Roots: the definitive compendium with more than 225 recipes PDF
Preview Roots: the definitive compendium with more than 225 recipes
RO OT S The definitive compendium with more than 225 recipes DIANE MORGAN FOREWORD BY DEBORAH MADISON PHOTOGRAPHS BY ANTONIS ACHILLEOS A ROOTS ROOTS The definitive compendium with more than 225 recipes DIANE MORGAN FOREWORD BY DEBORAH MADISON PHOTOGRAPHS BY ANTONIS ACHILLEOS IN LOVING MEMORY OF MY PARENTS, Julius Ronald LevKoy and Irene Miller LevKoy Text copyright © 2012 by Diane Morgan. Foreword copyright © 2012 by Deborah Madison. Photographs copyright © 2012 by Antonis Achilleos. All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced in any form without written permission from the publisher. ISBN 978-1-4521-0847-6 (eBook) The Library of Congress has previously cataloged this title under ISBN 978-0-8118-7837-1. Designed by SARAH PULVER Prop styling by PAIGE HICKS Food styling by JAMIE KIMM Typesetting by KATE KAMINSKI The photographer wishes to thank Jamie and Paige, for the great collaboration, hard work, and beautiful vision that made this project a lot of fun. Also I would like to thank the creative team at Chronicle for their great attentiveness and for promptly answering our countless questions about all the different types of roots. Chronicle Books LLC 680 Second Street San Francisco, California 94107 www.chroniclebooks.com CONTENTS FOREWORD by Deborah Madison 10 Chioggia Beet Carpaccio with Arugula and Panko-Crusted Panfried Goat Cheese 52 INTRODUCTION 13 Beets, Prosciutto-Wrapped Persimmons, and Bitter Greens with Creamy Blue Cheese 53 ROOTS, TUBERS, RHIZOMES, AND CORMS 16 Chilled Beet Soup with Dill and Crème Fraîche 54 THE ROOT CELLAR 18 Hot Beef Borscht 55 Golden Beet Risotto with Crumbled Ricotta Salata and Sautéed Beet Greens 56 ANDEAN TUBERS 21 Beet Hash with Spicy Chicken Sausage Causa Trucha Ahumado (Potato Cake with Smoked Trout) 24 and Soft-Cooked Eggs 57 Causa Vegetariano Red Velvet Cupcakes with Orange Buttercream 58 (Potato Cake with Vegetables and Cheese) 26 Papas a la Huancaína BURDOCK ROOT 61 (Potatoes with Cheese and Chile Sauce) 28 Parboiled Burdock Root 63 Ocopa Limea (Peruvian Yellow Potatoes with Ocopa Sauce) 29 Shredded Burdock in Tangy Sesame Sauce 64 Picante de Ullucos (Ullucos in Hot Sauce) 30 Burdock in Spicy Kochu Jang Sauce 65 Carapulcra (Pork and Freeze-Dried Potatoes) 32 Burdock Miso-Zuke 66 Cazuela de Gallina (Chicken Pot with Vegetables) 33 Burdock and Carrot Kinpira 67 ARROWHEAD 35 Kale and Burdock Root in Curried Cream 68 Persimmon and Arrowhead 37 Elizabeth Andoh’s Miso-Thickened Pork and Burdock Soup 69 Arrowhead Leek Soup 38 Grilled Beef-Wrapped Burdock Root 70 Roasted Lemongrass Chicken with Arrowhead 39 Steamed Mussels with Burdock Root, Shallots, Clay Pot–Caramelized Pork Belly and Arrowhead Stew 40 and Sun-Dried Tomatoes 73 BEET 43 CARROT 75 Roasted Beets 45 Spicy Thai Pickled Carrots 77 Sautéed Beet Greens 47 Carrot, Napa Cabbage, and Apple Slaw with Pickled Beets with Star Anise and Cinnamon 48 Creamy Poppy Seed Dressing 78 Beet Salsa with Avocado and Blood Orange 49 Carrot Top Pesto 79 Raw Beet Slaw with Fennel, Tart Apple, and Parsley 50 Carrot Ribbons with Sorrel Pesto and Frisée Salad with Golden Beets, Crumbled Goat Cheese 81 Poached Eggs, and Bacon-Sherry Vinaigrette 51 Moroccan Carrot and Chickpea Salad with Dried Plums and Toasted Cumin