin o ewona s diryri tnnntgeeh eaga sa htednr acatet tesihhn l.ae edldt SomiifficLnnnuuooirntt oll uarllpooWwc edlooraa hlenttta lffitlihh yts ztteieffaosieeowllaooo r, ap r hhdnawwwslahyoons aeeeht uuddtiinrrnioi ss cssmdJ ee hhguaa ..el uadddiiBBsvsrmdde,rr id aiinrf ccbtteaítgaookk nmlt e hqraastt oihh,hTerrTul ycciboee loaehhh me ahdrmcceee tnphhtseassoehd eaa,,rrrw stest ccrrrs, a mm yeooo aosit Prllhnf pc oooe ooatfida uuahsffbarl a lrreaietti unffnlhhtd iuutti cifleeBa elltlbi assl att r oyieeiissronll srp eemccu iiAssosacoon,,ac n ooOMSdii nerrdrlloaaoo sy etanaan .nnhgdi lnnTn fuewwiBisdd ht ts ta reoo 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TPhéree hz iBstaorrqicu ecrreost of the Bodega Ftoepaitcus roefs p gairvteic iunlfaorr mintaetrioesnt .on A8C£Thónurtdi@ Ag&ou bFgoran i.P. uRo osCiiatulodea (sm9tra5a 7dp e6 C 6J2 e1.s 5*ú 6s 72 1),. 3E(d,5i0f iT0cu.i oe , Mlhlliaagatmohevoe tpe rtevsihse,l eehwnc -pihtnsraitgictcyi.h olbe nui nolb wtsh , e Aoppcofaaz lsttuoihtol,ue esdr ,jrf eoauecdsglo ,dd ioariia snnrtpeg’eslm aMmtyoi.noa tdnoheyrei rsi rh Caittrhhtoateenrn aps cgcterrtaieivltvaeaeesttsl ey oaw rpudehtae sitcsiidiohge nfs.rceordme e n Awprmer emaoclnevla nyitdir ntapersdada aitl tiw ioffoeosana utttaeonulrldt ryaeaa n iyond.f or CiwThPiamt h oleBhhaepuraiozacrosraeuhmoer s dtqsawiea,creu sneaas e Sn s,tt s hwadcspeeenl vriottno e httcJoledroeeka wud salte céo nsniitnge.wd sBh ih R geiuoantonr-lil. llsmieA.tv i Nduegianere nuoi daa1 iitllrl8 ai bma1r,yr 0ee i,s s. 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