EYEWITNESS TRAVEL ROME 001_EW_Rome.indd 3 21/04/16 2:45 pm EYEWITNESS TRAVEL ROME 001_EW_Rome.indd 3 21/04/16 2:45 pm 002-003_EW_Rome.indd 2 21/04/16 2:49 pm Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED: Title template “UK” LAYER (SourceReport v1) Date 6th September 2012 Size 125mm x 217mm EYEWITNESS TRAVEL ROME 002-003_EW_Rome.indd 3 21/04/16 2:49 pm Contents Project Editor Fiona Wild How to Use this Art Editor Annette Jacobs Guide 6 Editors Ferdie McDonald, Mark Ronan, Anna Streiffert Designer Lisa Kosky Design Assistant Marisa Renzullo Picture Research Catherine O’Rourke Research in Rome Sam Cole DTP Editor Siri Lowe Main Contributors Olivia Ercoli, Ros Belford, Roberta Mitchell Photographers Colosseum John Heseltine, Mike Dunning, Kim Sayer Illustrators Introducing Rome Studio Illibill, Kevin Jones Associates, Martin Woodward, Robbie Polley Great Days This book was produced with the assistance of in Rome 10 Websters International Publishers. Printed and bound in China. Putting Rome on First published in the UK in 1993 by the Map 14 Dorling Kindersley Limited 80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL The History of Rome 18 16 17 18 19 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Rome at a Glance 44 Reprinted with revisions 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, Rome Through 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016 the Year 60 Copyright 1993, 2016 © Dorling Kindersley Limited, London A Penguin Random House Company All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior written permission of the copyright owner. A CIP catalogue record is available from the British Library. ISBN: 978-0-2412-0965-3 Floors are referred to throughout in accordance with European usage; ie the “first floor” is the floor above ground level. The information in this DK Eyewitness Travel Guide is checked annually. Every effort has been made to ensure that this book is as up to date as possible at the time of going to press. Some details, however, such as telephone numbers, opening hours, prices, gallery hanging arrangements and travel information, are liable to change. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for any consequences arising from the use of this book, nor for any material on third-party websites, and cannot guarantee that any website address in this book will be a suitable source of travel information. We value the views and suggestions of our readers very highly. Please write to: Publisher, DK Eyewitness Travel Guides, Dorling Kindersley, 80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL, UK, or email: [email protected]. Moses by Michelangelo in Front cover main image: The Pantheon, Rome San Pietro in Vincoli The Colosseum by night 004-005_EW_Rome.indd 4 21/04/16 3:06 pm Janiculum 216 Vatican 224 Via Veneto 252 Further Afield 258 Fresco in Villa Farnesina Nine Guided Walks 274 Rome Area Mosaic in Santa Prassede by Area Survival Guide Capitol 66 Practical Information 366 Forum 78 Getting to Rome 376 Palatine 98 Getting Around Rome 382 Piazza della Rotonda 104 Arch of Titus Street Finder 388 Travellers’ Needs General Index 412 Where to Stay 296 Acknowledgments 