Roman and Late Antique Wine Production in the Eastern Mediterranean: A Comparative Archaeological Study at Antiochia ad Cragum (Turkey) and Delos (Greece)

222 Pages·2020·22.268 MB·English

by  Emlyn K. Dodd

Roman and Late Antique Wine Production
in the Eastern Mediterranean
Roman and Late Antique Wine Production in the Eastern Mediterranean is devoted to the viticulture of two Dodd
settlements, Antiochia ad Cragum and Delos, using results stemming from surface survey and excavation
to assess their potential integration within the now well-known agricultural boom of the 5th-7th centuries
AD. Interdisciplinary and ethnographic data supplements the main archaeological catalogue and provides A comparative archaeological study at
a rounded understanding of production and use. The publication of an excavated vinicultural vat in Rough
Cilicia for the first time, along with the first complete discussion of the viticultural industry on Delos in Late R Antiochia ad Cragum (Turkey) and Delos (Greece)
Antiquity, underscores the significance of this book. The combined catalogue, analysis and discussion o
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reinforce the noteworthy position viticulture held in Late Antiquity as an agricultural endeavour, socio-
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cultural and economic factor engrained within eastern Mediterranean settlements. n
a
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d Emlyn K. Dodd
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Emlyn Dodd is an Honorary Postdoctoral Associate at Macquarie University and Greece Fellow at the a
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Australian Archaeological Institute at Athens. He was recently the Macquarie-Gale British School at e
Rome Scholar. His research focuses on the viticulture of antiquity, primarily in Roman settlements of A
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the eastern and central Mediterranean, and extends to cover agriculture and trade more broadly along t
i
with the mechanisms through which they occurred. He currently coordinates a project through the q
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Australian Archaeological Institute at Athens that investigates the production of wine, among other e
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commodities, across the Aegean islands and the presence of knowledge networks therein, with a focus
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on the identification and distribution of agricultural architecture and technology in the Roman and Late n
e
Antique eras. He is also an active collaborator with the Antiochia ad Cragum Archaeological Research P
Project, based out of Gazipasa (Turkey), and has worked at Delos, the Athenian Agora and Acropolis, r
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Pompeii and in Sicily. d
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Archaeopress Roman Archaeology 63
Archaeopress Archaeology www.archaeopress.com
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Roman and Late Antique Wine
Production in the Eastern
Mediterranean
A comparative archaeological study
at Antiochia ad Cragum (Turkey)
and Delos (Greece)
Archaeopress Roman Archaeology 63
Archaeopress Publishing Ltd
Summertown Pavilion
18-24 Middle Way
Summertown
Oxford OX2 7LG
www.archaeopress.com
ISBN 978-1-78969-402-4
ISBN 978-1-78969-403-1 (e-Pdf)
© Emlyn K. Dodd and Archaeopress 2020
Cover: Reconstructed lever press, Villa dei Misteri, Pompeii (E. Dodd 2015).
All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced, or transmitted, in any form or by any means,
electronic, mechanical, photocopying or otherwise, without the prior written permission of the copyright owners.