Vinaigrette 82 Butter-Braised Baby Carrots with Dill 83 Banana Leaf–Wrapped Grilled Salmon with a Galangal-Lemongrass Marinade 125 Caramelized Spiced Carrots with Honey and Orange 84 Lacy Galangal Brandy Crisps 127 Stir-Fried Carrots and Fennel with Garlic 85 Chocolate-Galangal Crinkle Cookies 128 Farro with Carrots, Red Grapes, and Pearl Onions 86 Poached Asian Pears with Galangal and Honey 129 Lamb and Carrot Curry 87 White Carrot Crab Bisque 88 GINGER 131 Holiday Carrot Pudding 90 Sushi-Style Pickled Ginger 133 Carrot–Poppy Seed Bundt Cake with Meyer Lemon Glaze 91 Ginger Vinaigrette with Cilantro and Green Onion 134 Carrot Cardamom Marmalade 92 Dungeness Crab Cakes with Ginger 135 Kevin Ludwig’s Carrot Margarita 93 Korean-Style Grilled Short Ribs 137 Gingerbread Cake with Crème Anglaise 138 CELERY ROOT 95 Old-Fashioned Gingersnaps 140 Celery Root Rémoulade 97 Ginger Panna Cotta 141 Cream of Celery Root Soup 98 Brown Sugar–Ginger Ice Cream 142 Celery Root Soup with Rotisserie Chicken, Kale, and Cremini Mushrooms 99 Candied Young Ginger 143 Celery Root, Celery Heart, and Celery Leaf Salad 100 Homemade Ginger Ale 145 Celery Root Purée with Anjou Pear 102 Celery Root Gratin 103 HORSERADISH 147 Horseradish Sour Cream Dip 149 Truffled Celery Root Flan with Bacon Garnish 104 Lemon Horseradish Butter 150 CROSNE 107 Horseradish Vinaigrette 150 Parboiled Crosnes 109 Horseradish and Beet Gravlax 152 Pickled Crosnes 109 Smoked Whitefish Salad with Horseradish Vinaigrette 153 Curried Crosne Fritters 110 Sautéed Horseradish Gnocchi 154 Sautéed Crosnes with Crisp Pepper Bacon, Prime Rib of Beef with Horseradish Cream 156 Garlic, and Parsley 111 Crosnes with Truffled Cream 111 JERUSALEM ARTICHOKE 159 Russian Salad with Shrimp and Crosnes 112 Pickled Jerusalem Artichokes 161 Spicy Ginger Pork and Crosnes in Bean Sauce 113 Jerusalem Artichoke Soup 162 Dr. Gibson Meet Mr. Crosne (Pickled Crosne Martini) 114 Winter Greens, Sunchokes, Carrots, Fennel, and Radishes with Grainy-Mustard Vinaigrette 163 GALANGAL 117 Sautéed Jerusalem Artichokes 164 Red Curry Paste 119 Roasted Jerusalem Artichokes with Lemon, Rosemary, and Garlic 164 Galangal-Tarragon Sauce for Seafood 120 Pan-Roasted Jerusalem Artichokes and Butternut Squash 165 Tom Kha Gai (Thai Galangal Chicken Soup) 121 Jerusalem Artichoke and Artichoke Heart Linguine 166 Snake Bean Coconut Curry 122 Red Curry and Galangal Grilled Chicken Drumettes 123 JICAMA 169 PARSNIP 219 Jicama, Roasted Corn, and Black Bean Salsa 171 Parsnip and Potato Soup with Crisp Diced Bacon 221 Blood Orange Salad with Jicama, Arugula, and Silky Parsnip Purée 222 Oil-Cured Olives 173 Orange-Braised Parsnips with Cumin and Mint 222 Composed Jicama, Avocado, and Grapefruit Salad with Parsnips with Goat’s Milk Butter and Thyme 223 Cilantro Drizzle 174 Roasted Parsnips and Carrots with Fresh Dill 223 Jicama and Watermelon Salad with Thai Basil and Pink Peppercorn Vinaigrette 175 Seared Duck Breast over Parsnip Purée with Port Reduction 224 Wintertime Jicama Slaw 176 Spaghetti Carbonara with Parsnips, Pancetta, and Peas 226 Shrimp and Jicama Ceviche 177 Three-Layer Parsnip Cake with Cream Cheese Frosting 227 Salmon Salad Rolls with Cellophane Noodles, Jicama, and Green Onions 178 POTATO 231 Potato and Corn Clam Chowder with Fresh Thyme 233 LOTUS ROOT 181 Barbara Tropp’s Lemon-Pickled Lotus Root 183 Gerda’s Austrian Potato Salad 234 