436 Where to Eat and Drink 304 Phrase Book 439 Shops and Markets 326 Entertainment in Rome 346 Children’s Rome 360 The Tempietto Piazza Navona 118 Outdoor café in Piazza Santa Piazza di Spagna 130 Maria in Trastevere Campo de’ Fiori 144 Quirinal 156 Esquiline 168 Lateran 178 Caracalla 190 Aventine 200 The basilica of St Peter’s in the Vatican City Trastevere 208 004-005_EW_Rome.indd 5 21/04/16 3:06 pm 6 HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE This Eyewitness Travel Guide helps you get important sights with maps, photographs the most from your stay in Rome with the and detailed illustrations. In addition, nine min imum of practical difficulty. The opening planned walks take you to parts of Rome section, Introducing Rome, locates the city you might otherwise miss. geographically, sets modern Rome in its Carefully researched tips for hotels, shops historical context and explains how Roman and markets, restaurants and cafés, sports life changes through the year. Rome at a and entertainment are found in Travellers’ Glance is an overview of the city’s attractions. Needs, and the Survival Guide has advice on The main sightseeing section, Rome Area by everything from posting a letter to catching Area, starts on page 64. It describes all the the Metro. Finding Your Way Around the Sightseeing Section Each of the 16 sightseeing areas in the city is the heart of the area. Finding your way around colour-coded for easy reference. Every chapter each chapter is made simple by the numbering opens with an introduction to the part of Rome system used throughout. The most important it covers, describing its history and character, sights are covered in detail in two or more followed by a Street-by-Street map illustrating full pages. ROME AREA BY AREA 105 Each area has PIAZZA DELLA ROTONDA TtsyuaMahtec hnpooetaeiaoinn rv hpPsdttii.eetaa sTyarcntl h rtoitttu trehthroiphy rberho teiooueio usnhfnd,t g E,eboa ehoualru coinriricnotolue t naop t1 for ofeo6te fhmRar9 at ano4P hiatc m,oea r tipoar siegcm neun hrf dneeooIin tda.rwp en tP noic oatbtetl hlcihuuaateeiarizrclen lsdzIyat, to is la hn2 X eldag,ieI0aIiss n 0n a i 0 sn pgfhmRttihhnoeoaaeiraamvsnl denliaiyaarvqc mnnfpeiuoasmleeacly sonrud etrtptsnreies o lastrftel ostnrol a i lrdaciifu nvftnt irmhe cdota eehhna ft s ecnetRh.s iryonTet eay hm an,sn’ ristbeserd os oau i cowsrcwtkb caaii tniyfeslahés t xbltors cbhel u ithtaefehihealn tdae.esnktiv gna miemnnegnga.dsa ii N nk nafegoi rle lst , cthoulomubr- ctaobdse.d Sights at a Glance 1 AFeoarcre hea a amsryea arpe a f erere nnucme, btheree C139qertipH27H468uoafCa0wsdS4e,sn ohiid5ess d, luTV SGSPSLSSPPPPPPPPPOOCattu1F00e aaooaaaaailaaaaaaaiirRsMMo2oe S sbbaaemyimmco nnnnnlllllllnoousrrlM aaaaaaaz’taee oauhdùpii dtttt tneamzrSzzzzzzznpLccllrghaa’’n dm etaiitearIEitzzzzzzzcptoss rg al sraestdalSBooooooo MeueMMusukkepldir,neon aansne d e t Msuse1OaodDABBdCooci naaaa t rto noaoG1 siiSAaaorefnrrffeizFa ilotlb plu nt zfmii0aiclioaMedHS phluraae idnodrot p –egeenhtnCair srrditaona asi t o1ir1rienahltTdninisaooadedoivo ins1’1n nlPee Isr igtesilapgra C4 ulataikmsL Limiecstnea–nnr aesmouhstMgaaanc1 iam dpe y c ip id5pMzoa toi PlspnioPhre osl ai iaa2orniiasnila0 oj etM 0zh r2z e va0oaa0rnzis i A I aV DoELLA VSCItRnAOF AD VC. 