Saveur: The New Comfort Food, Home Cooking from Around the World PDF
Preview Saveur: The New Comfort Food, Home Cooking from Around the World
SAVEUR The New Comfort Food Home Cooking from Around the World Edited by James Oseland Table of Contents Introduction Snacks, Starters, and Salads The Ultimate Grilled Cheese Sandwich Frisée Salad with Poached Eggs and Bacon Spring Rolls with Chile–Garlic Sauce Italian-Style Stuffed Artichokes Tapas-Style Meatballs Golden Potato Latkes Guacamole Spicy Beef Empanadas Wild-Greens Pie Mushroom and Herb Crostini Herbed Tomato Tart Hummus with Tahini Soups and Stews Burgundy-Style Beef Stew Creamy Corn Chowder German Split Pea Soup French Onion Soup Matzo Ball Soup Woody DeSilva’s Championship Chili Thai Hot and Sour Shrimp Soup Tuscan-Style Kale Soup Smoked Pork and Sauerkraut Stew Eggs Ricotta and Roasted Pepper Frittata Classic Eggs Benedict Eggs Poached in Spicy Tomato Sauce Huevos Rancheros Matzo Brei with Mushrooms and Asparagus Pasta and Noodles Baked Ziti with Sausage Fettuccine Alfredo Orecchiette with Rapini and Goat Cheese Brown Butter Pasta Vegetarian Lasagne Pasta with Ragù Bucatini with Spicy Tomato Sauce Macaroni and Cheese with Ham Figaretti’s “Godfather II” Linguine Everyday Fried Noodles Fish and Shellfish New Orleans–Style BBQ Shrimp Stuffies Veracruz-Style Red Snapper Broiled Salmon Steaks with Tomatoes, Onions, and Tarragon Deep-Fried Southern Catfish Cod Cakes with Chowchow Grilled Lobster with Cilantro–Chile Butter Poultry Lemony Roast Chicken Red-Chile Chicken Enchiladas Chicken Tikka Masala Chicken Paprikash with Dumplings Indonesian Chicken Curry Sweet-and-Spicy Korean Fried Chicken Northern Fried Chicken Roasted Herbed Chicken and Vegetables Thai Red Curry with Roasted Duck Meats Lamb Chops with Salsa Verde Seven-Hour Leg of Lamb Marinated Flank Steak Italian-Style Meatballs with Tomato Ragù Filets Mignons with Mushroom Sauce Pineapple-Chipotle-Glazed Ham Sweet and Sour Pork Chops Sid’s Fried Onion Burgers Patty Melt Chicken Fried Steak Slow-Smoked Brisket Roast Pork Loin Vegetables and Sides Potatoes Gratin Chiles Rellenos Kimchi Pancakes Thai-Style Green Beans with Chile and Basil Zucchini Fritters Peppers Stuffed with Feta Creamy Spiced Indian Lentils Stir-Fried Mushrooms and Bok Choy Green Bean Casserole Butter Risotto Fennel Baked in Cream Boone Tavern’s Randy Evans’s Southern Peas Baked Goods and Sweets Chive and Cheddar Biscuits Buttermilk Flapjacks Huckleberry Crisps Sopaipillas Key Lime Pie Snickerdoodles Dulce de Leche Cake Chocolate–Caramel Tart Katharine Hepburn’s Brownies Red Velvet Cake Ice Cream with Butterscotch Sauce Lindy’s Cheesecake Caramel Coconut Flan German Chocolate Cake Drinks Spiced Tea Black-and-White Banana Malted Milk Shake Puka Punch Hot Buttered Rum Spiced Wine Regent’s Punch Six Texan Cocktails Six Regional Bloody Marys Index Table of Equivalents Acknowledgments Photography Credits Copyright Introduction Last night I cooked the perfect meal. There was nothing new or unusual about it, just split pea soup and frisée salad, recipes I’ve known for years. But the crisp, bitter greens were studded with smoky bacon, and the yolk of a just-poached egg ran luxuriously over the top. The soup, made with leftovers from a ham I’d baked the day before, was warming and rich. Together with a hunk of crusty bread, these dishes made me incomparably happy. Foods like these—comfort foods—we don’t just eat, we hunger for. They are the chicken soup that’s been simmering on the stove all afternoon, filling the house with tantalizing aromas. Or the macaroni and cheese, the version with béchamel and Gruyère, that your family and friends beg you to make. You eat them on the fly, standing up at market stalls: shakshuka, eggs poached in a spicy tomato stew, scooped from a curbside pot in Jerusalem; or crisp-fried spring rolls stuffed with pork and rice noodles, gobbled in a busy Bangkok market. They are restaurant classics: the crunchy fried chicken that a neighborhood joint is famous for, or the linguine tossed in white-wine sauce with mussels and shrimp at that Italian-American place we keep going back to. No matter where they’re eaten, comfort foods are the ones we’ve known and loved forever; the ones we ate as kids and the ones we yearn for as adults. They’re the foods that taste like home, wherever you happen to be when you eat them. These are the dishes that we’ve always celebrated in the pages of saveur magazine: soulful, honest, traditional fare that transcends trend and defines the way people eat all over the globe. Every cuisine has its canon of comfort, the foods that folks crave above all others and the ones they eat day in and day out. Those are the recipes you’ll find in this book: for good, old American stick-to- your-ribs fare, like Texas chili, Rhode Island stuffed clams, chicken pot pie, and patty melts; and for international dishes like guacamole and French onion soup, whose comfort the world has claimed as its own. There are the great pastas of Italy, like fettuccine Alfredo—that irresistible tangle of pasta, butter, and cheese —and homemade tagliatelle egg noodles with slow-simmered, meaty ragù bolognese. There are the lusty one-pot meals, like boeuf à la bourguignonne, and oven-baked triumphs like potatoes gratin—dishes that French cooks affectionately call cuisine grand-mère, or grandma’s cuisine. All told, this compendium represents some of the best traditional home cooking on the planet. compendium represents some of the best traditional home cooking on the planet. There’s also something new about this collection of comfort foods. It reflects just how much the category has grown. If you’re like me—I came of age in postwar California, raised by parents who loved to cook—you might have grown up on a far-reaching diet of foods like tamales, bagels and lox, Chinese spareribs, and, yes, meat loaf. But today, our comfort-food vocabulary is even broader. We have access to it all: fresh lemongrass, Israeli couscous, handmade corn tortillas, dried baccalà. We travel more. America’s population continues to become more diverse. And we’ve learned volumes about the way the world eats. Hair and makeup artists, working at a fashion show at the Millennium Biltmore Hotel in Los Angeles, break for a lunch of burgers.
The list of books you might like
