Sahalie Apparel Quality Guidelines - Orchard Brands

38 Pages·2009·0.4 MB·English

NORM THOMPSON OUTFITTERS APPAREL QUALITY GUIDELINES

Sahalie
Apparel Quality Guidelines

Updated 2009

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NORM THOMPSON OUTFITTERS APPAREL QUALITY GUIDELINES

APPAREL QUALITY GUIDELINES

TABLE OF CONTENTS

I. INTRODUCTION
CONTACT INFORMATION............................................................................................4
Technical Design & Quality..................................................................................4
Technical Designers...............................................................................................4
II. VENDOR REQUIREMENTS............................................................................................5
SAMPLE TAGS.................................................................................................................5
PRODUCT SPECIFICATION REQUESTS......................................................................5
PRE-PRODUCTION SAMPLES.......................................................................................6
TOP-OF-PRODUCTION GARMENTS............................................................................7
REQUIRED PROCESSES BEFORE SHIPPING..............................................................8
PRODUCTION REQUIREMENTS...................................................................................9
QUALITY CONTROL INSPECTION OF PRODUCTION GOODS...............................9

III. SAHALIE APPAREL GUIDELINES..............................................................................10
GENERAL ................................................................................................................10
MEASUREMENTS..........................................................................................................10
FABRICS ................................................................................................................10
COLOR ................................................................................................................10
CONSTRUCTION...........................................................................................................11
Stitching..................................................................................................11
Thread.....................................................................................................11
Seams......................................................................................................11
Buttonholes.............................................................................................11
Hems.......................................................................................................12
Interfacing – Facing................................................................................12
Pockets....................................................................................................12
Collars.....................................................................................................12
Plackets...................................................................................................12
Cuffs.......................................................................................................12
Rib, Binding............................................................................................13
Waistbands/Belt loops............................................................................13
FINDINGS ................................................................................................................13
Zippers....................................................................................................13
Buttons....................................................................................................13
Belts/Buckles..........................................................................................14
Shoulder pads.........................................................................................14
Linings....................................................................................................14
PRESSING ................................................................................................................14

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NORM THOMPSON OUTFITTERS APPAREL QUALITY GUIDELINES

IV. PRODUCT LABELING REQUIREMENTS...................................................................15
BRAND LABELS...........................................................................................................15
SIZE LABELS ................................................................................................................15
CARE & CONTENT LABELS........................................................................................15
Care Label Ruling...................................................................................16
COUNTRY OF ORIGIN..................................................................................................17
LABEL PLACEMENT....................................................................................................17

V. SUSTAINABILITY RESOLUTION...............................................................................18

VI. FLAMMABILITY REQUIREMENTS............................................................................19
SUSPTECT FABRICS ................................................................................................... 19
RAISED FIBER FABRICS............................................................................................ 20
EXEMPTIONS ............................................................................................................. 20
VII APPAREL TESTING..................................................................................................... 21
BASIC QUALITY TESTING REQUIREMENTS ........................................................ 21
Woven Fabric......................................................................................................21
Knit Fabric...........................................................................................................21
Sweaters...............................................................................................................22
VIII TESTING METHODS AND STANDARDS...................................................................23
NTO Laboratory Testing Protocol..................................................................23-26
IX TESTING LAB SUBMIT FORM...............................................................................27-28
ADDITIONAL TESTS SUBMIT FORM........................................................................29
OTHER TESTS ..........................................................................................................30-31
NTO Laboratory Testing Protocol (other tests)..............................................30-31
TESTING LAB SUBMIT FORM (other tests)...........................................................32-33

X. APPENDIX ................................................................................................................34
READ AND COMPLY....................................................................................................35
SPECS. CARE & CONTENT SPECIFICATION SHEET..............................................36
GARMENT LABELS......................................................................................................37
ASTM GUIDE ................................................................................................................38

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NORM THOMPSON OUTFITTERS APPAREL QUALITY GUIDELINES

I. INTRODUCTION

The Sahalie Technical Design team establishes corporate quality guidelines and, together with the Merchandise
Department, develops products of quality and value.

Questions regarding quality guidelines should be directed to the appropriate Tech Design team member listed below
via phone, fax, regular mail, or email.

CONTACT INFORMATION

PHONE FAX ADDRESS
503-614-EXT. 503-614-4725 3188 NW Aloclek Drive
Hillsboro, OR 97124

Technical Design & Quality

NAME EXT. E-MAIL
Kim Campbell 4497 [email protected]
Manager -Technical Design/Prod Quality

Technical Design

NAME EXT. E-MAIL
Lucy Sami 4568 Sahalie Apparel [email protected]
Product Technician

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NORM THOMPSON OUTFITTERS APPAREL QUALITY GUIDELINES

II. VENDOR REQUIREMENTS

SAMPLE TAGS

All sample garments must be received with sample tags applied by the vendor and include the
following information:
a. Date
b. Vendor name
c. Vendor reference number
d. Sahalie reference/product number
e. Size
f. Sample identification; i.e., 1st Prototype, 2nd Prototype, Pre-production Sample,
Top of Production Sample, Photo Sample, etc.
g. Color
h. Fabric – content, fabric reference # , article #, and notation if substitute or correct

ALL FIT SAMPLES are to be sent to the attention of Technical Design – not to the buyer.
Samples received untagged will be returned to the vendor for tagging.

