Roman Dress and the Fabrics of Roman Culture PDF
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ROMAN DRESS AND THE FABRICS OF ROMAN CULTURE PHOENIX Journal of the Classical Association of Canada Revue de la Société canadienne des études classiques Supplementary Volume xlvi Tome supplémentaire xlvi Studies in Greek and Roman Social History i EDITED BY JONATHAN EDMONDSON AND ALISON KEITH Roman Dress and the Fabrics of Roman Culture UNIVERSITY OF TORONTO PRESS Toronto Buffalo London © University of Toronto Press Incorporated 2008 Toronto Buffalo London www.utppublishing.com Printed in Canada ISBN 978-0-8020-9319-6 Printed on acid-free paper Library and Archives Canada Cataloguing in Publication Roman dress and the fabrics of Roman culture / edited by Jonathan Edmondson and Alison Keith. (Phoenix. Supplementary volume = Tome supplémentaire ; XLVI) (Studies in Greek and Roman social history ; I) Includes bibliographical references and indexes. ISBN 978-0-8020-9319-6 1. Clothing and dress – Social aspects – Rome. 2. Clothing and dress – Rome. I. Edmondson, J.C. II. Keith, Alison Mary III. Series: Phoenix. Supplementary volume (Toronto, Ont.) ; XLVI IV. Series: Phoenix. Supplementary volume (Toronto, Ont.). Studies in Greek and Roman social history ; I GT555.R65 2008 391′.00937 C2007-906269-5 University of Toronto Press acknowledges the financial assistance to its publishing program of the Canada Council for the Arts and the Ontario Arts Council. University of Toronto Press acknowledges the financial support for its publishing activities of the Government of Canada through the Book Publishing Industry Development Program (BPIDP). CONTENTS Preface vii Contributors ix List of Figures xi Abbreviations xvii Introduction: From Costume History to Dress Studies 1 jonathan edmondson and alison keith PART I INVESTMENTS IN MASCULINITY 1 Public Dress and Social Control in Late Republican and Early Imperial Rome 21 jonathan edmondson 2 Togam virilem sumere: Coming of Age in the Roman World 47 fanny dolansky 3 The Double Identity of Roman Portrait Statues: Costumes and Their Symbolism at Rome 71 michael koortbojian 4 The ‘Dark Side’ of the Toga 94 michele george 5 (Un)Dressed to Kill: Viewing the Retiarius 113 michael carter vi Contents PART II FASHIONING THE FEMALE 6 The Appearance of the Young Roman Girl 139 kelly olson 7 Covering the Head at Rome: Ritual and Gender 158 elaine fantham 8 Designing Women: The Representation of Women’s Toiletries on Funerary Monuments in Roman Italy 172 leslie shumka 9 Sartorial Elegance and Poetic Finesse in the Sulpician Corpus 192 alison keith PART III THE CULTURAL POETICS OF DRESS 10 The Woven Garment as Literary Metaphor: The Peplos in Ciris 9–41 205 riemer faber 11 Spinning the Trabea: Consular Robes and Propaganda in the Panegyrics of Claudian 217 michael dewar 12 Appearing for the Defence: Apuleius on Display 238 keith bradley 13 Tertullian’s De Pallio and Roman Dress in North Africa 257 t. corey brennan 14 Prudery and Chic in Late Antique Clothing 271 guy p.r. métraux References 295 Index Locorum 331 General Index 353 PREFACE Since the publication of the path-breaking collection of papers on Roman dress by Sebesta and Bonfante in 1994, there has been a dramatic increase in social historical and in cultural studies of dress and adornment in the ancient Mediterranean world. This interest has manifested itself in a number of volumes on clothing in classical Greece (Llewelyn-Jones 2002 and 2003) or more wide-ranging work covering a wide chronological range (Cleland, Harlow, and Llewellyn-Jones 2005). The time is therefore ripe for a more focused and coherent treatment of ancient Roman dress. This is timely because recent scholarship in classical studies has shown the benefits of an approach based in sociocultural history and gender studies. We undertook a review of the general literature on dress studies in crosscultural perspective in order to identify major themes that would benefit from more detailed treatment in the Roman context. To this end, we gathered a group of emi- nent scholars to explore the theme and exchange ideas at a seminar in Tor- onto. The editors circulated to the contributors a draft introduction to the volume and asked them to revise their papers on the basis of that document and discussions at the seminar. We consider that our volume will be of interest primarily to Roman cul- tural historians but also to students of Roman literature and art history. We believe that the volume will also prove valuable and attractive to social, cul- tural, and gender historians of other periods. Accordingly, we have asked the contributors to provide translations of all quotations from Greek and Latin authors and to contextualize their evidence as clearly as possible. We would like to express our gratitude to all our contributors, who responded to our invitation with enthusiasm, participated in the discussions with gusto and collegiality, and both composed their original papers and revised their chapters for the volume with alacrity and acumen. We are par- viii Preface ticularly grateful to our institutions, the University of Toronto and York University, for their generosity and commitment to the project. At York University, we are most grateful to the Office of the Vice-President (Aca- demic), the Faculty of Arts, the Department of History, the Division of Humanities, and the Programme in Classical Studies. At the University of Toronto, we are indebted to the Department of Classics, Victoria College, the Institute of Women’s Studies and Gender Studies, and New College. Phoe- nix, Journal of the Classical Association of Canada, also provided support for the original seminar and has since shown interest in including the resulting volume in its two recently launched subseries in Gender Studies and Greek and Roman Social History. We would like to thank Phoenix’s Mary White Fund, Victoria College at the University of Toronto, the Dean of the Faculty of Arts, the Faculty of Arts, and the small SSHRC/CRSH grant fund at York University for their generous financial assistance towards the costs of the illustrations. We are also grateful to the University of Toronto Press and to the senior humanities editor, Suzanne Rancourt, for their enthusiastic support of this volume, and to Beth McAuley and Richard Ratzlaff for their skill and efficiency in seeing it through to publication. Jonathan Edmondson Alison Keith Toronto, February 2007 CONTRIBUTORS keith bradley (frsc) is Eli J. Shaheen Professor of Classics and Concurrent Professor of History at the University of Notre Dame. t. corey brennan is Associate Professor and Chair of Classics at Rutgers University. michael carter is Associate Professor and Chair of Classical Studies at Brock University. michael dewar is Professor of Classics at the University of Toronto. fanny dolansky is Assistant Professor of Classics at Brock University. jonathan edmondson is Professor of Roman History and Classical Studies at York University, Toronto. riemer faber is Associate Professor and Chair of Classical Studies at the University of Waterloo. elaine fantham is Professor Emerita of Classics at Princeton University and Adjunct Professor at the University of Toronto. michele george is Associate Professor and Chair of Classics at McMaster University. alison keith is Professor and Chair of Classics at the University of Toronto. x Contributors michael koortbojian is Nancy H. and Robert E. Hall Professor in the Humanities at Johns Hopkins University. guy p.r. métraux is Professor of Greek and Roman Art at York University, Toronto. kelly olson is Associate Professor of Classical Studies at the University of Western Ontario. leslie shumka is Assistant Professor of Classical Studies at Mt Allison Uni- versity.
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