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VIA DEI CERCHI 8TTRehempe . utpibnle lTyi ceo ramofn Pup otnelrdemtsu T pneolumfe stsp,h. aleere Fo tofh Hreue mbrce uBsltoe psa rraeinsuedmr vites dn eoifg Rhobmoue’rs, the TBTinhihzfelezu a seFctnoycclnheeet sarohin fwo aBwa edssre n btiih unTeiirl. tipt hooenwriee b rinfyu C1l 7ar1l5o. VIA DELLA GRECA 1TfGihnoiet s.h mmic ae Sbrdabainleledtv aamac lM cochshaaiurniicroac .f hilno ho Caro sa sanm d ead in A suggested route takes 2 Street-by-Street map in some of the most This gives a bird’s-eye view of interesting Stars indicate interesting and attractive and important parts of each sightseeing the sights that streets in the area. area. The numbering of the sights ties no visitor in with the area map and the fuller should miss. description of the entries on the pages that follow. 006-007_EW_Rome.indd 6 21/04/16 3:05 pm HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE 7 Rome Area Map Rome Area by Area Tmthhaeep 1c 6(os lemoeua irinnesd sid iagerhe ftrasosen sethi ncoogwv aner reo)a nasr teoh fi s McahFRcdaPiiorneoaitt eortSyyvdtaueso ep; w tsirmCn ta ’tosshaadog fltaasma n lortm ns ieaha pndsis aentf oet s1or tdre s th6diroi c gPma eeiwattni h’ s racyonFec tezordis iaeozcne uesdahmrtnr ri resas nNteifhse pno R acsolotdrfovhre w fieitom obrtRor.nsn peso Ie jfag dsouom; y;r fnt sfiaaooh ant tnnt urneh ah tdd t ehaCCefh eR rti a1aesmehwep t8 behhno aito toihoaVnpsofoi-lat sliactbo,kcts h eiPre isaclseinihilcnameao t ocncz cuwwe.erz e rttn.a iyno ptEvt ht dGaraisrasieleecrnailalthe lz oa,tan zSyrohf die ott;fe a hPuTt oshoei :aml eudtz hraz eay PiaPzazgae sd 1i 3S0p–a4g3na PagQeusi r1i5n6a–l67 PVaigae Vse 2n5e2t–o7 PagCeasp 6it6o–l77 PaEgseqsu 1i6li8n–e77 Rome – each covered in a full chapter in Rome Area by Area PSipazazgan dai Via Veneto (pp64–257). They are highlighted Vatican on other maps throughout the PagVeast 2ic2a4n–51 NPaiavzoznaa PiRaozztoan ddealla Quirinal PagFeosr u78m–97 b59o)o, fko. rI ne xRaommpel ae,t tah Geyla hnecelp ( plopc4a4t–e JaniculumTiberCamFipoori de’ CapitolForum Esquiline the top sights. They are also used PPiaagzzeas 1N1a8v–o2n9a Trastevere Palatine Lateran to help you find the position of CaPamgpeos 1d4e4’ –F5io5ri Aventine PagPeasla 9t8in–e103 the nine guided walks (p275). Caracalla PaJganesic 2u1l6u–m21 PaTgraesst 2e0v8e–re15 PPaiRgaoezszt oa1n 0dd4e–all1a7 PagAevse 2n0t0in–e207 00 mkiliolemsetres 0.5 1 PaCgaersa 1c9a0ll–a99 PagLeast e1r7a8n–89 Numbers refer to each sight’s position on the Practical information provides everything you need to area map and its place in know to visit each sight. Map references pinpoint the the chapter. sight’s location on the Street Finder map (see pp388–411). 