Rough Guides Directions Rome

231 Pages·7.322 MB·English

by  Lee Phil.

S
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Rome
Up-to-date DIRECTIONS
Inspired IDEAS
User-friendly MAPS
ACCURATE RELIABLE INFORMATIVE

Mallorca
DIRECTIONS
WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY
Phil Lee
NEW YORK (cid:127) LONDON (cid:127) DELHI
www.roughguides.com
2
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Contents
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Introduction 4 Tridente ...................................................................................95 EN
The Forum, Colosseum and T
around ............................................................................104 S
The Aventine and south of
Ideas 9 the centre ...................................................................111
The Quirinale, Termini and around .....122
The big six ...........................................................................10 Monti and San Giovanni ..................................133
Fountains ...............................................................................12 The Villa Borghese and north of
Ancient Rome ..................................................................14 the centre ...................................................................143
Churches ...............................................................................16 Trastevere and the Janiculum Hill ......149
Mosaics ...................................................................................18 The Vatican City ........................................................158
Green Rome .......................................................................20 Day-trips ............................................................................171
Viewpoints ...........................................................................22
Food .............................................................................................24
Museums and galleries .......................................26 Accommodation 177
SBKhiadorssp’ . p..R..i.n.o...gm.... ....e...... ..............................................................................................................................................................................................................................233802 HHootsetelsl s.... ..a...n....d... ..c....o...n....v...e...n....t..s... ..................................................................................117896
Great restaurants ........................................................34
Grand hotels ......................................................................36 Essentials 187
CDTFSPahataoamlefmaté ucoVseeeua s..ss.ts. ..i ... ....c....R........a........o....n............m.... ....................a....................n...............s.................... ............................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................344444802468 ACISDnriiifgtrroyeihvr cttmasrtloa a..arn..ty.n.is.o. ..dp....n.. ..o..m ....ra....t....un ............sd.........e ......t...u...o.........m...u.........r...s......s...... .... ........................................................................................................................................................................................................111118999990234
Ice cream ..............................................................................50
Literary Rome ..................................................................52 Language 197
Piazzas .....................................................................................54
Underground Rome ..................................................56
Hills of Rome ....................................................................58 small print & Index 205
Baroque Rome ................................................................60
Rome on fi lm ....................................................................62
Colour maps
Places 65 Rome
Centro Storico
Piazza Venezia and the Capitoline Trains and Metro
Hill ............................................................................................67 Chapter Locator Map
The centro storico ......................................................72
Campo de’ Fiori, the Ghetto and
Useful stuff
around ................................................................................86
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Introduction to
Rome
N
O
I Rome is arguably the most fascinating city in the world,
T
C an ancient place packed with the relics of over two
U
D thousand years of habitation. You could spend a month
O
R here and still only scratch the surface. Yet it is so much
T
N more than an open-air museum – its people, its culture,
I
its food, make up a modern and vibrant city that would
be worthy of a visit irrespective of its history.
inR oonm teo’sp voaf rioonues aneroatsh ecr rotow da Traja(cid:1)
rmemedairekvaabl lceh udrechgeres ea: totph earnec ieanret n’s co
lu
basilicas and Roman palaces; m
n
houses and apartment blocks a
n
that incorporate fragments of d th
Roman columns and inscrip- e c
tions; and roads and piazzas hu
that follow the lines of ancient rch
o
amphitheatres and stadiums. All f S
of which means that it’s not S. N
an easy place to absorb on o
m
one visit, and you need to take e d
things slowly, even if you only i M
have a couple of days here. Most aria
of the sights can be approached
from a number of directions,
and part of the allure of Rome
is stumbling across things by
accident, gradually piecing
the city together, rather than
marching around to a timetable.
It’s best to decide on a few key
When to visit
It’s possible to visit Rome at any time. However, you should, if you can,
avoid coming in July or August, when it’s very hot and most Romans are
on holiday. May, June and September are the most comfortable months
weatherwise – warm but not unbearably so, and not too humid; April
and October can be nice too – the city is less crowded, outside Easter,
and days can still be warm. The winter months can be a good time to
visit, but bear in mind that the weather can be rainy and while you’ll find
everything pleasantly uncrowded, a lot of attractions will have reduced
opening hours.
Contents Introduction
5
(cid:2)
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attractions (check out our Ideas
section) and then take things
easy – don’t be afraid to just
wander!
Rome’s atmosphere is like no
other city – a monumental, busy
capital and yet an appealingly
relaxed place, with a centre that
has yet to be taken over by
chainstores and big multinational
hotels. Above all, there has per-
haps never been a better time to
visit: the city’s notoriously crum-
bling infrastructure is looking
and functioning better than it has
done for some time, museums
and churches have reopened after
years of restoration, and some
of the city’s historic collections
have been rehoused, making it
all the easier to get the most out
of Rome. (cid:2) Roman traffic – and attitude
Contents Introduction
6
(cid:1)
F
lo
w
e
rs in
th
e
F
o
N rum
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T
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I

To see all of this you’d be mad to risk your blood pressure in any
kind of vehicle, and the best way of getting around the city centre
is to walk. The same goes for
the ancient sites, and probably
the Vatican and Trastevere quar-
ter too – although for these last
two you might want to jump
on a bus or a tram going across
the river. Keep public transport
for longer hops – down to
Testaccio, Ostiense or EUR, or
to the catacombs and the Via
Appia Antica, and of course for
trips outside the city: to Ostia
Antica, Tivoli, or to the beach
at Anzio. (cid:2) Priests, Vatican City
Contents Introduction
7
Rome
AT A GLANCE
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Centro Storico (cid:1)
C
It’s easy to lose a sense of en
dbiuret cytoioun’r ein s Ro olimkeel’ys thoi sctoomrice caecnrtorses, tro sto
something interesting it hardly rico
matters.
Campo de’ Fiori and the
Ghetto
Centring on the square and its
market, this is a bustling neigh-
bourhood of tiny streets and
secluded piazzas next to Rome’s
diminutive old Jewish quarter – the
city at its most atmospheric.
Piazza di Spagna and
Tridente Ancient Rome
The Spanish Steps and the square The main concentration of Rome’s
below are the heart of tourist Rome, ancient sites is just south of the
and the surrounding Tridente area city centre, focusing on the Forum,
holds many of the key sights and Palatine Hill and, of course, the
the smartest designer shopping. Colosseum.
(cid:2)
T
h
e
S
p
a
n
ish
S
te
p
s
Contents Introduction
8
Trastevere and the
Janiculum Hill
On the west bank of the Tiber,
Trastevere has a village-like atmos-
phere as well as some of the city’s
best food and nightlife. It’s also a
N
O great place to get your bearings
TI from the Janiculum Hill.
C
U Vatican City
D
O It’s not much like visiting a sov-
R
T ereign state, but you can’t ignore
N St Peter’s and the wonders of the
I
Vatican Museums.

(cid:2) The Forum and Palatine Hill
Monti
Between the Colosseum and
Termini station, this nineteenth-
century district of small hilly
streets is the city centre’s most
up-and-coming area – full of
appealing small bars and
restaurants.
(cid:2)
Ja
n
ic
u
lu
m
H
ill
(cid:2) Swiss Guards, Vatican City
Contents Introduction