Lotus Root Salad with Spicy Thai Vinaigrette 184 Classic Mashed Potatoes 235 Quick Lemon Chicken Soup with Lotus Root, Butter Mashed Yukon Gold Potatoes with Parmesan 236 Green Onions, and Chiles 185 Colcannon 237 Lotus Root, Shrimp, and Vegetable Tempura 186 Grandma Rose’s Latkes 238 Stir-Fried Lotus Root and Snow Peas 189 Ultimate Hand-Cut French Fries 239 Lotus Root Chips 190 Potatoes Sautéed in Duck Fat 240 Candied Lotus Root 191 Roasted New Potatoes with Romesco Sauce 241 Lotus Root Upside-Down Cake 192 Grilled Fingerling Potatoes with Crumbled Blue Cheese Sauce 242 MALANGA 195 Twice-Baked Gruyère Potatoes with Cream of Malanga Soup with Malanga Crisps 197 Lots of Green Onions 243 Malanga Fritters with Serrano Chiles and Garlic 198 Suneeta’s Potato Chaat with Cilantro-Mint Chutney 244 Alcapurrias 200 Istrian Potatoes 246 Roasted Garlic Mashed Malanga 202 Parmesan-Crusted Potato Gratin with Fresh Thyme 247 Golden Malanga Coconut Balls 203 RADISH 249 Cuban Malanga Pie 204 Sweet Pickled Daikon 251 Biwa Daikon Kimchi 252 PARSLEY ROOT 207 Parsley Root, Apple, and Watercress Salad 209 Easter Egg Radish Crostini with Herbed Goat Cheese 254 Parsley Root Tortilla Española 210 French Breakfast Radishes with Herb Butter and Sel Gris 255 Parsley Root and Butternut Squash Gratin 211 Radish Top Soup 256 Smashed Parsley Roots and Potatoes with Crème Fraîche 212 Red Radish Salad and Radish Greens with Lemon Crème Fraîche 257 Grandma Rose’s Pulled Chicken Soup with Parsley Roots, Carrots, and Herbs 213 Shaved Watermelon Radish and Asparagus Salad with Castelvetrano Olives and Gouda 258 Chicken Fricassee with Parsley Roots and Chanterelle Mushrooms 215 Asian Pear and Daikon Salad with Yuzu Vinaigrette 260 Daikon and Apple Slaw 261 Sweet Potato–Topped Turkey Potpie 304 Black Radish Tuna Salad Sandwiches 262 Roast Turkey and Sweet Potato Chowder 305 Panfried Trout with Roasted Radishes and Sweet Potato Pie with a Gingerbread Crust and Radish Green Salsa Verde 263 Bourbon Whipped Cream 306 RUTABAGA 265 TARO 309 Roasted Root Vegetable Stock 267 Taro Chips 311 Farro Salad with Roasted Rutabaga, Goat Cheese, Panko-Crusted Taro 312 and Hazelnuts 268 Sautéed Taro with a Sesame, Garlic, and Honey Glaze 313 Butter-Roasted Rutabagas 269 Soba Noodles in Mushroom Broth with Honey-Braised Rutabagas 270 Taro and Kabocha Squash 314 Microbrew-Braised Rutabagas 271 Vietnamese Pork and Taro Stew with Green Garlic 316 Rutabaga Hash with Onions and Crisp Bacon 273 Thai-Style Sweet Pancakes with Taro Root Lemon Cream Filling 317 Sour Cream Mashed Rutabagas with Fresh Dill 274 Domenica Marchetti’s Pot Roast with Honey- Roasted Rutabagas 275 TURMERIC 319 Thai Kao Soi Paste 321 Rustic Apple and Rutabaga Tart 276 Cambodian Kroeung Paste 322 SALSIFY AND SCORZONERA 279 Yellow Rice 323 Parboiled Salsify or Scorzonera 281 Okra Curry 324 Scorzonera Wrapped in Crisp Prosciutto 282 Indian-Spiced Cauliflower, Potatoes, and Peas 325 Scorzonera and Wild Mushroom Ragout 283 Spicy Turmeric-Scented Kohlrabi 326 Red Quinoa with Scorzonera, Carrots, and Swiss Chard 284 Chicken Skewers with Cambodian Kroeung Paste 327 Scorzonera Fettuccine in Mushroom Cream Sauce 285 Chiang Mai Curry Noodles 328 Salsify Oyster Stew 286 Crisp-Fried Tofu and Vegetables in Kao Soi Coconut Broth 330 Salsify Provençal 287 Turmeric-Braised Halibut Steaks with Garlic 331 Roasted Salsify with Thyme and Bacon Bread