Scotland - Orkney - Irresistible Islands

20 Pages·2008·7.464 MB·English

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KIRKWALL27 KEY TO STREET MAP17Orkney Ferries: Shapinsay Terminal1 Visitor Information Centre18Orkney Ferries: North Isles Terminal2 St Magnus Cathedral19Kirkwall Marina3The Orkney Museum 20Orkney College4 St Magnus Centre21Swimming Pool/Sports Centre5 Bishop’s Palace22Highland Park Distillery6 Earl’s Palace23Balfour Hospital & Health Centre7Bowling Green/Playing Fields 24Skateboard Park8 Orkney Islands Council25Pickaquoy Sports Centre/Cinema/Campsite9 Orkney Arts Theatre26Golf Course10Orkney County LibraryEV27NorthLink Ferries Terminal/Tickets11Post OfficeIRD Parking12PBus Station & Travel CentreERO TH Toilets13Police StationSNIA Berthing/Disembarking14NorthLink Ferries - TicketsRDGAO Pontoon15Orkney Wireless MuseumR S16Orkney Ferries OfficeSENWORCSSENRAC ODTLEIFEIGGCRIRKAAAIIRRGINAECSFIHPELOD RREO ADROACDSRPOARWRNDEORS SWROHCTAARIEDWSAKCL DGERRDA KDNEDOTTRSARI FRWADAOERSUDKFISSH RWDEWEYYLLSCOTATS ROAANDVISITOR19D NPADRK BDINFORMATIONADAYGARRIRSONO RDCRRORM WEETLOLLST TCRLOAR18MEENSWESSWKMAOMUENTORD DBRRACORRET TS20 KERRO17DHOSCCNRRWOOP16TAMMAYLRWWEPEE YSRETLLDALLSTSEDDRRTR HUIOWBLCRLAHATRPHB14LCERA D15IAROCIRD DTSEABUNRENLMGOUPTH ROEKRAPA DELEIFDNNA’EKIS FPRSMNAOTUPN13NTT HAOSSOL I’WTREIR NLSLBDENLERPSOETTRA TNREWE DDRBR11AOTAUU24DERL CLRH12ABEDRQINENILE GFP9A TDRISGTACQLPDNELKEUSDKIA25IOPRMTAAPANIFDQALLESLPC DOCWRAILUECS SSL TRR LOSRG10EEETYA DSTSNILTTN1HN V ERAM IATSTERTGDKORNDSWTLYUEIASPN LAD2ALTDLAADDNOMOSEPUDWPPAEADPIRDRAESLRESEAI3 OWDPDLDACL PEPCARRPREDDHASLEB8 RTTOAONANKEDT4RNAESOSAS LNNL EOPE PLROALTA PW5CGETI YILRHSDOTA 6WUCRTREIQNDTEE CASRTESSU R7KASHCDOGLJICASULTPTQUOEEN SONJKA KLOSSSNEI TSR DTDRAPLSA AAWIGGRRLRAITSNEASSO OPOARHKPDCG T21TGRACNHNTEEOIVIEVMKSNMAESAC LSORESESDLOTTH NSUSLYNSITKOOETN U NSTNQAEAOFGSSBRIASAOTLMRENSUGV CAAULONACLYE ISLLAOKEMANTNCTIAWNTTISG RLNNSAAIMORRTRETENGOEDUECNASSIDLS TD BSLLRTEETOOSYWAOARSEDEKWCN RNOBTOSSAAT RONPSHNTROGEOKEIHNTN ERMAMNSE RDSAOIKEMFVWVMCISIERRACRDRAOEDKDSOLWHRTI RACHRKNAESI DUOTBDDYIVRMWRRISRN ALABIGNOLDVRTELELROA