Printed in England by Severn, Gloucester
This book is available direct from Archaeopress or from our website www.archaeopress.com
For my Grandfather,
whose scholarly prowess never failed to inspire

Contents
Acknowledgements ....................................................................................................................................................................v
Abbreviations .............................................................................................................................................................................vi
Miscellaneous ......................................................................................................................................................................vi
Journals .................................................................................................................................................................................vi
Ancient Authors and Texts .............................................................................................................................................vii
Definition of Terminology ....................................................................................................................................................viii
Part 1 Prolegomenon
1
Chapter 1: Wine Production in Antiquity ............................................................................................................................3
1.1 General Introduction ....................................................................................................................................................3
Scope and Aims ..................................................................................................................................................................4
Presentation of Material ..................................................................................................................................................5
1.2 An Ethnographic Approach .........................................................................................................................................6
1.3 A Summary of the History of Research ....................................................................................................................7
The Beginnings of Viticultural Research .......................................................................................................................8
Early Developments in Italy and France .......................................................................................................................8
An Expanding World of Viticultural Research: The Late 20th Century ...................................................................10
Expansion of the Working Typology and a Levantine Emphasis ...............................................................................12
A 21st Century Focus on the Birthplace of Wine: Anatolia ........................................................................................12
Pioneering Scientific Approaches: Biomolecular Archaeology ..................................................................................15
The Future of Ancient Viticultural Research ..............................................................................................................16
1.4 A Summary of the Ancient Literature ....................................................................................................................17
Marcus Porcius Cato (234-149 BC): De Agri Cultura ...................................................................................................17
Marcus Terentius Varro (116-27 BC): Res Rusticae ....................................................................................................17
Lucius Junius Moderatus Columella (unknown, c. 1st century AD): De Re Rustica ...............................................18
Gaius Plinius Secundus (AD 23-79): Naturalis Historia .............................................................................................19
Palladius Rutilius Taurus Aemilianus (unknown, late 4th century AD): Opus Agriculturae ...............................19
Geoponika (unknown, 10th century AD) ......................................................................................................................20
Smaller References in Texts Throughout Antiquity: ..................................................................................................21
Part 2 Antiochia ad Cragum
23
Chapter 2: Introduction and Dataset ..................................................................................................................................25
2.1 Introduction and Regional Context ........................................................................................................................25
2.2 Viticulture at Antiochia ad Cragum .......................................................................................................................27
Methodology .....................................................................................................................................................................31
2.3 Dataset ............................................................................................................................................................................33
The Geographical and Topographical Setting .............................................................................................................33
Architectural Characteristics of the Press and their Purposes ................................................................................36
Chapter 3: Analyses and Discussion ....................................................................................................................................47
3.1 Wine or Oil Production? .............................................................................................................................................47
3.2 Dating the Press and Production .............................................................................................................................49
Introduction .....................................................................................................................................................................49
Relationship to the Temple ............................................................................................................................................51
Structural Features .........................................................................................................................................................51
Reuse of Monumental Architecture ..............................................................................................................................51
Ceramic Evidence ............................................................................................................................................................52
Conclusions.......................................................................................................................................................................53
3.3 Production at the Antiochia ad Cragum Press ....................................................................................................54
3.4 Fermentation Processes .............................................................................................................................................56
Theory One: Staged Fermentation in Multiple Storage Vessels ................................................................................56
Theory Two: Single Vessel Fermentation .....................................................................................................................58
3.5 Types of Wine Produced – Passum? ........................................................................................................................59
3.6 Quantified Production ................................................................................................................................................64
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Quantification using Grapes ..........................................................................................................................................65
Quantification using Raisins for Passum Production ................................................................................................65
Quantification of Land Use ............................................................................................................................................66
3.7 Religion and Wine at Antiochia ad Cragum ..........................................................................................................67
3.8 Conclusions ....................................................................................................................................................................70
Part 3 Delos
73
Chapter 4: Introduction and Dataset ...................................................................................................................................75
4.1 Introduction and Historical Context ......................................................................................................................75
Methodology .....................................................................................................................................................................77