Crumbs 288 Pan-Roasted Pork Tenderloin with Salsify, Carrots, Chickpeas, and Cranberries 289 TURNIP 333 Roasted Turnip Ghanoush 335 SWEET POTATO 293 Turnip and Carrot Kraut with Caraway 336 Aracely’s Sweet Potato Waffles 295 Creamy Turnip Soup with Greens 337 Sweet Potato Biscuits 296 White Balsamic–Glazed Turnips 338 Moroccan Sweet Potato Salad 297 Roasted Turnips with Thyme 338 Susie Middleton’s Sweet Potato “Mini Fries” with Turnips and Leeks in Miso Butter 339 Limy Dipping Sauce and Spiced Salt 298 Kashmiri-Style Turnips with Greens 341 Honey and Chipotle Roasted Sweet Potato Spears 299 Turnip Greens Gumbo Z’Herbes 342 Grilled Sweet Potatoes with Maple and Adobo Glaze 300 Pancetta-Wrapped Baby Turnips 343 Garnet Sweet Potato Casserole with Pecan Streusel 301 Herb-Roasted Chicken with Turnips and Chanterelles 344 Jewel Sweet Potato Ravioli with Farfalle Pasta with Turnips and Their Greens 346 Sage Brown Butter Sauce 302 Shanghai Braised Beef with Turnips 347 WASABI 349 OTHER ROOTS 399 Wasabi Mayonnaise 351 SELECTED BIBLIOGRAPHY 404 Fresh Wasabi Paste 352 Wasabi Avocado Dip 353 SOURCES 407 Wasabi Mashed Potatoes 354 INDEX 409 Oyster Shooters with Wasabi 354 ACKNOWLEDGMENTS 431 Tuna Tartare with Wasabi 355 Seared Scallops with Wasabi-Daikon Relish 357 Salmon Hand Rolls with Fresh Wasabi 358 Grilled Wasabi Salmon 360 Asian Turkey Burgers with Wasabi Mayonnaise 361 Wasabi-Crusted Roast Beef Tenderloin 362 WATER CHESTNUT 365 Porcupine Balls 367 Asian Shrimp Dip 368 Shrimp Toasts 369 Thai Seafood Salad with Fresh Water Chestnuts 370 Ginger Chicken Soup with Fresh Water Chestnuts and Napa Cabbage 372 Pork Soong in Lettuce Cups 373 Scallop and Water Chestnut Stir-Fry 374 Stir-Fried Water Chestnuts, Sugar Snap Peas, and Shiitakes 375 YAM 377 Yamaimo Green Onion Pancakes 380 Yam and Sweet Potato Sesame Patties 382 Frituras de Ñame (Fried Yam Cakes from the Dominican Republic) 383 “Snow” Hot Pot with Mountain Yam 384 Gujarati-Style Stew with Purple Yams 385 YUCA 387 Yuca Chips 389 Yuca Fries with Creamy Cilantro-Lime Dipping Sauce 390 Mashed Yuca 392 Yuca with Tangerine-Serrano Mojo 393 Brazilian Vaca Atolada (Cow Stuck in the Mud) 394 Colombian Chicken Sancocho 396 Coconut Custard Cake with Yuca 397 FOREWORD GOOD ROOTS ALL THE WAY DOWN by Deborah Madison Diane Morgan has written a masterful book about root nourishment or, in this case, its character. It was a peculiar vegetables, and I’m honored to have been asked to write thing to say, but somehow I knew exactly what she meant. this foreword for Roots, her truly worthy volume. The A rootless person is lacking in substance, is not firmly challenge of doing so got me to thinking about roots, not attached or committed, be it to a place, a person, or an just the ones we cook, which are so thoroughly covered idea. Those who are rootless might skittle across the sur- in this book, but roots in a more human, less vegetable face of their lives like a tumbleweed whose shallow roots realm and the vital role they play in both our culinary have lost their grip on the earth come winter. Once you and our psychological worlds. Curiously, they overlap in start to think about the importance of roots, you see them some ways. mentioned in all kinds of places, including advertisements. It’s difficult to imagine the human world without the “We know our roots,” brags the founder of Bob’s Red idea of roots. What