BTDERALAHMNNOCPARKIEAPOBF23CRCROERRSIEI LEOORBAAHNLAELITEGASPIPELRSQUCOY RDLSGOGIINDSNANE R OSDICTLWTCAREDROLEEKRPSNN ACIALREPKSAQNCACUPRTASS OOC CYOADUKBARITDALPRHNOAKKRSOLICHCARLRPN4MRED6SSO 9CR R OEOAAONDTTAD ROYAL OAK RDNAOLI NELGHAAODLNSTMAE ESOBSR ARNKCIOHA RRD3KD5W0A9LBL ENE1LP BLAO6KAERIOLV9ARUWLAEPA PPOEATO SOUTHRNARTKCATSRONALDSAY SRO22ETB kirkwall town ma Orkney
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STROMNESS KEY TO STREET MAP1 Visitor Information Centre, Northlink Ferries Booking Office & Marina Facilities2Northlink Ferries Departure Pier 3 Stromness Marina4 Bus Stop5 Primary School6 Town House7 Hoy Departure Pier 8 Pier Arts Centre9 Post Office10Old Academy Business Centre11Community Centre / Play Area12Town Hall13Library14Stromness Museum15Login’s Well16The Cannon17George Mackay Brown Memorial Garden18Bowling Green19Golf Course20Camp Site21Swimming Pool / Fitness Suite22Squash Court23Stromness Academy & Playing FieldsT24Garson Industrial EstateEENEParkingAPRLT T ToiletsSSENI Berthing/DisembarkingNHDPWAOPontoonOORJDKCAB4 DABANK OLANER5NIL6KNAGRIRE7VTEPFSHIP 8B9R10AEBOYS LANEC11HRISTIES UBHRRCCAHTERDS12SOUTHSPRAINGIEFNAL ESINAMPIERROETULOT RCDEWOARRTE&OB TEBTLWHACNCK CRRIAIDGVMANSEPARK FRANKLIN RDHPEUFLFELR’DSI TCLHOASSEOOLSER ARDKDCNAUB13DENALEDTSRSULIGHTHOUSE PIER NOWDHOEETRTREIHHFFTAWRELDAVNELAAO14R KCAB15CITADETLN EDR16CISVEERCDLNEDEATHICTYUOUQOSNAMSYOKHRAPDEASOUROSHSDER17NAUG18 1920 stromness t UKBn R seoTjeetwauiownsit ctttiTWet qaeke&lhuulr oxe WneerStora aioy lLetleont,f y soi &sftomlt t en h tnrWaWh gaaeasnedys ilcnidc hnesaWPeo ie tapr eouyv Sen nsltneieetu sttteeso kui prir vrtnfy,deaphy e’ fiTl,sireltyor ineh h-eH fiecih eesrnknu ho h n odemhSOamoifesetcn eprtttseaoekg h ,ic rSgn dtieotnasre nw afnogmhY y fOedaf eet assben Karlenweaptydri l,, r eeHe iGksnc22oc wouar o00tpoammila00roslfueilto66neeelr...
7 - 15 Broad Street, Kirkwall, Orkney KW15 1DH www.visitorkney.com
Tel: [phone] [email protected] www.olagorie.com
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A beautifully filmed journey through Orkney highlighting many traditions, crafts, and local culture.