PRODUCT SPECIFICATION REQUESTS

a. Read and Comply Statement will be generated and faxed with first Purchase Order
for each style (see Appendix page 30).

1) Care and content is required on all styles and should be submitted prior to due date.
2) Pre-production sample , if requested by Tech Designer. See page 5.
3) TOP garment – One (1) required. See page 6.
4) Color swatches:
 New styles: Submit two (1) sets of fabric swatches of any additional colors
purchased for that product not represented by TOP samples.
 Carryover styles: Submit one set of fabric swatches for new colors only.

b. For apparel orders a blank specification sheet will be included (see Appendix page 30).

1) Line Goods: All applicable garment measurements and care/content information
must be completed on all new styles.
2) Developed Goods: Complete only care/content information. Spec pack will be
sent to you by Tech Design.
3) Carryover Styles: Submit one set of fabric swatches for new colors only.

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NORM THOMPSON OUTFITTERS APPAREL QUALITY GUIDELINES

PRODUCT SPECIFICATION REQUESTS (continued)

c. It is a Federal Trade Commission (FTC) regulation that catalog information regarding
country of origin and fiber content must be consistent with the information on the
product label. Care and content information submitted on the specification sheet must
match that of actual product labeling. Inaccurate product information submitted will
result in a chargeback of $300.00, plus cost of copy change.

d. Fax/email the specification sheet(s) to the appropriate Technical Designer by the due
date on the Read and Comply Statement or by date given in by Technical Designer.

PLEASE NOTE: Your shipment will not be accepted at our distribution center until a Technical Design
representative has received your specification sheet. Failure to supply specification sheets on time will
result in a $450.00 surcharge per style, and delayed payment.

PRE-PRODUCTION SAMPLES

a. One (1) pre-production sample is required upon request by Sahalie
Technical Design. With this sample, the vendor is certifying that everything on and
about the sample is correct – including materials, construction, labeling and packaging.

 If pre-production sample is requested, written approval of the pre-production sample must be
received by the vendor prior to cutting and sewing of the product.

 Tech Design will fax/email approval to you.

 Samples are to be sent to the attention of the appropriate Technical Designer.

 All samples must be received with sample tags per the stated guideline (see Sample Tags on
page 4).

 Sample is reviewed for quality, construction, and specification compliance.

 Labeling – All products must comply with Sahalie brand labels if requested. Refer to Section
4 Product Labeling Requirements (page 13) for more detail.

 Any changes required as a result of the review of the pre-production sample must be
incorporated into the bulk production.

Failure to supply the requested pre-production sample by the stated date will result in a $450.00
chargeback per style and possible rejection of bulk production.

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NORM THOMPSON OUTFITTERS APPAREL QUALITY GUIDELINES

TOP-OF-PRODUCTION GARMENTS

a. One (1) Top of Production (TOP) garment is required, as detailed on our Read and
Comply Statement and Purchase Order. Also required are one (1) set of fabric
swatches of any additional colors purchased for that product not represented by the
production samples.

 TOP garments and swatches (if necessary) are to be received by the due date as specified on the
Read and Comply Statement, or by date specified by the Technical Designer
(based on production calendar).

 TOP garments should be sent to the attention of the appropriate Technical Designer.

 TOP garments are reviewed for quality and specification compliance.

 TOP garment (approved) will be retained as the inspection standard for the bulk order.

 Labeling – All products need to comply with Sahalie brand labels if requested. Refer to Section
4 Product Labeling Requirements (page 13) for more detail.

 Packaging (hanging, folded, polybag, SKU sticker, etc.) should be as specified on the Purchase
Order and representative of bulk shipment goods.

b. If production of a carryover style moves to a new factory, or if style moves to a new
yarn, has new content, etc., one (1) TOP garment samples are required.

c. The Technical Designer will email/fax verification that TOP garments meet the
production standard, within two working days of receipt.

PLEASE NOTE: Your shipment will not be accepted at our Distribution Center until the Technical
Designer has approved your TOP garments. Failure to supply the production garments by the due date
will result in a $450.00 surcharge per style, and delayed payment to you.