4.2 Viticulture on Delos ....................................................................................................................................................78
4.3 The Agora of the Italians Press (I.1) .......................................................................................................................82
Geographical and Topographical Setting ....................................................................................................................82
Architectural Characteristics of the Press and their Purposes ................................................................................82
4.4 The Rue 5 ‘Large’ Press (I.2) ......................................................................................................................................87
Geographical and Topographical Setting .....................................................................................................................87
Architectural Characteristics of the Press and their Purposes ................................................................................87
4.5 The House of Cleopatra Press (I.3) ..........................................................................................................................91
Geographical and Topographical Setting .....................................................................................................................91
Architectural Characteristics of the Press and their Purposes ................................................................................92
4.6 Two Smaller Presses (I.4 and I.5) .............................................................................................................................94
The Agora of the Competaliasts Press (I.4) ..................................................................................................................94
The Rue 5 ‘Small’ Press (I.5) ...........................................................................................................................................98
4.7 The Theatre Press (I.6) .............................................................................................................................................100
Geographical and Topographical Setting ...................................................................................................................100
Architectural Characteristics of the Press and their Purposes ..............................................................................100
Discussion and Conclusions .........................................................................................................................................103
Chapter 5: Analysis and Discussion ...................................................................................................................................104
5.1 Wine or Oil Production? ...........................................................................................................................................104
The Epigraphic and Literary Evidence .......................................................................................................................104
The Archaeological Evidence .......................................................................................................................................105
5.2 Dating the Delian Installations ..............................................................................................................................108
Counterweights, Iconography and Epigraphy ...........................................................................................................108
Design and Architectural Features .............................................................................................................................110
Mechanical Features .....................................................................................................................................................111
Inter-installation Comparisons ...................................................................................................................................111
Conclusions.....................................................................................................................................................................112
5.3 The Viticultural Process ..........................................................................................................................................113
Cultivation and Pre-Treatment ...................................................................................................................................113
Treading and Pressing ..................................................................................................................................................114
Fermentation and Storage ............................................................................................................................................115
Trends Within Mechanical Pressing on Delos ...........................................................................................................116
5.4 Quantified Production on Delos .............................................................................................................................117
Installation Catalogue ...................................................................................................................................................117
Processing Capacity of the Delian Installations ........................................................................................................118
Crop Estimation and Suitability ..................................................................................................................................119
Local Consumption and Surplus Export .....................................................................................................................122
5.5 Viticulture Within Paleochristian Delos .............................................................................................................122
Viticulture and Paleochristian Delos ..........................................................................................................................126
Trends Within the Paleochristian Viticulture of Delos ............................................................................................130
5.6 Conclusions ..................................................................................................................................................................131
Part 4 Comparative Analyses
133
Chapter 6: A Comparative Approach .................................................................................................................................135
6.1 Introduction ................................................................................................................................................................135
Scope and Methodology of Comparison ......................................................................................................................136
ii
6.2 Discussion.....................................................................................................................................................................136
Built vs Rock-Cut Installations ....................................................................................................................................136
Mechanism .....................................................................................................................................................................137
Structural Reuse............................................................................................................................................................137
Nature of Production ....................................................................................................................................................137
The Exchange of Ideas and Interregional Connectivity ..........................................................................................139
Epilogue .....................................................................................................................................................................................140
Bibliography .............................................................................................................................................................................142
Part 5 Appendices
155
Appendix A: Annual Viticultural Process of the Geoponika .........................................................................................157
Appendix B: Treading Floor Capacities and Workforce ...............................................................................................158
Appendix C: Delos Survey Maps ..........................................................................................................................................159
Part 6 Plates
165
List of Figures
C.i: Agora of the Italians installation, I.1 ..............................................................................................................................159
C.iii: House of Cleopatra installation, I.3 ..............................................................................................................................161
C.ii: Rue 5 ‘large’ installation, I.2 ...........................................................................................................................................160