212 ROME AREA BY AREA TRASTEVERE 213 F12MNRcwrbapSmmghi pca1VNRFsMbSmsnV tRahAiA bfVinnnaeahh1iooilrbpieipoaaraeerriefpaaotsealmaoe otpaaoee AMSotileolrotFppy mdB2siarveodima paoendts rrnnhohgaaPC lnjo ln5pk’4r ernhhgia ao s er tghaio rlemttntb db m4ayFener.lunael2 orSw cR oo aacu rhoovanaerhp@sa wa ertfs ueu gaE–d moeectaceeutiieiae ph sseiin. riar snnn5(h srsnsiit5hsh na w(sop nn Taolls cdsllr ehayaiepah st, r’eb t taateas) a &si ewehu2cadnheehsi tna w t fa,ocyln neon, ros barfbte mt 3lthtear mrehistvD 1eia. r q hya seg“ i i inctk,rcipnihmayoe ,eif. tepttb1Hs efeeasu sone2tsuioerdenehuionaoaa n nef eemhr .2anT talr8BrBktmeo aP e nidrP ta’nlet oedThesdc rS rar4le0likS5 htnoaeaeH roa tresnieoa( t teshdd i( ed.in6t e. eaefhhlceieeooa osssslf ivnsda rgopn@lilai tla) larridcaLe .cht eeivonsret1 fnwef ,dsfn s ’zs il ae n pataS seeeffi woaeT n2tevsv4dttS ropapiohazty en ontden dv chc rr 0 gyrp oeSe2Da7ohlR tno riruaieitd td euv.oo oden P sith3 ne ipnRino c1boao isasMaomxrurtaChe irsP loa,ef gsaeo 2n a lat – toblte er tmmln2 wb)narhfoathtioetfsaaint epu, 2 pr oaltg8a.ek 8oiao hhrcan al virppiv v nttars0taeiPeenansrml 0h4rsxi Seuiufnxbntei areeteod ppoom a–ss cn.,pi p4”ea e)aIo a nxS a trp delo rr V,jn goep at2 tl td,a no fueeeitDearnit widuh nnu nl1 c ieLoepou uhcld ep-n ot s5d’ .e( gi)as dd oh fneltrind tIse.etna & sV s iheeo h oselg s r.. le e ea s Mi5M0S4P@∑BtCftccrpct psd3PBTgleccdmsrubGM1oaehhhehnuip66oiou0i5eohunarasraeaaalusluld -Tneeeiaea.oenezirnsnaz6sni riildnc5t s rTeiemslud mHh zSnrm yzaSttea1edtwvt(i8tTotcptdet b aoatillf i ti,uoae.ocdrdead1ms– ns uielhl’ r lBoa s2seaaiOlmanSi rdsei h rb.narf1nee0 vsddan6go a u3teas llaosyeeIs epa2tl6eu titresdnu5gnin1,ntasa if tr.o b eo lh r.s-nB aeo t R2ls a63i dcre di t6 qa aI5 Stssoo,Sdollcoi sean 81to’3d0t argthhdu d nmcE w8 nh3ssSeccnh 0u fn.apm tu 8rieg ’0ta uw1eci1 i 0crdoOoelo. a:o noetsitmh nE d4ae itd aoo0atbv ap67d6,hhnis qnapcil frwghe9dalmmwa 3 tltpS2,i ptaseMeigde evdaoeiuemvtihn4 ,h 30te m a l rfhlaanriae2 ( enseap y –teo et8 31aRTs ranesop–iR 3cmih aetuya )s7 n ..r.rlnt eosrfnma1.o 1d aop.teataa tCeil@ilMp ee mt S7rettct0M’t2 iafinogusml iEiatvrh,aamta hir utntfvat. heidaceopoa3udlnsgpoaeaibhaur mt aos ittmpa h ts0 t vspjon2 vçtpird riniatyeie eoaoatltct pdcnne snee3–uos4afrs7 afe l au e r hio4 mrr te,,.8isetr gin0 d sa ra v mreboolhaCm 2a:Teoya pclya uDhao–en:siwo Te8n h1 .mlda rSnhfmnt Traw erle5etf4 ,5di0 u.aae tdlee e oahig tG lay l1m.m tw& n r.a.Ttel dyt 0.rOe i u e) eau th1 sd r.61aaneldpxreri 7 ie-1a sn i f –e -o5 et lyn h8 f i5S8MSA6PTo(C8csc iRdtMiRo mpw0WMnnepheneui.6pehhtooffeo hauaoaerOt o hasr-Tneentzs1uiooscmme 5ee rni respn ehS.zSsv p-nhi 8lto8Trrntna–t mos&apcytucuacceeeees 1ot St pr o2seaeba doSrothhh snia0r 1.,alep1Bia meiss noocye iSa fntt.uo-2Ra4nnf0 ne7 nues ; rne otTnb iaot–h fatr0fi.8ruc ulc3 nslphdrr hmcahmn 1eluwto7o n.o tiesi03lirenht5nCe hfuni6t a aiaecydbuaa0s ssc xCo.lopS . odtedde mcia acuncwe syu@nabhdcrrrs 1ma olii4ehnbs mi dnMcaa T–hnnyv asviPa9d4 hlretsuCi– nii t oasautgg shictcTttt. irHusi ee1etso urahyaah Mipgsrr oie tsbcap,rrotraoscccilevl’s oe-s)oleserrey 2rha muvncnuhe.cagpeio forg ,3bemnccpmoe’ro sA,tseindsr r,rae ,ol .ioi4 wtn o neC letsh4nv27 n 5 cod. a au(o. msfnap1. s.18 ioaati1oo iCwttect 5e8nu0sev 5sinywnh lr1hsl8 –t ,nut sa7–arlr .tr 07 h7-i iy.ht7s1tbmluo Tn ol)8.ltho e 3 .eio1ii3ce 0dnnt0ve nl 0t t.u piet hivpso hsol–md i-meif nt e s fMT8d8PTSshawfchcRvCptIAf CLCatpdowbgtfpRdCf7VTNvicotb1etw,roolrlhhrhhae ia.eehitdealitoii2ooxwsleorioeur aaafa uwiasouortleraOosa ufleuiT eieelseetlsen cz6suCjovyl tmr inrmmti umin idat scyd0rst ois0tantnhlzeaSncha lpiCmch at7ci atedr .rto 91 .oe–tteseRms6an6ei l)Jiaitibuc. caeee vbd &aaoe sr) eln n eoS t ids -t3cii-l iudlooatl opIcactldHnaohlal nsn5npa r 0nneihnaa ei lneah.dtgaiia uatanaVdor smyfit tti8flnr6ht tm hg hl nhR o(e tdn n toei9e nik VipAsl swiS. 