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NORM THOMPSON OUTFITTERS APPAREL QUALITY GUIDELINES

Required processes before shipment of products

Technical Design and Quality require the following important steps be followed, before
A Top of Production garment is considered approved for production to ship.
.
1- Testing for Quality and CPSIA be completed and submitted for approval by
Technical Design/Product Quality Management. (see: Basic Testing Requirements)

2- CPSIA Certificate of Conformity be fully completed and submitted
By email to - [email protected]

For more details on the Certificate of Conformity – visit our vendor website
http://vendor.nortom.com/ - “US CPSIA Act –2008” “Certificate of Conformity”
Submit Certificate of Conformity must also include
a) Supporting test documents
- or -
b) Statement on letterhead with explanation of exemption.

Note: Apparel Flammability Act 16 CFR 1610 - applies to all items of clothing, and fabrics
used for clothing, whether for adults or children, for daywear or nightwear.
Regulations: 16 CFR parts 1615 and 1616 govern the flammability of children's sleepwear.

3- TOP (top of production) with all points met listed in the above guidelines.
4- Receipt of TOP approval letter

Failure to comply will result in a $450.00 QC chargeback per style, per offense

1- Non submittal - CPSIA certificate of conformity and supporting documentation at time of Top
of Production submit.

2- Top of Production – product not arriving by specified date
 provided by Technical Design and/or on Purchase order (read and comply)
 Check with appropriate Technical Designer regarding due date.

3- Shipment of products to our warehouse without prior approval
 Products shipped before approval, may also be held at warehouse and
i. additional charges may be incurred due to lost demand, until all
issue and concerns are cleared.
ii. Automatic charge of $450.00 will be given

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NORM THOMPSON OUTFITTERS APPAREL QUALITY GUIDELINES

PRODUCTION REQUIREMENTS

a. Correct product labeling is required. Please refer to Section 4 Product Labeling Requirements
(page 14).

b. Garment folded or hanging as specified on the purchase order.

c. If Sahalie labels are specified on the purchase order, there can be no vendor hangtag attached unless
prior approval is obtained from Product Quality Management (PQM)

d. No vendor solicitations allowed on garment (phone numbers, addresses, websites, etc.) with or
without Sahalie labeling, unless prior approval is obtained from Product Quality Management
(PQM)

e. No price tags.

f. One (1) extra button of each button size on garment to be included with garment.

QUALITY CONTROL INSPECTION OF PRODUCTION GOODS

a. All orders received at our distribution center require a quality inspection to assure consistent quality
of all products.

b. Inspection procedure adopted by our distribution center is the 4% Acceptable Quality Level (AQL),
double sampling plan based upon the Military Standard 105D. It is the most widely used random-
sampling inspection procedure among the large direct-mail companies.

 4% AQL means no more than 4% of the shipment can be defective.

 Double sampling means if the amount inspected falls between accept/reject, another sample lot
is pulled and inspected.

c. If shipment fails the AQL inspection, goods will automatically be returned to the vendor for 100%
inspection and replacement of goods.

d. There are three levels of inspection under the AQL plan: normal, reduced, and tightened. Each
shipment is documented, and a vendor’s status may be changed to reduced or increased inspection
levels, based upon inspection of previous shipments.

e. Inspection reports are available upon request.

f. For further information or questions regarding the AQL process, please contact the appropriate
Technical Designer.

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NORM THOMPSON OUTFITTERS APPAREL QUALITY GUIDELINES
III. SAHALIE APPAREL GUIDELINES

GENERAL

These guidelines include, but are not limited to, the following:

a. Color, fiber content, fabric and garment construction, and all parts, findings and features, are exactly as
approved for Purchase Order by Merchants, and are representative of photo samples.
b. No odors.
c. All units of Purchase Order are consistent in quality of fabric, construction, and features.
d. Vendor is responsible for physical testing that meets Sahalie requirements. Our standards follow
American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC) and ASTM International (ASTM)
for product end-use. Refer to Section 6 Physical Testing (page 17).

MEASUREMENTS

a. Garment measurements must meet approved graded production specification sheets within
tolerances listed on spec sheet.
b. Corresponding garment pieces measure within ½" of each other (right and left sleeve, or right and left
pant leg).

FABRICS

a. No fabric defects, including: holes, stains, weak spots, mispicks, knots, slubs, soil, or other
flaws.
b. No streaking, fade lines, heavy barré or foreign matter, unless characteristic of fabric type.
c. No large or long slubs (inherent in some natural fabrics) to be found in front of garment, which detracts
from garment appearance.
d. No uneven print repeats, off-register prints, off-grain prints, or inconsistent print repeats.
e. Stripes, plaids and directional prints must match at center front and center back +/- ⅛",at side seams
and armscye.
f. Based on design, center of plaid/stripe is placed at center front and center back.

COLOR

a. Production colors must match approved lab dip or approved photo sample color.
b. All garment components are from the same dye lot.
c. Separates should be from the same dye lot or from approved dye lots within shade band pre-approved
by the Technical Designer.

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