C.iv: Agora of the Competaliasts installation, I.4 .................................................................................................................162
C.vi: Theatre installation, I.6 ..................................................................................................................................................164
C.v: Rue 5 ‘small’ installation, I.5 ...........................................................................................................................................163
Figure 1: The geographical areas of Cilicia ............................................................................................................................24
Figure 2: Aerial view of Antiochia ad Cragum (facing NW) .................................................................................................28
Figure 3: Temperature fluctuation over the past 2000 years ..............................................................................................31
Figure 4: Antiochia ad Cragum site plan 2014 .......................................................................................................................32
Figure 5: Plan of NE Imperial temple and wine press ...........................................................................................................33
Figure 6: Antiochia ad Cragum wine press .............................................................................................................................34
Figure 7: Shadow cast from NE temple at 08:15, September 30 AD 400 .............................................................................36
Figure 8: Shadow cast from NE temple at 12:00, September 30, AD 400 ............................................................................37
Figure 9: Shadow cast from NE temple at 17:00, September 30, AD 400 ............................................................................37
Figure 10: Aerial view of temple and press installation in shadow (facing SW) ...............................................................38
Figure 11: Treading floor (facing NE); lower layer of opus signinum visible in the lower left-hand corner ...............40
Figure 12: Treading floor from temple podium above (facing NW) ....................................................................................40
Figure 13: Treading floor plaster detail ...................................................................................................................................42
Figure 14: Mechanical lever press recess ................................................................................................................................44
Figure 15: Pipe .............................................................................................................................................................................46
Figure 16: Collection vat (facing NW) ......................................................................................................................................46
Figure 17: Agricultural and geological features on Delos ....................................................................................................80
Figure 18: Late Antique vinicultural installations on Delos(adapted from Moretti et al. 2015: map 3) .........................83
Figure 19: Agora of the Italians installation (facing W) .......................................................................................................85
Figure 20: Rue 5 ‘large’ installation (facing S) ........................................................................................................................88
Figure 21: Brun Type 14 counterweight and mechanism ....................................................................................................91
Figure 22: House of Cleopatra installation (facing E) ............................................................................................................93
Figure 23: Brun type 57 counterweight and mechanism ......................................................................................................95
Figure 24: Inscribed Christian cross ........................................................................................................................................95
Figure 25: Reused altar, possible press counterweight - Brun type 57 ..............................................................................95
Figure 26: Agora of the Competaliasts installation (facing S) ..............................................................................................96
Figure 27: Rue 5 ‘small’ installation (facing NNW) ...............................................................................................................99
Figure 28: Theatre installation (facing E) .............................................................................................................................101
Figure 29: Evidence of terracing on Delos (regions in red) ................................................................................................121
Figure 30: Evidence from Late Antiquity on Delos (post-3rd century AD)(adapted from Moretti et al.
2015: map 3) ...............................................................................................................................................................................124
iii
List of Tables
Table 1: Solar calculations – September 30, AD 400 ..............................................................................................................35
Table 2: Dimensions and features (NE temple installation, Antiochia ad Cragum) ..........................................................36
Table 3: Features and dimensions (NE temple installation, Antiochia ad Cragum)..........................................................64
Table 4: Maximum annual vintage (from vat capacity)(NE temple installation, Antiochia ad Cragum) ......................64
Table 5: Amphorae required per year to store maximum vintage production (NE temple installation,
Antiochia ad Cragum) .................................................................................................................................................................64
Table 6: Annual quantity of grapes required to achieve max. vintage production (NE temple installation,
Antiochia ad Cragum) .................................................................................................................................................................65
Table 7: Processing capacity (NE temple installation, Antiochia ad Cragum) ...................................................................65
Table 8: Dried (50%) grapes required to fill collection vat once (NE temple installation, Antiochia ad Cragum) .......66
Table 9: Dried grapes and regular grapes required to produce max. vintage production of passum (NE
temple installation, Antiochia ad Cragum) .............................................................................................................................66
Table 10: Annual grape vine requirement to produce max. vintage production (NE temple installation,
Antiochia ad Cragum) .................................................................................................................................................................66
Table 11: Annual arable land required to cultivate estimated quantity of grape vines (NE temple
installation, Antiochia ad Cragum) ..........................................................................................................................................67
Table 12: Features and dimensions (I.1)...................................................................................................................................84
Table 13: Features and dimensions (I.2)...................................................................................................................................87
Table 14: Features and dimensions (I.3)...................................................................................................................................92
Table 15: Features and dimensions (I.4)...................................................................................................................................96
Table 16: Features and dimensions (I.5)...................................................................................................................................98
Table 17: Features and dimensions (I.6).................................................................................................................................100
Table 18: Total capacity of all collection vats (Delos) ..........................................................................................................118
Table 19: Max. annual output of known installations (Delos) ............................................................................................118
Table 20: I.2 processing capacity (Delos) ...............................................................................................................................118
Table 21: Total vine, grape and must yields (S and SE terracing, Delos) ..........................................................................120
Table 22: Population size on Delos .........................................................................................................................................122
iv