Saveur: The New Comfort Food - Home Cooking from Around the World

257 Pages·2011·85.95 MB·English

by  James Oseland (editor)

Camille Lebro, a home
cook in Paris, preparing
seven-hour leg of lamb.
(For a recipe, see
page 142.)
The New
Comfort Food
Home Cooking from Around the World
Edited by James Oseland
Table of Contents
Introduction 8 Pasta and Noodles Meat Key Lime Pie 211
Snickerdoodles 212
Baked Ziti with Sausage 75 Lamb Chops with
Snacks, Starters, Fettuccine Alfredo 76 Salsa Verde 141 Dulce de Leche Cake 215
and Salads Orecchiette with Rapini Seven-Hour Leg of Lamb 142 Chocolate-Caramel Tart 216
The Ultimate Grilled and Goat Cheese 79 Marinated Flank Steak 145 Katharine Hepburn's
Cheese Sandwich 17 Brown Butter Pasta 80 Brownies 219
Italian-Style Meatballs
Frisée Salad with Poached Vegetarian Lasagne 83 with Tomato Ragù 148 Red Velvet Cake 220
Eggs and Bacon 18 Ice Cream with
Pasta with Ragù 84 Filets Mignons with
Spring Rolls with Butterscotch Sauce 223
Bucatini with Spicy Mushroom Sauce 151
Chile-Garlic Sauce 21 Lindy’s Cheesecake 227
Tomato Sauce 89
Pineapple–Chipotle-
Italian-Style Stuffed Caramel Coconut Flan 228
Macaroni and Cheese Glazed Ham 152
Artichokes 22 with Ham 90 German Chocolate Cake 231
Tapas-Style Meatballs 25 Sweet and Sour
Figaretti’s “Godfather II”
Pork Chops 155
Golden Potato Latkes 26 Linguine 95 Drinks
Sid’s Fried Onion Burgers 156
Guacamole 29 Everyday Fried Noodles 96 Spiced Tea 235

Spicy Beef Empanadas 30 Patty Melt 161 Black-and-White Banana
Wild-Greens Pie 33 Fish and Shellfish Chicken Fried Steak 162 Malted Milk Shake 236
Mushroom and New Orleans–Style Slow-Smoked Brisket 165 Puka Punch 239
Herb Crostini 34 BBQ Shrimp 101 Roast Pork Loin 166 Hot Buttered Rum 240
Herbed Tomato Tart 37 Stuffies 102 Spiced Wine 243
Hummus with Tahini 38 Veracruz-Style Vegetables and Sides Regent’s Punch 244
Red Snapper 105 Potatoes Gratin 171 Six Texas Cocktails
Soups and Stews Broiled Salmon Steaks
Chiles Rellenos 172 Michelada 246
Burgundy-Style Beef Stew 43 with Tomatoes, Onions, Kimchi Pancakes 175 Kentucky Club
and Tarragon 106
Creamy Corn Chowder 44 Thai-Style Green Beans with Margarita 246
Deep-Fried Southern
German Split Pea Soup 47 Chile and Basil 176 Book Club Sangria 246
Catfish 111
French Onion Soup 48 Zucchini Fritters 179 Longhorn Bull Shot 247
Cod Cakes with
Matzo Ball Soup 51 Peppers Stuffed with Feta 180 Cucumber Cooler 247
Chowchow 112
Woody DeSilva’s Creamy Spiced Chico 247
Grilled Lobster with
Championship Chili 52 Cilantro-Chile Butter 115 Indian Lentils 183 Six Regional Bloody Marys
Thai Hot and Sour Stir-Fried Mushrooms Original Bloody Mary 248
Shrimp Soup 55 Poultry and Bok Choy 184 Michelada Bloody Mary 248
Tuscan-Style Kale Soup 56 Green Bean Casserole 188
Lemony Roast Chicken 119 Cajun Bloody Mary 248
Smoked Pork and Butter Risotto 191
Red-Chile Chicken Old Bay Bloody Mary 249
Sauerkraut Stew 59 Enchiladas 120 Fennel Baked in Cream 192 Heirloom Tomato
Chicken Tikka Masala 124 Boone Tavern's Bloody Mary 249
Eggs
Spoonbread 195
Chicken Paprikash Boston Bloody Mary 249
Ricotta and Roasted with Dumplings 127 Randy Evans’s
Pepper Frittata 63 Southern Peas 196
Indonesian Chicken Curry 128 Index 250
Classic Eggs Benedict 64
Sweet-and-Spicy Korean Table of Equivalents 254
Eggs Poached in Spicy Baked Goods
Tomato Sauce 67 Fried Chicken 131 and Sweets Acknowledgments 255
Northern Fried Chicken 132
Huevos Rancheros 68 Chive and Cheddar Biscuits 201
Roasted Herbed Chicken
Matzo Brei with Mushrooms and Vegetables 135 Buttermilk Flapjacks 202
and Asparagus 71 Thai Red Curry with Huckleberry Crisps 205
Roasted Duck 136 Sopaipillas 208