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T3.1 0–41 3 DAlel tthaiel eimd pinofrotarmnta stigiohnts in Rome are RaNsMc.crnaieoucp aaChslhpltaehtoatiascuirerg soprlo eiidni fneCs e t cehbhtsehiiyeatg eh b pBns eydeeeer volr Sdsnemei ditnbnhee aihi sssaoe thncfai aohdtvnhwae Loepn oG eldaryloele, t bndwal ozr Pha edihsoitcio temhous ..bs heoa .s firpgsSrtlGtoa MtFasvuwrisaieind lorwilncneae sciuidv lIntRlhnimaa tdoG etia1no meldwr5aew t d0eidtsasso’9essst-. described individually. They are listed in order following the numbering on the aPrreaac tmicaalp i nafto trhmea sttioarnt ionfc tlhued eses cat imona.p TPBt.hhiinbei stlD iuc cieesrai liclolp,i cnnphhgeaiic i oono ,S ftfs eiatobdh msy eeiln erai pe1Cs5sl ae0os.8fs –ficr1ea0sl catoone dds e obctyoh reartse rntehufeem rbebaneccrkse .fl, Toahppe.e kneinyg t oh tohuer ss yamndb toelsle ips hoonn e thet h1e7wf mtCiKaSTghhnshkou c iieeasgrseeadel inef idllCcotoit neufhooo ddrganfry p e tt.hoaete l hi n En trance NNEtrhttohhhmiedoeeaerpet sorst tohirp oirelnueaiove’g.dss te I w ncdwitGnre aitho rmhhtsrenh iecfeor ei uieesMn s t.td h r Wtitde dihlsoeohde a cwelw esianmnh leA ,eptra ghessegu eeotwipnh spf epiaoarlrteso ueilt.oesg cbegnhhdue toulr nytifreod ctpd hhbau e wrewto t paidsaneseesg o hmtb phaauolnaueintl n te ls atohn e tnwedodgr ra etbm ola nyi fnetu tthe nth1 ertt0e i trns9 eheug9eemp hbgfepaiyrrmleo nlP rwo aooftofirp un.tr ehR rgha ae Pilhsv aeR eesvornceemhs n oaatnlsn I I , KEY pdRAid12345seoia nebliv d ndPTCTTTyerto hhhhyeriAinepnbeeeean og (1oaBTTna1l 5o ooklrli4Ctbet0.nmma8ahga5o3rrl,nabb we p)hip os iioooCns e.eb uff abcla yGArseys reAs ai toposccnh vafutcde hanTpi rnehM(ieio1l nesa1a 5 iS 3Ao Sd4dftsfoa0oh es nr–nu-lzlcs1nmaaoe6a , nvp0w itt9niuho)o.rony. DCPpflNaurlieahatennaistalnteicrluvpa ttoieirtn etieeRdcy lss1oc at4aihvhnb9niee oo0tdr h v.e tee h teh e 105012ct(h1whh10oeah39n piD–9oce2 uhoPl7r maoi unosCvicncfthe hiltdauruha edtrfleocar eI hImmGM db re iabueNlnydsgie ll odaoornorsfrg yn) e iaInXd 1 200(c.P1i4n5t4u–ri1c5ch13iP(or)o epig1en 4Pe7a(do2s 1nc–0he89a o9Sl1 f–Ii Ix3t 1th51uce1h0s 8 fuIiV)rrs cbth uReReisl1odn i4Pvsna p8eii cnsRr5ahsteoi–auun mCn9rrticch eceDhedca)e hp blieloayl1a l4ta7r3 b Muial1tin5 01dC05ehs1igi3g1Cbdi –n5euhC1sl3iah l 6Ptp0aa ibn–epoRd3ylame a4 plSelb htexCaobaehrecapilgusi ettii ecaesn o 4 Rome’s major sights Numbered circles A timeline charts Historic buildings are point out major the key events in dissected to reveal features of the the history of their interiors; sight listed in key. the building. museums and galleries have colour-coded floorplans to help you find the most important exhibits. 006-007_EW_Rome.indd 7 21/04/16 3:05 pm 008-009_EW_Rome.indd 8 21/04/16 2:49 pm Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED: Section openers template “UK” LAYER (SourceReport v1) Date 6th September 2012 Size 125mm x 217mm