21 getting to orkney A guide to 40 walks around Orkney, maps and illustrations......................................£9.00 ■■ 40 minutesDVD (not suitable for USA & Canada).................................................£12.00 ■■ (cid:24)
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71 town maps Postage rest of world add 20% ........................................£_____________ (cid:11)(cid:30)! (cid:28)(cid:2) (cid:11)(cid:5)(cid:8) (cid:28) A - Marwick Head- Sea Cliff
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TOTAL GOODS & POSTAGE & PACKAGING ......................£_____________ ’(cid:15)(cid:2)(cid:13)
To Order: C - Copinsay- Sea Cliff
Please mark ■✓in the box against the items required, then complete How to Pay: (cid:16)(cid:16) (cid:1)(cid:18)!*(cid:16)(cid:4)(cid:7)(cid:15)(cid:16)(cid:16) ’(cid:2)(cid:29)((cid:18)(cid:5) D - North Hill- Maritime Heath
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Text by Duncan McLean ___________________________________Post code: _______________ Signature of cardholder: __________________________________________ #!(cid:29)(cid:29)(cid:16)(cid:4)(cid:1)(cid:2)(cid:3) :(cid:5)(cid:28)(cid:12) P - Trumland- Moorlands
Photography by: Aurora Jewellery, Jim Adams, Leonard Bain, Ian Cooper,Explorer Fast Sea Charters, Keith Farrer, Roy Firth, What to do now: Post or Fax the completed coupon to: 49#(cid:18)(cid:5)(cid:2) (cid:16)
Gavin Fraser, Lesley Gordon, Rik Hammond, John Hinkley, Hume Sweet Hume, Chris Jex,K4 Graphics, Drew Kennedy, Michael Macleod, Daytime telephone____________________________________________ VisitOrkney,6 Broad Street, Kirkwall, Orkney KW15 1NX R - Onziebust - Farmland
59° North,Orkney Folk Festival, Ola Gorie, Orkney Hand Crafted Furniture, The Orkney Herring Company,
e-mail ______________________________________________________ Fax [phone]
Andy Sales, Iain Sarjeant, Lousie Scott, Carly Simpson, Joshua Spicka, Tait & Style, Twist Design & Photography, Yellowbird Gallery. /%61’(cid:7)(cid:24)(cid:11)(cid:11)
(cid:11)((cid:18)(cid:2)2(cid:16) (cid:15)(cid:18)
Maps based upon Ordnance Survey mapping with permission of the controller of Her Majesty’s Stationery Office © Crown Copyright. OIC LA08722X.
Printed by The Orcadian Limited. 69 1’;(cid:14)(cid:11)4 70
The Orkney Islands are truly
irresistible. From sandy beaches
to towering cliffs, from peaceful
lochs to rocky skerries,
the 70 islands that make up
our archipelago offer every
kind of enchantment.
But there’s more to seduce you than
just the scenery. The clear northern
waters around us produce seafood
that is fresh and flavoursome.
Our beer and whisky is world-renowned.
And our farmers, whose ancestors
have worked the same land for
five thousand years, know a thing
or two about raising delicious
livestock and produce.
Ah yes, those five thousand years of
history! Nowhere else will you find the
distant past so alive. Maybe it’s the
lack of trees, which meant everything
had to be built of nice, long-lasting
stone. Or maybe it’s the Orcadians’
natural respect for their environment.
But the result is a landscape dotted
with innumerable archaeological
wonders, from Viking churches to
Stone Age villages, many of them
preserved in stunning condition. You’ll
feel as if the inhabitants might come
strolling out to shake your hand.
And what could be more irresistible
than the Orkney people?
Hard working, highly creative – don’t
miss the inspired artistry of our
craftspeople, in wood, silver, wool and
welcome to
more – and, at the end of the day,
devoted to hospitality and the
personal touch. You’ll hear great
music and amazing stories, you’ll
Orkney
be given the warmest of welcomes
and urged, on your departure, to
come back soon.
No wonder so many friends
are drawn back year after year,
and new visitors fall under its
enchantment every day.
Orkney: why resist?
For information on other areas in Scotland go to www.visitscotland.com
VisitScotland is committed to ensuring that our natural environment and built heritage, upon which
our tourism is so dependent, is safeguarded for future generations to enjoy.
1
Island
Many Orcadians are firmly convinced that they
live on the Mainland, with the rest of Britain
being an insignificant offshore island just to the hopping
south. But when we talk about visiting the isles
we mean magical places even closer to home.
The first island seafarers from south encounter is Hoy,
which presents a massive rampart of red sandstone
cliffs to the south and west. The highest hills in Orkney
are here, as well as some of its most evocative
monuments – from the enigmatic Dwarfie Stane to the
tragic grave of Betty Corrigal. A single vast scoop out of
the western cliffs makes up Rackwick Bay, one of
Scotland’s most dramatic locations – and a short walk
will bring you face to face with the Old Man of Hoy, a
spectacular 137-metre sea-stack of red sandstone.