are our roots? To whom and to where Mill, speaking of grains and where they come from. do we return for our most rooted essence? Do our roots Indeed, a special regard is given to the roots of plants run deep in a culture, history, or spot on this earth, or are that is not always given to stems and leaves. Plants are we mere transplants, people who embrace a new place of extolled for their root systems, and the deeper, larger, more residence and its culture but who aren’t from that locale? complex they are, the more likely they are to impress. Take The sense of the transplant is keenly felt in the warm the tall prairie grasses of the Great Plains. Wes Jackson, regions that attract those from the cold climate. New founder of The Land Institute, often brings the root sys- Mexico has its strong native cultures that you might feel tem of a single plant with him when he gives his talks on you’ve disrupted by adding your presence. You’re not the perennial crops he is developing in Kansas. The roots recognized as being from Vermont if your family hasn’t of this grass go over his considerably high shoulder, cas- lived there for many generations. Those who have deep cade down his back, and trail along the floor, the whole roots in a place are respected and proud of them, whether thing resembling an intricately woven mantle. It’s easy to they can trace their people back to the Mayflower or see how roots such as these would knit the soil of the prairie can claim to be a seventh-generation Californian, New into a rich and stable home. The prairies didn’t blow away Mexican, New Yorker—it matters not the place, only until those long grass roots were destroyed to make room the time spent there, preferably measured in generations. for the more shallow-rooted wheat. We humans have an abiding interest in family trees, and The roots of other plants are small and delicate. They trees, of course, have roots as well as trunks and branches. spread out and hover near the surface where their chances Sometimes in life we decide to go back to our roots as a of capturing nourishment are best. Pine trees in the way of reestablishing ourselves in attitude or approach to Adirondacks may grow tall, but their shallow roots leave the world. When my Southern husband tasted pork after them vulnerable to high winds and storms. When you being a vegetarian for twelve years, he definitely went see them fallen, you can scarcely believe those roots were back to his roots. Culinarily speaking, he was home. able to support such a tall tree for as long as they did. In He wasn’t a Southerner for nothing. contrast, the roots of other plants, notably those in dry A literary woman I once worked for had an odd but places, go deep indeed, plunging 50 feet/15 meters into clearly scathing phrase that she used to describe an the earth. These are strong, well-rooted beings that intend acquaintance of hers. She would say, “She is very nice, to stay put for a while. It’s hard work to dig up the deep- but she has no roots all the way down.” All the way down. rooted junipers and salt cedars that dot the Colorado She must have had the idea of a taproot somewhere in her Plateau, but when one succeeds, water suddenly becomes mind, a single, strong root that goes down deep to find its available to other plants, which begin to flourish. 10 ROOTS
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