A home cook in Oneida
County, New York,
frosts a spiced pumpkin
cake for a community
potluck supper.
Introduction
Last night I cooked the perfect meal. There was nothing
new or unusual about it, just split pea soup and frisée
salad, recipes I’ve known for years. But the crisp, bitter
greens were studded with smoky bacon, and the yolk of
a just-poached egg ran luxuriously over the top. The soup,
made with leftovers from a ham I’d baked the day before,
was warming and rich. Together with a hunk of crusty
bread, these dishes made me incomparably happy.
Foods like these—comfort foods—we don’t just eat, we hunger transcends trend and defines the way people eat all over the globe.
for. They are the chicken soup that’s been simmering on the Every cuisine has its canon of comfort, the foods that folks crave
stove all afternoon, filling the house with tantalizing aromas. above all others and the ones they eat day in and day out. Those
Or the macaroni and cheese, the version with béchamel and are the recipes you’ll find in this book: for good, old American
Gruyère, that your family and friends beg you to make. You eat stick-to-your-ribs fare, like Texas chili, Rhode Island stuffed
them on the fly, standing up at market stalls: shakshuka, eggs clams, chicken pot pie, and patty melts; and for international
poached in a spicy tomato stew, scooped from a curbside pot in dishes like guacamole and French onion soup, whose comfort the
Jerusalem; or crisp-fried spring rolls stuffed with pork and rice world has claimed as its own. There are the great pastas of Italy,
noodles, gobbled in a busy Bangkok market. They are restaurant like fettuccine Alfredo—that irresistible tangle of pasta, butter,
classics: the crunchy fried chicken that a neighborhood joint is and cheese—and homemade tagliatelle egg noodles with slow-
famous for, or the linguine tossed in white-wine sauce with simmered, meaty ragù bolognese. There are the lusty one-pot
mussels and shrimp at that Italian-American place we keep meals, like boeuf à la bourguignonne, and oven-baked triumphs
going back to. No matter where they’re eaten, comfort foods like potatoes gratin—dishes that French cooks affectionately call
are the ones we’ve known and loved forever; the ones we ate as cuisine grand-mère, or grandma’s cuisine. All told, this compendium
kids and the ones we yearn for as adults. They’re the foods that represents some of the best traditional home cooking on the planet.
taste like home, wherever you happen to be when you eat them. There’s also something new about this collection of comfort
These are the dishes that we’ve always celebrated in the pages foods. It reflects just how much the category has grown. If you’re
of saveur magazine: soulful, honest, traditional fare that like me—I came of age in postwar California, raised by parents
8
The New Comfort Food
Hair and makeup artists,
working at a fashion show
at the Millennium Biltmore
Hotel in Los Angeles, break
for a lunch of burgers.