Hoy’s northern counterpart is Rousay, almost as hilly,
and studded with even more archaeological wonders –
so many, in fact, that the island has been dubbed the
‘Egypt of the North.’ The high road circling Rousay
affords wonderful views across Orkney, not least to the
small isles close by: Eynhallow, ancient monastic
settlement; Wyre, boyhood home of poet Edwin Muir;
Egilsay, site of the martyrdom of St Magnus, and of a
round-towered Viking church raised in his memory.
A few miles to the north rise the sandstone cliffs of
Eday – where the wonderful, warm, red and yellow
stone for St Magnus Cathedral was quarried. The Eday
Heritage Walk threads its way amongst bird hides, the
spectacular ‘giant’s hand’ that is the Stone of Setter,
many other ancient remains, and on past golden
beaches and heathery moorlands.
North again, its face to the open Atlantic, lies Westray,
‘Queen of the Isles,’ which some say is an Orkney in
miniature: dramatic cliffs thronged with birds, vast
sandy beaches, ancient castles, kirks and brochs, and
above all a thriving community spirit. The inventiveness
and industry of the Westray folk can be seen in their
fine farms and fishing boats, as well as in an
impressive range of crafts, in lively musical evenings –
where you’ll dance wild dances like the Nine Pins,
forgotten almost everywhere else – and in the sheer
artistry of the boat-handling on Regatta Day.
Just to the east – a couple of minutes away, by the
world’s shortest scheduled commercial flight – lies
Papa Westray, or Papay: ‘Island of the Priests.’
There are indeed important early Christian sites here,
but also numerous other attractions, from a large bird
reserve, to the Knap of Howar – the oldest standing
house in Europe.
2
Still further east and north lies North Ronaldsay, the furthest flung of our islands.
A unique environment, it is home to a singular breed of sheep, banished to the shore
by a drystone sheep-dyke that encircles the entire island. To see them munching on
strands of kelp, knee-deep in the rockpools, is a unique sight. Even hardier than the
sheep, perhaps, are the North Ronaldsay folk themselves. For centuries they have
wrestled a living from the soil of their tiny, salt-sprayed island, and the tumultuous
seas around it. And yet rarely will you meet a gentler, more hospitable people.
As low-lying as North Ronaldsay, but far bigger – in fact the biggest of these North
Isles – is Sanday. Well named by our Norse ancestors, ‘Sand Isle’ is indeed girt with a
white-gold necklace of 24- carat purity and cleanliness. This place must be heaven for
waders and other shore birds. Seals and otters seem to love it too. And so do
ay
Westr children! Imagine it: an island made up of nothing but beaches! (Well almost…)
ach, Stronsay to the south is almost as sprawling as Sanday, and almost as sandy.
ust be Three beautiful bays define the island’s shape – and offer sheltered picnicking spots
Grob whatever the airt of wind. It’s particularly rich in birdlife and in interesting rock
n formations – including the Vat of Kirbuster, a spectacular rock arch produced when
o
aying the roof of a huge circular sea-cave collapsed.
pl
Kids And so we come full circle, to end in Shapinsay, so close to the Mainland it could
almost be a suburb of Kirkwall. (In fact, quite a few Shapinsay folk do make the 25
minute crossing twice a day, commuting to work in the town.) But it’s an island with
its own gentle charms, and several unique points of interest. Not the least of these is
the magnificent baronial pile that is Balfour Castle. The planned village, a short
distance from the castle, is one of the most attractive in Orkney.
The lure of the isles is irresistible. It would take years to get to know them all
– there are over 70, after all, depending on how big a sea-splashed skerry
has to be before it earns that name! But even one weekend spent island
ay
ns hopping will provide memories to last a lifetime.
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picture of each
island’s characteristics
send for the the
Islands Brochure
(see page 25)
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ns details see pages 26 &
Steve 27 and the map on the
inside back cover.
3
In Orkney you’re not only touched by history’s
long saga: you can touch it right back.
With more ancient monuments per acre than
anywhere else in Western Europe, you can
get hands on with standing stones, enigmatic
brochs, our beautiful Norse cathedral and
much more.
In 1999, the Neolithic Heartland of Orkney was
granted World Heritage status by UNESCO. Centred
on the narrow isthmus separating Stenness and
Harray lochs, the area is home to the magnificent
stone circles of Brodgar and Stenness, which you can
wander around at will – just as the Norsemen did a
thousand years ago, leaving their runic graffiti carved
into some of the stones. More Viking vandalism,
which is now history in its own right, decorates
Maeshowe, one of the largest and finest chambered
cairns in Europe, just to the south of the stone circles.
A gang of Norsemen, sheltering from a blizzard, filled
the walls with their carved tales of treasure and
beautiful maidens…
One Stone Age site the Norsemen didn’t leave their
mark on is Skara Brae, an astonishingly well-preserved
Neolithic village on the edge of the Bay of Skaill.
Covered up for thousands of years by the sand dunes,
it was only in 1850 that a violent storm revealed the
honeycomb of houses, complete with stone
cupboards, beds and cooking hearths.
The outer isles hold their historical wonders too.
Rousay is particularly rich in remains, from Midhowe,
‘the great ship of death’, one of the best preserved
ancient tombs in Europe, to Taversoe Tuick, a rare two -
storied burial cairn, and on through remnants of every
age from the Pictish to the Viking to the Clearances.
A day in Rousay can take you through 5,000 years.
shake hands
with
Histor y
Stone Age village, Skara Brae 400 years of Orkney farm life at Kirbuster Museum “The miracle of Camp 60,” the Italian Chapel
The folk of Skara Brae and Midhowe were farmers and fishermen, and to get a grasp of
how their way of life carried on virtually unchanged for another five thousand years, visit
Kirbuster and Corrigall farm museums. Dating to the 16th century – though inhabited till
much more recently – these small farms have cottage gardens to wander in, old
implements and crafts to examine, box beds and stone hearths very similar to Skara Brae’s
– and usually a selection of poultry and sheep who are definitely not museum pieces!
A different kind of dwelling is Carrick House on Eday, an early 17th century laird’s house.
It has its place in the history books as the site of the capture of Orkney’s
most notorious pirate, John Gow, in 1725. The drawing room floor is stained
with dark splashes of what is said to be Gow’s blood.
Proving that concrete can be archaeology too, the stark and evocative
remnants of two world wars tell their own story – of a time when Orkney
was at the heart of worldwide drama. As the HQ for the Britain’s Atlantic
fleets from both 1914 to 1918, and 1939 to 1945, the islands were
temporary home for tens of thousands of servicemen, and hundreds of
naval vessels. Scapa Flow, the great natural harbour between the Mainland
and the South Isles, is surrounded by watchtowers and gun emplacements,
and the Flow itself is home to wrecks of both British and captured German
ships. Smaller, less developed islands such as Graemsay and Flotta have
particularly well preserved wartime relics. And on tiny Lamb Holm is our
most moving relic of a tragic era: the Italian Chapel, built by prisoners of
war working on the famous Churchill Barriers.
In Orkney, sites that would be archaeological wonders
anywhere else can be discovered and explored at your leisure.
Take your time, add a little bit of imagination, and you can
get to know our ancient ancestors personally!
5
Galleries don’t come much more inspirational than the Pier Arts Centre
in Stromness, recently reopened following a major renovation that has
made it one of the most striking buildings in the north of Scotland.
Yet its bold contemporary architecture blends in perfectly with its
harbourside setting, just as its important collection of 20th century
British Art – with its emphasis on Alfred Wallis, Barbara Hepworth and
other artists associated with the Cornish seaside town of St Ives –
complements perfectly Orkney’s maritime culture.
The Pier Arts Centre has helped support and inspire several generations
of artists since its opening in 1979, and their work can be seen there
Is it the survival of centuries’ old traditions?
and in other galleries, studios and shops across the islands. The
Or the inventiveness of a naturally
museums in Kirkwall and Stromness have artworks by Orcadians of
‘well-handed’ population? Or maybe just the
various eras on display, as do other council-owned buildings.
long winter nights with not much else to do?
Whatever the reason, Orkney is home to an Particularly worth looking out for is the work of Stanley Cursiter, one of
incredible number of truly inspirational the most important Scottish painters of the 20th century. Born in Kirkwall
artists and craftspeople. in 1887, he was amongst the first to introduce futurist approaches to the
country. These bold works, as well as his later portraits and landscapes,
still inspire contemporary artists. The inspiration behind the work of
the islands’ craftworkers, on the other hand, is likely to go back
centuries, even millennia.
ness
m
Stro
ntre,
Ce
Arts
Pier
the art of
Neolithic pot-firing techniques have been explored and recreated by a
potter in Harray. Excavations at Minehowe in Tankerness reveal that
Orkney’s world-famous jewellery designers had precursors at least 1,000
years ago. Traditions of textile work, including knitting, felting and
embroidery, are reinvented and given a modern twist for the catwalk.
Crofters’ furniture making habits, developed to make the most of scarce
driftwood and plentiful straw, evolve into the classic and much sought
after shapes of the Orkney Chair.
Best of all, these admirably creative people – and many more in every
discipline, from glassware to tapestry weaving – are almost all delighted
to take the time to talk to interested visitors. There are many open
studios and workshops, and a fascinating Craft Trail which will take you
right to the jeweller’s bench or the weaver’s loom.
If you ask a dozen of Orkney’s artists and craftspeople where their
inspiration comes from, you’re likely to get a dozen different answers:
from history, from the landscape, from the big skies, from my granny…
One thing for certain is, you will leave their company freshly inspired,
and in awe of their dedication and talent.
For more information on craftspeople and galleries
to visit, see pages 32, 33 and 40 or log on to
www.visitorkney.com/creative.
Also to find out about the Crafts and Artists’
Trail visit www.orkneydesignercrafts.com
or pick up the Craft Trail brochure.
Visit www.orkneyarts.org.uk for
exhibition dates and artists’ forums.
7
Nature
naturally
One of Orkney’s greatest attractions is not a single spot nor a
single day of the year. Rather that, the islands’ natural
environment is all around you everywhere, every hour of every
day. All you need to do to experience this wonder of nature is
pause a while, listen and look.
The first impression of the island landscape is often of rolling green
fields. And it’s true that much of our land is covered with lush grass
meadows. But look a little closer: along the quiet roads that link the
farms and villages are wide verges studded with wild flowers –
meadowsweet, flag irises, wild roses – with butterflies flitting from
blossom to blossom. On the smaller, quieter isles in particular, a walk
along a winding country way can be like a stroll through a secret garden.
Home to one of the world’s largest populations of black guillemots Life below the waves Orcas, ever more frequent visitors to our waters
At the end of the road, where it heads down to the shore, you’ll find As you sit quietly eating your sandwiches, the air will be thronged
acres of maritime heath: a unique biosystem, evolved to cope with the with birds. Near the cliffs you’ll see razorbills, guillemots, gannets,
drenching salt spray and strong winds. Here, dense coverings of grasses fulmars and (from May) the loveable puffin. The large and
and sedges grow, as well as thrifts, moss campion and eyebright. aggressive great skua, or bonxie, can be spotted bullying a meal
Look carefully and you might find Primula Scotica, a tiny, pinky-purple out of smaller birds – and swooping down on the unaware human
flower that looks fine and delicate – yet thrives on some of our most
exposed clifftops.
And once you’re at the shore, who can resist the call of the rockpool?
An afternoon can disappear in an instant as you hop from rock to rock,
spotting starfish, sea anemones, crabs, a rainbow of coloured seaweeds,
and many more fish, molluscs and marine plants. Watch for the wind’s
direction and head for a sheltered bay or inlet: out of the breeze, with
the sun beating down on flagstones and sand, the water can be
surprisingly warm and well worth a paddle – even a dip!
8